Utah Photography Trip

October 2009

Colorado Plateau Adventure

In this adventure, I was accompanied by fellow photography enthusiasts Sam and Ralph. Our trek took us to five National Parks and a Navajo Tribal Park along with the world famous slot canyons near Page Arizona. We put over 1500 miles on the rental SUV and between the three of us created over 4000 image captures. This blog will disclose useful advice for those hardy enough to follow our example. The topography of the region is both inspiring and otherworldly. Late October into November was the time chosen because the crowds are less, the cottonwood tree is in color; the temperatures are moderate, and off-season travel has other benefits. It might be best to print this blog for easy reading.

Saturday, October 24th 2009

We had an uneventful South West Airline flight to Las Vegas from Pittsburgh, PA. The flight took us above Zion National Park and viewing it from above was a delightful introduction to its magnificence. The parks topography stands tall while surrounded by lowland desert.

Once we retrieved our luggage, we took the shuttle to the rental car facility. Las Vegas has made efforts to control the chaos of rental cars, shuttles, and taxi service so a single facility housed all the rental car options under one roof. Budget rental gave us a free upgrade and waved other additional fees on our behalf. The Toyota four-wheel drive SUV was loyal from start to finish. Budget is recommended for its competitive rates and service.

After a short time, we were off heading to Zion by route 15 north to 9 east. Interstate 15 speed limit is 75mph so the 145-mile trip was made in good time. Route 15 has a short section in Arizona that is very striking. We stopped near Saint George to pick up a cooler and other supplies. We had a fast lunch at Wendy’s. Route 9 east became increasingly picturesque as we approached the gateway town of Springdale. First lesson learned is to have the photography equipment ready for route 9 going to Springdale. As the sun fell low to the horizon, the colors of the monoliths waxed rich burgundy hues. The towering cliffs that surround Springdale light up like a Christmas tree during early evening. Canyon Ranch Motel is a nice and affordable place to stay near Zion. Before settling down for the night, we scouted out locations in the dark and enjoyed dinner at the Spotted Dog Café.

After dinner, we chased the sunset for all it was worth and found a place off route 9 going south. It was the best we could do without planning a specific location, as we should have.


Sunday, October 25th 2009

Early during predawn, we went to our first sunrise location found behind the Zion Park museum where the Towers of the Virgin loom high above. The sunrise set the top of this feature aglow. Many photographers joined us. As the warm light caressed the towers, the grand spectacle became even more entrancing. Since the lower meadow leading up to the tower remained in shadow, it was imperative we use our neutral density graduated filters and the effect is superb. The sublime event is not to be missed while one visits Zion.

After the sunrise, we proceeded to the visitor’s center where we took the mandatory shuttle into the park. Our first shuttle stop was Court of the Patriarchs. These rock monoliths are so named after the biblical patriarchs Isaac, Jacob, and Abraham. As we progressed deeper into the park, it became more apparent why it was named Zion. It truly has a powerful presence unlike any other park that I have been privileged to visit. The cottonwood trees are at about 50% color and should peak sometime during the second week in November. As we explored for the perfect composition I happened across a group of wild turkey strutting around. They approached me without a care.

Onward to Zion Park Lodge where the Emerald Pools trailhead begins. Across the rust colored park road, we followed the path to a bridge crossing the Virgin River. At the bridge, the photographic opportunities began. We looked up and down the river and the compositions could not be ignored; a towering sunlit monolith reflecting in the river with bright yellow cottonwoods framing it on all sides.

The trail leads upward and wild deer roam along its side whimsically. The first of the three pools is interesting and water protection for the camera was needed as rain-like sprinkles cascade off the overhanging cliff face. I took from my backpack a plastic bag and covered the camera. Good boots are helpful to ensure firm footing while traversing the trail. The middle pool is yet further up the steep hillside. We were split up at this point and all worked to regain unity, however that did not occur until we all sat down to lunch at the Zion Park Lodge. The Red Cliff Café is comfortable and has an inviting atmosphere to enjoy a simple lunch. I had the delicious soup and the bourbon pecan pie for dessert.

We then proceeded to the last shuttle stop at the end of the scenic park road; the Temple of Sinawava. It is from here that we hiked the Riverside Walk trail. This easy paved trail leads back to the famous narrows. All along this trail are magnificent sights to appreciate. Many of the trees are in color and great-multicolored monoliths or towers reach high above everyplace we looked. When we arrived at the gateway to the narrows, we could see that the Virgin River in this location has many large rounded stones in its bed. Traversing this pathway into the narrows is relatively challenging and several outfitters offer guidance and proper equipment to do so in Springdale. The Narrows is a large slot canyon were the Virgin River runs through. The round trip is about 2 miles on the Riverside Walk Trail. When boarding the shuttle make sure to note the direction it is going to prevent wasted time.

The day grew late and the light from the sun cast a spell on the Cottonwood leaves backlighting them creating a dazzling effect. We scrambled to take advantage of this wonderful lightshow that seemed to have an increased effect inside the canyon. The red rock walls provided a stunning background for this purpose. What a regal exhibition.

We made haste to the bridge near the Canyon Junction shuttle stop in order to capitalize on the warming light where the Watchmen is best photographed. It is a short walk to the bridge from the shuttle stop. Parking near the bridge is limited and it can become crowded during this time of day. The Watchmen is a soaring peak that is named so because it acts as a sentry before the canyon. When the sun sets low to the horizon it cast a rich side light upon the peak. We discovered after some study that the light is best directly before the sun retreats behind the high cliff to the right, as we looked south. After the sun is gone behind the cliff the cottonwoods along the river are cast in shadow. In late October the time of day for best results is near 5pm. A pathway along the river below leads to other bike trail bridges and the perspective from this area can be unique and well worth the time.

After photographing Zion, we realized that the dynamic light within the canyon, at times, is difficult to work with. The extreme range in shadow and highlight requires some fancy footwork. This can be achieved with graduated neutral density filters or computer software such as High Dynamic Range and Adobe Photoshop. A polarizer is also useful in cutting glare and increasing color contrast but one should be careful not to over do it. Nevertheless, it is best to avoid lighting extremes when ever possible.

Monday, October 26th 2009

We discovered that Pioneer Lodge Café is the only place in Springdale open before dawn. At 6 am we placed our orders. The coffee and fresh baked scones were a welcome treat to start the early day. I recommend the cherry chocolate scone. The café has a large fireplace constructed of petrified wood. It also has internet accommodations for checking e-mail and printing airline-boarding passes.
We made a point to check the time for sunrise and accordingly arrived at another recommended sunrise site just past Canyon Junction going toward Mount Carmel Tunnel. A stone bridge is found along route 9 that presents a good location to photograph the sunrise illuminating the Sentinel across the valley floor. It happened to be a clear starlit night and we made efforts to record star trails while time remained. It seems you need to keep the shutter open several minutes to have any noticeable effect.
The compass let us know where the sun would rise and we awaited it bundled up in gloves, hooded sweat shirts, jackets, and what ever other warm clothing we could find.
Once the light warmed the rocky crags across the autumn colored valley, it became another incredible scene. After a time we decided it was prudent to start our journey to Bryce Canyon National Park along route 9 going to 89 north then to route 12 east. Little did we understand how captivating the topography would be along the way. The tunnel is a marvel of engineering and has huge windows that allow for quick glimpse into the canyon when driving through it. The east side of Zion is brimming in photographically stunning features including the famous Checkerboard Mesa. At the junction of routes, 89 and 12 the Red Rock Canyon vicinity is found. It is like getting the red carpet treatment before entering Bryce Canyon country.
Many richly colored hoodoos and twisted evergreens garnish the location. We had time to stop and photograph this marvel before proceeding. The landscapes along route 12 caused us to progress haltingly to route 63 where Ruby’s Inn is found a few miles from the park entrance. Although we made many photography stops during the trip to Ruby’s Inn, we arrived well ahead of schedule.
We checked into the Inn and found our rooms to be well ordered. We then enjoyed lunch at the restaurant. The buffet offers simple and good country food and helps save time. Several international tour groups shared the place with us during lunch. After lunch, we made haste to the park impatiently anticipating a first look into the famous ampatheater. I made a careless decision to venture down into the canyon at Sunset Point. We later found that Sunrise Point would have been the short way to the Queens Garden. The Navajo trail breaks off to the Queens Garden and onward to Sunrise Point. When descending down from Sunset Point it is a 3-mile journey but only a 0.8-mile journey from Sunrise Point. Not only that, but after ascending to Sunrise Point one needs to hike along the rim trail back to the car at Sunset Point. Nevertheless, it was a rewarding and never to be forgotten experience exploring the floor of the ampatheater. From this vantage point one can see the depth and mammoth proportions of the spectacle like none other. Nobody can fully appreciate Bryce National Park without traversing its floor.
After about 3 hours of hiking down along the floor and going uphill both ways, our bodies did a little complaining, ordering us to bed like a scornful mother. Nonetheless, we doggedly explored other locations in the park by car and did important scouting for morning. Late day light in Bryce can be very good and we took advantage of it. Wild deer roam the flatlands bordering the hoodoo-enchanted gulf. Before crashing for the night, we stopped by Ruby’s again for dinner. Ruby’s Inn is the only sensible choice for accommodations when visiting Bryce Canyon National Park.

Tuesday, October 27th 2009

An unseasonably cold weather front pushed into the region with premeditated malice. With hopefulness, we had a quick breakfast at Ruby’s just as they opened and then proceeded to Sunrise Point. The bitter cold and disagreeable overcast dashed hope that the opulence of the hoodoo adorned chasm would light up as foretold by those blessed to witness it. However, we took a few photographs for the record and decided to continue our journey. The best vantage point to set up a tripod for dawn is along the rim trail between sunrise and sunset points; from this location you can point the camera in both directions that yield more options than the viewing points. Route 12 is one of the most scenic byways in America and during our trek to Capitol Reef National Park discovered it lived up to its reputation. An unending cornucopia of multicolored landscapes is found around every turn. The road is not difficult to drive. Yes, it has many turns and some steep embankments such as the noteworthy “Hog Back”. But relative to Independence Pass in Colorado it’s a synch.
Along route 12 leading up to Torrey we stopped near Boulder Utah and found a small little eatery in the middle of nowhere called Boulder Mesa Restaurant. It’s just off 12 down a short dirt road. The kindly woman running the place treated us to her home cooking. The homemade granola bar she offered proved a wise choice for the road. Off we go into the wild blue yonder again. Just north of Boulder are huge stands of Aspen trees that were well past color but the potential in this location must be incredible during peak color. Along the way we stopped at an apple orchard and purchased some apples from some nice farmers just opening their stand. Apples are a good road food to have and the sooner one gets them the better. These apples seemed to be better than most for some reason. On our approach to Capitol Reef National Park, the cottonwood trees became more pronounced with bright yellow leaves dancing in the chilled wind. Along the park road is a nostalgic homestead with a particularly photogenic barn and fence framed by cottonwood trees. It is important to look at the setting from all angles to find the best perspective. A fast shutter speed helped stop the leaves from blurring.
Onward to Moab we went. Route 24 going to interstate 70 and beyond is open 65-75mph road. We made good time for this reason. These routes, relative to what we have witnessed are of marginal photographic interest. I am sure that the sagebrush carpeting the endless desert would beg to differ. Moab is a much larger more populated gateway community than Springdale or any other town we have seen since Las Vegas. I was concerned that Inca Inn would be a poor lodging accommodation but it was not bad considering the low budget price. We unloaded the Toyota and had dinner at the nearby Mexican restaurant La Hacienda. Nothing to write home about sad to say, we later discovered that the Moab Diner further into town would have been the better choice. The weather did not provide a suitable sunset so we called it a day.

Wednesday, October 28th 2009

A snowstorm was upon us Wednesday morning but Sam insisted upon going and his commendable driving shepherded us to Canyonlands in darkness while the snow fell. It is an hour drive all up hill and across two small neck bridges onto the Island in the Sky district. Our reward was a superb winter wonderland embellishing the vista that we found. At first, our optimism was dashed because the spiteful snow cloaked the overlook view. Yet as we looked around the realization dawned of a blessing in disguise. The snow provided special photographic opportunities. The lord looked down from above and seemed to say; “consider yourselves lucky that you have been allowed this much”. Mesa Arch is a unique Arch found near Green River Overlook where you can use the arch as a frame to view distant canyon features. The snow artfully veiled those features. We decided to double check the overlook one more time before departure and found a whiteout. During our descent, we stopped at Dead Horse Point State Park and found conditions along the way to be very beautiful. The anger of the storm subsided and a clearing allowed for some good photography of this wintry realm.
Our return to lower elevations took us to Arches National Park. We decided to go into Moab for fuel before our day of exploration. Arches is situated upon an elevated plateau and the park road is relatively steep but short to the top. Once on top the park reveals its treasures of huge fins near Park Avenue and numerous arches in the Windows District. Names like Fiery Furnace and Devils Garden are given different features because of the peculiar shapes that the colored stone has taken. It looks as if a violent volcanic event took place here in a forgotten age. Some of the arches are extraordinary in size and one is a double arch so named. We took some time to hike around in the windows district then followed the park road stopping at viewpoints. The sky was not favorable for good photography but we can fix that. The cold wind made us think before deciding on additional hikes.
As the sun set we left the park and had dinner at an Italian pizza place in Moab then called it a day.
Thursday, October 29th 2009

Our early morning breakfast was had at the Moab Diner. We should have patronized this local favorite exclusively, lesson learned. I enjoyed a hardy bacon and eggs with the works and the hot coffee was great.
On our way down 191 going to Monument Valley we encountered an even more difficult time with old man winter. Again, Sam’s heroic driving got us through it. As we traveled south, we noticed an interesting winter wonderland at Recapture Recreational Preserve off route 191. We decided to explore the area much to our collective delight. The lake and surrounding wilderness was blanketed in fresh snow. Wild ducks filled the sky and some cottonwoods remained colorful in the midst of it all. Needless to say, we spent some time creating photographs before heading out. The storm was clearing.
On to Mexican Hat were we found the famous rock formation just off 163 that is the town’s namesake. One of the better dinning experiences up to now was enjoyed at the San Juan Motel Café near the bridge. The Navajo Indians served a great Navajo beef stew with fry bread. Fry bread is a flavorful soft and fluffy flat bread deep-fried. The proprietor told us of the famous move stars that visited the place. The road going to Monument Valley is fast and wide open. As we approached the valley, many interesting landscapes slowed our progress. Multicolored layers of Navajo sandstone formations and countless other topographic features revealed themselves to us. Once on Route 163 going west the proud monoliths and buttes of Monument Valley are seen standing tall above the lowland plain in the distance.
After some time we arrived at Gouldings Motel around 2:00 in the afternoon and checked into our rooms. We confirmed our arrangements for a guided sunset tour then settled in. Reservations for sunset tours should be made no sooner and no later than 3 days from the date. The cost for us was $200 for a private tour free of other tourist.

Gouldings seems to be the place to stay when visiting. Its accommodations are very comfortable; any other option would be unwise. From our rooms we went out onto the balcony to survey the valley. The Mittens and other monuments are in clear view.
It came time for our 4pm tour and our Navajo guide Anna was very nice. We climbed aboard the enclosed van shut the doors and off we went. I explained to Anna our intentions and that we are photography nuts. The tour took us into restricted locations that others are forbidden to go unguided. Our first stop, available only to those so guided, was to an Indian hut where a Navajo woman demonstrated weaving. She allowed photography and the setting proved to be quite appealing to the camera. We discovered, belatedly, that tip cash should be taken care of before entering the area. We should have stopped somewhere beforehand to get small bills but we managed. The park road is moderately rough but the off road travel we experienced was more so. Anna seemed to have a good time with us finding it funny that we were being bounced around a little. She took us to see primeval pictographs and many interesting formations. She directed us to particular perspectives for photographing different scenic views. As the sun grew closer to the horizon, the pigment of the monuments became cinnamon crimson while snow on the ground embellished the view. Time was short and Anna told us it would have been better to get an early start to see more locations in the backcountry with unique perspectives. Now we know. Sunset was very nice and best photographed just inside the fee section of the tribal park at a place facing the Mittens.
After the tour, we said our goodbyes to Anna and tipped her. We then enjoyed dinner at the Gouldings Stagecoach Restaurant. The simple country selections are good.

Friday, October 30th 2009

Sam got a jump on us in the wee hours of the morning scouting the area for sunrise. The excitement was overwhelming so we dashed out to the park entrance gate like kids going to an amusement park. Our reward was the experience of watching the sunrise over Monument Valley. I captured a nice starburst effect off Merrick Butte. In addition, the light on Mitchell Butte was a lavender color with snow garnishing its base. During sunrise its prudent to look all around for lighting effect opportunities.

Sam adventurously took the SUV onto the park road and we drove until 9am into the park photographing in early warm light. Our time was limited because we had another important stop on the way back to Springdale. So we reluctantly turned back, had breakfast, and departed.

The Navajo Slot Canyons near Page Arizona are world famous with photographers and tourist alike. Never having been there, I had only a vague notion what to expect. We had a narrow window of time to reach this destination. The sun must be positioned in such a way to cast light into the narrow slots or only dreary shadow would remain. This is best from between 11am and 1pm, before or after is poor time to visit the slots. For this same reason, it is of no benefit, photographically, to visit during overcast days.

Thankfully, routes 163 south to Kayenta and route 98 west to Page are fast and featureless. We made good time to Antelope Slots. They are located adjacent to the Navajo power station visible from a distance due to its steam clouds. On advice, we decided to take the path less traveled to the lower slots across the street from the large parking area for the upper slots. The lower slots are less crowded because they are accessible by small very narrow steal ladders that aid visitors as they descend deeper down into the slot. It was like a cave but the ceiling is open. Time is of the essence when arriving at the slots because the sun waits for no one. Because of this, we were in a hurry to get down into the slot canyon.

It is $26 for a 3-hour tour as a photographer. A small casher hut is located at the edge of the parking lot and near the sandy path leading to the obscure entrance. After a short search to spot the entrance ladder, we began. Because of the low lighting conditions and the dynamics of that light, it is imperative that a tripod is used for sharp high quality images with little noise. We helped one another with our cumbersome tripods as we climbed down the ladders.

Once inside I had to stop and take it all in. The feeling is like none other standing on a narrow path with walls of smooth creatively sculpted Navajo sandstone rising up beside me to a sunlit sky. Abstract wavelike patterns etched across the stone, swirling wild shapes sculpted by the master’s hand, left me speechless. We looked at each other in mute reverence. At every turn, the magical charm of the slot yielded more inspiring photography options. Diligently we worked while the sun made the walls glow. Coming face to face with such primordial beauty is an experience every nature lover should have.

The three hours passed by like nothing. Time seemed to stop while we explored the depths and made photographs. It is important to look behind, above, and in every direction as you slowly walk in the slot. As our time expired so too did the suns effects and exiting the slots was no problem since the good light had dimmed within them. Grace kept the wind away but as a precaution, we used a rain sleeve (www.optechusa.com) to protect the camera from dust. Many people from all over the world joined us in our adventure but it was not overly crowded.

On to Page for a late McDonalds lunch then over the Glenn Canyon Bridge and onto Kanab Utah along route 89. We made unexpectedly good time. The eastside of Zion during low light as we arrived was fantastic. The full moon was visible in the darkening sky and we made several photographs of it. We found ourselves back at the bridge looking toward the Watchmen around 6pm. Zion was a welcome sight and almost felt like coming home after a wonderfully exciting quest.

On Ralph’s advice, we decided to try the local diner for dinner. At first we checked on the Driftwood Restaurant but found it a little standoffish. Very close, within walking distance from the Canyon Ranch Motel, is Blondie’s Diner. This small “hole in the wall” is a well-established hometown favorite in Springdale and the whole family pitches in to make it work. Blondie made sure to greet us with cheerfulness that made us feel welcome. Funny plaques are hanging on every square inch of wall about lazy husbands and fishing and chocolate. The food is simple country fare and good. However, the confections are another story all together. Blondie has a gift in pie and cobbler making. I never had such scrumptious berry pie. I could have sat in there and eat a whole pie in one sitting. We resolved to make Blondie’s our dinner selection for the next evening. By the way, another reason for the unequivocal endorsement is that her husband is a life long Pittsburgh Steelers fan, to such an extent, they have a Steelers shrine at home, and before entering you need to say three hail Mary’s.

The night sky was filled with bright stars much more visible in this neck of the woods.

Saturday, October 31st 2009

Our last full day in Zion country began with a relaxed 6am breakfast at Pioneer Café and prepared for a long days work. At this point we had the beginnings of PADD (Photography Attention Deficit Disorder) but found the will to go on deep in our ever loving photography bones. Our cameras cried uncle several days before but gave up hope for a short rest.

It was decided that we try to cover locations overlooked during our first full day in Zion. We made haste to the eastside driving through Mount Carmel Tunnel in the dark. Once we arrived on the eastside, we looked for a good spot to capitalize on sunrise and found it. We spent about an hour in the area then made a quick visit to Checker Board Mesa. After the sun made its way above the horizon, we went back into the park and stopped at the Canyon Overlook trailhead parking area immediately east of the tunnel. This is a stellar trail for early morning photography. The trail leads to a commanding view of Zion Canyon. The light was not good from the overlook itself at this time because it was not even. Half the canyon was in shadow while the other half was dimly illuminated. It is a paradox between the trail and the overlook for best time but 1 or 2pm is best for the overlook. During the short hike, mountain goats could be seen feeding on a distant hillside.

We made our way back to the parking lot, then to lunch at the lodge, and then advanced to the Weeping Rock trailhead. This is an oasis within an oasis. Pure water rains from the rock face with dazzling effect. By grace, we arrived at the perfect time to capitalize on the sunlight striking the water droplets in just the best way to make outstanding images. Again, water protection for the camera should be available. A long ledge protrudes out from the weeping rock where I took refuge and set up the tripod to photograph the bright yellow cottonwoods through the rain like water. The trail splits off into two directions but the weeping rock is found by way of the left trail.

The park road is open to personal vehicles now. We found many pullouts with limited space and several larger parking areas at key locations. The parking area at the lodge was very full. When vehicle accessibility is permitted the traffic inside the park is noticeable. We spent the remainder of the day stopping at different sections exploring for good compositions to photograph. I found several photographers that looked like they knew what they were doing down in the river composing images. Monkey see monkey do.

As the sun grew closer to the horizon, we made one last ditched effort to work the iconic Watchmen location. Our best effort was made but conditions were not favorable. It is much better to have some clouds in the sky for this traditional composition.

Looking forward to visiting Blondie’s we made our way. Blondie’s was crowded and we had to find seating in the back. We placed our orders and the service was impeccable. Blondie’s husband took a break and spent some time talking with us. He was so glad to speak with some real live Pittsburghers. He told us his story about being one of the most loyal Steelers fans west of the Mississippi. I must say the Halloween special of pumpkin cobbler was out of this world good. It was fun to eat at Blondie’s Diner and we decided to gift to her our no longer needed cooler among other items.

Sunday, November 1st 2009

We packed up, had breakfast at the Pioneer where we printed out our boarding pass. Since daylight savings time kicked in we had more time than first thought. We took our time heading back to Las Vegas. A stop we saved for late was the Grafton Ghost town near Rockville Utah off Ridge Road. We went over a small bridge and down a dirt road to find the small village. It is of marginal interest and can be skipped if time is short.

The ride down to Vegas was smooth but the baggage check experience was anything but. It is not permitted to check baggage more then four hours from time of flight we discovered. Ralph and I managed to have our bags checked in violation of policy but Sam did not have such luck. Frustrated, we stewed for about an hour then attempted to beat the system once again. Our rebellious ways paid off and we took a cab to the Vegas strip for lunch. Our cab driver helped calm our frayed nerves and delivered us at the MGM casino with speed. We gave her a big tip as a reward for her steam venting assistance.

The Grand Buffet at the MGM casino was very big. I stuffed myself until my poor stomach made vigorous protest. We then caught another cab back to the airport and processed to the gate. The trip home was uneventful.

Overall, it was a great trip and I know my companions and I had fun. Without Sam’s outstanding driving and Ralph suggesting Blondie’s Diner along with all the joking, I would have had to do it the hard way.