Hocking Hills, Ohio

Hocking Hills, Ohio 2011

My good friend Sam and I decided to spend a few days photographing a place in Ohio called Hocking Hills. The location is found in the south central part of the state about 30 miles south of Lancaster Ohio. Sandstone in the region has been molded into interesting cliffs and gorges by the hand of nature over countless centuries. The Hills have bragging rights to waterfalls. Over six individual waterfalls can be found among the Hills in addition to cascading streams. The secret to enjoying these aquatic exhibitionists is to visit after plenty of rains nourish them, without rain, they are hushed. The geological features that surround are enjoyable to hike.


Friday, April 20th, 2011

A predawn start got us rolling after watching the HD televised wedding of Prince William and Lady Kate.
Our route was programmed with a GPS leading us from Pittsburgh, PA to Zanesville, Ohio by I 70 west then Rt 22 to Rt 33 to Lancaster and onto Logan where accommodations were arranged at the Holiday Inn Express. Across the way is a Mexican cantina and down the road is a South West Barbecue. (The Old Dutch Restaurant is still open.)

Sam and I arrived in the area around 10 am checked in and covered different locations marked on the map. The tail end of a storm system yet lingered above. The clouds provide an important screen to the suns dazzling light. This muted light is essential when photographing waterfalls. Harsh light will reflect off the gushing water simulating a glare of hot brightness too difficult for the camera sensor to compensate for. It was a fortunate blessing since the forecast was blue skies next day.

Ash Cave location:
The trail at Ash Cave is a relatively short trail that leads back to a fascinating overhanging cave like sandstone cliff. At the edge of the forested precipice flow three slender ribbons of water falling to a pool below. The height of the drop is about 90 feet. The rock formation acts as an acoustic amplifier to the rhythmic music of the falling water. Sam and I set up our tripods and camera equipment and sought the best perspective. Our shutter speed was adjusted for long exposures. This will make the water have a mystical silky appearance in the image capture.

Few people joined us in our journeys around the park since it was a Friday. One should have the park all to their own during midweek.




Cedar Falls location:
The trail back to Cedar Falls is an enjoyable hike. A bridge crosses over the stream going along the trail. Early wildflowers are dappled among the fallen timbers of the forest floor. The resonance of rushing waters can be heard as we approach. Once we arrived at the falls, it was flowing with a charitable amount of water. Another waterfall named Hidden Falls also shares this secluded area. Cedar Falls wraps in a twisted pattern along the smooth sandstone into a pool. The water flows out of the pool down into a rapid leading to the stream. We setup our tripods and selected several angles to photograph both waterfalls. The other falls is hidden in a little alcove but has particular camera-friendly qualities about it. We climbed down to join a few other photographers and captured great images.

We decided to stop for lunch along the road returning from Cedar Falls. I have a sixth sense about these things and it elbowed me to stop at Cedar Falls Inn and Spa. This is a welcoming log cabin arrangement. The chef greeted us as we past through the open kitchen into the dinning area. The soup and sandwich selection delivered to our table was a level above most. The homemade mushroom soup was scrumptious and the sandwich exceptional. I could not pass up the opportunity to enjoy the mixed berry cobbler. It would have been a dreadful mistake if I had.

Now to work off that filling lunch we proceeded to Old Mans Cave location.

Old Mans Cave Location:
This location is the primary stop amongst the Hocking Hills. The park headquarters, refreshment stand, facilities, and large parking area are all found here. The trail leading to the cave and then onto yet another waterfall is longer than the others are. The trail also has more steps beside complex terrain. (Caution when hiking the narrow worn out sandstone steps as when wet they can be hazardous)
The trail leads along the stream with impressive cascades rushing all along to the bottom waterfall. The trail has several access points from the parking area to be selected according to the task at hand and based on difficulty.
Some of the more photogenic opportunities are the cascade found at the beginning of the trail just below the park headquarters. This cascade falls just underneath a well-placed stone bridge. Hiking further down we came to a place aptly named the Devils Washtub. The water swirls into a whirlpool of churning chaos as it finds a path to cascade between a narrow gap in the rock. Just before we found the dissenting steps, leading to the lower falls is an S shaped outline in the stream. This feature is surrounded by woodland wonders and has a unique pictorial quality not to be overlooked.

At this point one can decide to descend along the path to the lower falls or return by way of the central access near the cave. We decide to begin our decent. The late day sun was emerging from the cloud shield spoiling the lower falls. A few remaining clouds allowed narrow windows to capture the falls in halfway decent light. Some children skipped stones along the turquoise pool.
Our return to the parking area was by climbing up the steep staircase found at the lower falls location. It is a good thing I took Lipitor beforehand.
Upon our return to the Holiday Inn, we decided to try the Mexican Cantina across the way. My sixth sense let me down this time. The food was standard fare with a little too much salt added in for good measure. We could have floated a lead weight on top of the salt that was laid to it. We started to wonder if the Dead Sea was still OK. We decided to find the nearest desalination plant for treatment before retiring.

NEXT DAY

Saturday, April 30th 2011

The Holiday Inn had complimentary breakfast ready at 6am and we took some time to enjoy coffee and such. Since much was accomplished the day of arrival, we decided to cancel a second night’s stay and return to Pittsburgh later in the day.

Our early start allowed us to revisit all of the locations we covered on Friday for a second opportunity to capture additional images. The coolness of morning slowly retreats as the warmth of a new spring day advanced.

Our first stop was Ash cave (route 56). The boisterous songbirds welcomed us in the cool of morning as we hiked the trail. The early light was much improved but the quantity of water was diminished. (Three cascading falls Friday reduced to 2 ½ the next day) It being a Saturday, weekend warrior photography enthusiast joined us at the cave. As expected, we found many more people running about all day long.

Our next stop was Cedar Cave (route 374) and we made an effort to seek even more creative image captures than the day before. (Again the water just overnight had diminished somewhat)

We decided to visit a location passed by the day before. Cockle’s Hollow is an interesting natural area set further apart from the other park features (Route 374). It is a refreshing hike back along the trail with high cliffs towering on both sides. The trail leads back to a small waterfall named Beckwith Falls. It is set deep into a dark alcove of rock. If the sunlight strikes the water at the perfect moment, it can be an interesting image capture.

Lunch was enjoyed at the Dinning Lodge buffet style. The selections are standard country fare and not bad. I over did it as is my habit; so off to Old Mans Cave to work it off. At this point, the bones began to complain a little.

Old Mans Cave was crowded with jubilant visitors. We took the center access point down into the gorge and hiked along the upper trail. Our image captures were rewarding. Our cup runs over with spring hiking and a cornucopia of waterfall photography. Our return to Pittsburgh was by Ohio 668 NE, 37 W, 668 N to Exit 141 on I 70 the East to Washington PA I 79 to Pittsburgh. Route 688 is a roller coaster ride of a road.

Evelyn had a refreshing dinner ready upon our homecoming.

THE END

Grand Teton and Yellowstone Trip 2010

Grand Teton & Yellowstone & Idaho Trip (2010)

“The winds of natures grace are always blowing. It is for us to raise our sails.” John Muir

Introduction

It was decided to select the last full week of September to visit Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks because this time of year offers outstanding autumn colors and wildlife activity.
These national parks are special gems among the 23 national parks that I have visited. The landscapes are second to none and the abundance of wildlife rivals that of Denali or any of the other parks I have been privileged to visit.
This year an experiment was proposed to enjoy the visit with friends from the Pittsburgh Photography Club. A finer assembly of friends could not be found. The experiment was a great success and all 16 of us had a great time practicing our passion for photography.
The weather was oddly warm and the sun pressed hot during midday. Each and every day presented clear skies and the opportunities to apply our art did not disappoint.

Saturday, September 25th 2010

My United Airways flight into Jackson Hole was uneventful. One should travel with the least encumbrance as possible. The Jackson Hole Airport is in a state of transition growing in size. After obtaining an Avis rental vehicle I was off and running. My plan to go down into Jackson and obtain supplies was thrown out the window as soon as the mighty Teton’s came into view. I got the photography equipment out and hit the park road near Moose Junction. The $25 admission fee was waved for the day.

The aspen and cottonwood scattered across vast fields of sagebrush had various stages of color. Those that had the finest golden colors stood proudly around Oxbow Bend in the northern section of the park along the Snake River. Since my previous visit during the spring of 2005, many more evergreen trees have been killed by the mountain pine bark beetle. About 18% of the trees are afflicted. Research is underway in an attempt to mitigate this appalling development. Other than that single darkness all else is grandeur and majesty beyond anything imaginable. It is difficult to explain and showing a picture to someone is like showing a picture of apple pie to a starving person; inadequate at best.

Although it was dry, the water continued to flow in the rivers, streams, marshes, and lakes. The dry climate requires that you apply lip balm and eye drops while in the area. The thin air of the elevated altitude becomes noticeable upon exertion.

After a dinner at Dornan’s near Moose Junction, I decided to make haste to my accommodations before they gave my room to somebody else. The location of the Snake River Lodge is in Teton Village and about 9 miles south of the Moose Junction park entrance in the southern section of Grand Teton National Park (GTNP). It is about 12 miles north of Jackson. At first this seemed an inconvenience but I soon discovered it a blessing in disguise. Moose Wilson road (MWR) is a pathway between the junction of Moose and route 22. I discovered while going to check in, that this roadway is one of the most active wildlife locations in the park and I dare say in the entire region. I had to fight my way through dozens of big gun photographers and a gauntlet of parked cars to reach the lodge. Several black bear were toiling at the berry harvest along the road and park rangers were making efforts to control the pressing onlookers. I was fearful that a bear working in a tree might fall onto my car as I drove by. Needless to say, I jumped out and tried to take some photographs but it was a circus. The light was muted by then and the bear were in a tangle of berry bush branches. I drove up a little past the congestion and another bear crossed the road in front of me and went up into a berry bush tree. Other people noticed me out snapping pictures and many started down to my newly discovered location. Wildlife photography like this is very difficult and I am sure even more difficult away from the roadways in the wilderness. One needs the correct equipment, skill, and knowledge to achieve quality wildlife images. In addition to this the really great wildlife images are those that have character, high quality, and impact. I noticed that the professionals all lined up away from the crowds with tripods and giant lenses biding their time. They knew that eventually the bear would make its way down to the waters edge and reflect in it. They patiently waited for the bear to make his way down and took the shot with a steady camera and considerable magnification. A novice photographer should not disregard what the professionals teach by example; they should try to mimic their behavior as if in a workshop.

Snake River Lodge is a well appointed accommodation. All that I will say is that Travelocity hooked me up. I would normally never stay in such a place but could not pass up the deal. The $25/day resort fee was waved upon request. The single base camp was decided because I have an affinity for the Teton’s more so than Yellowstone (YSNP) and planned to spend more time in and around Jackson Hole Valley. Each park has its charm but the Teton’s is the greater charm.

Sunday, September 26th 2010

The predawn heavens were filled with silver starlight and bright moonlight. It is a lamentable thing to become dismissive of Gods wonders. Each and every chance to embrace the magic of such spectacle must be treasured while breath is gifted to us.

Traversing MWR during the darkness of predawn is a foreboding undertaking. The considerable likelihood that big game should wonder out onto the dark unlit roadway had me grip the steering wheel more tightly. The bright moonlight assisted matters. A kingly bull elk stood pompously along the roadside as the high beams illuminated him and not long afterward his noble bugle echoed across the woodlands.

My early morning goal was a place called Schwabachers Landing. Upon my arrival I was infuriated to find three ill-bred Neanderthals out in the water on a make shift platform that was unlawfully placed. About 30 other photographers joined me in my anger as the sun shed light upon the classic image. Our collective protest failed to remove them and only afterward did I contemplate the one action that might have succeeded. We should have called the rangers and told them of the crime and that wildlife habitat was currently being contaminated and destroyed by three criminals. 20/20 hindsight never helps anything. The classic sunrise shot could not be captured and so alternative work was done. I would return another day in hopes to capture this rewarding view; the Grand Teton reflecting into a mirror beaver pond based by evergreens and aspen.

Onward to Oxbow Bend I went. The cottonwoods and aspen in this location are well along and become more colorful each day. Mount Moran reflects into a calm bend of the Snake River as do the golden trees along its banks. I explored the area around this iconic location to discover many additional perspectives of Mount Moran. The roadway just above the turnout location leads back to an inlet that very well could offer wildlife opportunities in the early or late hours. Along this road are many compositional offerings of Mount Moran. The brilliant sunlit trees from behind are spectacular.

Pacific Creek Road, not far from Oxbow Bend, is also brimming with vivid aspen and many photographers joined me in exploring this area.

I ventured along the park road to Signal Mountain and climbed up, by car, to the first overlook. I parked and walked to the right for the viewpoint; from here one can see the inspiring mountains at a lofty position. I had to pause and take it all in at that time. One should always take some time to embrace the moment and stop long enough to smell the sagebrush and evergreen. I put the camera down and sat on a fallen tree for a few moments of reflection.

My friends Akshay and Arshi were also in the area, unbeknownst to me. Going back down to meet them at Signal Mountain Lodge Café for lunch, a black bear was showing off by the roadside. I did not get a chance to photograph him but many cars stopped to take a look.

I met Akshay and Arshi for lunch at the Peaks Restaurant and enjoyed a Ruben Sandwich. We enjoyed talking about all that we had experienced so far. They both gave me a full YSNP report. Arshi told of how the bison crossed the road to delay traffic for some time and of the sulfur odor. Sulfur can be a problem when you are traveling on top of the largest active volcano in the world. They could not help but notice my bloodshot eyes and fatigued look. My childlike excitement had me going on all cylinders since getting off the aircraft but my energy was depleted.

As I returned to the south my progress was yet again halting as wildlife along the roadside made its appearance. A prideful bull Elk escorting his ladies across the silver sagebrush pranced long enough for me to capture a few shots of him. I made my way down to Jackson for supplies at Smiths groceries. Dinner was enjoyed at El Abuelito, a highly recommended and local favorite Mexican restaurant along Broadway.

Monday, September 27th 2010

After the fiasco at Schwabachers Landing the morning before, I decided to try again this morning and found the location much more pleasant. Today was a day of exploration in and around the park. I explored up to the south gate of Yellowstone and turned back. The dazzling lemon colors all along the northern sections of the park left me stunned.

My mission was to find uncommon picturesque views of the Teton Range. The common iconic locations are matchless but I would rather try to locate unique points of view as well. The day grew hot as the bright sun bathed the valley. I viewed a large Bison herd in the distance as I traveled.

I made my way down the park road to Lupine Meadows Road. I had no idea what would be discovered once the parking lot was found at its end. The trees simply blaze back in this location as the sunlight filters through them. Big granite rocks colonize the ground to add unique dimension to the views. The mountains tower behind and made me feel like a small insect.

Upon my return to Moose Junction I could not help but notice a large encampment of big gun photographer’s around the bridge area. The Moose family was the attraction. I had to stop and be counted among them. As I approached the question was asked if Elvis had returned from the dead. I joined the vigil but found not long into it that my battery was flashing the red warning light. What to do? I told the professionals standing around and some offered to help with spare batteries but no match was available. All were patiently waiting for the big Bull Moose to stand up and show off for everyone and at a very close range. I had a spare at the car about 200 yards away. The pro’s told me I had better run to get it because I would most probably never again have a close range chance at a Bull Moose like this again. So I jogged to the car, got the spare, staggered back, and as I approached a symphony of shutters chattered all at once. The Bull Moose stood up at that moment and I got several good shots of him. He returned to his bedded position not 5 minutes afterward. The comradery of the art was never so celebrated afterward, with high fives and hand shakes to last the rest of the week- touchdown!

Dinner was enjoyed at nearby Dornan’s Bar & Grill.

Tuesday, September 28th 2010

Considering that I needed light to photograph the abundant wildlife on MWR I decided to get a late start today. The sun was up and I started around 720am. It was a carnival of activity, as expected; the big guns had taken all the parking spaces near the hot spot. What I am about to explain is not overstated. At one small marshy location near the road two cow Moose were in the water feeding, two black bear were in the berry bushes, and a lordly bull Elk emerged from cover to take a gander at the event just up the road, all at the same time and within a 20 yard radius. The rangers had no idea what to do. They threw up their hands and tried to make the best of it. I positioned myself as the pro’s were doing down by the waters edge and got the reflection shot of a bear drinking water. Later a full-sized bear was crossing the road to go down to the water and meandered so close to us that we could have reached out to pet him. His harsh eyes told us we dare not and I backed away with purposeful speed. This is not just a national park but a wildlife safari.

After I had my fill at the safari, I decided to try the barns along Mormon Row and did so. A few prong horned Deer frolicked in nearby auburn grass. Since the proximity is close, I decided to venture down Antelope Flats road and onto Gros Ventre Road. Several miles back is Lower Slide Lake. The turquoise lake was adorned with chartreuse cottonwood trees and autumn blooming wildflowers.

The road becomes more isolated the further back one drives. I decided to stop at Crystal Creek and have my box lunch. The big sky country and hushed solitude brought a spiritual calm to me. I decided to put the camera away and sit near the creek to enjoy lunch. The musical water was glacier cold as it splashed along its predestined path.

On my return trip I stopped again at the lake and watched three beautiful Trumpeter Swans land in the distant waters. An old dilapidated homestead is near the end of the road going back into Jackson Hole and offers a perfect picture window to frame the Grand Teton in. I had to get some height to position the frame well. Down in the small community of Kelly is an interesting old wagon that has fallen apart and offers a good foreground to frame the mountains in. A big Bison herd was marching across the prairie heading to 191 junction.

Going back down MWR, later in the day, a change was noticed. The park rangers blocked off any parking within 1 mile of the wildlife activity zone and had an increased presence. Bear remained very busy in the area as I drove by them working on the berries.

Wednesday, September 29th 2010

Today was the long trek up into Yellowstone. I got a 3:30am start traveling MWR with great care then at Moose got onto 191 north and made my way to meet my good friend Sam at Lake Lodge. At 6:30 in the morning Sam and I made our way to Canyon Falls for a predawn shoot. The lower falls in the canyon are an iconic image of America. The water surge was abundant and the presence of place while standing at Artist Point is enigmatic. We shot many long exposures at different compositional perspectives. Once the sun directed its rays onto the waterfalls it was time to depart and find other wonders.

In our exploration of the park we stopped at celebrated geothermal features such as Artist Paint Pots, Prismatic Spring, Mud Pots, Sulfur Cauldron, and others. Since this is the unsurpassed geothermal site on earth the geysers and other attractions seem infinite. It is remarkable to witness the extremophile life that endures among the boiling waters and acidic steam. The Grand Prismatic Spring is the principal example of this. The brilliant multicolored abstract around the cerulean pool is caused by various types of extreme life that lives around the pools edge.

Our stop at Old Faithful was as expected, faithful, and right on time for the predictable eruption. The new visitor’s center is a very nice addition since my last visit. The western style buffet lunch at Old Faithful Inn was enjoyable. The famous Inn is constructed from enormous timbers of lodge-pole pine and other nearby materials. It flaunts a towering convoluted ceiling with elaborate pathways to guestrooms.

The American Bison is the apex of the parks fauna hierarchy based upon numbers and accessibility to spectators. They march alongside roadways and come very close to people taking pictures. They can be deceptively tolerant of human presence and thus the cause of several goring each year. It was at this time we decided to take a coffee break just to help us stay awake for the good light later in the day. We spotted an Elk and his harem up on a hill and tried to get some shots of them.

Dinner was enjoyed back at Lake Lodge café with the team. We had a great time talking of the days events and plans for the next morning. Kal, Bob, Mary, Frank, Laura, Rose Marie, Sam, and I were all present. The next days plan was to hike Red Rock Trail down to an overlook of lower Canyon Falls.

Thursday, September 30th 2010

With flashlights at the ready we hiked down the 500 foot Red Rock Trail to lower Canyon Falls. Much of the trail is wooden steps leading down to the overlook. Kal helped us apply our art with masterful instruction. Once the sunlight began to shine upon the canyon we made a paced retreat to the Hayden Valley. Fog and steam rolled up from the waters around a Bison Herd. Frost was backlit on each of their powerful shoulders and the Hayden Valley was alive in the coolness of dawn. They marched along the roadside consuming the grass as they went. The sun just began to shine creating superb backlighting. We all stopped, got out, and made the best of the opportunity. The magic of light is best in early morning no matter where one might be.

We all gathered to enjoy a hardy breakfast back at the café. Don’t worry, by this time the good light was diminished and we took advantage of it while we had the opportunity.

At this point our group decidedly went in different directions. As Sam and I progressed along the Madison River we noticed a multitude of tourist pulled off to the roadside. A Hartford Insurance Company Bull Elk was in the river surrounded by his ladies. We stopped and took advantage of the opportunity to capture striking wildlife at relatively close courtiers. The Bull Elk stood fearless protected by ice cold waters.

West Yellowstone is a small gateway town crammed with touristy shops and stores. We proceeded through a small section of Montana and into Idaho. Seeing the potato farmers applying their trade was fascinating. We stopped to talk to a group of workers as they processed the harvest. In addition to this, Mesa Falls along the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway was also interesting to witness. The waterfall is impressive and has an upper and lower tear. The lower tear is distant and inaccessible. We could only capture record shots from a distance in the harsh afternoon light. The road was long and the distant Teton Range grew closer as time drew on. Teton pass from the Idaho side over to Jackson is a 10% grade up and down. I have traversed more formidable roads in my day but never enjoy doing so. God help you if the car breaks go out.

We made it back to Jackson by 6pm and we all meet at the Cadillac Grill adjacent to the Cowboy Bar to share a nice dinner. I had Bison Brisket in savory gravy and several others recommend the scrumptious Alaskan Halibut. Many art photography galleries can be found in town and I stopped to visit a few of them. Some of the work gave me ideas for my next and last day of photography in the region.

Friday, October 1st 2010

Sam and I met at Schwabachers Landing. I was delayed on MWR for obvious reasons. At this point I decided to try one of those energy drinks that are selling so well these days. They really work.

We explored the park road and stopped at various locations all over the valley. Lunch was obtained at Dornan’s deli and they make a great “to order” sandwich. We decided to join the other photographers and wait for the Bull Moose to pose for us near the bridge and so he did after about 45minutes.

The boat shuttle that delivers people to and from Cascade Canyon Trailhead was yet open for its last day of the season. While hiking Jenny Lake trail the bugle of several Elk could be heard. After a 1 hour hike along Jenny Lake trail we returned to the boat launch and took it across to the mountains lakeside base. Reports from others told of how the waters of Hidden Falls were not flowing and that the cascade was flowing at a minimal rate. We decided to return rather than huff it up the mountain not to mention that the last shuttle would depart in a half hour.

I was dead on my feet at this point so I made my retreat to the lodge and agreed to meet Sam at his cabin in Jackson later on. At the cabins we reviewed the days events with the crew then had a late dinner at El Abuelito.

Saturday, October 2nd 2010

After a week spent like this I am ready for any fate. It is a heartrending day to depart God’s country. I somberly packed up everything, filled the rental with gas, and made way to the airport. The return flight was uneventful. I am presently suffering from Post Traumatic Grand Teton Disorder. The Doctor said it will pass after a few weeks. This scribbling, no matter how industriously written, offers only hints to persuade those that read them to feast at natures table.

My Grand Teton & Yellowstone Report is at hand.

Florida 2010

Florida Trip 2010

My good friends Sam and Evelyn invited me down to the sunny state of Florida to spend some quality time. They rolled out the red carpet making me feel like one of the family. The ocean front setting at Daytona Beach, high above on the 12th floor of their well appointed condominium, is grand. Bike week was in full swing and over 250,000 bikers from all over the country made their presence known. Weather was not too bad considering that I arrived with snow and ice on my shoulders. It was cool by Florida standards but not unpleasant. Thus the marathon begins.

Thursday, March 4th 2010

My South West flight was uneventful. Sam met me at the Orlando airport and we made way to Blue Spring State Park in Orange City. This is a prime location to view the Florida Manatee in the wild. The warm spring water is a refuge for them during cold snaps as Florida has had. The river inlet remains at a constant 72°F all year. The large mammals slumber around in slow motion to reserve energy. Tranquil turquoise water allows visitors to see into the water from boardwalks along the river banks. We could look into the waters and see countless tropical fish of different size swim among the Manatee. A calf kept close to its mother as they basket in the warm sunlight. The high contrast of light and dark made it difficult to photograph. Sam suggested a polarizer and by gum it helped out.

As we made our way to Daytona I was enamored by the tropical birds along the roadside. Egrets of different types used the ditch water to forage morsels of food.

The famed Daytona International Speedway lived up to its reputation. What a grand setting it was. Its mammoth size alone stunned me. Super bike racing was the weekend headliner and those small bikes flash along the track at 180 mph. To see the place properly we traversed the tunnel leading inside. Like a giant coliseum the roar of lions was replaced by the roar of combustion. This was but a taste of what would be witnessed the next day.

Our trek took us down Beach Street in Daytona where the Biker Rally was bivouacked. I never knew so many bikes existed in the world. Every street, every corner, every parking lot was filled to capacity with motorcycles of every shape and size. Parking was being sold at a premium. This is the true backbone of America, I thought. The freedom of feeling the wind blow while howling down the highways of America cannot be explained. That is what freedom is all about. Biker chicks proudly exhibited their shapely features while us guys drooled. We will save this action for later; let’s move on to the famous beach before I get too excited.

Ev greeted us with enthusiasm. I settled down in a nice room and then we all went to Inlet Harbor restaurant for dinner. All the food was terrific. I enjoyed some well prepared sea scallops with exceptionally fine hushpuppies. The mistake of not ordering the famous key-lime pie was almost made. The pie is out of this world and comes highly recommended. It had the tang of lime but the sensation of cheesecake all at the same time.

Off to the side is the bar area where bikers had fun with beer based contests; winners got free beer as a reward. The tangerine sunset sparkling across the harbor waters was a welcome conclusion for the day.

Friday, March 5th 2010

Sunrise at the Main Street Pier during the cool morning refreshed my spirit. The ocean waves crashing onto the fine sandy beach gives one a renewed feeling. Our celestial fireball cast its spell over everything as it broke above the horizon.

We proceeded to a small hidden diner called Pats River Front Café. The locals love it and the breakfast was good. It’s located on South Peninsula Drive in Port Orange. Classic car photos are used as wall coverings and the charm of the place is well worth a visit.

Continuing, we went on to the Tomika Landfill. It might sound like an odd tourist attraction but many tropical birds and American Bald Eagles frequent the landfill. This presents good opportunity to capture some nice images of them. Our opportunities this day were not great but it was interesting to see the place.

After our morning photography safari we went to the Daytona Flea & Farmers Market. It is located on Bellevue Ave at Daytona Beach. Our home market has nothing on this market. Endless rows of booths selling all kinds of stuff stretch in all directions. The mangos, orange, and strawberry have a better flavor in Florida. They were put to good use later when Ev made fruit salad from them and we all enjoyed a balcony lunch back at the lily pad.

We returned to the speedway to photograph the super bike race. General admission is relatively costly but includes fanzone and garage access. This is America. “American born, race fan by the grace of god.” With all the race fans and bikers in town the beer distributors and other vendors must rake in the coin.

After the race our destination was Main Street Daytona and boy was it loaded with Bike Week Bikers. Motorcycles parade up and down the famous street in all their glory. Everything seems to have a dark skull on it, helmets, jackets, shirts, tats, and face scarves. Foxy girls dressed in almost nothing danced around putting a grin on my face and the camera shutter going in fast motion. The famous Boot Hill Salon had folks coming and going all day and night. Roar and fumes mingled side by side giving an ambiance of foreboding. But it’s all good fun that’s cool to experience, at least once during life. I have more sand at the bottom of my hour glass than is at the top so the more fun the better.

Later we enjoyed another exceptional dinner, this time at a place called Aunt Catfish’s down by the Halifax River. It is a very popular place and was understandably crowded. Those that know call in reservations and they honor them. Others wait up to an hour or more. The attraction is an outstanding salad bar with cheese grits and quality blue cheese dressing. The crab cake dinner was scrumptious including hushpuppies and other sides. I was full as a tick upon departure; highly recommended but call in advance.

Saturday, March 6th 2010

Saturday morning was a before dawn get up so that we could make it to Merritt Island for sunrise. Merritt Island is a wildlife refuge near the Kennedy Space Center, visible at a distance. We made sunrise at 6:45am and with beautiful marshland as a foreground and palm tress along the horizon, it was impressive. It was a cool 40°F but the suns warmth bathed the wetlands bringing a celebration of tropical bird activity with it. Great Egrets and Snowy Egrets began to busy themselves all about. Gators emerged from hiding to sun themselves in the open. The magic of life was everywhere.

Black Point Wildlife Drive is a must during a visit and we followed its one way loop, stopping to photograph the birds as we went. The early morning light glittered on the Egrets white feathers making them glow. Hundreds of Egrets made their presence known but thousands of wild ducks dominated the waterways. Countless black ducks blanketed the wetlands as far as the eye could see. The hand of the creator was manifest upon every gaze in every direction. A Bald Eagle was perched high above on a palm tree but flew away before a photo could be taken; its noble wings soaring across the blue sky.

Upon our return to Daytona we all enjoyed a nice dinner at Joy Luck-1 super buffet on Dunlawton Avenue in Port Orange. The selections are many and a big bang for the buck.

Sunday March 7th 2010

It was a decidedly easy get up today. Mike’s Galley on South Atlantic Avenue is a great place to breakfast because the coffee is rich and they bake delicious fresh pastries. I asked for Greek coffee and got a big stir from the guests.

After fueling up on breakfast, morning exercise was walking the beach for an hour.
Ev joined us today and we took a road trip along route a1a to Saint Augustine. Route a1a follows the coast and several interesting attractions are found along the way; Tamoka State Park counted among them. This park has an elder oak tree called the Fair Child oak. Spanish moss drapes over its tangled branches creating a pictorial image. It is a stately oak of considerable proportions and its branches snake in all directions. Another intriguing stop is Washington Oaks State Garden. The garden was not at its full potential but potential it had in abundance. The peculiar cold stunted its blooms. Along the road near Flagler Beach are many salons and places to eat, its fishing pier is impressive.

Once we arrived in Saint Augustine our lunch was relished at Columbia the gem of Spanish Restaurants in the heart of the historic district. This was one of the most pleasurable occasions of my trip. The service, ambiance, and cuisine are second to none. A pitcher of brandy and Champaign sangria was prepared tableside with jealous onlookers ordering the same soon after the show. The lobster filled crepes I ordered were smothered in a savory cheese and wine gravy while the 1905 salad left me wanting seconds. Spanish singers entertained our table with southern European flare.

Saint Augustine has too many attractions and is too big to discover in a single short afternoon. Founded by the Spanish in 1565 it is the oldest port city in the US. Railroad tycoon Henry Flagler brought the wealthy to the area. The grand Spanish Colonial Flagler College and museums are but a few of the sites to see while visiting.

Sam and I went across the way to visit Castillo de San Marcos National Monument. This is a star fort constructed of coquina, a compressed shell stone found in the area. Five different flags have flown over the fortress since 1695. A canon demonstration was performed topside. We returned to town and stopped at Sabannah’s confectionary. The chocolate caramel turtles they make are renowned. Before we started home, one last but no less important stop was at the Café del Hidalgo to pick up a fresh, chief made, gelato. This gelato’s quality is top shelf.


On our return trip we stopped to see some nesting owls with both mother and father being careful to keep watch at yet another State Park. Once back we had a late day snack at Stavros Greek Pizza. We had a fun waitress and the pizza was good.

Monday March 8th 2010

My last day gave me a feeling of melancholy not wanting to end the good times so soon. After finishing off the mouthwatering mango for breakfast Sam took me back to Orlando for departure, but not before stopping at Gator Land. Gator Land has a huge tropical bird rookery in its midst. The weather started to get warmer and the steamy sun pressed against my Pennsylvanian face.

Hundreds of wild birds have a community within the facility grounds. They construct nesting and several nurtured newly hatched chicks in clear view, much closer than would be possible out in the sticks. I have no way to number the gators in the place but I venture to say about 300 or more. The birds also number in the hundreds. It was an enjoyable send off activity.

I can only say that my paltry wherewithal could never repay Sam and Ev’s kindness. It was a memorable fun time well spent that will not be forgotten.

Utah Photography Trip

October 2009

Colorado Plateau Adventure

In this adventure, I was accompanied by fellow photography enthusiasts Sam and Ralph. Our trek took us to five National Parks and a Navajo Tribal Park along with the world famous slot canyons near Page Arizona. We put over 1500 miles on the rental SUV and between the three of us created over 4000 image captures. This blog will disclose useful advice for those hardy enough to follow our example. The topography of the region is both inspiring and otherworldly. Late October into November was the time chosen because the crowds are less, the cottonwood tree is in color; the temperatures are moderate, and off-season travel has other benefits. It might be best to print this blog for easy reading.

Saturday, October 24th 2009

We had an uneventful South West Airline flight to Las Vegas from Pittsburgh, PA. The flight took us above Zion National Park and viewing it from above was a delightful introduction to its magnificence. The parks topography stands tall while surrounded by lowland desert.

Once we retrieved our luggage, we took the shuttle to the rental car facility. Las Vegas has made efforts to control the chaos of rental cars, shuttles, and taxi service so a single facility housed all the rental car options under one roof. Budget rental gave us a free upgrade and waved other additional fees on our behalf. The Toyota four-wheel drive SUV was loyal from start to finish. Budget is recommended for its competitive rates and service.

After a short time, we were off heading to Zion by route 15 north to 9 east. Interstate 15 speed limit is 75mph so the 145-mile trip was made in good time. Route 15 has a short section in Arizona that is very striking. We stopped near Saint George to pick up a cooler and other supplies. We had a fast lunch at Wendy’s. Route 9 east became increasingly picturesque as we approached the gateway town of Springdale. First lesson learned is to have the photography equipment ready for route 9 going to Springdale. As the sun fell low to the horizon, the colors of the monoliths waxed rich burgundy hues. The towering cliffs that surround Springdale light up like a Christmas tree during early evening. Canyon Ranch Motel is a nice and affordable place to stay near Zion. Before settling down for the night, we scouted out locations in the dark and enjoyed dinner at the Spotted Dog Café.

After dinner, we chased the sunset for all it was worth and found a place off route 9 going south. It was the best we could do without planning a specific location, as we should have.


Sunday, October 25th 2009

Early during predawn, we went to our first sunrise location found behind the Zion Park museum where the Towers of the Virgin loom high above. The sunrise set the top of this feature aglow. Many photographers joined us. As the warm light caressed the towers, the grand spectacle became even more entrancing. Since the lower meadow leading up to the tower remained in shadow, it was imperative we use our neutral density graduated filters and the effect is superb. The sublime event is not to be missed while one visits Zion.

After the sunrise, we proceeded to the visitor’s center where we took the mandatory shuttle into the park. Our first shuttle stop was Court of the Patriarchs. These rock monoliths are so named after the biblical patriarchs Isaac, Jacob, and Abraham. As we progressed deeper into the park, it became more apparent why it was named Zion. It truly has a powerful presence unlike any other park that I have been privileged to visit. The cottonwood trees are at about 50% color and should peak sometime during the second week in November. As we explored for the perfect composition I happened across a group of wild turkey strutting around. They approached me without a care.

Onward to Zion Park Lodge where the Emerald Pools trailhead begins. Across the rust colored park road, we followed the path to a bridge crossing the Virgin River. At the bridge, the photographic opportunities began. We looked up and down the river and the compositions could not be ignored; a towering sunlit monolith reflecting in the river with bright yellow cottonwoods framing it on all sides.

The trail leads upward and wild deer roam along its side whimsically. The first of the three pools is interesting and water protection for the camera was needed as rain-like sprinkles cascade off the overhanging cliff face. I took from my backpack a plastic bag and covered the camera. Good boots are helpful to ensure firm footing while traversing the trail. The middle pool is yet further up the steep hillside. We were split up at this point and all worked to regain unity, however that did not occur until we all sat down to lunch at the Zion Park Lodge. The Red Cliff Café is comfortable and has an inviting atmosphere to enjoy a simple lunch. I had the delicious soup and the bourbon pecan pie for dessert.

We then proceeded to the last shuttle stop at the end of the scenic park road; the Temple of Sinawava. It is from here that we hiked the Riverside Walk trail. This easy paved trail leads back to the famous narrows. All along this trail are magnificent sights to appreciate. Many of the trees are in color and great-multicolored monoliths or towers reach high above everyplace we looked. When we arrived at the gateway to the narrows, we could see that the Virgin River in this location has many large rounded stones in its bed. Traversing this pathway into the narrows is relatively challenging and several outfitters offer guidance and proper equipment to do so in Springdale. The Narrows is a large slot canyon were the Virgin River runs through. The round trip is about 2 miles on the Riverside Walk Trail. When boarding the shuttle make sure to note the direction it is going to prevent wasted time.

The day grew late and the light from the sun cast a spell on the Cottonwood leaves backlighting them creating a dazzling effect. We scrambled to take advantage of this wonderful lightshow that seemed to have an increased effect inside the canyon. The red rock walls provided a stunning background for this purpose. What a regal exhibition.

We made haste to the bridge near the Canyon Junction shuttle stop in order to capitalize on the warming light where the Watchmen is best photographed. It is a short walk to the bridge from the shuttle stop. Parking near the bridge is limited and it can become crowded during this time of day. The Watchmen is a soaring peak that is named so because it acts as a sentry before the canyon. When the sun sets low to the horizon it cast a rich side light upon the peak. We discovered after some study that the light is best directly before the sun retreats behind the high cliff to the right, as we looked south. After the sun is gone behind the cliff the cottonwoods along the river are cast in shadow. In late October the time of day for best results is near 5pm. A pathway along the river below leads to other bike trail bridges and the perspective from this area can be unique and well worth the time.

After photographing Zion, we realized that the dynamic light within the canyon, at times, is difficult to work with. The extreme range in shadow and highlight requires some fancy footwork. This can be achieved with graduated neutral density filters or computer software such as High Dynamic Range and Adobe Photoshop. A polarizer is also useful in cutting glare and increasing color contrast but one should be careful not to over do it. Nevertheless, it is best to avoid lighting extremes when ever possible.

Monday, October 26th 2009

We discovered that Pioneer Lodge Café is the only place in Springdale open before dawn. At 6 am we placed our orders. The coffee and fresh baked scones were a welcome treat to start the early day. I recommend the cherry chocolate scone. The café has a large fireplace constructed of petrified wood. It also has internet accommodations for checking e-mail and printing airline-boarding passes.
We made a point to check the time for sunrise and accordingly arrived at another recommended sunrise site just past Canyon Junction going toward Mount Carmel Tunnel. A stone bridge is found along route 9 that presents a good location to photograph the sunrise illuminating the Sentinel across the valley floor. It happened to be a clear starlit night and we made efforts to record star trails while time remained. It seems you need to keep the shutter open several minutes to have any noticeable effect.
The compass let us know where the sun would rise and we awaited it bundled up in gloves, hooded sweat shirts, jackets, and what ever other warm clothing we could find.
Once the light warmed the rocky crags across the autumn colored valley, it became another incredible scene. After a time we decided it was prudent to start our journey to Bryce Canyon National Park along route 9 going to 89 north then to route 12 east. Little did we understand how captivating the topography would be along the way. The tunnel is a marvel of engineering and has huge windows that allow for quick glimpse into the canyon when driving through it. The east side of Zion is brimming in photographically stunning features including the famous Checkerboard Mesa. At the junction of routes, 89 and 12 the Red Rock Canyon vicinity is found. It is like getting the red carpet treatment before entering Bryce Canyon country.
Many richly colored hoodoos and twisted evergreens garnish the location. We had time to stop and photograph this marvel before proceeding. The landscapes along route 12 caused us to progress haltingly to route 63 where Ruby’s Inn is found a few miles from the park entrance. Although we made many photography stops during the trip to Ruby’s Inn, we arrived well ahead of schedule.
We checked into the Inn and found our rooms to be well ordered. We then enjoyed lunch at the restaurant. The buffet offers simple and good country food and helps save time. Several international tour groups shared the place with us during lunch. After lunch, we made haste to the park impatiently anticipating a first look into the famous ampatheater. I made a careless decision to venture down into the canyon at Sunset Point. We later found that Sunrise Point would have been the short way to the Queens Garden. The Navajo trail breaks off to the Queens Garden and onward to Sunrise Point. When descending down from Sunset Point it is a 3-mile journey but only a 0.8-mile journey from Sunrise Point. Not only that, but after ascending to Sunrise Point one needs to hike along the rim trail back to the car at Sunset Point. Nevertheless, it was a rewarding and never to be forgotten experience exploring the floor of the ampatheater. From this vantage point one can see the depth and mammoth proportions of the spectacle like none other. Nobody can fully appreciate Bryce National Park without traversing its floor.
After about 3 hours of hiking down along the floor and going uphill both ways, our bodies did a little complaining, ordering us to bed like a scornful mother. Nonetheless, we doggedly explored other locations in the park by car and did important scouting for morning. Late day light in Bryce can be very good and we took advantage of it. Wild deer roam the flatlands bordering the hoodoo-enchanted gulf. Before crashing for the night, we stopped by Ruby’s again for dinner. Ruby’s Inn is the only sensible choice for accommodations when visiting Bryce Canyon National Park.

Tuesday, October 27th 2009

An unseasonably cold weather front pushed into the region with premeditated malice. With hopefulness, we had a quick breakfast at Ruby’s just as they opened and then proceeded to Sunrise Point. The bitter cold and disagreeable overcast dashed hope that the opulence of the hoodoo adorned chasm would light up as foretold by those blessed to witness it. However, we took a few photographs for the record and decided to continue our journey. The best vantage point to set up a tripod for dawn is along the rim trail between sunrise and sunset points; from this location you can point the camera in both directions that yield more options than the viewing points. Route 12 is one of the most scenic byways in America and during our trek to Capitol Reef National Park discovered it lived up to its reputation. An unending cornucopia of multicolored landscapes is found around every turn. The road is not difficult to drive. Yes, it has many turns and some steep embankments such as the noteworthy “Hog Back”. But relative to Independence Pass in Colorado it’s a synch.
Along route 12 leading up to Torrey we stopped near Boulder Utah and found a small little eatery in the middle of nowhere called Boulder Mesa Restaurant. It’s just off 12 down a short dirt road. The kindly woman running the place treated us to her home cooking. The homemade granola bar she offered proved a wise choice for the road. Off we go into the wild blue yonder again. Just north of Boulder are huge stands of Aspen trees that were well past color but the potential in this location must be incredible during peak color. Along the way we stopped at an apple orchard and purchased some apples from some nice farmers just opening their stand. Apples are a good road food to have and the sooner one gets them the better. These apples seemed to be better than most for some reason. On our approach to Capitol Reef National Park, the cottonwood trees became more pronounced with bright yellow leaves dancing in the chilled wind. Along the park road is a nostalgic homestead with a particularly photogenic barn and fence framed by cottonwood trees. It is important to look at the setting from all angles to find the best perspective. A fast shutter speed helped stop the leaves from blurring.
Onward to Moab we went. Route 24 going to interstate 70 and beyond is open 65-75mph road. We made good time for this reason. These routes, relative to what we have witnessed are of marginal photographic interest. I am sure that the sagebrush carpeting the endless desert would beg to differ. Moab is a much larger more populated gateway community than Springdale or any other town we have seen since Las Vegas. I was concerned that Inca Inn would be a poor lodging accommodation but it was not bad considering the low budget price. We unloaded the Toyota and had dinner at the nearby Mexican restaurant La Hacienda. Nothing to write home about sad to say, we later discovered that the Moab Diner further into town would have been the better choice. The weather did not provide a suitable sunset so we called it a day.

Wednesday, October 28th 2009

A snowstorm was upon us Wednesday morning but Sam insisted upon going and his commendable driving shepherded us to Canyonlands in darkness while the snow fell. It is an hour drive all up hill and across two small neck bridges onto the Island in the Sky district. Our reward was a superb winter wonderland embellishing the vista that we found. At first, our optimism was dashed because the spiteful snow cloaked the overlook view. Yet as we looked around the realization dawned of a blessing in disguise. The snow provided special photographic opportunities. The lord looked down from above and seemed to say; “consider yourselves lucky that you have been allowed this much”. Mesa Arch is a unique Arch found near Green River Overlook where you can use the arch as a frame to view distant canyon features. The snow artfully veiled those features. We decided to double check the overlook one more time before departure and found a whiteout. During our descent, we stopped at Dead Horse Point State Park and found conditions along the way to be very beautiful. The anger of the storm subsided and a clearing allowed for some good photography of this wintry realm.
Our return to lower elevations took us to Arches National Park. We decided to go into Moab for fuel before our day of exploration. Arches is situated upon an elevated plateau and the park road is relatively steep but short to the top. Once on top the park reveals its treasures of huge fins near Park Avenue and numerous arches in the Windows District. Names like Fiery Furnace and Devils Garden are given different features because of the peculiar shapes that the colored stone has taken. It looks as if a violent volcanic event took place here in a forgotten age. Some of the arches are extraordinary in size and one is a double arch so named. We took some time to hike around in the windows district then followed the park road stopping at viewpoints. The sky was not favorable for good photography but we can fix that. The cold wind made us think before deciding on additional hikes.
As the sun set we left the park and had dinner at an Italian pizza place in Moab then called it a day.
Thursday, October 29th 2009

Our early morning breakfast was had at the Moab Diner. We should have patronized this local favorite exclusively, lesson learned. I enjoyed a hardy bacon and eggs with the works and the hot coffee was great.
On our way down 191 going to Monument Valley we encountered an even more difficult time with old man winter. Again, Sam’s heroic driving got us through it. As we traveled south, we noticed an interesting winter wonderland at Recapture Recreational Preserve off route 191. We decided to explore the area much to our collective delight. The lake and surrounding wilderness was blanketed in fresh snow. Wild ducks filled the sky and some cottonwoods remained colorful in the midst of it all. Needless to say, we spent some time creating photographs before heading out. The storm was clearing.
On to Mexican Hat were we found the famous rock formation just off 163 that is the town’s namesake. One of the better dinning experiences up to now was enjoyed at the San Juan Motel Café near the bridge. The Navajo Indians served a great Navajo beef stew with fry bread. Fry bread is a flavorful soft and fluffy flat bread deep-fried. The proprietor told us of the famous move stars that visited the place. The road going to Monument Valley is fast and wide open. As we approached the valley, many interesting landscapes slowed our progress. Multicolored layers of Navajo sandstone formations and countless other topographic features revealed themselves to us. Once on Route 163 going west the proud monoliths and buttes of Monument Valley are seen standing tall above the lowland plain in the distance.
After some time we arrived at Gouldings Motel around 2:00 in the afternoon and checked into our rooms. We confirmed our arrangements for a guided sunset tour then settled in. Reservations for sunset tours should be made no sooner and no later than 3 days from the date. The cost for us was $200 for a private tour free of other tourist.

Gouldings seems to be the place to stay when visiting. Its accommodations are very comfortable; any other option would be unwise. From our rooms we went out onto the balcony to survey the valley. The Mittens and other monuments are in clear view.
It came time for our 4pm tour and our Navajo guide Anna was very nice. We climbed aboard the enclosed van shut the doors and off we went. I explained to Anna our intentions and that we are photography nuts. The tour took us into restricted locations that others are forbidden to go unguided. Our first stop, available only to those so guided, was to an Indian hut where a Navajo woman demonstrated weaving. She allowed photography and the setting proved to be quite appealing to the camera. We discovered, belatedly, that tip cash should be taken care of before entering the area. We should have stopped somewhere beforehand to get small bills but we managed. The park road is moderately rough but the off road travel we experienced was more so. Anna seemed to have a good time with us finding it funny that we were being bounced around a little. She took us to see primeval pictographs and many interesting formations. She directed us to particular perspectives for photographing different scenic views. As the sun grew closer to the horizon, the pigment of the monuments became cinnamon crimson while snow on the ground embellished the view. Time was short and Anna told us it would have been better to get an early start to see more locations in the backcountry with unique perspectives. Now we know. Sunset was very nice and best photographed just inside the fee section of the tribal park at a place facing the Mittens.
After the tour, we said our goodbyes to Anna and tipped her. We then enjoyed dinner at the Gouldings Stagecoach Restaurant. The simple country selections are good.

Friday, October 30th 2009

Sam got a jump on us in the wee hours of the morning scouting the area for sunrise. The excitement was overwhelming so we dashed out to the park entrance gate like kids going to an amusement park. Our reward was the experience of watching the sunrise over Monument Valley. I captured a nice starburst effect off Merrick Butte. In addition, the light on Mitchell Butte was a lavender color with snow garnishing its base. During sunrise its prudent to look all around for lighting effect opportunities.

Sam adventurously took the SUV onto the park road and we drove until 9am into the park photographing in early warm light. Our time was limited because we had another important stop on the way back to Springdale. So we reluctantly turned back, had breakfast, and departed.

The Navajo Slot Canyons near Page Arizona are world famous with photographers and tourist alike. Never having been there, I had only a vague notion what to expect. We had a narrow window of time to reach this destination. The sun must be positioned in such a way to cast light into the narrow slots or only dreary shadow would remain. This is best from between 11am and 1pm, before or after is poor time to visit the slots. For this same reason, it is of no benefit, photographically, to visit during overcast days.

Thankfully, routes 163 south to Kayenta and route 98 west to Page are fast and featureless. We made good time to Antelope Slots. They are located adjacent to the Navajo power station visible from a distance due to its steam clouds. On advice, we decided to take the path less traveled to the lower slots across the street from the large parking area for the upper slots. The lower slots are less crowded because they are accessible by small very narrow steal ladders that aid visitors as they descend deeper down into the slot. It was like a cave but the ceiling is open. Time is of the essence when arriving at the slots because the sun waits for no one. Because of this, we were in a hurry to get down into the slot canyon.

It is $26 for a 3-hour tour as a photographer. A small casher hut is located at the edge of the parking lot and near the sandy path leading to the obscure entrance. After a short search to spot the entrance ladder, we began. Because of the low lighting conditions and the dynamics of that light, it is imperative that a tripod is used for sharp high quality images with little noise. We helped one another with our cumbersome tripods as we climbed down the ladders.

Once inside I had to stop and take it all in. The feeling is like none other standing on a narrow path with walls of smooth creatively sculpted Navajo sandstone rising up beside me to a sunlit sky. Abstract wavelike patterns etched across the stone, swirling wild shapes sculpted by the master’s hand, left me speechless. We looked at each other in mute reverence. At every turn, the magical charm of the slot yielded more inspiring photography options. Diligently we worked while the sun made the walls glow. Coming face to face with such primordial beauty is an experience every nature lover should have.

The three hours passed by like nothing. Time seemed to stop while we explored the depths and made photographs. It is important to look behind, above, and in every direction as you slowly walk in the slot. As our time expired so too did the suns effects and exiting the slots was no problem since the good light had dimmed within them. Grace kept the wind away but as a precaution, we used a rain sleeve (www.optechusa.com) to protect the camera from dust. Many people from all over the world joined us in our adventure but it was not overly crowded.

On to Page for a late McDonalds lunch then over the Glenn Canyon Bridge and onto Kanab Utah along route 89. We made unexpectedly good time. The eastside of Zion during low light as we arrived was fantastic. The full moon was visible in the darkening sky and we made several photographs of it. We found ourselves back at the bridge looking toward the Watchmen around 6pm. Zion was a welcome sight and almost felt like coming home after a wonderfully exciting quest.

On Ralph’s advice, we decided to try the local diner for dinner. At first we checked on the Driftwood Restaurant but found it a little standoffish. Very close, within walking distance from the Canyon Ranch Motel, is Blondie’s Diner. This small “hole in the wall” is a well-established hometown favorite in Springdale and the whole family pitches in to make it work. Blondie made sure to greet us with cheerfulness that made us feel welcome. Funny plaques are hanging on every square inch of wall about lazy husbands and fishing and chocolate. The food is simple country fare and good. However, the confections are another story all together. Blondie has a gift in pie and cobbler making. I never had such scrumptious berry pie. I could have sat in there and eat a whole pie in one sitting. We resolved to make Blondie’s our dinner selection for the next evening. By the way, another reason for the unequivocal endorsement is that her husband is a life long Pittsburgh Steelers fan, to such an extent, they have a Steelers shrine at home, and before entering you need to say three hail Mary’s.

The night sky was filled with bright stars much more visible in this neck of the woods.

Saturday, October 31st 2009

Our last full day in Zion country began with a relaxed 6am breakfast at Pioneer Café and prepared for a long days work. At this point we had the beginnings of PADD (Photography Attention Deficit Disorder) but found the will to go on deep in our ever loving photography bones. Our cameras cried uncle several days before but gave up hope for a short rest.

It was decided that we try to cover locations overlooked during our first full day in Zion. We made haste to the eastside driving through Mount Carmel Tunnel in the dark. Once we arrived on the eastside, we looked for a good spot to capitalize on sunrise and found it. We spent about an hour in the area then made a quick visit to Checker Board Mesa. After the sun made its way above the horizon, we went back into the park and stopped at the Canyon Overlook trailhead parking area immediately east of the tunnel. This is a stellar trail for early morning photography. The trail leads to a commanding view of Zion Canyon. The light was not good from the overlook itself at this time because it was not even. Half the canyon was in shadow while the other half was dimly illuminated. It is a paradox between the trail and the overlook for best time but 1 or 2pm is best for the overlook. During the short hike, mountain goats could be seen feeding on a distant hillside.

We made our way back to the parking lot, then to lunch at the lodge, and then advanced to the Weeping Rock trailhead. This is an oasis within an oasis. Pure water rains from the rock face with dazzling effect. By grace, we arrived at the perfect time to capitalize on the sunlight striking the water droplets in just the best way to make outstanding images. Again, water protection for the camera should be available. A long ledge protrudes out from the weeping rock where I took refuge and set up the tripod to photograph the bright yellow cottonwoods through the rain like water. The trail splits off into two directions but the weeping rock is found by way of the left trail.

The park road is open to personal vehicles now. We found many pullouts with limited space and several larger parking areas at key locations. The parking area at the lodge was very full. When vehicle accessibility is permitted the traffic inside the park is noticeable. We spent the remainder of the day stopping at different sections exploring for good compositions to photograph. I found several photographers that looked like they knew what they were doing down in the river composing images. Monkey see monkey do.

As the sun grew closer to the horizon, we made one last ditched effort to work the iconic Watchmen location. Our best effort was made but conditions were not favorable. It is much better to have some clouds in the sky for this traditional composition.

Looking forward to visiting Blondie’s we made our way. Blondie’s was crowded and we had to find seating in the back. We placed our orders and the service was impeccable. Blondie’s husband took a break and spent some time talking with us. He was so glad to speak with some real live Pittsburghers. He told us his story about being one of the most loyal Steelers fans west of the Mississippi. I must say the Halloween special of pumpkin cobbler was out of this world good. It was fun to eat at Blondie’s Diner and we decided to gift to her our no longer needed cooler among other items.

Sunday, November 1st 2009

We packed up, had breakfast at the Pioneer where we printed out our boarding pass. Since daylight savings time kicked in we had more time than first thought. We took our time heading back to Las Vegas. A stop we saved for late was the Grafton Ghost town near Rockville Utah off Ridge Road. We went over a small bridge and down a dirt road to find the small village. It is of marginal interest and can be skipped if time is short.

The ride down to Vegas was smooth but the baggage check experience was anything but. It is not permitted to check baggage more then four hours from time of flight we discovered. Ralph and I managed to have our bags checked in violation of policy but Sam did not have such luck. Frustrated, we stewed for about an hour then attempted to beat the system once again. Our rebellious ways paid off and we took a cab to the Vegas strip for lunch. Our cab driver helped calm our frayed nerves and delivered us at the MGM casino with speed. We gave her a big tip as a reward for her steam venting assistance.

The Grand Buffet at the MGM casino was very big. I stuffed myself until my poor stomach made vigorous protest. We then caught another cab back to the airport and processed to the gate. The trip home was uneventful.

Overall, it was a great trip and I know my companions and I had fun. Without Sam’s outstanding driving and Ralph suggesting Blondie’s Diner along with all the joking, I would have had to do it the hard way.

Dolly Sods of West Virginia

Adventure to a Realm Known as Dolly Sods

Saturday, October 3, 2009

In West Virginia, south of Blackwater Falls, in the Appalachian Mountains of Monongahela National Forest is a wilderness area known as the Dolly Sod’s. This special place is found on a mountain top and is home to countless types of flora not found in the lower valley. Vast fields stretch across the mountain top that boast wild cranberry and blueberry that turn brilliant colors during this time of the year. Rich crimson and vermillion with shades of scarlet and maroon blanket the meadows while various other trees and plants embellish those few locations that remain. Great rocks and boulders are found decorating portions of the undergrowth like sentinels keeping watch. A single and narrow nine mile dirt pathway offers accessibility to vehicles. This pathway leads the adventurer back to a location known as Bear Rocks, where I found ample evidence of the resident bear family in the form of scat near the parking area.

My good friend Jana invited me to spend a weekend camping. Since I have never been to this place and love to discover new realms, I decided to accept her offer. Much to my delight, it was both rewarding and fun. Her friend Mary Jo joined in and all three of us enjoyed photographing the Dolly Sods with Jana as our veteran guide.

From Pittsburgh at 5:30am, I traveled the 200 mile journey down 79S, 68E, 7E, 219S, and 32S to Lanesville Road designated as Forest Route 19. Both 219 and 32 are very nice and scenic routes with bucolic farmlands. As the elevation increased the fall colors became more pronounced. Some sections of the mountains were bedazzled with orange, lemon, and ruby but it was about a week early. I had to stop many times to try and capture the beauty on a memory flashcard. After climbing up remorseless roads leading to Dolly Sods, I arrived at 10:30am and found Jana and Mary Jo already well into a day of photography along the dirt pathway. So, the 200 mile trip down, traveling secondary roads half the time, stopping several times to photograph and a sit down breakfast in the small town of Thomas WV, took about five hours.

The adventure was on and Jana made sure to show me all of her favorite locations across the mountain top. Jana is 78 years young and this 48 year old man found it difficult to keep up with her. She has an engaging history that is noteworthy in learning to respect her. To make her biography short, anything you or I have endured is dwarfed by the journey she has traveled in this life. Yet, at the same time, she has been blessed with many joyful and wonderful experiences as well.

Some of the stellar locations she revealed to me were bog trails with countless, unique to the area, flora, including many varieties of fern, moss, wildflowers, and the like. The overlook treats spectators to a vast view of the Appalachian Mountains that neighbor the one we stood upon. Layer after layer fade into the distance like fog. The Bear Rock location opens up into a fantastic view of wide meadows of wild cranberry and blueberry red with the season. Gray rocks rise up above it all looking down upon the place protectively. As they should, Dolly Sods wilderness area should be added to the honored list of National Monuments in an effort to further protect her.

Since the blue bird sky was so clear, we decided that the sunset would not be among the most spectacular that have set upon the mountains and turned in for the evening. Along with photography, cooking is another of Jana’s many talents. Her beef stew was a welcome delight after a good day of trail blazing.

Our camp site is a primitive one with no electricity or any other amenity other than two relatively new outhouses within a short walk and a very sturdy picnic table. As the sun went down so too did the temperature and not long after night fell the wind let its power be ever so mildly known.

Jana provided me with a tent as it has been a long time since I was tent camping and had none to bring. I was also given an air matters to help aid my comfort. We reviewed images on the laptop that was powered by a car battery by a converter. Exhausted, I turned in for the night with as much warm clothing as possible. The jug of water outside the tent said that it did not reach freezing temperatures but you could have sure fooled me. Jana and Mary Jo energetically talked into the evening continuing to review and critic the days work. I crashed like a run away train with loud snoring keeping the wildlife well distant; although, I did hear the sound of sniffing and rummaging just outside my tent. Bear warnings were posted talking about increased bear activity in the area. I became deeply concerned and decided to make additional noise besides my loud snoring and what ever critter it might have been scampered away into a remote section of the woodlands surrounding me. It might have been a dear because not long afterward the distinct snorting sound that they make echoed through the woods.

I brought a flashlight to help navigate my way in the darkness but found no need for it as the bright full moon cast glowing silver highlights over everything. Making it to the outhouse was no problem during the night. Sadly, the glory of the heavens was obscured by the bright dominance of the moonlight.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Early in the morning, Jana and I hiked to a nearby overlook to photograph the sunrise. At first we agreed that the sunrise might not be that grand because the sky lacked clouds. However, as we discussed the finer points of art photography, Mother Nature sent plenty of clouds for us. We meet a team of bird banding folks at the overlook and waited for the sun. A pale fire glow illuminated the top of a distant mountain as we watched. The air was crisp and the wind made the trees dance all around us. We set up our tripods and made prudent adjustments to our cameras and stood ready. Suddenly, at the edge of the mountain top appeared the inferno glow of brilliant orange. The fire cast magical paint onto the clouds in shades of lavender and magenta. Our camera shutters started to sing and the glory continued until a second sunrise took place above the first layers of clouds. Rays of light flashed across the Appalachians like mystical fingers, pointing to select trees or meadows for exclusive attention. Sections of forested mountainside began to glow with color as the suns power warmed the chill air. Such a spectacle is gifted only to those willing to do what is necessary to witness it. And thus began a new day filled with new opportunities and discovery.
Jana prepared a wonderful breakfast of French toast and Mary Jo provided homemade black raspberry jam to season it. We then broke camp, deciding to descend the windy mountain top and regretfully depart from Dolly Sods. The wind provided us with a small challenge while breaking camp but it was not too much trouble. Jana and Mary Jo wrote the book on how to camp. I was surprised when I heard Jana announce to Mary Jo that she was bringing the battery. I have heaved batteries of the same size on several occasions and for her to do so was yet another amazement considering that she has a bad back and a foot that has lost all feeling not to mention her 78 summers.

We took each our own vehicles down the unsympathetic mountain road into the valley and spent the day exploring several different locations nearby. Blackwater Falls is a famous local park that is bejeweled with many spectacular views of its canyon where a great waterfall resides. Elakala waterfalls can also be found down a short trail near the lodge. Jana decided to put her camera away for a moment and soaked in the view at a special canyon overlook. Some places in the high country of West Virginia are in near peak color but most places are early and should be near peak color within 10 days time.
After a picnic lunch we parted ways and I returned home. The fall colors are so close to being perfect that I told myself a return trip in another week would be time well spent. I told Jana she must write a book with the title, “Primitive Camping in Remote Wilderness for those Over 70”. It would be a best seller.