2011 North West Adventure
Saturday, July 23rd 2011
After an ill-favored commute to Seattle and a less than user friendly Budget rental car service the GPS guided the way to my favorite cousin’s home in Tacoma but not before stopping for dinner at the famous Southern Kitchen restaurant in Tacoma. This foodies Mecca operates like a diner and offers delectable treats more commonly found in southern states. The fried chicken was great but the home cooked macaroni and cheese was second to none and the peach cobbler should be classified as a controlled substance.
1719 6th Ave Tacoma, WA www.southernkitchen-tacoma.com

Curt and Roxane found a noble home that gave me the feeling of being in the company of wisdom. It is a grand historic home build in the late 19th century. Roxane has created a master art gallery within. One is treated to a view of Puget Sound from its lofty heights where there is a quite balcony to sit in peace. This small location is like a meditation alcove.
I met my second cousin Paul for the first time and we all had a fun time at the local Pub.

Sunday, July 24th 2011

Today we enjoyed a nice stroll along the shoreline of Point Defiance Park and toured the rose garden then indulged in a wonderful lunch at Anthony’s dockside. The cook was generous with crab in the seafood linguini.
Later in the day, another loved one and I also visited not far away. Afterward Curt, Roxane, Paul, and I spent quality time together. Roxane’s cooking was an outstanding dinner treat.

Monday, July 25th 2011

The Ford Fusion at the beginning had 935 miles on it.

Early during predawn, I left for adventure. I selected less traveled roads as my pathway to the mountains. The welcome temperatures of 70s during the day and 50s during the evenings embraced me each and every day during the adventure. The mountaintops were even more refreshing. Route 18 from Tacoma east to route 203-north lead me to my first stop at Snoquaimie Falls but the fog and mist obscured the spectacle and the lower viewpoint was closed. The water flow all over the region is thunderous from heavy snowmelt. I then took route 9 north to Mount Baker Highway route 542. The trek to Mount Baker is lengthy. Along the way is Nooksack Falls. The water gushed over the edge in a deluge of aquatic power. The viewpoint is too close and fenced in. It was difficult to make an acceptable image under the circumstance. I did the best my skills would allow. The road to the mountain is embellished with all manner of wildflowers, Foxglove, Lupine, Shasta daisy, Fireweed, Indian paintbrush, Columbine, and Mountain lily. This startling wildflower display is omnipresent throughout the region. Once at the picture lake location, fate denied me the opportunity to make a good image of Mount Shuksan. The Mountain is a grand snow covered spectacle. I took a record shot just to say I did it and began my return trip down to route 20. The Mount Shuksan picture lake shot is not worth the trek in if conditions are not perfect. Setting up for the preferable lower afternoon light is challenging in that one would return to base in darkness along the mountain pass road. A place called the “Eatery” near Glacier at Skagit River Resort on route 542 was my lunch stop and the reward was wild morel mushroom soup.
The next stop was Cascadian Farms near Rockport. The 28-acre farm is nestled along route 20 in the foothills of the Cascade Mountain Range. Its roadside store offered, hot out of the oven, blueberry muffins that I just could not turn away from. A perpetual drizzle ushered me along route 20 going to the Cascades. I made the most of it by stopping at several roadside country stores. Some had gas, some had pay phones, and only a few offered anything special to eat. Upon arrival at the Buffalo Inn in Marblemount, I decided to take my rest. The Buffalo Inn is clean and basic and seems to be the only reasonable lodging near to the parks western entrance. The Buffalo Restaurant across the road is costly for unknown reasons and I decided not to patronize it. Gloomy weather settled into the region and I took my rest.

Tuesday, July 26th 2011

North Cascade National Park is an underdeveloped national park with few amenities. The park is also shared with the regional electric power company and electrical towers vandalize its mountains along with hydroelectric damns creating its lakes. The eastern section of the park does not share the western side’s regrettable status. The grandeur of the mountains, look down with a narrow gaze in displeasure at the revolting collar strangling them. Heavy early morning mist vales the wilderness.

Ladder Creek Falls near Gorge damn was closed for renovation much to my chagrin as it is one of the key attractions on the western side. Unrelenting logging trucks parade through the mountains.

Evergreen trees blanket the region with a lush coat everywhere I look and the clean scent of pine fills the cool air. The luxuriant forest gives one the feeling of what it must have been like in primeval times.

Huge banana slugs, about six inches long, slither among the ground cover. Torrents of snowmelt rush down the river. It is a whitewater rafters dream but also dangerous; drift to the left or to the right at your peril.

Well, the day was not a total disaster. The weather cleared just enough for me to soak in a glimpse of the eastside mountains. I was able to practice my art on a plethora of waterfalls and wildflowers. Colorful Larkspur grows in profusion along the eastside of route 20 going to Winthrop. I had to pull off to the roadside and make some images. I noticed in my travel that not many pullovers are available. This is something that should be remedied by the park service.
I stopped in Winthrop to enjoy lunch at Three Finger Jacks Saloon. Winthrop is a tourist theme town set in an old west style. Route 153 from Winthrop onto route 97 south should be designated a national scenic byway. The rolling hills and mountains along both sides of the road are spectacular; so much so that I almost smashed into a family of mountain goats strolling across the road. Route 97 is the apple orchard capital of the world; I never saw so many apple trees in all my born days. It is the Napa Valley of Apple trees. Roadside fruit stands can be found every few hundred yards. The Methow Valley is very scenic and well worth the drive. However, the opportunity for good compositions in photography would require more time to explore.
As I progressed, the northern section of the Wanatchee National Forest, route 97 south, has much evergreen kill off from that nasty bug. Hope is that this plague will not spread to other surrounding lush green forest.

At this point in my adventure, I decided it was too much to try and make it to Mount Rainer and looked for a layover in Ellensburg. I found a dubious place called the Rainbow Motel. I stopped and booked my $52/night room. The room was interesting but I managed to get a good night sleep without any encounters of a third kind. Up the street at 201 West University Way was the El Caporal Mexican restaurant. The dinner was basic but good. Ellensburg has three or more cheap motels and the one I should have booked would be the Thunderbird Motel close to city center.

It was an arduous but also spectacular trek from the Cascades to Ellensburg so I took my rest.

Wednesday, July 27th 2011

All of route 12 going to Mount Rainer is like a national park. It was very impressive. Clear creek waterfalls along the way are reminiscent of lower Yellowstone Falls. It was a cool morning going to the volcano. The fee to enter the park is $15.00. There remains six feet of snow at Paradise but the parking lot is open. The wildflowers along the way up were nothing less than brilliant. Indian paintbrush and countless unknown flowers stun drivers with a kaleidoscope of color. Snowmelt cascades surge down the mountainside feeding swollen rivers below. I noticed that numerous loan bicyclists and cross-country hikers tour the parklands and many are young women. I drove back down the mountain to Packwood and enjoyed lunch at the best Burger joint in the village.

As I explored the park, I discovered a cascade with a convenient parking area nearby. I found the cascade to be all we photographers dream about. Climbing down among the moss-covered rocks was dangerous but the payoff was well worth the risk. Close by a wildflower that I have been curious about was found. The noble wildflower Beargrass was proudly exhibiting its blossoms along the stream. I made several images then decided to check if they had a scent and to my surprise, the faint aroma of sweet rose caressed my olfactory receptors. The flower is tall off the ground with a globular white tassel at its top. Later I walked the trail of the patriarchs where huge cedar trees tower high above among moss covered timbers and ferns. A splashing stream flows through the grove.

Forest routes going south to Columbia River Gorge from Randle snake through primordial forest cloaked in moss and fern. Foxgloves wave in the cool winds beside the road.

Once in Cascade Locks, I crossed over into Oregon on the Bridge of the Gods. The community of Cascade Locks is a small native river town. I should have lodged at the Bridge of the Gods Motel since it was a better-looking establishment but I already booked a room at the Columbia Gorge Motel. Sometimes it is better to wing the lodging on trips such as this one; it allows more freedom and is not much of a risk.

Thursday, July 28th 2011

Very early, I began my Columbia River Gorge- waterfall photography- workshop- practice run. Since Multnomah Falls is the grand daddy of them all I went straight to it. I had the park to myself and captured many photographs. I noticed that the day looked to be sunny so my working window was limited in the early hours. This is because bright-unfiltered sunlight reflects harshly off the white waters of the falls and thus renders them un-photographable. I moved on to many other falls along the gorge; nine in all. I then stopped at Oneonta trailhead. Parking is limited at this spot. The reason it intrigued me was it is a mysterious narrow gorge within a gorge with high walls on both sides leading back into an enchanting moss blanketed unknown. In order to take the trail I needed something I lacked, a pair of water shoes. One must climb over a logjam at the gateway of the narrow slot. I climbed over with care lugging the baby (camera) with me. After going over to the other side of the log jam deep water blocked my way. Perplexed and disappointed I turned back unable to proceed.
The day was yet young and not being one to waste precious time, I decided to take the long road to Mount Hood. The path taken was route 35 south from Hood River to 26 west and back north to Battleground Washington. It was a long adventurous ramble but well worth it. It was a clear day and the mountain came into view in short order, its grand snow covered ramparts looked magical across the forestlands.

I stopped along route 26 in Zigzag Oregon to have lunch at the Zigzag Inn. How could I pass such a place by? The spaghetti lunch was surprisingly good. I was stuffed, but could not resist ordering the mountain berry cobbler. All of this driving and hiking makes one crave carbohydrates.

I drove up the road leading to the base of Mount Hood where a sky resort is located. It seemed to be springtime in the fields as small ground hugging wildflowers were in full bloom everywhere. I hiked all over looking for good compositions to fill the foreground with the wildflowers and have the mountain as the background. It was not easy to do.

Along route 26 are many groves of cherry trees and other fruit trees as far as the eye could see. The GPS lead me to Battleground Washington without any problems. The Best Western in Battleground is a far cry better than previous lodging. I searched for a suitable dinner establishment and decided to try out the local Chinese restaurant named Silver Dragon on West Main Street. My sixth sense gift at finding good places to eat did not let me down. The traditional Chopped Suey was great and comes recommended.

Friday, July 29th, 2011

My plan today is to make it back to Tacoma before nightfall. I had to make the most of such a pleasant sunny day so it was off to Mount Saint Helens National Volcanic Monument. The road back into the Monument area was long and hard but worth the trip. I traversed up a road that leads to the Volcanic Gorge area. Once there, I parked the car, purchased a day pass for $5.00, and started my hike into the gorge. A colossal lava flow worked a path into the gorge and a cerulean cascade surges through it. Volcanic rock is all over the ground and large mounds of it tower above hikers along the path. I was very happy to see this place. A suspension bridge leads one above the gorge. Looking down I saw the waters etch their course through the volcanic stone. I picked up a few small fragments of volcanic stone to keep, knowing that at one time they lived within the heart of the earth.

On the way back to Tacoma, I discovered in Woodland the Old Oak Tree restaurant and stopped for lunch. The Halibut fish and chips were scrumptious. They are famous for their cinnamon rolls.

Upon my return, family gathered at the table and enjoyed an outdoor patio dinner. If Tacoma ever has a Cherry Pie contest Roxane will win a first place ribbon.

Saturday, July 30th 2011

Upon returning the rental car, the agent wrote 1415 miles added to the original 935. That is an average of 283/day. It is not preferable to drive so laboriously during a vacation but without wings how else should one see such spectacular countryside?

The return flight home was uneventful.

The End

Utah Photography Trip

October 2009

Colorado Plateau Adventure

In this adventure, I was accompanied by fellow photography enthusiasts Sam and Ralph. Our trek took us to five National Parks and a Navajo Tribal Park along with the world famous slot canyons near Page Arizona. We put over 1500 miles on the rental SUV and between the three of us created over 4000 image captures. This blog will disclose useful advice for those hardy enough to follow our example. The topography of the region is both inspiring and otherworldly. Late October into November was the time chosen because the crowds are less, the cottonwood tree is in color; the temperatures are moderate, and off-season travel has other benefits. It might be best to print this blog for easy reading.

Saturday, October 24th 2009

We had an uneventful South West Airline flight to Las Vegas from Pittsburgh, PA. The flight took us above Zion National Park and viewing it from above was a delightful introduction to its magnificence. The parks topography stands tall while surrounded by lowland desert.

Once we retrieved our luggage, we took the shuttle to the rental car facility. Las Vegas has made efforts to control the chaos of rental cars, shuttles, and taxi service so a single facility housed all the rental car options under one roof. Budget rental gave us a free upgrade and waved other additional fees on our behalf. The Toyota four-wheel drive SUV was loyal from start to finish. Budget is recommended for its competitive rates and service.

After a short time, we were off heading to Zion by route 15 north to 9 east. Interstate 15 speed limit is 75mph so the 145-mile trip was made in good time. Route 15 has a short section in Arizona that is very striking. We stopped near Saint George to pick up a cooler and other supplies. We had a fast lunch at Wendy’s. Route 9 east became increasingly picturesque as we approached the gateway town of Springdale. First lesson learned is to have the photography equipment ready for route 9 going to Springdale. As the sun fell low to the horizon, the colors of the monoliths waxed rich burgundy hues. The towering cliffs that surround Springdale light up like a Christmas tree during early evening. Canyon Ranch Motel is a nice and affordable place to stay near Zion. Before settling down for the night, we scouted out locations in the dark and enjoyed dinner at the Spotted Dog Café.

After dinner, we chased the sunset for all it was worth and found a place off route 9 going south. It was the best we could do without planning a specific location, as we should have.


Sunday, October 25th 2009

Early during predawn, we went to our first sunrise location found behind the Zion Park museum where the Towers of the Virgin loom high above. The sunrise set the top of this feature aglow. Many photographers joined us. As the warm light caressed the towers, the grand spectacle became even more entrancing. Since the lower meadow leading up to the tower remained in shadow, it was imperative we use our neutral density graduated filters and the effect is superb. The sublime event is not to be missed while one visits Zion.

After the sunrise, we proceeded to the visitor’s center where we took the mandatory shuttle into the park. Our first shuttle stop was Court of the Patriarchs. These rock monoliths are so named after the biblical patriarchs Isaac, Jacob, and Abraham. As we progressed deeper into the park, it became more apparent why it was named Zion. It truly has a powerful presence unlike any other park that I have been privileged to visit. The cottonwood trees are at about 50% color and should peak sometime during the second week in November. As we explored for the perfect composition I happened across a group of wild turkey strutting around. They approached me without a care.

Onward to Zion Park Lodge where the Emerald Pools trailhead begins. Across the rust colored park road, we followed the path to a bridge crossing the Virgin River. At the bridge, the photographic opportunities began. We looked up and down the river and the compositions could not be ignored; a towering sunlit monolith reflecting in the river with bright yellow cottonwoods framing it on all sides.

The trail leads upward and wild deer roam along its side whimsically. The first of the three pools is interesting and water protection for the camera was needed as rain-like sprinkles cascade off the overhanging cliff face. I took from my backpack a plastic bag and covered the camera. Good boots are helpful to ensure firm footing while traversing the trail. The middle pool is yet further up the steep hillside. We were split up at this point and all worked to regain unity, however that did not occur until we all sat down to lunch at the Zion Park Lodge. The Red Cliff Café is comfortable and has an inviting atmosphere to enjoy a simple lunch. I had the delicious soup and the bourbon pecan pie for dessert.

We then proceeded to the last shuttle stop at the end of the scenic park road; the Temple of Sinawava. It is from here that we hiked the Riverside Walk trail. This easy paved trail leads back to the famous narrows. All along this trail are magnificent sights to appreciate. Many of the trees are in color and great-multicolored monoliths or towers reach high above everyplace we looked. When we arrived at the gateway to the narrows, we could see that the Virgin River in this location has many large rounded stones in its bed. Traversing this pathway into the narrows is relatively challenging and several outfitters offer guidance and proper equipment to do so in Springdale. The Narrows is a large slot canyon were the Virgin River runs through. The round trip is about 2 miles on the Riverside Walk Trail. When boarding the shuttle make sure to note the direction it is going to prevent wasted time.

The day grew late and the light from the sun cast a spell on the Cottonwood leaves backlighting them creating a dazzling effect. We scrambled to take advantage of this wonderful lightshow that seemed to have an increased effect inside the canyon. The red rock walls provided a stunning background for this purpose. What a regal exhibition.

We made haste to the bridge near the Canyon Junction shuttle stop in order to capitalize on the warming light where the Watchmen is best photographed. It is a short walk to the bridge from the shuttle stop. Parking near the bridge is limited and it can become crowded during this time of day. The Watchmen is a soaring peak that is named so because it acts as a sentry before the canyon. When the sun sets low to the horizon it cast a rich side light upon the peak. We discovered after some study that the light is best directly before the sun retreats behind the high cliff to the right, as we looked south. After the sun is gone behind the cliff the cottonwoods along the river are cast in shadow. In late October the time of day for best results is near 5pm. A pathway along the river below leads to other bike trail bridges and the perspective from this area can be unique and well worth the time.

After photographing Zion, we realized that the dynamic light within the canyon, at times, is difficult to work with. The extreme range in shadow and highlight requires some fancy footwork. This can be achieved with graduated neutral density filters or computer software such as High Dynamic Range and Adobe Photoshop. A polarizer is also useful in cutting glare and increasing color contrast but one should be careful not to over do it. Nevertheless, it is best to avoid lighting extremes when ever possible.

Monday, October 26th 2009

We discovered that Pioneer Lodge Café is the only place in Springdale open before dawn. At 6 am we placed our orders. The coffee and fresh baked scones were a welcome treat to start the early day. I recommend the cherry chocolate scone. The café has a large fireplace constructed of petrified wood. It also has internet accommodations for checking e-mail and printing airline-boarding passes.
We made a point to check the time for sunrise and accordingly arrived at another recommended sunrise site just past Canyon Junction going toward Mount Carmel Tunnel. A stone bridge is found along route 9 that presents a good location to photograph the sunrise illuminating the Sentinel across the valley floor. It happened to be a clear starlit night and we made efforts to record star trails while time remained. It seems you need to keep the shutter open several minutes to have any noticeable effect.
The compass let us know where the sun would rise and we awaited it bundled up in gloves, hooded sweat shirts, jackets, and what ever other warm clothing we could find.
Once the light warmed the rocky crags across the autumn colored valley, it became another incredible scene. After a time we decided it was prudent to start our journey to Bryce Canyon National Park along route 9 going to 89 north then to route 12 east. Little did we understand how captivating the topography would be along the way. The tunnel is a marvel of engineering and has huge windows that allow for quick glimpse into the canyon when driving through it. The east side of Zion is brimming in photographically stunning features including the famous Checkerboard Mesa. At the junction of routes, 89 and 12 the Red Rock Canyon vicinity is found. It is like getting the red carpet treatment before entering Bryce Canyon country.
Many richly colored hoodoos and twisted evergreens garnish the location. We had time to stop and photograph this marvel before proceeding. The landscapes along route 12 caused us to progress haltingly to route 63 where Ruby’s Inn is found a few miles from the park entrance. Although we made many photography stops during the trip to Ruby’s Inn, we arrived well ahead of schedule.
We checked into the Inn and found our rooms to be well ordered. We then enjoyed lunch at the restaurant. The buffet offers simple and good country food and helps save time. Several international tour groups shared the place with us during lunch. After lunch, we made haste to the park impatiently anticipating a first look into the famous ampatheater. I made a careless decision to venture down into the canyon at Sunset Point. We later found that Sunrise Point would have been the short way to the Queens Garden. The Navajo trail breaks off to the Queens Garden and onward to Sunrise Point. When descending down from Sunset Point it is a 3-mile journey but only a 0.8-mile journey from Sunrise Point. Not only that, but after ascending to Sunrise Point one needs to hike along the rim trail back to the car at Sunset Point. Nevertheless, it was a rewarding and never to be forgotten experience exploring the floor of the ampatheater. From this vantage point one can see the depth and mammoth proportions of the spectacle like none other. Nobody can fully appreciate Bryce National Park without traversing its floor.
After about 3 hours of hiking down along the floor and going uphill both ways, our bodies did a little complaining, ordering us to bed like a scornful mother. Nonetheless, we doggedly explored other locations in the park by car and did important scouting for morning. Late day light in Bryce can be very good and we took advantage of it. Wild deer roam the flatlands bordering the hoodoo-enchanted gulf. Before crashing for the night, we stopped by Ruby’s again for dinner. Ruby’s Inn is the only sensible choice for accommodations when visiting Bryce Canyon National Park.

Tuesday, October 27th 2009

An unseasonably cold weather front pushed into the region with premeditated malice. With hopefulness, we had a quick breakfast at Ruby’s just as they opened and then proceeded to Sunrise Point. The bitter cold and disagreeable overcast dashed hope that the opulence of the hoodoo adorned chasm would light up as foretold by those blessed to witness it. However, we took a few photographs for the record and decided to continue our journey. The best vantage point to set up a tripod for dawn is along the rim trail between sunrise and sunset points; from this location you can point the camera in both directions that yield more options than the viewing points. Route 12 is one of the most scenic byways in America and during our trek to Capitol Reef National Park discovered it lived up to its reputation. An unending cornucopia of multicolored landscapes is found around every turn. The road is not difficult to drive. Yes, it has many turns and some steep embankments such as the noteworthy “Hog Back”. But relative to Independence Pass in Colorado it’s a synch.
Along route 12 leading up to Torrey we stopped near Boulder Utah and found a small little eatery in the middle of nowhere called Boulder Mesa Restaurant. It’s just off 12 down a short dirt road. The kindly woman running the place treated us to her home cooking. The homemade granola bar she offered proved a wise choice for the road. Off we go into the wild blue yonder again. Just north of Boulder are huge stands of Aspen trees that were well past color but the potential in this location must be incredible during peak color. Along the way we stopped at an apple orchard and purchased some apples from some nice farmers just opening their stand. Apples are a good road food to have and the sooner one gets them the better. These apples seemed to be better than most for some reason. On our approach to Capitol Reef National Park, the cottonwood trees became more pronounced with bright yellow leaves dancing in the chilled wind. Along the park road is a nostalgic homestead with a particularly photogenic barn and fence framed by cottonwood trees. It is important to look at the setting from all angles to find the best perspective. A fast shutter speed helped stop the leaves from blurring.
Onward to Moab we went. Route 24 going to interstate 70 and beyond is open 65-75mph road. We made good time for this reason. These routes, relative to what we have witnessed are of marginal photographic interest. I am sure that the sagebrush carpeting the endless desert would beg to differ. Moab is a much larger more populated gateway community than Springdale or any other town we have seen since Las Vegas. I was concerned that Inca Inn would be a poor lodging accommodation but it was not bad considering the low budget price. We unloaded the Toyota and had dinner at the nearby Mexican restaurant La Hacienda. Nothing to write home about sad to say, we later discovered that the Moab Diner further into town would have been the better choice. The weather did not provide a suitable sunset so we called it a day.

Wednesday, October 28th 2009

A snowstorm was upon us Wednesday morning but Sam insisted upon going and his commendable driving shepherded us to Canyonlands in darkness while the snow fell. It is an hour drive all up hill and across two small neck bridges onto the Island in the Sky district. Our reward was a superb winter wonderland embellishing the vista that we found. At first, our optimism was dashed because the spiteful snow cloaked the overlook view. Yet as we looked around the realization dawned of a blessing in disguise. The snow provided special photographic opportunities. The lord looked down from above and seemed to say; “consider yourselves lucky that you have been allowed this much”. Mesa Arch is a unique Arch found near Green River Overlook where you can use the arch as a frame to view distant canyon features. The snow artfully veiled those features. We decided to double check the overlook one more time before departure and found a whiteout. During our descent, we stopped at Dead Horse Point State Park and found conditions along the way to be very beautiful. The anger of the storm subsided and a clearing allowed for some good photography of this wintry realm.
Our return to lower elevations took us to Arches National Park. We decided to go into Moab for fuel before our day of exploration. Arches is situated upon an elevated plateau and the park road is relatively steep but short to the top. Once on top the park reveals its treasures of huge fins near Park Avenue and numerous arches in the Windows District. Names like Fiery Furnace and Devils Garden are given different features because of the peculiar shapes that the colored stone has taken. It looks as if a violent volcanic event took place here in a forgotten age. Some of the arches are extraordinary in size and one is a double arch so named. We took some time to hike around in the windows district then followed the park road stopping at viewpoints. The sky was not favorable for good photography but we can fix that. The cold wind made us think before deciding on additional hikes.
As the sun set we left the park and had dinner at an Italian pizza place in Moab then called it a day.
Thursday, October 29th 2009

Our early morning breakfast was had at the Moab Diner. We should have patronized this local favorite exclusively, lesson learned. I enjoyed a hardy bacon and eggs with the works and the hot coffee was great.
On our way down 191 going to Monument Valley we encountered an even more difficult time with old man winter. Again, Sam’s heroic driving got us through it. As we traveled south, we noticed an interesting winter wonderland at Recapture Recreational Preserve off route 191. We decided to explore the area much to our collective delight. The lake and surrounding wilderness was blanketed in fresh snow. Wild ducks filled the sky and some cottonwoods remained colorful in the midst of it all. Needless to say, we spent some time creating photographs before heading out. The storm was clearing.
On to Mexican Hat were we found the famous rock formation just off 163 that is the town’s namesake. One of the better dinning experiences up to now was enjoyed at the San Juan Motel Café near the bridge. The Navajo Indians served a great Navajo beef stew with fry bread. Fry bread is a flavorful soft and fluffy flat bread deep-fried. The proprietor told us of the famous move stars that visited the place. The road going to Monument Valley is fast and wide open. As we approached the valley, many interesting landscapes slowed our progress. Multicolored layers of Navajo sandstone formations and countless other topographic features revealed themselves to us. Once on Route 163 going west the proud monoliths and buttes of Monument Valley are seen standing tall above the lowland plain in the distance.
After some time we arrived at Gouldings Motel around 2:00 in the afternoon and checked into our rooms. We confirmed our arrangements for a guided sunset tour then settled in. Reservations for sunset tours should be made no sooner and no later than 3 days from the date. The cost for us was $200 for a private tour free of other tourist.

Gouldings seems to be the place to stay when visiting. Its accommodations are very comfortable; any other option would be unwise. From our rooms we went out onto the balcony to survey the valley. The Mittens and other monuments are in clear view.
It came time for our 4pm tour and our Navajo guide Anna was very nice. We climbed aboard the enclosed van shut the doors and off we went. I explained to Anna our intentions and that we are photography nuts. The tour took us into restricted locations that others are forbidden to go unguided. Our first stop, available only to those so guided, was to an Indian hut where a Navajo woman demonstrated weaving. She allowed photography and the setting proved to be quite appealing to the camera. We discovered, belatedly, that tip cash should be taken care of before entering the area. We should have stopped somewhere beforehand to get small bills but we managed. The park road is moderately rough but the off road travel we experienced was more so. Anna seemed to have a good time with us finding it funny that we were being bounced around a little. She took us to see primeval pictographs and many interesting formations. She directed us to particular perspectives for photographing different scenic views. As the sun grew closer to the horizon, the pigment of the monuments became cinnamon crimson while snow on the ground embellished the view. Time was short and Anna told us it would have been better to get an early start to see more locations in the backcountry with unique perspectives. Now we know. Sunset was very nice and best photographed just inside the fee section of the tribal park at a place facing the Mittens.
After the tour, we said our goodbyes to Anna and tipped her. We then enjoyed dinner at the Gouldings Stagecoach Restaurant. The simple country selections are good.

Friday, October 30th 2009

Sam got a jump on us in the wee hours of the morning scouting the area for sunrise. The excitement was overwhelming so we dashed out to the park entrance gate like kids going to an amusement park. Our reward was the experience of watching the sunrise over Monument Valley. I captured a nice starburst effect off Merrick Butte. In addition, the light on Mitchell Butte was a lavender color with snow garnishing its base. During sunrise its prudent to look all around for lighting effect opportunities.

Sam adventurously took the SUV onto the park road and we drove until 9am into the park photographing in early warm light. Our time was limited because we had another important stop on the way back to Springdale. So we reluctantly turned back, had breakfast, and departed.

The Navajo Slot Canyons near Page Arizona are world famous with photographers and tourist alike. Never having been there, I had only a vague notion what to expect. We had a narrow window of time to reach this destination. The sun must be positioned in such a way to cast light into the narrow slots or only dreary shadow would remain. This is best from between 11am and 1pm, before or after is poor time to visit the slots. For this same reason, it is of no benefit, photographically, to visit during overcast days.

Thankfully, routes 163 south to Kayenta and route 98 west to Page are fast and featureless. We made good time to Antelope Slots. They are located adjacent to the Navajo power station visible from a distance due to its steam clouds. On advice, we decided to take the path less traveled to the lower slots across the street from the large parking area for the upper slots. The lower slots are less crowded because they are accessible by small very narrow steal ladders that aid visitors as they descend deeper down into the slot. It was like a cave but the ceiling is open. Time is of the essence when arriving at the slots because the sun waits for no one. Because of this, we were in a hurry to get down into the slot canyon.

It is $26 for a 3-hour tour as a photographer. A small casher hut is located at the edge of the parking lot and near the sandy path leading to the obscure entrance. After a short search to spot the entrance ladder, we began. Because of the low lighting conditions and the dynamics of that light, it is imperative that a tripod is used for sharp high quality images with little noise. We helped one another with our cumbersome tripods as we climbed down the ladders.

Once inside I had to stop and take it all in. The feeling is like none other standing on a narrow path with walls of smooth creatively sculpted Navajo sandstone rising up beside me to a sunlit sky. Abstract wavelike patterns etched across the stone, swirling wild shapes sculpted by the master’s hand, left me speechless. We looked at each other in mute reverence. At every turn, the magical charm of the slot yielded more inspiring photography options. Diligently we worked while the sun made the walls glow. Coming face to face with such primordial beauty is an experience every nature lover should have.

The three hours passed by like nothing. Time seemed to stop while we explored the depths and made photographs. It is important to look behind, above, and in every direction as you slowly walk in the slot. As our time expired so too did the suns effects and exiting the slots was no problem since the good light had dimmed within them. Grace kept the wind away but as a precaution, we used a rain sleeve (www.optechusa.com) to protect the camera from dust. Many people from all over the world joined us in our adventure but it was not overly crowded.

On to Page for a late McDonalds lunch then over the Glenn Canyon Bridge and onto Kanab Utah along route 89. We made unexpectedly good time. The eastside of Zion during low light as we arrived was fantastic. The full moon was visible in the darkening sky and we made several photographs of it. We found ourselves back at the bridge looking toward the Watchmen around 6pm. Zion was a welcome sight and almost felt like coming home after a wonderfully exciting quest.

On Ralph’s advice, we decided to try the local diner for dinner. At first we checked on the Driftwood Restaurant but found it a little standoffish. Very close, within walking distance from the Canyon Ranch Motel, is Blondie’s Diner. This small “hole in the wall” is a well-established hometown favorite in Springdale and the whole family pitches in to make it work. Blondie made sure to greet us with cheerfulness that made us feel welcome. Funny plaques are hanging on every square inch of wall about lazy husbands and fishing and chocolate. The food is simple country fare and good. However, the confections are another story all together. Blondie has a gift in pie and cobbler making. I never had such scrumptious berry pie. I could have sat in there and eat a whole pie in one sitting. We resolved to make Blondie’s our dinner selection for the next evening. By the way, another reason for the unequivocal endorsement is that her husband is a life long Pittsburgh Steelers fan, to such an extent, they have a Steelers shrine at home, and before entering you need to say three hail Mary’s.

The night sky was filled with bright stars much more visible in this neck of the woods.

Saturday, October 31st 2009

Our last full day in Zion country began with a relaxed 6am breakfast at Pioneer Café and prepared for a long days work. At this point we had the beginnings of PADD (Photography Attention Deficit Disorder) but found the will to go on deep in our ever loving photography bones. Our cameras cried uncle several days before but gave up hope for a short rest.

It was decided that we try to cover locations overlooked during our first full day in Zion. We made haste to the eastside driving through Mount Carmel Tunnel in the dark. Once we arrived on the eastside, we looked for a good spot to capitalize on sunrise and found it. We spent about an hour in the area then made a quick visit to Checker Board Mesa. After the sun made its way above the horizon, we went back into the park and stopped at the Canyon Overlook trailhead parking area immediately east of the tunnel. This is a stellar trail for early morning photography. The trail leads to a commanding view of Zion Canyon. The light was not good from the overlook itself at this time because it was not even. Half the canyon was in shadow while the other half was dimly illuminated. It is a paradox between the trail and the overlook for best time but 1 or 2pm is best for the overlook. During the short hike, mountain goats could be seen feeding on a distant hillside.

We made our way back to the parking lot, then to lunch at the lodge, and then advanced to the Weeping Rock trailhead. This is an oasis within an oasis. Pure water rains from the rock face with dazzling effect. By grace, we arrived at the perfect time to capitalize on the sunlight striking the water droplets in just the best way to make outstanding images. Again, water protection for the camera should be available. A long ledge protrudes out from the weeping rock where I took refuge and set up the tripod to photograph the bright yellow cottonwoods through the rain like water. The trail splits off into two directions but the weeping rock is found by way of the left trail.

The park road is open to personal vehicles now. We found many pullouts with limited space and several larger parking areas at key locations. The parking area at the lodge was very full. When vehicle accessibility is permitted the traffic inside the park is noticeable. We spent the remainder of the day stopping at different sections exploring for good compositions to photograph. I found several photographers that looked like they knew what they were doing down in the river composing images. Monkey see monkey do.

As the sun grew closer to the horizon, we made one last ditched effort to work the iconic Watchmen location. Our best effort was made but conditions were not favorable. It is much better to have some clouds in the sky for this traditional composition.

Looking forward to visiting Blondie’s we made our way. Blondie’s was crowded and we had to find seating in the back. We placed our orders and the service was impeccable. Blondie’s husband took a break and spent some time talking with us. He was so glad to speak with some real live Pittsburghers. He told us his story about being one of the most loyal Steelers fans west of the Mississippi. I must say the Halloween special of pumpkin cobbler was out of this world good. It was fun to eat at Blondie’s Diner and we decided to gift to her our no longer needed cooler among other items.

Sunday, November 1st 2009

We packed up, had breakfast at the Pioneer where we printed out our boarding pass. Since daylight savings time kicked in we had more time than first thought. We took our time heading back to Las Vegas. A stop we saved for late was the Grafton Ghost town near Rockville Utah off Ridge Road. We went over a small bridge and down a dirt road to find the small village. It is of marginal interest and can be skipped if time is short.

The ride down to Vegas was smooth but the baggage check experience was anything but. It is not permitted to check baggage more then four hours from time of flight we discovered. Ralph and I managed to have our bags checked in violation of policy but Sam did not have such luck. Frustrated, we stewed for about an hour then attempted to beat the system once again. Our rebellious ways paid off and we took a cab to the Vegas strip for lunch. Our cab driver helped calm our frayed nerves and delivered us at the MGM casino with speed. We gave her a big tip as a reward for her steam venting assistance.

The Grand Buffet at the MGM casino was very big. I stuffed myself until my poor stomach made vigorous protest. We then caught another cab back to the airport and processed to the gate. The trip home was uneventful.

Overall, it was a great trip and I know my companions and I had fun. Without Sam’s outstanding driving and Ralph suggesting Blondie’s Diner along with all the joking, I would have had to do it the hard way.

Winter Season

Merry Christams to ALL my many friends. Happy New Year 2009

2008 West Virginia Fall Colors

West Virginia Autumn Colors 2008

Friday, October 10TH 2008

A friend and I traveled the mountainous roads of West Virginia photographing the vibrant colors of fall. I was a little concerned that it might be too early in the season for the colors to be at their best. However, in many locations, the colors are vibrant and captivating. The color is dependent on elevation and the types of trees in different locations. Many mountain sides reminded us of a painter’s efforts to canvas the likeness of a rainbow. Bright cheery reds and lemon yellows splashed across sloping mountainsides all along the roadways. Enough green remained to add yet another layer of color to the mosaic. We estimated the progression of color change to be at about 60% and in several locations even further along. About 700 miles of road running by Sam’s valiant driving yielded great photographic opportunities. His driving was so noble that even when he was burning rubber while passing a West Virginia Smoky Bear we got off with only a warning.

Our trip took us down route 79 south to 119 south into Philippi where the first land battle of the Civil War took place. A huge two lane covered bridge spans across the river in town. A late brunch was enjoyed on Main Street at the Medallion Restaurant a local favorite. Our waitress instructed us to Century Junction Road were another covered bridge resides. After spending some time photographing the area, we continued south along 55 skirting Monongahela National Forest. A little known natural area near the westward trek of 55 called Cranberry Botanical Area is photogenic woodlands, ferns, and old trees scattered about. We stopped to photograph a few stand out features along its roadway. It was all day going to Fayetteville across from the New River Gorge Bridge.

Saturday, October 11th 2008

Early, before dawn we hit the road going to Babcock State Park to photograph Glades Creek Gristmill. This is the most perfect setting one could imagine with a working gristmill nestled along a creek with colorful trees framing it in. The creek leads up to the mill and a more perfect picture could not be wished. The park is located off 119 along route 44. When we arrived, the night sky offered a spectacular glimpse into the cosmos. Being away from city lights we looked up to witness a clear sky filled with countless bright stars and lights. Amazing, is not adequate to explain it.
When the sun began to break and light bathed the area the view was uncloaked and the photography was on. Many other photography enthusiasts gathered with us. A few of them even spent the night in their car. The creek was not running much water, so the waterfall in front of the mill was not as impressive as I have seen it. However, with the water being relatively still the mills reflection was clear as could be.
After the sun shown its light hard on the mill the photography is no longer good and we moved on to the small lake above the mill area. Some reflections of colorful trees offered a challenge.
We decided that all that could be accomplished was, so we started back home. Our trek took us to Gauley Bridge along route 60 then onto route 39 back to 119 north. We then made time to 79 north. After making good time we decided to take one last detour from the interstate and hunt for a few more pictures. We found the West Virginia State Cemetery with Arlington like tomb stones of veterans in endless rows. We discovered a few nice barns and farmlands and a few more spectacular stands of colorfully vibrant trees on back roads.
We negotiated our way through the University of WV Mountaineer Football crowd and had a less than memorable late day lunch at a Shonnys.

All and all it was a great get away from the old grind and we got to see enough fall color to last until next year.

Alaska Summer 2008 Adventure

Alaskan Adventure 2008

On this first Alaskan adventure, I was joined by my cousins from southern California and we visited our cousin and family whom live in Eagle River north of Anchorage. Curt, Roxanne, and Emily were the best and most gracious hosts anyone could ever wish to have.

During our weeklong odyssey, over 1800 miles were traveled by rental car and over 1200 digital image captures were made. We covered as much territory as humanly possible while time we had. All aspects of the trip are covered including photography locations and wildflower conditions and weather. A few good tips are also included to anyone thinking about a visit.

This trip log will most probably be the longest I have ever written; therefore, interested readers should print out a copy. Readers might find some useful information among the passages. Only a few images will be on the trip log the others will be in the gallery. In the gallery the image will first appear in low quality then in better quality, they are small to save time in uploading them.

http://picasaweb.google.com/ricklionheart222

Please leave a comment after you have finished reading.

Friday, July 11th 2008

The daylong flight into Anchorage was by Northwest Airlines and Alaskan Airlines from Seattle Washington. Alaskan airlines were notably better than Northwest airlines in hospitality and service. The Seattle airport has a rather complex maze to navigate going from Northwest gates to the Alaskan gates. You need to travel by two different transport trains to reach the Alaskan airline gates.

Across this rich nation, farmlands stretch as far as the eye can see, even at 35,000 feet.

Curt met us at the airport and escorted us back to his home. Curt and Roxanne’s home is nestled among majestic mountains in the midst of Chugach State Park along Eagle River Road. Their home is arranged with a great assortment of elegant art. Curt is an accomplished outdoorsman and displays an impressive collection of hunting trophies that include a brown bear skin; that is luxurious to the touch. An enormous shoulder mount of an arctic Muskoxen that he received an award for, a black bear skin, several mountain goats, and other trophies.

Roxanne’s taste in art and her outstanding fabric art is on display all around the house. We found that Emily is a wonderful cook.
Later in the evening, Roxanne and I went to Chugach State Park and found a moose feeding in a roadside marsh then it was back to the airport to pick up Monty and Larry my wonderful cousins from southern California. It has been many a moon since last I spent quality time with them.
Curt and Roxanne’s miniature dachshund was a welcome high-energy bundle of fun and took a liking to me, as it should be with all those that I encounter.

Saturday July 12th 2008

Curt joined us for a day of good old fun. We enjoyed an early morning hike in the state park. We spotted a Bald Eagle perched on a treetop. The mountains along the hike are grand. Eagle River flows through the valley and bright fireweed grows along its banks.

The Bear Paw festival in Eagle River was fun with street performer’s entertaining the crowds and the Slippery Salmon Olympics was in full swing. Contestants need to carry a wet salmon in one hand while in the other hand a serving tray with various items to the finish line. It looked like a lot of fun.

We took a ride into Anchorage to visit Hood Lake and the Aviation Museum. Hood Lake has the greatest concentration of small floatplanes in the country.

The museum is a work in progress and has a nice number of interesting aviation exhibits inside and out.

We then proceeded to pick up the rental car at ABC RV and car rental near the airport. The car they had set aside for us was not the best on the lot to say the least. Monty complained and the owner’s wife instructed the service person to give us a better car. We were offered a newer but smaller car that worked out fine for the whole trip.

After the car pickup, Curt took us to a famous Anchorage Saloon known as Chilkoot Charlie’s. This rough around the edges saloon is a combination of many different themed bars all under one roof. Its eclectic atmosphere is a maze of fun. We all had a nice beer and caught up on lost time.

Curt and Roxanne along with Emily treated us all to a perfect Alaskan king crab dinner. The sesame cabbage salad was superb and the King Crab legs were huge. Curt then treated us to some sophisticated liquors.

Sunday July 13th 2008

Today we hit the road very early in the morning and went north to explore the Glenn Highway. The weather was not favorable during most of the trip but it never is too bad for very long. The weather can change from one moment to the next but did remain generally overcast much of the week. The temperatures remained comfortably cool each day between 50°F and 65°F.
We stopped at Thunder Bird waterfalls and hiked the two-mile trail. The falls gushed with torrents of mountain snowmelt and the air was invigorating. It’s important to bring along deet bug repellent because of the innumerable small ponds and standing pools that help the misquotes breed. Anyone that reports little or no mosquito troubles obviously did not get too far away from the car during their trip.

Palmer is a relatively small town and from there we traveled to the Muskoxen farm. We took the tour and photographed these prehistoric survivors of the arctic. The combed fur of these animals, called Qiviut, is lavish and resultant fiber is costly and well sought after.

The Glenn Highway offered a plethora of photographic opportunities and slowed our progress considerably as we traveled down the famous road. Two frequently repeated words that we used, as we drove down the road, were “Awesome and WOW”.

The sun came out around two in the afternoon and we arrived at our destination, the Matanuska Glacier. This flowing river of ice is spectacular to view from a distance. It actually looks like a silver blue river flowing down the valley. We noticed the Long Rifle Lodge near mile marker 100 and it looks like a respectable place to stay. Another lodging option nearby is Sheep Mountain Lodge that also has a nice restaurant.
On our return trip to Anchorage we decided to stop at Independence mine and Hatcher pass. The first 10 miles back is not impressive if that is possible in Alaska. However, after the first 10 miles a mountainous region begins to appear lush with emerald green forest. Snow melt waters surge down a brook and across huge boulders all along the roadway leading to the mine. It is very much like a storybook fantasyland. A mysterious haunting atmosphere around the elderly mine was enhanced by low rolling clouds and fog. This unbelievably scenic route is highly recommended with pristine alpine brooks and verdant mountains.

Our first day of exploration was outstanding and regardless of imperfect weather was very enjoyable.

Monday, July 14th 2008

Early in the morning, we left the Eagle River area and started south into the Kenai Peninsula region. The landscape of Kenai Peninsula brazenly assaults new arrivals with a merciless and crippling array of breathtaking beauty. Majestic snow capped mountains tower above valleys on all sides, turquoise lakes and flowing streams adorn the low lands as wild flowers, and evergreens proudly boast their splendor. This ostentatious display made it difficult to travel to the destination we set out for in a timely manner. Although countless turnouts are provided along the way, they are not enough for the photographer. Many times we had to pull off the roadside to photograph outstanding views. It is just too big for the camera and some scenic wonders had to be passed by simply because the camera was powerless to capture it.
Along the Seward Highway are several pullouts that feature trailheads, waterfalls, picnic areas, and scenic overlooks of the Turnagain Arm.
We would have liked to travel up Girdwood road but time would not allow it. We did stop at the Portage Glacier area. The road back to Portage Glacier is stunning. Waterfalls and blue ice around the mountains abound. We arrived just in the nick of time to catch the boat going out. As soon as we got on board the ship left for the tour; this was a lucky time saver. There is just too much fresh air and the cold wind from the lake filled our lungs with life. The boat ride cost $30 and is well worth the price. The flashcard memory is being filled up too fast. One tip to photographers thinking about a visit is to bring double the flashcard memory that you think needed.

After our pleasurable time at Portage Glacier, we decided to go to Whittier by way of a one-lane mountain tunnel. The toll is $12 and each car needs to wait in line for the next group that takes turns going to and from Whittier. On the other side, Whittier is a working seaport that receives cruise ships and transports people and cars to Valdez. It is a run down community and in my opinion is too time consuming to visit, it is not recommended.

When we finally arrived in Seward, our dinner was enjoyed at Chinooks Waterfront. The lobster bisc was appetizing while the grilled stuffed halibut had crab cream cheese filling that set it apart from the common. Monty treated us to a toast of Crown Royal and we explored the Seward area. Fishermen brought their catch of halibut and other fish to nearby docks for processing. We noticed when driving down the road, south of town, along the bay, that sea otters were playing near shore.
We found Salmon Creek Cabins off Nash Road a little north of Seward. It was back along some rather rustic run down properties but once settled in, was not too bad of a cabin. The owner was not at home when we first arrived but the door was open and the welcome sign was out. Later I talked with some anglers staying in one of the other cabins and asked them about wildlife locations. It is always a good idea to ask locals where the best locations are. They gladly told me that just a few miles down Seward Highway off Bear Lake road is a small spot where a Grizzly bear and her cub have been frequenting. Well, once we found the place local children road their bikes around and several cars parked near the site. We stopped by the location several times but did not have a chance to see her. We walked around the salmon creek that she liked and it was somewhat spooky knowing that at any moment she might appear. I noticed that seagulls and a few Bald Eagles also frequent the location to scavenge scraps left behind. When the kids ride their bikes around a nearby blind curve on the road they make all kinds of noise as is common practice in bear country. A surprised grizzly with a cub is nothing to fool with. It’s much better to let them know you are coming beforehand. Many salmon congregated in the waters swimming up stream and we could see them jumping over nearby waterfalls.

The other wildlife location that a local told us of was just off our cabin on Nash road. A short distance down the road is a large marsh area that moose frequent to feed on the willows. Again, the wildlife eluded us at this site also. However, the marsh exhibits a perfect reflection of the mountain with wildflowers in the foreground. If time will allow traveling down back roads can be well worth the effort. Nonetheless, the best views are most often found when hiking on trails among mountains and streams; just be careful to make noise and do not hike alone.

Tuesday, July 25th 2008

This morning is our 6-hour tour of Kenai Fjords National Park and Resurrection Bay. Our boat is the Aialik Voyager by Kenai Fjords Tours.
I was beginning to feel a little sleep depravation at this point. It will not get dark until about 11pm and the light returns around 4am but it never gets fully dark only twilight. This can have an effect on sleep and the light lets a photographer keep on keeping on longer than the old body would like. I was going on adrenaline from this point forward.

Resurrection Bay is a magnificent area. Mountains are all about and interesting sea stacks along with small islands populate the bay. The inhabitants of these fascinating rocky crags are all manner of wildlife. Sea otters play, puffins fly, and stellar sea lions huddle together sunning themselves among the rocks. Yes, the sun did show through the clouds every so often during our tour. The boat captain was keen to tell us his strategy in finding as much wildlife for us to see as possible. He had a colorful personality and did his level best with the short time he had.
I found that it is important to keep my hands free and warm as it is about ten degrees cooler in the bay and the wind created by the boats movement added to the chill. Bring gloves and do not get coffee while on board. Have a good breakfast at Seward diner before the trip.
We found several dolphin like swimmers putting on a show and a mink whale breached the water line with a big splash. We also got to see a humpback whale breach the water line and make an even bigger splash much to everyone’s delight. A few Bald Eagles perched above on tree tops looked valiantly down upon our boat passing by.
The boat arrived at Aialik Glacier and it was bigger and more imposing than Portage Glacier was. After the boat stops and is hushed, one can listen to the glacier crack and thunder with a cavernous drum like moan. The thick snow packed ice moves and cracks with a haunting voice that echoes across the frost cold waters. It is almost like being able to hear a giant that is approaching but cannot see it. Then suddenly heavy ice and packed blue snow falls to the frigid waters below sending out an explosive boom and a tidal wave big enough to surf on. Seeing and hearing an enormous glacier calve is a thrilling experience. Our boat tour was very well done and is recommended.

After our boat trip, we began our return trip back to Cousin Curt’s. It was slow going on the way home because of all of the overwhelming scenery. We decided to stop at the Alaskan wildlife conservancy to make double darn sure we got some wildlife photographs. The wildlife at this point has been more elusive than what was expected. When we arrived in Anchorage, we stopped at Little Italy for dinner and the food was great. The Greek spaghetti with feta cheese and olive oil was particularly tasty. It’s a place that comes recommended.

Wednesday, July 16th 2008

Today we drive 270 miles north to Denali National Park. The first half of the journey was, relative to what we experienced the last few days, not as picturesque. However, the closer we approached the park the landscape opened up to a completely new understanding.

Talkeetna is an interesting stop along the way and worth the side trip from off Park Road. Talkeetna has several small shops and is a genuine frontier town. Along the only road going though town is the Roadhouse. This is a celebrated place to stop and have breakfast with its own bakery. We went inside to find an eclectic time-honored atmosphere that has a welcoming ambiance. Common large tables are set about in the dinning room where anybody can take a chair and sit with others; much like one might do at home. The food is promptly brought out once ordered and the hardy breakfast was quite good. If you choose anything that is not on the breakfast menu it is classified as “Not Breakfast” and selections are posted on a chalk board. The fresh baked goods are displayed in a case at the front counter and after sampling one of them, I must recommend them with my highest regards.

About 50 miles south of the park, the scenery becomes impressive. We stopped many times to make photographs and at the north and south lookouts of Mount McKinley. Much to our chagrin the legendary McKinley was shrouded in low clouds and could not be seen at all. Mount McKinley has a larger bulk and rise than Mount Everest. Even though the summit of Everest is about 9,000 feet higher as measured from sea level, its base sits on the Tibetan Plateau at about 17,000 feet, giving it a real vertical rise of a little more than 12,000 feet. The base of Mount McKinley is roughly a 2,000-foot plateau, giving it an actual rise of 18,000 feet.

We found the Perch Resort about 10 miles south of the park entrance. The cabins were rustic but slightly more refined than Salmon Creek Cabins. The establishment compensates for its rustic charm with a well refined dinning room. We enjoyed a hardy dinner of fresh broiled halibut over wild rice with dill sauce and grilled vegetables. The homemade blue cheese dressing was extra good and the warm bread added a touch of old country charm to the experience. Topping it off was the addition of a scrumptious homemade blueberry pie.

Thursday, July 17th 2008

It was a very early to rise day and crisp arctic air wished us a good morning. We had to make it to the Wilderness Access Center by 5am to board the first bus going into the park. When we arrived, all was in order and we set out into Denali. The bus is a basic school bus without any accommodations so it is important to bring food and drinks with you. We also had binoculars and our camera equipment. A tripod is of little use on the bus and stops are limited, unless one wishes to hike around. Since much of the photography is out of the window of the bus and hand held I increased my ISO setting to around 800 or even higher and used shutter priority at about 400-500/s. I also brought along a few Advil to take later in the day because the bus will shake rattle and roll most of the 85 mile trip and another 85 miles back. Only a single road traverses the park. Some folks brought along seat pads, which is not a bad idea if you have room for them. For a photographer it is important to find a window seat with a working window and that it is on the driver’s side of the bus. The driver’s side going into the park offers better views of the wild and untamed landscape.

Although the weather was not favorable, the park is so immense that it transcends weather conditions in its ability to awe visitors. The landscape is feral arctic tundra with low growing multicolored wildflowers all along the road and across the land. Mosaic hills and mountains rise above the tundra with remarkable form and shape. As the bus lurched into the park bouncing over rough road the driver spotted a moose feeding in a marsh just off to the side. Further along, the driver kept watch for other wildlife and found it. We saw artic hare, grizzly bear, caribou, red-tailed fox, eagles, and the Alaskan state bird the Willow Ptarmigan. About half of the wildlife was too distant to photograph. Several visitor centers and key overlooks are along the road and the driver stops to allow us to get out and stretch every hour or so. The bus was about half full on departure but was loaded on the return trip because it will pick up backpackers and others along the way.
By the time the adventure is concluded it was time for dinner that was again held at the Perch Resort dinning room. This time I enjoyed delicious sautéed Alaskan scallops with mashed potatoes and we shared a superb crab cake appetizer. Encouraged by my energetic cousins, I joined them in going back to the park after dinner to hike at Horseshoe Lake inside the park. A moose was feeding in the lake and we managed to get quite close to her and made several close up photographs of her.
All in all Denali was a fascinating adventure, however it is also quite a gamble in viewing wildlife and in its willingness to reveal the great one. Perhaps I will have another opportunity to see the celebrated mountain in the near future.

Another note to anyone planning a trip is that two accommodations are just outside the park entrance and looked nice. Denali River Cabins and a place simply called Grizzly Bear.

Friday, July 18th 2008

We decided it was time to sleep in for once during our trip and got up relatively late around 730am. We enjoyed our complementary breakfast and set out on a rainy morning. I felt a little let down because of sleep depravation, not getting to see Mount McKinley, and the continued dark overcast weather. Clouds can accent landscape photography nicely and have done so several occurrences during the trip but the continual overcast got me down. On the way south back to Anchorage we stopped at the Etluka Village to photograph the Russian Orthodox Church and cemetery. Each grave in the cemetery has built above it a colorful spirit house. Some of them are fairly ornate. We made good time back to Eagle River and stopped to have lunch at Carl’s Jr. a burger joint.

Later in the evening the whole family got together for dinner at a place in Eagle River called the Haute Grill. It was an outstanding eatery with sophisticated selections and hardy portions. All of the chosen entries looked mouth-watering. I had the Seafood Gumbo that was filled with shrimp, mussels, scallops, and clams.

Saturday July 19th 2008

At the last minute we all decided to make the 270 mile road trip to Homer and return in one day. It was doable and a long hard trip but we would discover well worth the added effort. Early in the morning we hit the road and traveled back down into the spectacular Kenai Peninsula. At the junction of where the Seward and Sterling Highway meet we took the Sterling Highway. The scenic mountain landscape is jaw dropping along the route; mountains after endless mountain embellish our course.
Near Cooper Landing we stopped at the Sunrise Café for a hardy Breakfast. A few local anglers talked of the fishing conditions and what was going on around the village. The Sterling Highway is a little different than Seward Highway in that more facilities and accommodations are along the road way. Many anglers are fishing for Salmon in the Russian River along the route. The river is a beautiful torques blue.

It was a crisp 45°F morning. There is simply too much beauty to cover in a single trip, the side roads need to be explored; we should be hiking on the trails, not enough time to cover the extensive region.

When we reach the southward stretch of the road going to Homer a sudden white snowcapped chain of mountains appears across Cook Inlet. They are distant enough to make them difficult to photograph but not so much that they are not appreciated by the human eye. All along the Cook Inlet going to Homer the wild lupine grows in abundance and they are at peak blossom. Fields and endless fields of lavender blooms are everyplace and along the roadway. The copious fireweed in this location had yet to start its bloom but was only a few days away from doing so. From what I have noticed it seems that when the lupine begins to fad the fireweed begins to bloom and that each location is different in when that happens by a week or two.

Just outside Homer on top of the hill where the welcome sign is located is a large pullout and scenic overlook. In this location is a perfect spot to photograph Bald Eagles in flight. At the far north corner of the overlook is a deep gully where the eagles like to ride the thermals. We saw many eagles, some two at a time riding the thermals then landing in nearby trees.

Along the Homer spit are old shipyards with rustic ramshackle fishing boats and interesting properties of local folks. Further down near the end is a menagerie of shops, fishing charters, restaurants, and other tourist attractions. The one place that stands out among the others is the Salty Daug Saloon. This light house style building has an interior with walls covered in one dollar bills. Each dollar bill has a story to tell, could they speak. It is a wild and landmark location on the Homer spit.
We had our lunch at an unpretentious restaurant across from the Salty Daug, explored the beach area as cold inlet wind chilled our bones, and slowly made our way back to the car. We could not linger too long because my cousins had to catch their flight back home.

On our return trip we stopped at several locations passed by on the way down. Among them was the Russian Orthodox Church at Ninilchik. This church and the high perch it sits on are exceptionally photogenic. It has a green Russian bochka-roof and white siding in the traditional style. The yard around it is populated with many orthodox tomb sights and crosses. Wildflowers grow among the tombs and along the white picket fence that surrounds the church. Across the inlet a volcano can be seen with steam at its crown. It is a photographers dream.
We stopped at Saint Elias Brewery near Soldotna and had the sampler of beers that they brew. We did not order any food but I could not help notice that what food they brought out looked very good.

There is a large marsh area at the junction of Sterling and Seward highways. A beautiful snowcapped mountain reflects into it and the grass and willows in the marsh make for a picture postcard image that shouts out ALASKA! Along the road home a huge rainbow appereard in the sky. The biggest and best rainbow that I ever saw. It was a sign of hope for the next visit to this great land.

When we reached Anchorage and before going to the airport we had a late dinner at Gwennie’s Old Alaskan Restaurant on Spenard Road. This is a cool place to have a bite to eat and portions are hardy. Inside is a wishing well and a collection of Alaskan frontier items.
All three of us were very sad to see each other go but such is life.

Sunday, July 20th 2008

The last day was relaxed a time to reflect on all that happened. On the way out to Anchorage off Eagle River Road, in the distance, we could see the great one. Its white snow covered beatuy greeting us and wishing us well until next time. Later in the day I returned the rental car and Curt, Roxane, me, and mother went to an Anchorage sushi buffet. Curt introduced me to sushi and I found it to be very good.
The flight home was uneventful but long and hard.

Some people give their hearts to a sport or a job or even a material thing to the exclusion of all else. But there are those that are captivated by a vast unspoiled land, a land of snow capped mountains and silver ice fields, a place where endless evergreens stretch across the valleys and wildlife runs free over vast tundra. A realm called Alaska. If you are smart, you will visit this land at least one time during this very short life. I intend to return very soon.

GOD BLESS AMERICA