Adirondack Adventure October 2012

• Saturday, September 29th

I got an early 5:30am start with the odometer reading 47848
79 North to NY 90E then NY 86E and then began the back road adventure from Salamanca. The autumn color in New York is at about 50%. Ellicottville is a small trendy hamlet among the hills. I stopped at DJ’s diner for a late 10am breakfast. The small community of Arcade offers a scenic train ride to Attica. I managed to arrive at Arcade just as the train was departing the station for its noon excursion. I decided to chase the steam engine through the countryside. I was rewarded with a perfect image capture along its route. Take route 98N from Arcade to Chaffee Road and setup the tripod at Curries depot. One can hear the engines advance because the conductor likes to herald his approach with the steam whistle. As I chased the train, I could see it chugging along in the valley surrounded by colorful hills. The black smoke and snow white steam designating its position. Along the way to Letchworth SP, I had to stop at a roadside stand and purchase a jug of genuine New York maple syrup.

Letchworth State Park is a worthy stop with an $8 entrance fee. The Glen Iris Inn has a nostalgic ambiance and resides near the upper falls. The lower falls requires a challenging 127-step hike up and back in order to observe its full grandeur. The upper falls, which is the favored one, is not as demanding. An overlook is provided for easy viewing of the iconic upper falls across from the stone house. It is too early for the autumn colors at this location; another 10 days and it will be perfect. The upper falls is reminiscent of the Yellowstone Falls. It is nestled at the end of a long gorge with high cliffs on both sides with a stream snaking away from it.

Dansville is a laid-back community with a small main street offering a variety of shops and restaurants. I enjoyed dinner at the Sunrise.

Logan’s Inn is a convenient lodging selection near a gas station and 24-hour convenience store. The price is $70/night.

All and all, the first day was all that I could have wished for. The weather is cool and pleasant; the autumn colors are about 50%, and striking bucolic farmlands embellished the countryside all along the way. I have noticed in dinning and gas that cost of living is between 6% and 8% higher in New York compared with Pennsylvania.


• Sunday, September 30th

Departed Dansville around 6:30 am going to Naples - Naples is a significant town with a big local employer that manufactures farm equipment. Some type of huge street fair was going on but it was too early to explore. At the end of main street Bob and Ruth’s diner looks like a good place to stop for breakfast but I past it up. Route 21 north offers outstanding views of the countryside. It seems that pie is king around these parts and everyone has signs up selling pie.

I enjoyed breakfast at Patty’s Place diner in Canandaigua. Patty makes homemade blackberry jam and bread. I noticed a steady flow of patrons coming and going and the decision was made.

I decided to visit Salmon Creek Falls. From the hamlet of Orwell, take route 22 east for 2.5 miles then left on Falls Road for 1.2 miles. Parking is found on the roadside. There is a short and easy trail to the overlook. The falls are photogenic and worth the side trip.

Along route-3 is the community of Pulaski where countless fisherman were angling for inland salmon.
Watertown is a mid-sized town. The colors are at about 30% in this area. I stopped for lunch at Crystals Tavern in the town square. The building is a relic of the past with a working payphone hanging on the wall.
As I approached the Adirondacks, the colors improved dramatically about 30 miles out and all along the remaining route. At Raquette Lake, a bald eagle took flight across the lake as I stood watching at lakeside.
Drizzling rain was my constant foe all day long but I fought to overcome its malice. The autumn colors are at peak among the mountains. Deep rich crimson, cherry, and ruby hues adorn the mountains accompanied by a full spectrum of pumpkin orange and sunflower yellows. Some examples are too intense for the eye to endure.

The Tupper Lake region is blemished with several abandoned and run down properties but they merely distract from the spectacle of natures show. The aptly named White Birch Café served a surprisingly good spaghetti and meatball dinner; being raised in a predominantly Italian neighborhood; that is saying something. The Park motel ($63/night) was a poor choice but you get what you pay for. Alternative locations nearby, based on external appearance, might have been better choices.

• Tupper Lake Motel
• Shaheens Motel


• Monday, October 1st

A steady rain fell all night long. The morning revealed gloomy skies all around. The glory of the mountains surrounding me is obscured by a shroud of heavy mist and low hanging clouds. A curse is upon the day as punishment for my evil deeds. It is hopeless and I bare the heavy burden of defeat upon my shoulders. The potential is vaguely perceived through the gloom of what could be incredible splendor. Its 10am and the gloom remains but I fight the good fight and continue to seek photographic opportunities.

Color stage is best described with estimated percentage values:

20% leaf drop
75% peak color
10% Green – not including evergreens
15% past peak

Traveling east from Tupper Lake is Corey’s road. This side road is worth exploring for creative photographic opportunities. The Blue Moon Café at 55 Main Street in Saranac served a delicious late breakfast. The cuisine is of gourmet quality. The eggs benedict on homemade muffins is superb.

I arrived at Lake Placid around noon to find a commercialized tourist town. The heavy mist worsens and there is no proof that any mountains exist at all. Along route 86 on the way is an interesting place called Tail of the Pup, it is worth a stop for lunch. In Lake Placid, the affluent place to stay is Golden Arrow Lodge.
Route 73 between Keene and Lake Placid is difficult to believe that the colors can be so vivid; it is almost unearthly. Perhaps God has mercifully cloaked the mountains in mystery because he knew that if there full glory was shown it would stun me more than I could bear. The high peaks region is best and most of the time spent should be here. Lodging is all about but I noticed a place called Cobble Inn on route 86 that looked good with a tremendous view. The ill weather has frustrated me.

I decided to call it a day and enjoyed dinner at Lisa-G’s pub at 6125 Sentinel Road. It is a uniquely creative culinary experience. The Moroccan burrito filled with chickpeas, roasted peppers, onion, and then drenched in a savory cucumber sauce, was tasty.

Cascade Inn is OK and its proximity to a key photography location is important. Adirondack Loj Road is a spectacular 5-mile drive that offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. It leads back to a parking area where the trailhead to Mount Jo is found. This road is located just east of Lake Placid off route 73.

My (what should be) award winning sunset image was captured along this road.

• Tuesday, October 2nd

With a touch of hope I rose early went outside and looked up into the night sky to see the moon and the stars. Glad and excited I made hast to take advantage of dawn light along Loj Road. The sun ascended slowly just behind a mountain and I captured it as it flashed rays of light across the lowlands. Fog, like a ghost, moved among the evergreens.

Continuing to the parking area the last 3 miles of the road is flanked by woodlands. An $8 fee is suggested and the trailhead of Mount Jo is unpretentiously hidden nearby. I might have given this undertaking a second thought had I known the level of challenge beforehand. At 7:30 am the hike began. Before the ascent is an observation area for Heart Lake. This alone is worth a visit as the lake is surrounded by mountains and brilliant colors. At first, the hike was not too difficult but with the increasingly heavy tripod on my shoulders and the angel of the trajectory becoming questionable, my faith began to slip. Nothing worth achieving is accomplished without effort and struggle. The pathway is rocky and muddy. At some points, the trail becomes lost in heavy boulders and undergrowth. This is the best stress test anyone might undergo and much to my surprise, my heart did not complain. That is not to say that my lungs were not complaining as they gasped for thin air near the summit. I was about to give up and turn back but the summit is so near we must continue. A passing hiker warned that malevolent clouds are beginning to march back into the mountains and that I had better hurry.

The last few feet leading to the summit were a crawling struggle. I heard the voices of a few others at the top and followed the sound. Once upon the rocky peak my efforts were rewarded more than I could have dreamed. Moses was not permitted to look upon the face of God but I am. Before me was a vision of mountain grandeur unmatched by anything that I have witnessed before. Kaleidoscopes of pigments emboss sweeping views in every direction. I did not view a single burning bush but endless burning bush. It is simply too much to explain. I stood silent as did the others and became reverential. The camera was put aside as a useless devise woefully inadequate. Nevertheless, after some time with cool winds caressing the summit I took up the instrument and made a best effort to capture images of what I saw but to no avail.

The decent was made reluctantly. It was almost as difficult as going up. I returned to the car at 10:30am. It took me a great deal of time to make the round trip hike being out of shape and 51 summers old. Therefore, it was a 3-hour tour and well worth it.

Sinister weather moved into the region once again. I followed the plan and began the day’s road trip to Wilmington. Wilmington has a great little deli supermarket that make a good sandwich. Whiteface mountain memorial roadway is a step climb. I paid the $10 fee and began but the ill weather worsened obscuring any views. The prospective for the fantastic was unrealized so I turned back and departed.

In spit of the weather, I stopped at High Falls Gorge. This tourist attraction features a powerful waterfall that passes through a narrow gorge of solid rock walls. Several viewing platforms are built into the side of the rock walls. A particularly nice photo opportunity is had just as one crosses over the first bridge to the left. The stream presents an (S) curve as it flows out of wooded mountains in the background. At this time the mountains were not visible.

The rain stopped around 3:30 in the afternoon. Just south of the village of Jay along route 9N is country route 52. I took this road up a long hill where it levels off among striking mountain panoramas. This is a great road to explore. It branches out in several directions; I investigated each.

Returning to Lake Placid along route 73, I had a difficult time finding the public use area for Cascade Lake. It is a very sneaky little road off the main road. Once down in the parking area the lake is like a mirror reflecting the mosaic mountains. Cascade Falls, from what I was told, does not always run; only when it rains. They should do a car commercial on route 73 between Jay and Keene. Western landscapes have nothing on this stretch of road.

I stopped in Lake Placid and indulged myself with a Tex Mex burrito for dinner. The Down Town Diner was closed and only open for breakfast and lunch.

• Wednesday, October 3rd

I awoke to another good morning and decided to hurry so that the sunrise could be captured along Adirondack Loj road. As I arrived, Mark Bowie of the Adirondack Photography Institute introduced himself. He was in the field instructing a student. We discussed some of the finer points in photography. Again, the mist blanketed the lowlands and vapors created interesting designs across the high peaks. I think that a few of the image captures created here should be top contenders.

Unfavorable weather moved in once again. I stopped at ADK Café in Keene. The Café is operated by a family team. Mother brought hot bread from the oven out into the dinning area and placed it onto a ledge to cool. Soon afterward, she returned with a sheet of yet warm chocolate chip cookies. Well, I just had to purchase a few items.

Traveling down route 73 from Keene to Hudson is Hull Road where a waterfall can be found. I worked in the rain with the umbrella and traversed some of the mountain streams. Much to my chagrin by the end of the day I not only looked like I was rode hard and put away wet – I was. Fate demands that I curl up into a fetal position and wait for death but I deny it the satisfaction.

At noon, the rain subsided and at that time, I was traveling along Blue Ridge road to Elk Lake Lodge. This location is a secret gem among the high peaks and offers dazzling views of several mountains reflecting in pristine waters. The lodge is an exclusive place to stay while visiting and comes highly recommended even if for a single nights stay. By doing so, the photographer will be in the perfect location to capture both sunrise and sunset images. Warning signs are posted all along the roadway in an effort to keep unwanted people out and to secure the solitude and peacefulness. If every tourist passing through knew about the place, it would be overrun. It is kept concealed by design. ($150/night- includes meals)

Photographic opportunities abound between the village of Newcomb and Long Lake; the potential is out of this world, but heavy mist torments me.

Long Lake has many picturesque views. A Norman Rockwell-isc church reflects in the lake. The Adirondack Hotel stands proudly in the center of town at lakeside. It is a nostalgic structure. Several haunting examples of taxidermy decorate the interior; a large standing black bear, moose head, dear, coyote, and the like. I spent too much on dinner at there restaurant but the seafood-alfrado really hit the spot after a long hard day in the rain.

Sandy Point motel is the best place I have lodge the whole trip. It was right along the lake with an open screen option giving me the feeling I was sleeping out doors. I will most definitely lodge here again next visit.

• Thursday, October 4th

After a good nights sleep I spent the morning exploring the region around Long Lake. It is a great place to find photographic opportunities. Later on, my travel plan was altered slightly to adventure down to Indian Lake. The drive down was uneventful except for e few reflecting ponds along the roadside. Upon arrival around noon, my diversion was rewarded with a great lunch. Indian Lake Restaurant is operated by a trained chief and the lunch was outstanding. The potato leek soup was delectable.
Near the hamlet of Inlet I decided to explore a dirt road leading to the great unknown. It was a gamble and after some time of bouncing around I decided to turn back.

Old Forge is a big place that comes complete with a water fun park. Plenty of motels, and other attractions. The south end of town has a few good looking motels

1. Adirondack Lodge

2. Country Club Motel that is near gas and convenience store

I continued to Remsen NY to lodge over at the Swing Inn Motel. The owner must have spilled a gallon of Febreez in the room. A dead decomposing body could have been under the bed and I would not have known it. It would have been better to lodge over in Old Forge.

• Friday, October 5th

A 6:30am departure took me down the road to a little place called Charlie’s Diner on route 5 west. Now that I have left the mountains, the sky is clear and the sun is shining.

Along route 13 is a little state park called Chittenango Falls. It features a nice waterfall. By the time, I arrived in Ithaca it was time for lunch and it was decided to try Indian. After lunch, the way to Watkins Glen was navigated. Watkins Glen is disappointing because the designated trail is high above the water features. This is a problem because it is not preferred to photograph such things from above. The shuttle does not operate during the week. Watkins Glen Lodging options might be, based on outer appearance alone:

1. Glen Motor Inn – good views of Seneca Lake

2. Villager Motel

I decided to take a self-guided tour of Seneca Lake wine country. The vast vineyards are reminiscent of the Napa Valley. Some of the winery estates are just as impressive as any in the Napa Valley. Endless rows of grape vines adorn the hillsides near the lake.

As I made my way to Dansville, several back roads were taken between Watkins Glen and Dansville. The region is home to Amish and Mennonite communities. The bucolic farmlands are picturesque but difficult to capture since the roadside is difficult to pull over. Very little room is allowed to get off the roads. The Amish are less conservative than PA Amish. Many use bicycles and power mowers as well as tractors. I arrived at Danville Logan Inn around 6pm the odometer reads 49296.

• Saturday, October 7th

The weather has finally broken into sunshine and blue skies now that I am heading home. I stopped at Jamestown for a breakfast break at a place called Lisciandro’s 207 North Main Street. The warm character of the small place made me feel like I was already home.

I decided to throw in the proverbial towel going home and did what the GPS told me to do. One thing that was noticed is that the colors seemed to have advanced significantly in a single week’s time.



Conclusion:

All in all any trip is a gamble when it comes to weather and other uncontrollable events. I would end up never going anywhere if weather reports made the decision and they are often in error. The photographer does not wish for clear skies but hopes for interesting clouds and subdued sunlight. Overcast skies would have been fine with me. However, the low hanging clouds covering the mountains with constant drizzle and bouts of rain makes practicing the art of photography exasperating.

I witnessed enough of the landscape to comprehend the possibility for outrageous splendor among the Adirondack Mountains. Based upon this visit I will most definitely return and hope that when I do the dice will come up in my favor.

After reviewing the images that I did manage to capture the trip was not by any stretch of the imagination a total loss. I managed to create a few whoppers in spite of fates demands. Any photographer worth his or her salt will do the same.

Louisiana Vacation June 2012

My sister, two nieces, nephew and I decided to enjoy our summer vacation in Southern Louisiana. I was happy to make an appreciated contribution.

Saturday, June 9^th

Our flight with Air Trans Airways was uneventful but the short window of time between connections caused a minor moment of stress in Atlanta.

My mercy and Dale Carnegie training helped me deal with a minor misunderstanding about the rental vehicle thus saving our vacation. A simple upgrade was easily arranged. The minivan proved to be comfortable and well appointed.

We arrived under an overcast sky that threatened inclement weather. The humidity and warmth was no worse than what Pittsburgh has to offer and was diffused with a cool breeze every so often. The weather overall was dynamic with clear blue sky’s one moment and a short rain storm the next. Navigating the city was interesting and southern hospitality greeted us upon arrival at the Quality Inn on the corner of 210 O’Keefe Ave.

The Zydeco and Cajun music festival was fun and many people danced around the stages. Three outdoor stages near the US mint building provided venues for many notable musical groups. The Creole tomato festival was also underway in the vicinity. Many different food booths offered flavorful samples of Louisiana culinary delights such as creole crawfish sausage Po-Boys.  Jackson Square and the French Market are festive. We spent a good portion of the day soaking up the music, food, and fun.

Bourbon Street and several adjacent streets within the French Quarter are polluted with all manner of wickedness. Saloons, pornography, Voodoo shops, and other unspeakable debauchery have corrupted the city. The single light that towers above it all is Saint Louise Cathedral; however it does not seem to have any appreciable effect.  Intoxicated revelers parade in the street stumbling past barely legal pornography displayed on outside walls. Virtually naked prostitutes, both female and male, exhibit themselves in doorways. The profane religion of Voodoo openly encourages fortune telling and tarot card readings in deplorable shops that proudly display desecrated crucifix. As we walked among this wretched sea of trouble I had the feeling that three angles would suddenly appear demanding that we escape away and that if we look back we would transform into a pillar of salt. Curiosity killed the cat so headlong we waded into it. I took a libation in an effort to experience the full effect. When in Rome do as the Romans do. I dared to tread where angels fear to go.

 It is not my habit to bias negatively so let me draw focus away from the depraved onto those things about New Orleans that charm its visitors. Jazz bands play music on the streets, performers show off their talents in hope to receive an appreciative coin, horse drawn buggies escort visitors on tours, the cuisine is exceptional, and artist can be found everywhere. 

Before returning to the Quality Inn we decided to appreciate a New Orleans must do, Café Du Monde at 800 Decatur Street near the River Walk market. The powder sugar was blown by the wind of the Mississippi River. The beignets and coffee were tasty. Along the river walkway one can see just how broad the Mississippi is. The wind gust felt exhilarating.

Our hotel suggested the Oceana at 739 Conti Street for dinner. The jambalaya, red beans and rice and other menu items were scrumptious; it comes recommended.

Sunday, June 16^th

I got an early start today and decided to visit the city on my own with camera in hand. The early light gazed favorably upon the city. I walked a loop down to Bourbon Street then to the Cathedral and back around to the hotel. Efforts are made by early morning work crews to clean the streets after a long night of debauchery. French bread delivery trucks make their rounds. Several diehards roamed the streets like zombies. I had just enough time to capture a few images before a tempest moved in.

After taking a few moments to appreciate the hotels complimentary breakfast we had enough time, before brunch, to explore one of the unique cemeteries of the area. Gothic, above ground, tombs are lined in rows with paths between them like a necropolis. The conditions of the tombs are hauntingly alluring.

The Court of the Two Sisters at 613 Royal Street is a landmark of New Orleans at which we enjoyed our Sunday brunch. Traversing the rain showers we arrived damp. The food selections on the buffet are both numerous and delicious but the highest marks must be given to the barbequed ribs and the bread pudding.

Since the weather was inauspicious we decided to depart the city across the shorter bridge over Lake Pontchartrain during the peak of the storm and find our base camp just outside Slidell. The property is named Jabberwocky. The bayou property is well appointed with swimming pool, boat, dock, four bedrooms, and several other amenities; although rough around the edges. Nevertheless, the accommodations are much better than a motel or hotel as they are secluded and among the natural ambiance of the bayou.  A large clan of turtles called the waters in the backyard home as did the resident alligator. After sunset, frogs and crickets made their presence well known with a symphony of music.

Monday, June 17^th

Early in the morning a stroll around the property revealed interesting observations of nature. Many oblong spiders with unusually long appendages have spun webs at strategic locations along the dock. Various wildflowers colonize the bayou and some have the appearance of hibiscus. The waters are patrolled by unseen aquatic life and on occasion a splash sends ripples across the surface. Tiny dragonflies hover precariously close to the water’s surface. Turtles, like submarines, allow the periscope of their heads to cautiously look around then dive away to their next observation sight. Reflections of flora dance emerald across the waters. Small snakes swim a zigzag pattern from one landing to the next.

A highlight of our visit was scheduled for the day and we rushed to make our appointment. The Honey Island Swamp tour set sail soon after our arrival and proved to be a rewarding experience. Our guide educated us about many details of the swamp. On call, great prehistoric beasts swim to the boat side for treats and stand tall out of the water much to the amazement of all. Various types of egret and great blue herons hunt for fish among the moss draped cypress. I captured several images.

We all enjoyed lunch at La Pines café at 1061 Robert Boulevard in Slidell. La Pines was recommended by a program called Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives. It is an obscure place near the blue water tower.  All the menu items are good. I enjoyed the Prime Rib Po-Boy, red beans and rice, and cornbread. The cook came out to talk with us and was glad we stopped by. Maxine, our waitress, charmed us with her southern hospitality.

After lunch we proceeded to Fontainebleau State Park where there is a venerable oak tree of remarkable form. The trees branches flow out from the base then hang down to the ground in spectacular fashion. My nieces and nephew find a sublime splendor in the tree and celebrated a return to it.

On our return to basecamp my nephew and niece joined me in discovering where the path across the small wooden bridge leads to. We found that an outer boat dock and platform is available away from the house further out into the bayou. This setting is superior to the one near the house. The natural environment out here yields a more tranquil place to meditate on those things that truly matter in life. Sadly, distant industrial noise and cars racing down the nearby road managed to slightly spoil the ambiance. 

We all enjoyed dinner at a nearby bar called The Boil.

Tuesday, June 12^th

I got up late, around 7am, determined to take a chair to the outer dock and meditate with nature. The natural serenity was rewarding. The alligator was patrolling his territory, egrets worked on fishing, songbirds abound, and wildflowers embellish the bayou. I felt contented among the flora and fauna gazing into the water clearly viewing the sky above on its glass like surface.

Later we decided to go on a road trip to explore River Road and its numerous sugar plantations. About an hour west on River Road along the Mississippi River are several famous sugar plantations. Among them is Oak Alley plantation where a long alley from the main gate to the front door, about 100+ yards, is sagacious oak trees set at equal distant positions creating a tunnel like pattern. Entrance fees are costly and we decided to turn away to explore a less costly alternative nearby.

The Saint Joseph plantation is less opulent but all the more authentic. Some of the original slave quarters remain. The plantation is 5^th generation family owned and operated and is still producing sugarcane to date. Sugarcane fields are as abundant here as are corn fields back home. Poignant reminders of slave conditions are on exhibit.  An ominous storm chased us back into the SUV and we proceeded to explore further heading back into New Orleans. Our goal was to try Parkway Bakery famous for Po-Boys for lunch but we found it closed on a Tuesday afternoon.  We optioned to patronize another landmark restaurant called Mothers at 401 Poydras Street.  Mothers Restaurant was unimpressive and the cost was an unfair trade. I will give them credit for the sweet potato pie as it was tasty for breakfast the next morning.

After our late lunch it was decided to explore sin city again. I always thought Las Vegas had exclusive rights to the label “sin city” but its sin is dwarfed by the Big Easy. Visiting the Voodoo shops again made me feel like I might be struck down by lighting at any moment but I dared fate and explored them nevertheless. I walked about the shop as if on pins and needles fearful to look or to touch but did so anyway.

Prostitutes beckoned in their G-strings as drunks stumbled around. Entertainers of all sorts can also be found in the streets. A youth painted silver performed along with jazz musicians. A four member singing group sang a song for us. A  Saxophonist plays near the cathedral.

Wednesday, June 13^th

I arrived at the outer dock this morning around 6am. Sunrise painted the sky with subtle hues of tangerine and magenta. These colors reflected in the still waters as crickets and song birds harmonized. Altocumulus clouds created an abstract masterwork above. I sat down and enjoyed Mothers sweet potato pie. Unlike midday the temperatures during the morning hours are pleasant. The alligator patrols for breakfast as he did yesterday morning. The ubiquitous red winged black bird proudly chants his familiar song in a cypress very close to me as if I was not present.

I allowed myself to be distracted by reading Steinbeck’s “Travels with Charley”. Steinbeck is a favorite ever since I read “The Grapes of Wrath”. The book is a narrative of his solo road trip across America with his dog Charley. It gives me a foggy insight as to what I might expect should I realize my dream of following his example one day.

The Spanish moss becomes illuminated by celestial firelight making them seem ethereal among the green flora across the bayou. Reflections are surreal because the water is so perfectly calm.

As the cosmic fireball approached height I retreated back to the shade of the house. The remainder of the day, for me, was fruitless. It is uncommon for me to spend even one day without a full schedule of places to see and things to do when on a photography vacation. Each and every day is well spent doing things that cannot be duplicated back home. My fishing prowess has been proven so I had little desire to fish off the back porch. Swimming in the pool was another option but for some odd reason it did not appeal to me this day. I finally decided to go on a short road trip alone and found little that was photogenic.

Later that evening we enjoyed dinner at a very busy place called Southside Café at 3154 Pontchartrain Drive. The place was hopping with bikers and locals. The food was good. We ordered the works, catfish, crawfish, alligator, and shrimp. It seems that each place we have tried has its own top rated food. At the Oceana it was the Jambalaya and red beans, Mothers had blameless pie, Two Sisters had appetizing Ribs and bread pudding, La Pines had savory cornbread and hushpuppies, Southside has delectable catfish.

Thursday, June 14^th

We all took to the road early on our way to Lafayette. We stopped at Baton Rouge to explore LSU campus. The university grounds are interesting.

On a whim, we decided to try out a nearby diner for a late breakfast. Louie’s Café at 209 West State Street is a rough around the edges greasy spoon but oh so good. The home fries are special and the cooks are fun to watch as they cook your food on open grills without any reservations when it comes to butter and oil.

Our goal in traveling a few hours west was to experience another recommended swamp tour. McGee’s Landing in Henderson was featured on Jamie Oliver’s American Road Trip. He featured them as he helped them put their place back together again post-Katrina.  The place was difficult to find because it is located along a levee were on one side is the road and the other side is the swamp & property. With the help of cell phones and the GPS we managed to find the place. The swamp tour was uniquely interesting in that it covered a vast area where all the red cypress were harvested allowing none to remain. The species is now extinct because of thoughtless human avarice. Although we recently fed, it was decided to partake of at least one or two menu items from McGee’s.

Lafayette was disappointing because we arrived after hours and neglected to arrange for a music festival. It seems that the location is famous for Cajun music festivals and down home Acadian culture but not at the hour or day of our visit. Lesson learned; sharpen up your research skills for next time. We had lots of time to kill before we went to dinner so we explored the area. As we journeyed down Louisiana roads we found full lots of empty government trailers that were used to help displaced people after Katrina. They are nothing but waste now because of toxic chemicals off gassing from the materials. They are like a trailer ghost town.

Just outside Lafayette is a famous eatery called Prejean’s and our plan was to have dinner there.  Prejean’s is a local favorite and was recommended by a recently visited roadside shop owner. A small Cajun music group played very close to our table. We enjoyed several different menu offerings and took our time digesting them as the music played on.

On our return trip back to Jabberwocky a vivid and stunning double rainbow appeared in the sky.

Friday, June 15^th

After a peaceful visit to the outer dock I decided to make the best of the day by adding music at poolside and jumping into the water. We had a fun time and then relished local pastry shop delights. The others spent time fishing and relaxing around the house. We later collected a plethora of leftover food we took home with us over the past week and warmed it up in the oven then selected bits and pieces for dinner; waste not want not.

Saturday, June 16^th

Our last day in Louisiana was spent cleaning up and packing up. We had most of the day and decided to visit La Pines Café one more time for lunch. We then returned to New Orleans and shopped for last minute souvenirs. Afterward a visit to another necropolis at the far end of Canal Street proved interesting.  Near the airport is the community of Kenner. A favorite eatery called Harbor Seafood and Oyster Bar adjacent to Fisherman’s Cove seafood grocery on the corner of 3201 Williams Boulevard is the place for our last dinning send off from the Deep South.  We all relished the crawfish boil, hushpuppies, and alligator bites.  The SUV was returned and our flight departed soon afterward.

Summary

Although Louisiana and the Bayou has its charms they are dwarfed in comparison to other regions of this great land we call home. Few high impact landscapes or imposing vistas only the sublime ambiance of nature in the bayou if one is lucky enough to discover a place of solitude to enjoy it.  Perhaps I have become spoiled by mountains and vast landscapes that stun rather than extend a subtle embrace. From what I could see, attractions other than New Orleans, swamp tours, fishing, eating, voodoo, and music festivals are not obviously available. I must credit the bayou to be a tranquil place to meditate nature, something that I neglect to do when on fast paced photography trips.

New Orleans is Americas Gomorrah with alluring charms of music and cuisine to entice the curious into its web. A sense of wrongdoing overshadowed my short sojourn. I will not make the mistake that Lot’s wife did in departing from it.

The renowned cuisine, in so far as I was exposed to it, was marginally notable. A Po-boy is a glorified sandwich, fried foods abound and are difficult to avoid, and many items are overly seasoned.

The Deep South was an interesting place to visit but I would not want to live there.

2011 North West Adventure
Saturday, July 23rd 2011
After an ill-favored commute to Seattle and a less than user friendly Budget rental car service the GPS guided the way to my favorite cousin’s home in Tacoma but not before stopping for dinner at the famous Southern Kitchen restaurant in Tacoma. This foodies Mecca operates like a diner and offers delectable treats more commonly found in southern states. The fried chicken was great but the home cooked macaroni and cheese was second to none and the peach cobbler should be classified as a controlled substance.
1719 6th Ave Tacoma, WA www.southernkitchen-tacoma.com

Curt and Roxane found a noble home that gave me the feeling of being in the company of wisdom. It is a grand historic home build in the late 19th century. Roxane has created a master art gallery within. One is treated to a view of Puget Sound from its lofty heights where there is a quite balcony to sit in peace. This small location is like a meditation alcove.
I met my second cousin Paul for the first time and we all had a fun time at the local Pub.

Sunday, July 24th 2011

Today we enjoyed a nice stroll along the shoreline of Point Defiance Park and toured the rose garden then indulged in a wonderful lunch at Anthony’s dockside. The cook was generous with crab in the seafood linguini.
Later in the day, another loved one and I also visited not far away. Afterward Curt, Roxane, Paul, and I spent quality time together. Roxane’s cooking was an outstanding dinner treat.

Monday, July 25th 2011

The Ford Fusion at the beginning had 935 miles on it.

Early during predawn, I left for adventure. I selected less traveled roads as my pathway to the mountains. The welcome temperatures of 70s during the day and 50s during the evenings embraced me each and every day during the adventure. The mountaintops were even more refreshing. Route 18 from Tacoma east to route 203-north lead me to my first stop at Snoquaimie Falls but the fog and mist obscured the spectacle and the lower viewpoint was closed. The water flow all over the region is thunderous from heavy snowmelt. I then took route 9 north to Mount Baker Highway route 542. The trek to Mount Baker is lengthy. Along the way is Nooksack Falls. The water gushed over the edge in a deluge of aquatic power. The viewpoint is too close and fenced in. It was difficult to make an acceptable image under the circumstance. I did the best my skills would allow. The road to the mountain is embellished with all manner of wildflowers, Foxglove, Lupine, Shasta daisy, Fireweed, Indian paintbrush, Columbine, and Mountain lily. This startling wildflower display is omnipresent throughout the region. Once at the picture lake location, fate denied me the opportunity to make a good image of Mount Shuksan. The Mountain is a grand snow covered spectacle. I took a record shot just to say I did it and began my return trip down to route 20. The Mount Shuksan picture lake shot is not worth the trek in if conditions are not perfect. Setting up for the preferable lower afternoon light is challenging in that one would return to base in darkness along the mountain pass road. A place called the “Eatery” near Glacier at Skagit River Resort on route 542 was my lunch stop and the reward was wild morel mushroom soup.
The next stop was Cascadian Farms near Rockport. The 28-acre farm is nestled along route 20 in the foothills of the Cascade Mountain Range. Its roadside store offered, hot out of the oven, blueberry muffins that I just could not turn away from. A perpetual drizzle ushered me along route 20 going to the Cascades. I made the most of it by stopping at several roadside country stores. Some had gas, some had pay phones, and only a few offered anything special to eat. Upon arrival at the Buffalo Inn in Marblemount, I decided to take my rest. The Buffalo Inn is clean and basic and seems to be the only reasonable lodging near to the parks western entrance. The Buffalo Restaurant across the road is costly for unknown reasons and I decided not to patronize it. Gloomy weather settled into the region and I took my rest.

Tuesday, July 26th 2011

North Cascade National Park is an underdeveloped national park with few amenities. The park is also shared with the regional electric power company and electrical towers vandalize its mountains along with hydroelectric damns creating its lakes. The eastern section of the park does not share the western side’s regrettable status. The grandeur of the mountains, look down with a narrow gaze in displeasure at the revolting collar strangling them. Heavy early morning mist vales the wilderness.

Ladder Creek Falls near Gorge damn was closed for renovation much to my chagrin as it is one of the key attractions on the western side. Unrelenting logging trucks parade through the mountains.

Evergreen trees blanket the region with a lush coat everywhere I look and the clean scent of pine fills the cool air. The luxuriant forest gives one the feeling of what it must have been like in primeval times.

Huge banana slugs, about six inches long, slither among the ground cover. Torrents of snowmelt rush down the river. It is a whitewater rafters dream but also dangerous; drift to the left or to the right at your peril.

Well, the day was not a total disaster. The weather cleared just enough for me to soak in a glimpse of the eastside mountains. I was able to practice my art on a plethora of waterfalls and wildflowers. Colorful Larkspur grows in profusion along the eastside of route 20 going to Winthrop. I had to pull off to the roadside and make some images. I noticed in my travel that not many pullovers are available. This is something that should be remedied by the park service.
I stopped in Winthrop to enjoy lunch at Three Finger Jacks Saloon. Winthrop is a tourist theme town set in an old west style. Route 153 from Winthrop onto route 97 south should be designated a national scenic byway. The rolling hills and mountains along both sides of the road are spectacular; so much so that I almost smashed into a family of mountain goats strolling across the road. Route 97 is the apple orchard capital of the world; I never saw so many apple trees in all my born days. It is the Napa Valley of Apple trees. Roadside fruit stands can be found every few hundred yards. The Methow Valley is very scenic and well worth the drive. However, the opportunity for good compositions in photography would require more time to explore.
As I progressed, the northern section of the Wanatchee National Forest, route 97 south, has much evergreen kill off from that nasty bug. Hope is that this plague will not spread to other surrounding lush green forest.

At this point in my adventure, I decided it was too much to try and make it to Mount Rainer and looked for a layover in Ellensburg. I found a dubious place called the Rainbow Motel. I stopped and booked my $52/night room. The room was interesting but I managed to get a good night sleep without any encounters of a third kind. Up the street at 201 West University Way was the El Caporal Mexican restaurant. The dinner was basic but good. Ellensburg has three or more cheap motels and the one I should have booked would be the Thunderbird Motel close to city center.

It was an arduous but also spectacular trek from the Cascades to Ellensburg so I took my rest.

Wednesday, July 27th 2011

All of route 12 going to Mount Rainer is like a national park. It was very impressive. Clear creek waterfalls along the way are reminiscent of lower Yellowstone Falls. It was a cool morning going to the volcano. The fee to enter the park is $15.00. There remains six feet of snow at Paradise but the parking lot is open. The wildflowers along the way up were nothing less than brilliant. Indian paintbrush and countless unknown flowers stun drivers with a kaleidoscope of color. Snowmelt cascades surge down the mountainside feeding swollen rivers below. I noticed that numerous loan bicyclists and cross-country hikers tour the parklands and many are young women. I drove back down the mountain to Packwood and enjoyed lunch at the best Burger joint in the village.

As I explored the park, I discovered a cascade with a convenient parking area nearby. I found the cascade to be all we photographers dream about. Climbing down among the moss-covered rocks was dangerous but the payoff was well worth the risk. Close by a wildflower that I have been curious about was found. The noble wildflower Beargrass was proudly exhibiting its blossoms along the stream. I made several images then decided to check if they had a scent and to my surprise, the faint aroma of sweet rose caressed my olfactory receptors. The flower is tall off the ground with a globular white tassel at its top. Later I walked the trail of the patriarchs where huge cedar trees tower high above among moss covered timbers and ferns. A splashing stream flows through the grove.

Forest routes going south to Columbia River Gorge from Randle snake through primordial forest cloaked in moss and fern. Foxgloves wave in the cool winds beside the road.

Once in Cascade Locks, I crossed over into Oregon on the Bridge of the Gods. The community of Cascade Locks is a small native river town. I should have lodged at the Bridge of the Gods Motel since it was a better-looking establishment but I already booked a room at the Columbia Gorge Motel. Sometimes it is better to wing the lodging on trips such as this one; it allows more freedom and is not much of a risk.

Thursday, July 28th 2011

Very early, I began my Columbia River Gorge- waterfall photography- workshop- practice run. Since Multnomah Falls is the grand daddy of them all I went straight to it. I had the park to myself and captured many photographs. I noticed that the day looked to be sunny so my working window was limited in the early hours. This is because bright-unfiltered sunlight reflects harshly off the white waters of the falls and thus renders them un-photographable. I moved on to many other falls along the gorge; nine in all. I then stopped at Oneonta trailhead. Parking is limited at this spot. The reason it intrigued me was it is a mysterious narrow gorge within a gorge with high walls on both sides leading back into an enchanting moss blanketed unknown. In order to take the trail I needed something I lacked, a pair of water shoes. One must climb over a logjam at the gateway of the narrow slot. I climbed over with care lugging the baby (camera) with me. After going over to the other side of the log jam deep water blocked my way. Perplexed and disappointed I turned back unable to proceed.
The day was yet young and not being one to waste precious time, I decided to take the long road to Mount Hood. The path taken was route 35 south from Hood River to 26 west and back north to Battleground Washington. It was a long adventurous ramble but well worth it. It was a clear day and the mountain came into view in short order, its grand snow covered ramparts looked magical across the forestlands.

I stopped along route 26 in Zigzag Oregon to have lunch at the Zigzag Inn. How could I pass such a place by? The spaghetti lunch was surprisingly good. I was stuffed, but could not resist ordering the mountain berry cobbler. All of this driving and hiking makes one crave carbohydrates.

I drove up the road leading to the base of Mount Hood where a sky resort is located. It seemed to be springtime in the fields as small ground hugging wildflowers were in full bloom everywhere. I hiked all over looking for good compositions to fill the foreground with the wildflowers and have the mountain as the background. It was not easy to do.

Along route 26 are many groves of cherry trees and other fruit trees as far as the eye could see. The GPS lead me to Battleground Washington without any problems. The Best Western in Battleground is a far cry better than previous lodging. I searched for a suitable dinner establishment and decided to try out the local Chinese restaurant named Silver Dragon on West Main Street. My sixth sense gift at finding good places to eat did not let me down. The traditional Chopped Suey was great and comes recommended.

Friday, July 29th, 2011

My plan today is to make it back to Tacoma before nightfall. I had to make the most of such a pleasant sunny day so it was off to Mount Saint Helens National Volcanic Monument. The road back into the Monument area was long and hard but worth the trip. I traversed up a road that leads to the Volcanic Gorge area. Once there, I parked the car, purchased a day pass for $5.00, and started my hike into the gorge. A colossal lava flow worked a path into the gorge and a cerulean cascade surges through it. Volcanic rock is all over the ground and large mounds of it tower above hikers along the path. I was very happy to see this place. A suspension bridge leads one above the gorge. Looking down I saw the waters etch their course through the volcanic stone. I picked up a few small fragments of volcanic stone to keep, knowing that at one time they lived within the heart of the earth.

On the way back to Tacoma, I discovered in Woodland the Old Oak Tree restaurant and stopped for lunch. The Halibut fish and chips were scrumptious. They are famous for their cinnamon rolls.

Upon my return, family gathered at the table and enjoyed an outdoor patio dinner. If Tacoma ever has a Cherry Pie contest Roxane will win a first place ribbon.

Saturday, July 30th 2011

Upon returning the rental car, the agent wrote 1415 miles added to the original 935. That is an average of 283/day. It is not preferable to drive so laboriously during a vacation but without wings how else should one see such spectacular countryside?

The return flight home was uneventful.

The End

Hocking Hills, Ohio

Hocking Hills, Ohio 2011

My good friend Sam and I decided to spend a few days photographing a place in Ohio called Hocking Hills. The location is found in the south central part of the state about 30 miles south of Lancaster Ohio. Sandstone in the region has been molded into interesting cliffs and gorges by the hand of nature over countless centuries. The Hills have bragging rights to waterfalls. Over six individual waterfalls can be found among the Hills in addition to cascading streams. The secret to enjoying these aquatic exhibitionists is to visit after plenty of rains nourish them, without rain, they are hushed. The geological features that surround are enjoyable to hike.


Friday, April 20th, 2011

A predawn start got us rolling after watching the HD televised wedding of Prince William and Lady Kate.
Our route was programmed with a GPS leading us from Pittsburgh, PA to Zanesville, Ohio by I 70 west then Rt 22 to Rt 33 to Lancaster and onto Logan where accommodations were arranged at the Holiday Inn Express. Across the way is a Mexican cantina and down the road is a South West Barbecue. (The Old Dutch Restaurant is still open.)

Sam and I arrived in the area around 10 am checked in and covered different locations marked on the map. The tail end of a storm system yet lingered above. The clouds provide an important screen to the suns dazzling light. This muted light is essential when photographing waterfalls. Harsh light will reflect off the gushing water simulating a glare of hot brightness too difficult for the camera sensor to compensate for. It was a fortunate blessing since the forecast was blue skies next day.

Ash Cave location:
The trail at Ash Cave is a relatively short trail that leads back to a fascinating overhanging cave like sandstone cliff. At the edge of the forested precipice flow three slender ribbons of water falling to a pool below. The height of the drop is about 90 feet. The rock formation acts as an acoustic amplifier to the rhythmic music of the falling water. Sam and I set up our tripods and camera equipment and sought the best perspective. Our shutter speed was adjusted for long exposures. This will make the water have a mystical silky appearance in the image capture.

Few people joined us in our journeys around the park since it was a Friday. One should have the park all to their own during midweek.




Cedar Falls location:
The trail back to Cedar Falls is an enjoyable hike. A bridge crosses over the stream going along the trail. Early wildflowers are dappled among the fallen timbers of the forest floor. The resonance of rushing waters can be heard as we approach. Once we arrived at the falls, it was flowing with a charitable amount of water. Another waterfall named Hidden Falls also shares this secluded area. Cedar Falls wraps in a twisted pattern along the smooth sandstone into a pool. The water flows out of the pool down into a rapid leading to the stream. We setup our tripods and selected several angles to photograph both waterfalls. The other falls is hidden in a little alcove but has particular camera-friendly qualities about it. We climbed down to join a few other photographers and captured great images.

We decided to stop for lunch along the road returning from Cedar Falls. I have a sixth sense about these things and it elbowed me to stop at Cedar Falls Inn and Spa. This is a welcoming log cabin arrangement. The chef greeted us as we past through the open kitchen into the dinning area. The soup and sandwich selection delivered to our table was a level above most. The homemade mushroom soup was scrumptious and the sandwich exceptional. I could not pass up the opportunity to enjoy the mixed berry cobbler. It would have been a dreadful mistake if I had.

Now to work off that filling lunch we proceeded to Old Mans Cave location.

Old Mans Cave Location:
This location is the primary stop amongst the Hocking Hills. The park headquarters, refreshment stand, facilities, and large parking area are all found here. The trail leading to the cave and then onto yet another waterfall is longer than the others are. The trail also has more steps beside complex terrain. (Caution when hiking the narrow worn out sandstone steps as when wet they can be hazardous)
The trail leads along the stream with impressive cascades rushing all along to the bottom waterfall. The trail has several access points from the parking area to be selected according to the task at hand and based on difficulty.
Some of the more photogenic opportunities are the cascade found at the beginning of the trail just below the park headquarters. This cascade falls just underneath a well-placed stone bridge. Hiking further down we came to a place aptly named the Devils Washtub. The water swirls into a whirlpool of churning chaos as it finds a path to cascade between a narrow gap in the rock. Just before we found the dissenting steps, leading to the lower falls is an S shaped outline in the stream. This feature is surrounded by woodland wonders and has a unique pictorial quality not to be overlooked.

At this point one can decide to descend along the path to the lower falls or return by way of the central access near the cave. We decide to begin our decent. The late day sun was emerging from the cloud shield spoiling the lower falls. A few remaining clouds allowed narrow windows to capture the falls in halfway decent light. Some children skipped stones along the turquoise pool.
Our return to the parking area was by climbing up the steep staircase found at the lower falls location. It is a good thing I took Lipitor beforehand.
Upon our return to the Holiday Inn, we decided to try the Mexican Cantina across the way. My sixth sense let me down this time. The food was standard fare with a little too much salt added in for good measure. We could have floated a lead weight on top of the salt that was laid to it. We started to wonder if the Dead Sea was still OK. We decided to find the nearest desalination plant for treatment before retiring.

NEXT DAY

Saturday, April 30th 2011

The Holiday Inn had complimentary breakfast ready at 6am and we took some time to enjoy coffee and such. Since much was accomplished the day of arrival, we decided to cancel a second night’s stay and return to Pittsburgh later in the day.

Our early start allowed us to revisit all of the locations we covered on Friday for a second opportunity to capture additional images. The coolness of morning slowly retreats as the warmth of a new spring day advanced.

Our first stop was Ash cave (route 56). The boisterous songbirds welcomed us in the cool of morning as we hiked the trail. The early light was much improved but the quantity of water was diminished. (Three cascading falls Friday reduced to 2 ½ the next day) It being a Saturday, weekend warrior photography enthusiast joined us at the cave. As expected, we found many more people running about all day long.

Our next stop was Cedar Cave (route 374) and we made an effort to seek even more creative image captures than the day before. (Again the water just overnight had diminished somewhat)

We decided to visit a location passed by the day before. Cockle’s Hollow is an interesting natural area set further apart from the other park features (Route 374). It is a refreshing hike back along the trail with high cliffs towering on both sides. The trail leads back to a small waterfall named Beckwith Falls. It is set deep into a dark alcove of rock. If the sunlight strikes the water at the perfect moment, it can be an interesting image capture.

Lunch was enjoyed at the Dinning Lodge buffet style. The selections are standard country fare and not bad. I over did it as is my habit; so off to Old Mans Cave to work it off. At this point, the bones began to complain a little.

Old Mans Cave was crowded with jubilant visitors. We took the center access point down into the gorge and hiked along the upper trail. Our image captures were rewarding. Our cup runs over with spring hiking and a cornucopia of waterfall photography. Our return to Pittsburgh was by Ohio 668 NE, 37 W, 668 N to Exit 141 on I 70 the East to Washington PA I 79 to Pittsburgh. Route 688 is a roller coaster ride of a road.

Evelyn had a refreshing dinner ready upon our homecoming.

THE END

Grand Teton and Yellowstone Trip 2010

Grand Teton & Yellowstone & Idaho Trip (2010)

“The winds of natures grace are always blowing. It is for us to raise our sails.” John Muir

Introduction

It was decided to select the last full week of September to visit Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks because this time of year offers outstanding autumn colors and wildlife activity.
These national parks are special gems among the 23 national parks that I have visited. The landscapes are second to none and the abundance of wildlife rivals that of Denali or any of the other parks I have been privileged to visit.
This year an experiment was proposed to enjoy the visit with friends from the Pittsburgh Photography Club. A finer assembly of friends could not be found. The experiment was a great success and all 16 of us had a great time practicing our passion for photography.
The weather was oddly warm and the sun pressed hot during midday. Each and every day presented clear skies and the opportunities to apply our art did not disappoint.

Saturday, September 25th 2010

My United Airways flight into Jackson Hole was uneventful. One should travel with the least encumbrance as possible. The Jackson Hole Airport is in a state of transition growing in size. After obtaining an Avis rental vehicle I was off and running. My plan to go down into Jackson and obtain supplies was thrown out the window as soon as the mighty Teton’s came into view. I got the photography equipment out and hit the park road near Moose Junction. The $25 admission fee was waved for the day.

The aspen and cottonwood scattered across vast fields of sagebrush had various stages of color. Those that had the finest golden colors stood proudly around Oxbow Bend in the northern section of the park along the Snake River. Since my previous visit during the spring of 2005, many more evergreen trees have been killed by the mountain pine bark beetle. About 18% of the trees are afflicted. Research is underway in an attempt to mitigate this appalling development. Other than that single darkness all else is grandeur and majesty beyond anything imaginable. It is difficult to explain and showing a picture to someone is like showing a picture of apple pie to a starving person; inadequate at best.

Although it was dry, the water continued to flow in the rivers, streams, marshes, and lakes. The dry climate requires that you apply lip balm and eye drops while in the area. The thin air of the elevated altitude becomes noticeable upon exertion.

After a dinner at Dornan’s near Moose Junction, I decided to make haste to my accommodations before they gave my room to somebody else. The location of the Snake River Lodge is in Teton Village and about 9 miles south of the Moose Junction park entrance in the southern section of Grand Teton National Park (GTNP). It is about 12 miles north of Jackson. At first this seemed an inconvenience but I soon discovered it a blessing in disguise. Moose Wilson road (MWR) is a pathway between the junction of Moose and route 22. I discovered while going to check in, that this roadway is one of the most active wildlife locations in the park and I dare say in the entire region. I had to fight my way through dozens of big gun photographers and a gauntlet of parked cars to reach the lodge. Several black bear were toiling at the berry harvest along the road and park rangers were making efforts to control the pressing onlookers. I was fearful that a bear working in a tree might fall onto my car as I drove by. Needless to say, I jumped out and tried to take some photographs but it was a circus. The light was muted by then and the bear were in a tangle of berry bush branches. I drove up a little past the congestion and another bear crossed the road in front of me and went up into a berry bush tree. Other people noticed me out snapping pictures and many started down to my newly discovered location. Wildlife photography like this is very difficult and I am sure even more difficult away from the roadways in the wilderness. One needs the correct equipment, skill, and knowledge to achieve quality wildlife images. In addition to this the really great wildlife images are those that have character, high quality, and impact. I noticed that the professionals all lined up away from the crowds with tripods and giant lenses biding their time. They knew that eventually the bear would make its way down to the waters edge and reflect in it. They patiently waited for the bear to make his way down and took the shot with a steady camera and considerable magnification. A novice photographer should not disregard what the professionals teach by example; they should try to mimic their behavior as if in a workshop.

Snake River Lodge is a well appointed accommodation. All that I will say is that Travelocity hooked me up. I would normally never stay in such a place but could not pass up the deal. The $25/day resort fee was waved upon request. The single base camp was decided because I have an affinity for the Teton’s more so than Yellowstone (YSNP) and planned to spend more time in and around Jackson Hole Valley. Each park has its charm but the Teton’s is the greater charm.

Sunday, September 26th 2010

The predawn heavens were filled with silver starlight and bright moonlight. It is a lamentable thing to become dismissive of Gods wonders. Each and every chance to embrace the magic of such spectacle must be treasured while breath is gifted to us.

Traversing MWR during the darkness of predawn is a foreboding undertaking. The considerable likelihood that big game should wonder out onto the dark unlit roadway had me grip the steering wheel more tightly. The bright moonlight assisted matters. A kingly bull elk stood pompously along the roadside as the high beams illuminated him and not long afterward his noble bugle echoed across the woodlands.

My early morning goal was a place called Schwabachers Landing. Upon my arrival I was infuriated to find three ill-bred Neanderthals out in the water on a make shift platform that was unlawfully placed. About 30 other photographers joined me in my anger as the sun shed light upon the classic image. Our collective protest failed to remove them and only afterward did I contemplate the one action that might have succeeded. We should have called the rangers and told them of the crime and that wildlife habitat was currently being contaminated and destroyed by three criminals. 20/20 hindsight never helps anything. The classic sunrise shot could not be captured and so alternative work was done. I would return another day in hopes to capture this rewarding view; the Grand Teton reflecting into a mirror beaver pond based by evergreens and aspen.

Onward to Oxbow Bend I went. The cottonwoods and aspen in this location are well along and become more colorful each day. Mount Moran reflects into a calm bend of the Snake River as do the golden trees along its banks. I explored the area around this iconic location to discover many additional perspectives of Mount Moran. The roadway just above the turnout location leads back to an inlet that very well could offer wildlife opportunities in the early or late hours. Along this road are many compositional offerings of Mount Moran. The brilliant sunlit trees from behind are spectacular.

Pacific Creek Road, not far from Oxbow Bend, is also brimming with vivid aspen and many photographers joined me in exploring this area.

I ventured along the park road to Signal Mountain and climbed up, by car, to the first overlook. I parked and walked to the right for the viewpoint; from here one can see the inspiring mountains at a lofty position. I had to pause and take it all in at that time. One should always take some time to embrace the moment and stop long enough to smell the sagebrush and evergreen. I put the camera down and sat on a fallen tree for a few moments of reflection.

My friends Akshay and Arshi were also in the area, unbeknownst to me. Going back down to meet them at Signal Mountain Lodge Café for lunch, a black bear was showing off by the roadside. I did not get a chance to photograph him but many cars stopped to take a look.

I met Akshay and Arshi for lunch at the Peaks Restaurant and enjoyed a Ruben Sandwich. We enjoyed talking about all that we had experienced so far. They both gave me a full YSNP report. Arshi told of how the bison crossed the road to delay traffic for some time and of the sulfur odor. Sulfur can be a problem when you are traveling on top of the largest active volcano in the world. They could not help but notice my bloodshot eyes and fatigued look. My childlike excitement had me going on all cylinders since getting off the aircraft but my energy was depleted.

As I returned to the south my progress was yet again halting as wildlife along the roadside made its appearance. A prideful bull Elk escorting his ladies across the silver sagebrush pranced long enough for me to capture a few shots of him. I made my way down to Jackson for supplies at Smiths groceries. Dinner was enjoyed at El Abuelito, a highly recommended and local favorite Mexican restaurant along Broadway.

Monday, September 27th 2010

After the fiasco at Schwabachers Landing the morning before, I decided to try again this morning and found the location much more pleasant. Today was a day of exploration in and around the park. I explored up to the south gate of Yellowstone and turned back. The dazzling lemon colors all along the northern sections of the park left me stunned.

My mission was to find uncommon picturesque views of the Teton Range. The common iconic locations are matchless but I would rather try to locate unique points of view as well. The day grew hot as the bright sun bathed the valley. I viewed a large Bison herd in the distance as I traveled.

I made my way down the park road to Lupine Meadows Road. I had no idea what would be discovered once the parking lot was found at its end. The trees simply blaze back in this location as the sunlight filters through them. Big granite rocks colonize the ground to add unique dimension to the views. The mountains tower behind and made me feel like a small insect.

Upon my return to Moose Junction I could not help but notice a large encampment of big gun photographer’s around the bridge area. The Moose family was the attraction. I had to stop and be counted among them. As I approached the question was asked if Elvis had returned from the dead. I joined the vigil but found not long into it that my battery was flashing the red warning light. What to do? I told the professionals standing around and some offered to help with spare batteries but no match was available. All were patiently waiting for the big Bull Moose to stand up and show off for everyone and at a very close range. I had a spare at the car about 200 yards away. The pro’s told me I had better run to get it because I would most probably never again have a close range chance at a Bull Moose like this again. So I jogged to the car, got the spare, staggered back, and as I approached a symphony of shutters chattered all at once. The Bull Moose stood up at that moment and I got several good shots of him. He returned to his bedded position not 5 minutes afterward. The comradery of the art was never so celebrated afterward, with high fives and hand shakes to last the rest of the week- touchdown!

Dinner was enjoyed at nearby Dornan’s Bar & Grill.

Tuesday, September 28th 2010

Considering that I needed light to photograph the abundant wildlife on MWR I decided to get a late start today. The sun was up and I started around 720am. It was a carnival of activity, as expected; the big guns had taken all the parking spaces near the hot spot. What I am about to explain is not overstated. At one small marshy location near the road two cow Moose were in the water feeding, two black bear were in the berry bushes, and a lordly bull Elk emerged from cover to take a gander at the event just up the road, all at the same time and within a 20 yard radius. The rangers had no idea what to do. They threw up their hands and tried to make the best of it. I positioned myself as the pro’s were doing down by the waters edge and got the reflection shot of a bear drinking water. Later a full-sized bear was crossing the road to go down to the water and meandered so close to us that we could have reached out to pet him. His harsh eyes told us we dare not and I backed away with purposeful speed. This is not just a national park but a wildlife safari.

After I had my fill at the safari, I decided to try the barns along Mormon Row and did so. A few prong horned Deer frolicked in nearby auburn grass. Since the proximity is close, I decided to venture down Antelope Flats road and onto Gros Ventre Road. Several miles back is Lower Slide Lake. The turquoise lake was adorned with chartreuse cottonwood trees and autumn blooming wildflowers.

The road becomes more isolated the further back one drives. I decided to stop at Crystal Creek and have my box lunch. The big sky country and hushed solitude brought a spiritual calm to me. I decided to put the camera away and sit near the creek to enjoy lunch. The musical water was glacier cold as it splashed along its predestined path.

On my return trip I stopped again at the lake and watched three beautiful Trumpeter Swans land in the distant waters. An old dilapidated homestead is near the end of the road going back into Jackson Hole and offers a perfect picture window to frame the Grand Teton in. I had to get some height to position the frame well. Down in the small community of Kelly is an interesting old wagon that has fallen apart and offers a good foreground to frame the mountains in. A big Bison herd was marching across the prairie heading to 191 junction.

Going back down MWR, later in the day, a change was noticed. The park rangers blocked off any parking within 1 mile of the wildlife activity zone and had an increased presence. Bear remained very busy in the area as I drove by them working on the berries.

Wednesday, September 29th 2010

Today was the long trek up into Yellowstone. I got a 3:30am start traveling MWR with great care then at Moose got onto 191 north and made my way to meet my good friend Sam at Lake Lodge. At 6:30 in the morning Sam and I made our way to Canyon Falls for a predawn shoot. The lower falls in the canyon are an iconic image of America. The water surge was abundant and the presence of place while standing at Artist Point is enigmatic. We shot many long exposures at different compositional perspectives. Once the sun directed its rays onto the waterfalls it was time to depart and find other wonders.

In our exploration of the park we stopped at celebrated geothermal features such as Artist Paint Pots, Prismatic Spring, Mud Pots, Sulfur Cauldron, and others. Since this is the unsurpassed geothermal site on earth the geysers and other attractions seem infinite. It is remarkable to witness the extremophile life that endures among the boiling waters and acidic steam. The Grand Prismatic Spring is the principal example of this. The brilliant multicolored abstract around the cerulean pool is caused by various types of extreme life that lives around the pools edge.

Our stop at Old Faithful was as expected, faithful, and right on time for the predictable eruption. The new visitor’s center is a very nice addition since my last visit. The western style buffet lunch at Old Faithful Inn was enjoyable. The famous Inn is constructed from enormous timbers of lodge-pole pine and other nearby materials. It flaunts a towering convoluted ceiling with elaborate pathways to guestrooms.

The American Bison is the apex of the parks fauna hierarchy based upon numbers and accessibility to spectators. They march alongside roadways and come very close to people taking pictures. They can be deceptively tolerant of human presence and thus the cause of several goring each year. It was at this time we decided to take a coffee break just to help us stay awake for the good light later in the day. We spotted an Elk and his harem up on a hill and tried to get some shots of them.

Dinner was enjoyed back at Lake Lodge café with the team. We had a great time talking of the days events and plans for the next morning. Kal, Bob, Mary, Frank, Laura, Rose Marie, Sam, and I were all present. The next days plan was to hike Red Rock Trail down to an overlook of lower Canyon Falls.

Thursday, September 30th 2010

With flashlights at the ready we hiked down the 500 foot Red Rock Trail to lower Canyon Falls. Much of the trail is wooden steps leading down to the overlook. Kal helped us apply our art with masterful instruction. Once the sunlight began to shine upon the canyon we made a paced retreat to the Hayden Valley. Fog and steam rolled up from the waters around a Bison Herd. Frost was backlit on each of their powerful shoulders and the Hayden Valley was alive in the coolness of dawn. They marched along the roadside consuming the grass as they went. The sun just began to shine creating superb backlighting. We all stopped, got out, and made the best of the opportunity. The magic of light is best in early morning no matter where one might be.

We all gathered to enjoy a hardy breakfast back at the café. Don’t worry, by this time the good light was diminished and we took advantage of it while we had the opportunity.

At this point our group decidedly went in different directions. As Sam and I progressed along the Madison River we noticed a multitude of tourist pulled off to the roadside. A Hartford Insurance Company Bull Elk was in the river surrounded by his ladies. We stopped and took advantage of the opportunity to capture striking wildlife at relatively close courtiers. The Bull Elk stood fearless protected by ice cold waters.

West Yellowstone is a small gateway town crammed with touristy shops and stores. We proceeded through a small section of Montana and into Idaho. Seeing the potato farmers applying their trade was fascinating. We stopped to talk to a group of workers as they processed the harvest. In addition to this, Mesa Falls along the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway was also interesting to witness. The waterfall is impressive and has an upper and lower tear. The lower tear is distant and inaccessible. We could only capture record shots from a distance in the harsh afternoon light. The road was long and the distant Teton Range grew closer as time drew on. Teton pass from the Idaho side over to Jackson is a 10% grade up and down. I have traversed more formidable roads in my day but never enjoy doing so. God help you if the car breaks go out.

We made it back to Jackson by 6pm and we all meet at the Cadillac Grill adjacent to the Cowboy Bar to share a nice dinner. I had Bison Brisket in savory gravy and several others recommend the scrumptious Alaskan Halibut. Many art photography galleries can be found in town and I stopped to visit a few of them. Some of the work gave me ideas for my next and last day of photography in the region.

Friday, October 1st 2010

Sam and I met at Schwabachers Landing. I was delayed on MWR for obvious reasons. At this point I decided to try one of those energy drinks that are selling so well these days. They really work.

We explored the park road and stopped at various locations all over the valley. Lunch was obtained at Dornan’s deli and they make a great “to order” sandwich. We decided to join the other photographers and wait for the Bull Moose to pose for us near the bridge and so he did after about 45minutes.

The boat shuttle that delivers people to and from Cascade Canyon Trailhead was yet open for its last day of the season. While hiking Jenny Lake trail the bugle of several Elk could be heard. After a 1 hour hike along Jenny Lake trail we returned to the boat launch and took it across to the mountains lakeside base. Reports from others told of how the waters of Hidden Falls were not flowing and that the cascade was flowing at a minimal rate. We decided to return rather than huff it up the mountain not to mention that the last shuttle would depart in a half hour.

I was dead on my feet at this point so I made my retreat to the lodge and agreed to meet Sam at his cabin in Jackson later on. At the cabins we reviewed the days events with the crew then had a late dinner at El Abuelito.

Saturday, October 2nd 2010

After a week spent like this I am ready for any fate. It is a heartrending day to depart God’s country. I somberly packed up everything, filled the rental with gas, and made way to the airport. The return flight was uneventful. I am presently suffering from Post Traumatic Grand Teton Disorder. The Doctor said it will pass after a few weeks. This scribbling, no matter how industriously written, offers only hints to persuade those that read them to feast at natures table.

My Grand Teton & Yellowstone Report is at hand.