Grand Teton and Yellowstone Trip 2010

Grand Teton & Yellowstone & Idaho Trip (2010)

“The winds of natures grace are always blowing. It is for us to raise our sails.” John Muir

Introduction

It was decided to select the last full week of September to visit Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks because this time of year offers outstanding autumn colors and wildlife activity.
These national parks are special gems among the 23 national parks that I have visited. The landscapes are second to none and the abundance of wildlife rivals that of Denali or any of the other parks I have been privileged to visit.
This year an experiment was proposed to enjoy the visit with friends from the Pittsburgh Photography Club. A finer assembly of friends could not be found. The experiment was a great success and all 16 of us had a great time practicing our passion for photography.
The weather was oddly warm and the sun pressed hot during midday. Each and every day presented clear skies and the opportunities to apply our art did not disappoint.

Saturday, September 25th 2010

My United Airways flight into Jackson Hole was uneventful. One should travel with the least encumbrance as possible. The Jackson Hole Airport is in a state of transition growing in size. After obtaining an Avis rental vehicle I was off and running. My plan to go down into Jackson and obtain supplies was thrown out the window as soon as the mighty Teton’s came into view. I got the photography equipment out and hit the park road near Moose Junction. The $25 admission fee was waved for the day.

The aspen and cottonwood scattered across vast fields of sagebrush had various stages of color. Those that had the finest golden colors stood proudly around Oxbow Bend in the northern section of the park along the Snake River. Since my previous visit during the spring of 2005, many more evergreen trees have been killed by the mountain pine bark beetle. About 18% of the trees are afflicted. Research is underway in an attempt to mitigate this appalling development. Other than that single darkness all else is grandeur and majesty beyond anything imaginable. It is difficult to explain and showing a picture to someone is like showing a picture of apple pie to a starving person; inadequate at best.

Although it was dry, the water continued to flow in the rivers, streams, marshes, and lakes. The dry climate requires that you apply lip balm and eye drops while in the area. The thin air of the elevated altitude becomes noticeable upon exertion.

After a dinner at Dornan’s near Moose Junction, I decided to make haste to my accommodations before they gave my room to somebody else. The location of the Snake River Lodge is in Teton Village and about 9 miles south of the Moose Junction park entrance in the southern section of Grand Teton National Park (GTNP). It is about 12 miles north of Jackson. At first this seemed an inconvenience but I soon discovered it a blessing in disguise. Moose Wilson road (MWR) is a pathway between the junction of Moose and route 22. I discovered while going to check in, that this roadway is one of the most active wildlife locations in the park and I dare say in the entire region. I had to fight my way through dozens of big gun photographers and a gauntlet of parked cars to reach the lodge. Several black bear were toiling at the berry harvest along the road and park rangers were making efforts to control the pressing onlookers. I was fearful that a bear working in a tree might fall onto my car as I drove by. Needless to say, I jumped out and tried to take some photographs but it was a circus. The light was muted by then and the bear were in a tangle of berry bush branches. I drove up a little past the congestion and another bear crossed the road in front of me and went up into a berry bush tree. Other people noticed me out snapping pictures and many started down to my newly discovered location. Wildlife photography like this is very difficult and I am sure even more difficult away from the roadways in the wilderness. One needs the correct equipment, skill, and knowledge to achieve quality wildlife images. In addition to this the really great wildlife images are those that have character, high quality, and impact. I noticed that the professionals all lined up away from the crowds with tripods and giant lenses biding their time. They knew that eventually the bear would make its way down to the waters edge and reflect in it. They patiently waited for the bear to make his way down and took the shot with a steady camera and considerable magnification. A novice photographer should not disregard what the professionals teach by example; they should try to mimic their behavior as if in a workshop.

Snake River Lodge is a well appointed accommodation. All that I will say is that Travelocity hooked me up. I would normally never stay in such a place but could not pass up the deal. The $25/day resort fee was waved upon request. The single base camp was decided because I have an affinity for the Teton’s more so than Yellowstone (YSNP) and planned to spend more time in and around Jackson Hole Valley. Each park has its charm but the Teton’s is the greater charm.

Sunday, September 26th 2010

The predawn heavens were filled with silver starlight and bright moonlight. It is a lamentable thing to become dismissive of Gods wonders. Each and every chance to embrace the magic of such spectacle must be treasured while breath is gifted to us.

Traversing MWR during the darkness of predawn is a foreboding undertaking. The considerable likelihood that big game should wonder out onto the dark unlit roadway had me grip the steering wheel more tightly. The bright moonlight assisted matters. A kingly bull elk stood pompously along the roadside as the high beams illuminated him and not long afterward his noble bugle echoed across the woodlands.

My early morning goal was a place called Schwabachers Landing. Upon my arrival I was infuriated to find three ill-bred Neanderthals out in the water on a make shift platform that was unlawfully placed. About 30 other photographers joined me in my anger as the sun shed light upon the classic image. Our collective protest failed to remove them and only afterward did I contemplate the one action that might have succeeded. We should have called the rangers and told them of the crime and that wildlife habitat was currently being contaminated and destroyed by three criminals. 20/20 hindsight never helps anything. The classic sunrise shot could not be captured and so alternative work was done. I would return another day in hopes to capture this rewarding view; the Grand Teton reflecting into a mirror beaver pond based by evergreens and aspen.

Onward to Oxbow Bend I went. The cottonwoods and aspen in this location are well along and become more colorful each day. Mount Moran reflects into a calm bend of the Snake River as do the golden trees along its banks. I explored the area around this iconic location to discover many additional perspectives of Mount Moran. The roadway just above the turnout location leads back to an inlet that very well could offer wildlife opportunities in the early or late hours. Along this road are many compositional offerings of Mount Moran. The brilliant sunlit trees from behind are spectacular.

Pacific Creek Road, not far from Oxbow Bend, is also brimming with vivid aspen and many photographers joined me in exploring this area.

I ventured along the park road to Signal Mountain and climbed up, by car, to the first overlook. I parked and walked to the right for the viewpoint; from here one can see the inspiring mountains at a lofty position. I had to pause and take it all in at that time. One should always take some time to embrace the moment and stop long enough to smell the sagebrush and evergreen. I put the camera down and sat on a fallen tree for a few moments of reflection.

My friends Akshay and Arshi were also in the area, unbeknownst to me. Going back down to meet them at Signal Mountain Lodge Café for lunch, a black bear was showing off by the roadside. I did not get a chance to photograph him but many cars stopped to take a look.

I met Akshay and Arshi for lunch at the Peaks Restaurant and enjoyed a Ruben Sandwich. We enjoyed talking about all that we had experienced so far. They both gave me a full YSNP report. Arshi told of how the bison crossed the road to delay traffic for some time and of the sulfur odor. Sulfur can be a problem when you are traveling on top of the largest active volcano in the world. They could not help but notice my bloodshot eyes and fatigued look. My childlike excitement had me going on all cylinders since getting off the aircraft but my energy was depleted.

As I returned to the south my progress was yet again halting as wildlife along the roadside made its appearance. A prideful bull Elk escorting his ladies across the silver sagebrush pranced long enough for me to capture a few shots of him. I made my way down to Jackson for supplies at Smiths groceries. Dinner was enjoyed at El Abuelito, a highly recommended and local favorite Mexican restaurant along Broadway.

Monday, September 27th 2010

After the fiasco at Schwabachers Landing the morning before, I decided to try again this morning and found the location much more pleasant. Today was a day of exploration in and around the park. I explored up to the south gate of Yellowstone and turned back. The dazzling lemon colors all along the northern sections of the park left me stunned.

My mission was to find uncommon picturesque views of the Teton Range. The common iconic locations are matchless but I would rather try to locate unique points of view as well. The day grew hot as the bright sun bathed the valley. I viewed a large Bison herd in the distance as I traveled.

I made my way down the park road to Lupine Meadows Road. I had no idea what would be discovered once the parking lot was found at its end. The trees simply blaze back in this location as the sunlight filters through them. Big granite rocks colonize the ground to add unique dimension to the views. The mountains tower behind and made me feel like a small insect.

Upon my return to Moose Junction I could not help but notice a large encampment of big gun photographer’s around the bridge area. The Moose family was the attraction. I had to stop and be counted among them. As I approached the question was asked if Elvis had returned from the dead. I joined the vigil but found not long into it that my battery was flashing the red warning light. What to do? I told the professionals standing around and some offered to help with spare batteries but no match was available. All were patiently waiting for the big Bull Moose to stand up and show off for everyone and at a very close range. I had a spare at the car about 200 yards away. The pro’s told me I had better run to get it because I would most probably never again have a close range chance at a Bull Moose like this again. So I jogged to the car, got the spare, staggered back, and as I approached a symphony of shutters chattered all at once. The Bull Moose stood up at that moment and I got several good shots of him. He returned to his bedded position not 5 minutes afterward. The comradery of the art was never so celebrated afterward, with high fives and hand shakes to last the rest of the week- touchdown!

Dinner was enjoyed at nearby Dornan’s Bar & Grill.

Tuesday, September 28th 2010

Considering that I needed light to photograph the abundant wildlife on MWR I decided to get a late start today. The sun was up and I started around 720am. It was a carnival of activity, as expected; the big guns had taken all the parking spaces near the hot spot. What I am about to explain is not overstated. At one small marshy location near the road two cow Moose were in the water feeding, two black bear were in the berry bushes, and a lordly bull Elk emerged from cover to take a gander at the event just up the road, all at the same time and within a 20 yard radius. The rangers had no idea what to do. They threw up their hands and tried to make the best of it. I positioned myself as the pro’s were doing down by the waters edge and got the reflection shot of a bear drinking water. Later a full-sized bear was crossing the road to go down to the water and meandered so close to us that we could have reached out to pet him. His harsh eyes told us we dare not and I backed away with purposeful speed. This is not just a national park but a wildlife safari.

After I had my fill at the safari, I decided to try the barns along Mormon Row and did so. A few prong horned Deer frolicked in nearby auburn grass. Since the proximity is close, I decided to venture down Antelope Flats road and onto Gros Ventre Road. Several miles back is Lower Slide Lake. The turquoise lake was adorned with chartreuse cottonwood trees and autumn blooming wildflowers.

The road becomes more isolated the further back one drives. I decided to stop at Crystal Creek and have my box lunch. The big sky country and hushed solitude brought a spiritual calm to me. I decided to put the camera away and sit near the creek to enjoy lunch. The musical water was glacier cold as it splashed along its predestined path.

On my return trip I stopped again at the lake and watched three beautiful Trumpeter Swans land in the distant waters. An old dilapidated homestead is near the end of the road going back into Jackson Hole and offers a perfect picture window to frame the Grand Teton in. I had to get some height to position the frame well. Down in the small community of Kelly is an interesting old wagon that has fallen apart and offers a good foreground to frame the mountains in. A big Bison herd was marching across the prairie heading to 191 junction.

Going back down MWR, later in the day, a change was noticed. The park rangers blocked off any parking within 1 mile of the wildlife activity zone and had an increased presence. Bear remained very busy in the area as I drove by them working on the berries.

Wednesday, September 29th 2010

Today was the long trek up into Yellowstone. I got a 3:30am start traveling MWR with great care then at Moose got onto 191 north and made my way to meet my good friend Sam at Lake Lodge. At 6:30 in the morning Sam and I made our way to Canyon Falls for a predawn shoot. The lower falls in the canyon are an iconic image of America. The water surge was abundant and the presence of place while standing at Artist Point is enigmatic. We shot many long exposures at different compositional perspectives. Once the sun directed its rays onto the waterfalls it was time to depart and find other wonders.

In our exploration of the park we stopped at celebrated geothermal features such as Artist Paint Pots, Prismatic Spring, Mud Pots, Sulfur Cauldron, and others. Since this is the unsurpassed geothermal site on earth the geysers and other attractions seem infinite. It is remarkable to witness the extremophile life that endures among the boiling waters and acidic steam. The Grand Prismatic Spring is the principal example of this. The brilliant multicolored abstract around the cerulean pool is caused by various types of extreme life that lives around the pools edge.

Our stop at Old Faithful was as expected, faithful, and right on time for the predictable eruption. The new visitor’s center is a very nice addition since my last visit. The western style buffet lunch at Old Faithful Inn was enjoyable. The famous Inn is constructed from enormous timbers of lodge-pole pine and other nearby materials. It flaunts a towering convoluted ceiling with elaborate pathways to guestrooms.

The American Bison is the apex of the parks fauna hierarchy based upon numbers and accessibility to spectators. They march alongside roadways and come very close to people taking pictures. They can be deceptively tolerant of human presence and thus the cause of several goring each year. It was at this time we decided to take a coffee break just to help us stay awake for the good light later in the day. We spotted an Elk and his harem up on a hill and tried to get some shots of them.

Dinner was enjoyed back at Lake Lodge café with the team. We had a great time talking of the days events and plans for the next morning. Kal, Bob, Mary, Frank, Laura, Rose Marie, Sam, and I were all present. The next days plan was to hike Red Rock Trail down to an overlook of lower Canyon Falls.

Thursday, September 30th 2010

With flashlights at the ready we hiked down the 500 foot Red Rock Trail to lower Canyon Falls. Much of the trail is wooden steps leading down to the overlook. Kal helped us apply our art with masterful instruction. Once the sunlight began to shine upon the canyon we made a paced retreat to the Hayden Valley. Fog and steam rolled up from the waters around a Bison Herd. Frost was backlit on each of their powerful shoulders and the Hayden Valley was alive in the coolness of dawn. They marched along the roadside consuming the grass as they went. The sun just began to shine creating superb backlighting. We all stopped, got out, and made the best of the opportunity. The magic of light is best in early morning no matter where one might be.

We all gathered to enjoy a hardy breakfast back at the café. Don’t worry, by this time the good light was diminished and we took advantage of it while we had the opportunity.

At this point our group decidedly went in different directions. As Sam and I progressed along the Madison River we noticed a multitude of tourist pulled off to the roadside. A Hartford Insurance Company Bull Elk was in the river surrounded by his ladies. We stopped and took advantage of the opportunity to capture striking wildlife at relatively close courtiers. The Bull Elk stood fearless protected by ice cold waters.

West Yellowstone is a small gateway town crammed with touristy shops and stores. We proceeded through a small section of Montana and into Idaho. Seeing the potato farmers applying their trade was fascinating. We stopped to talk to a group of workers as they processed the harvest. In addition to this, Mesa Falls along the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway was also interesting to witness. The waterfall is impressive and has an upper and lower tear. The lower tear is distant and inaccessible. We could only capture record shots from a distance in the harsh afternoon light. The road was long and the distant Teton Range grew closer as time drew on. Teton pass from the Idaho side over to Jackson is a 10% grade up and down. I have traversed more formidable roads in my day but never enjoy doing so. God help you if the car breaks go out.

We made it back to Jackson by 6pm and we all meet at the Cadillac Grill adjacent to the Cowboy Bar to share a nice dinner. I had Bison Brisket in savory gravy and several others recommend the scrumptious Alaskan Halibut. Many art photography galleries can be found in town and I stopped to visit a few of them. Some of the work gave me ideas for my next and last day of photography in the region.

Friday, October 1st 2010

Sam and I met at Schwabachers Landing. I was delayed on MWR for obvious reasons. At this point I decided to try one of those energy drinks that are selling so well these days. They really work.

We explored the park road and stopped at various locations all over the valley. Lunch was obtained at Dornan’s deli and they make a great “to order” sandwich. We decided to join the other photographers and wait for the Bull Moose to pose for us near the bridge and so he did after about 45minutes.

The boat shuttle that delivers people to and from Cascade Canyon Trailhead was yet open for its last day of the season. While hiking Jenny Lake trail the bugle of several Elk could be heard. After a 1 hour hike along Jenny Lake trail we returned to the boat launch and took it across to the mountains lakeside base. Reports from others told of how the waters of Hidden Falls were not flowing and that the cascade was flowing at a minimal rate. We decided to return rather than huff it up the mountain not to mention that the last shuttle would depart in a half hour.

I was dead on my feet at this point so I made my retreat to the lodge and agreed to meet Sam at his cabin in Jackson later on. At the cabins we reviewed the days events with the crew then had a late dinner at El Abuelito.

Saturday, October 2nd 2010

After a week spent like this I am ready for any fate. It is a heartrending day to depart God’s country. I somberly packed up everything, filled the rental with gas, and made way to the airport. The return flight was uneventful. I am presently suffering from Post Traumatic Grand Teton Disorder. The Doctor said it will pass after a few weeks. This scribbling, no matter how industriously written, offers only hints to persuade those that read them to feast at natures table.