Alaska Summer 2008 Adventure

Alaskan Adventure 2008

On this first Alaskan adventure, I was joined by my cousins from southern California and we visited our cousin and family whom live in Eagle River north of Anchorage. Curt, Roxanne, and Emily were the best and most gracious hosts anyone could ever wish to have.

During our weeklong odyssey, over 1800 miles were traveled by rental car and over 1200 digital image captures were made. We covered as much territory as humanly possible while time we had. All aspects of the trip are covered including photography locations and wildflower conditions and weather. A few good tips are also included to anyone thinking about a visit.

This trip log will most probably be the longest I have ever written; therefore, interested readers should print out a copy. Readers might find some useful information among the passages. Only a few images will be on the trip log the others will be in the gallery. In the gallery the image will first appear in low quality then in better quality, they are small to save time in uploading them.

http://picasaweb.google.com/ricklionheart222

Please leave a comment after you have finished reading.

Friday, July 11th 2008

The daylong flight into Anchorage was by Northwest Airlines and Alaskan Airlines from Seattle Washington. Alaskan airlines were notably better than Northwest airlines in hospitality and service. The Seattle airport has a rather complex maze to navigate going from Northwest gates to the Alaskan gates. You need to travel by two different transport trains to reach the Alaskan airline gates.

Across this rich nation, farmlands stretch as far as the eye can see, even at 35,000 feet.

Curt met us at the airport and escorted us back to his home. Curt and Roxanne’s home is nestled among majestic mountains in the midst of Chugach State Park along Eagle River Road. Their home is arranged with a great assortment of elegant art. Curt is an accomplished outdoorsman and displays an impressive collection of hunting trophies that include a brown bear skin; that is luxurious to the touch. An enormous shoulder mount of an arctic Muskoxen that he received an award for, a black bear skin, several mountain goats, and other trophies.

Roxanne’s taste in art and her outstanding fabric art is on display all around the house. We found that Emily is a wonderful cook.
Later in the evening, Roxanne and I went to Chugach State Park and found a moose feeding in a roadside marsh then it was back to the airport to pick up Monty and Larry my wonderful cousins from southern California. It has been many a moon since last I spent quality time with them.
Curt and Roxanne’s miniature dachshund was a welcome high-energy bundle of fun and took a liking to me, as it should be with all those that I encounter.

Saturday July 12th 2008

Curt joined us for a day of good old fun. We enjoyed an early morning hike in the state park. We spotted a Bald Eagle perched on a treetop. The mountains along the hike are grand. Eagle River flows through the valley and bright fireweed grows along its banks.

The Bear Paw festival in Eagle River was fun with street performer’s entertaining the crowds and the Slippery Salmon Olympics was in full swing. Contestants need to carry a wet salmon in one hand while in the other hand a serving tray with various items to the finish line. It looked like a lot of fun.

We took a ride into Anchorage to visit Hood Lake and the Aviation Museum. Hood Lake has the greatest concentration of small floatplanes in the country.

The museum is a work in progress and has a nice number of interesting aviation exhibits inside and out.

We then proceeded to pick up the rental car at ABC RV and car rental near the airport. The car they had set aside for us was not the best on the lot to say the least. Monty complained and the owner’s wife instructed the service person to give us a better car. We were offered a newer but smaller car that worked out fine for the whole trip.

After the car pickup, Curt took us to a famous Anchorage Saloon known as Chilkoot Charlie’s. This rough around the edges saloon is a combination of many different themed bars all under one roof. Its eclectic atmosphere is a maze of fun. We all had a nice beer and caught up on lost time.

Curt and Roxanne along with Emily treated us all to a perfect Alaskan king crab dinner. The sesame cabbage salad was superb and the King Crab legs were huge. Curt then treated us to some sophisticated liquors.

Sunday July 13th 2008

Today we hit the road very early in the morning and went north to explore the Glenn Highway. The weather was not favorable during most of the trip but it never is too bad for very long. The weather can change from one moment to the next but did remain generally overcast much of the week. The temperatures remained comfortably cool each day between 50°F and 65°F.
We stopped at Thunder Bird waterfalls and hiked the two-mile trail. The falls gushed with torrents of mountain snowmelt and the air was invigorating. It’s important to bring along deet bug repellent because of the innumerable small ponds and standing pools that help the misquotes breed. Anyone that reports little or no mosquito troubles obviously did not get too far away from the car during their trip.

Palmer is a relatively small town and from there we traveled to the Muskoxen farm. We took the tour and photographed these prehistoric survivors of the arctic. The combed fur of these animals, called Qiviut, is lavish and resultant fiber is costly and well sought after.

The Glenn Highway offered a plethora of photographic opportunities and slowed our progress considerably as we traveled down the famous road. Two frequently repeated words that we used, as we drove down the road, were “Awesome and WOW”.

The sun came out around two in the afternoon and we arrived at our destination, the Matanuska Glacier. This flowing river of ice is spectacular to view from a distance. It actually looks like a silver blue river flowing down the valley. We noticed the Long Rifle Lodge near mile marker 100 and it looks like a respectable place to stay. Another lodging option nearby is Sheep Mountain Lodge that also has a nice restaurant.
On our return trip to Anchorage we decided to stop at Independence mine and Hatcher pass. The first 10 miles back is not impressive if that is possible in Alaska. However, after the first 10 miles a mountainous region begins to appear lush with emerald green forest. Snow melt waters surge down a brook and across huge boulders all along the roadway leading to the mine. It is very much like a storybook fantasyland. A mysterious haunting atmosphere around the elderly mine was enhanced by low rolling clouds and fog. This unbelievably scenic route is highly recommended with pristine alpine brooks and verdant mountains.

Our first day of exploration was outstanding and regardless of imperfect weather was very enjoyable.

Monday, July 14th 2008

Early in the morning, we left the Eagle River area and started south into the Kenai Peninsula region. The landscape of Kenai Peninsula brazenly assaults new arrivals with a merciless and crippling array of breathtaking beauty. Majestic snow capped mountains tower above valleys on all sides, turquoise lakes and flowing streams adorn the low lands as wild flowers, and evergreens proudly boast their splendor. This ostentatious display made it difficult to travel to the destination we set out for in a timely manner. Although countless turnouts are provided along the way, they are not enough for the photographer. Many times we had to pull off the roadside to photograph outstanding views. It is just too big for the camera and some scenic wonders had to be passed by simply because the camera was powerless to capture it.
Along the Seward Highway are several pullouts that feature trailheads, waterfalls, picnic areas, and scenic overlooks of the Turnagain Arm.
We would have liked to travel up Girdwood road but time would not allow it. We did stop at the Portage Glacier area. The road back to Portage Glacier is stunning. Waterfalls and blue ice around the mountains abound. We arrived just in the nick of time to catch the boat going out. As soon as we got on board the ship left for the tour; this was a lucky time saver. There is just too much fresh air and the cold wind from the lake filled our lungs with life. The boat ride cost $30 and is well worth the price. The flashcard memory is being filled up too fast. One tip to photographers thinking about a visit is to bring double the flashcard memory that you think needed.

After our pleasurable time at Portage Glacier, we decided to go to Whittier by way of a one-lane mountain tunnel. The toll is $12 and each car needs to wait in line for the next group that takes turns going to and from Whittier. On the other side, Whittier is a working seaport that receives cruise ships and transports people and cars to Valdez. It is a run down community and in my opinion is too time consuming to visit, it is not recommended.

When we finally arrived in Seward, our dinner was enjoyed at Chinooks Waterfront. The lobster bisc was appetizing while the grilled stuffed halibut had crab cream cheese filling that set it apart from the common. Monty treated us to a toast of Crown Royal and we explored the Seward area. Fishermen brought their catch of halibut and other fish to nearby docks for processing. We noticed when driving down the road, south of town, along the bay, that sea otters were playing near shore.
We found Salmon Creek Cabins off Nash Road a little north of Seward. It was back along some rather rustic run down properties but once settled in, was not too bad of a cabin. The owner was not at home when we first arrived but the door was open and the welcome sign was out. Later I talked with some anglers staying in one of the other cabins and asked them about wildlife locations. It is always a good idea to ask locals where the best locations are. They gladly told me that just a few miles down Seward Highway off Bear Lake road is a small spot where a Grizzly bear and her cub have been frequenting. Well, once we found the place local children road their bikes around and several cars parked near the site. We stopped by the location several times but did not have a chance to see her. We walked around the salmon creek that she liked and it was somewhat spooky knowing that at any moment she might appear. I noticed that seagulls and a few Bald Eagles also frequent the location to scavenge scraps left behind. When the kids ride their bikes around a nearby blind curve on the road they make all kinds of noise as is common practice in bear country. A surprised grizzly with a cub is nothing to fool with. It’s much better to let them know you are coming beforehand. Many salmon congregated in the waters swimming up stream and we could see them jumping over nearby waterfalls.

The other wildlife location that a local told us of was just off our cabin on Nash road. A short distance down the road is a large marsh area that moose frequent to feed on the willows. Again, the wildlife eluded us at this site also. However, the marsh exhibits a perfect reflection of the mountain with wildflowers in the foreground. If time will allow traveling down back roads can be well worth the effort. Nonetheless, the best views are most often found when hiking on trails among mountains and streams; just be careful to make noise and do not hike alone.

Tuesday, July 25th 2008

This morning is our 6-hour tour of Kenai Fjords National Park and Resurrection Bay. Our boat is the Aialik Voyager by Kenai Fjords Tours.
I was beginning to feel a little sleep depravation at this point. It will not get dark until about 11pm and the light returns around 4am but it never gets fully dark only twilight. This can have an effect on sleep and the light lets a photographer keep on keeping on longer than the old body would like. I was going on adrenaline from this point forward.

Resurrection Bay is a magnificent area. Mountains are all about and interesting sea stacks along with small islands populate the bay. The inhabitants of these fascinating rocky crags are all manner of wildlife. Sea otters play, puffins fly, and stellar sea lions huddle together sunning themselves among the rocks. Yes, the sun did show through the clouds every so often during our tour. The boat captain was keen to tell us his strategy in finding as much wildlife for us to see as possible. He had a colorful personality and did his level best with the short time he had.
I found that it is important to keep my hands free and warm as it is about ten degrees cooler in the bay and the wind created by the boats movement added to the chill. Bring gloves and do not get coffee while on board. Have a good breakfast at Seward diner before the trip.
We found several dolphin like swimmers putting on a show and a mink whale breached the water line with a big splash. We also got to see a humpback whale breach the water line and make an even bigger splash much to everyone’s delight. A few Bald Eagles perched above on tree tops looked valiantly down upon our boat passing by.
The boat arrived at Aialik Glacier and it was bigger and more imposing than Portage Glacier was. After the boat stops and is hushed, one can listen to the glacier crack and thunder with a cavernous drum like moan. The thick snow packed ice moves and cracks with a haunting voice that echoes across the frost cold waters. It is almost like being able to hear a giant that is approaching but cannot see it. Then suddenly heavy ice and packed blue snow falls to the frigid waters below sending out an explosive boom and a tidal wave big enough to surf on. Seeing and hearing an enormous glacier calve is a thrilling experience. Our boat tour was very well done and is recommended.

After our boat trip, we began our return trip back to Cousin Curt’s. It was slow going on the way home because of all of the overwhelming scenery. We decided to stop at the Alaskan wildlife conservancy to make double darn sure we got some wildlife photographs. The wildlife at this point has been more elusive than what was expected. When we arrived in Anchorage, we stopped at Little Italy for dinner and the food was great. The Greek spaghetti with feta cheese and olive oil was particularly tasty. It’s a place that comes recommended.

Wednesday, July 16th 2008

Today we drive 270 miles north to Denali National Park. The first half of the journey was, relative to what we experienced the last few days, not as picturesque. However, the closer we approached the park the landscape opened up to a completely new understanding.

Talkeetna is an interesting stop along the way and worth the side trip from off Park Road. Talkeetna has several small shops and is a genuine frontier town. Along the only road going though town is the Roadhouse. This is a celebrated place to stop and have breakfast with its own bakery. We went inside to find an eclectic time-honored atmosphere that has a welcoming ambiance. Common large tables are set about in the dinning room where anybody can take a chair and sit with others; much like one might do at home. The food is promptly brought out once ordered and the hardy breakfast was quite good. If you choose anything that is not on the breakfast menu it is classified as “Not Breakfast” and selections are posted on a chalk board. The fresh baked goods are displayed in a case at the front counter and after sampling one of them, I must recommend them with my highest regards.

About 50 miles south of the park, the scenery becomes impressive. We stopped many times to make photographs and at the north and south lookouts of Mount McKinley. Much to our chagrin the legendary McKinley was shrouded in low clouds and could not be seen at all. Mount McKinley has a larger bulk and rise than Mount Everest. Even though the summit of Everest is about 9,000 feet higher as measured from sea level, its base sits on the Tibetan Plateau at about 17,000 feet, giving it a real vertical rise of a little more than 12,000 feet. The base of Mount McKinley is roughly a 2,000-foot plateau, giving it an actual rise of 18,000 feet.

We found the Perch Resort about 10 miles south of the park entrance. The cabins were rustic but slightly more refined than Salmon Creek Cabins. The establishment compensates for its rustic charm with a well refined dinning room. We enjoyed a hardy dinner of fresh broiled halibut over wild rice with dill sauce and grilled vegetables. The homemade blue cheese dressing was extra good and the warm bread added a touch of old country charm to the experience. Topping it off was the addition of a scrumptious homemade blueberry pie.

Thursday, July 17th 2008

It was a very early to rise day and crisp arctic air wished us a good morning. We had to make it to the Wilderness Access Center by 5am to board the first bus going into the park. When we arrived, all was in order and we set out into Denali. The bus is a basic school bus without any accommodations so it is important to bring food and drinks with you. We also had binoculars and our camera equipment. A tripod is of little use on the bus and stops are limited, unless one wishes to hike around. Since much of the photography is out of the window of the bus and hand held I increased my ISO setting to around 800 or even higher and used shutter priority at about 400-500/s. I also brought along a few Advil to take later in the day because the bus will shake rattle and roll most of the 85 mile trip and another 85 miles back. Only a single road traverses the park. Some folks brought along seat pads, which is not a bad idea if you have room for them. For a photographer it is important to find a window seat with a working window and that it is on the driver’s side of the bus. The driver’s side going into the park offers better views of the wild and untamed landscape.

Although the weather was not favorable, the park is so immense that it transcends weather conditions in its ability to awe visitors. The landscape is feral arctic tundra with low growing multicolored wildflowers all along the road and across the land. Mosaic hills and mountains rise above the tundra with remarkable form and shape. As the bus lurched into the park bouncing over rough road the driver spotted a moose feeding in a marsh just off to the side. Further along, the driver kept watch for other wildlife and found it. We saw artic hare, grizzly bear, caribou, red-tailed fox, eagles, and the Alaskan state bird the Willow Ptarmigan. About half of the wildlife was too distant to photograph. Several visitor centers and key overlooks are along the road and the driver stops to allow us to get out and stretch every hour or so. The bus was about half full on departure but was loaded on the return trip because it will pick up backpackers and others along the way.
By the time the adventure is concluded it was time for dinner that was again held at the Perch Resort dinning room. This time I enjoyed delicious sautéed Alaskan scallops with mashed potatoes and we shared a superb crab cake appetizer. Encouraged by my energetic cousins, I joined them in going back to the park after dinner to hike at Horseshoe Lake inside the park. A moose was feeding in the lake and we managed to get quite close to her and made several close up photographs of her.
All in all Denali was a fascinating adventure, however it is also quite a gamble in viewing wildlife and in its willingness to reveal the great one. Perhaps I will have another opportunity to see the celebrated mountain in the near future.

Another note to anyone planning a trip is that two accommodations are just outside the park entrance and looked nice. Denali River Cabins and a place simply called Grizzly Bear.

Friday, July 18th 2008

We decided it was time to sleep in for once during our trip and got up relatively late around 730am. We enjoyed our complementary breakfast and set out on a rainy morning. I felt a little let down because of sleep depravation, not getting to see Mount McKinley, and the continued dark overcast weather. Clouds can accent landscape photography nicely and have done so several occurrences during the trip but the continual overcast got me down. On the way south back to Anchorage we stopped at the Etluka Village to photograph the Russian Orthodox Church and cemetery. Each grave in the cemetery has built above it a colorful spirit house. Some of them are fairly ornate. We made good time back to Eagle River and stopped to have lunch at Carl’s Jr. a burger joint.

Later in the evening the whole family got together for dinner at a place in Eagle River called the Haute Grill. It was an outstanding eatery with sophisticated selections and hardy portions. All of the chosen entries looked mouth-watering. I had the Seafood Gumbo that was filled with shrimp, mussels, scallops, and clams.

Saturday July 19th 2008

At the last minute we all decided to make the 270 mile road trip to Homer and return in one day. It was doable and a long hard trip but we would discover well worth the added effort. Early in the morning we hit the road and traveled back down into the spectacular Kenai Peninsula. At the junction of where the Seward and Sterling Highway meet we took the Sterling Highway. The scenic mountain landscape is jaw dropping along the route; mountains after endless mountain embellish our course.
Near Cooper Landing we stopped at the Sunrise Café for a hardy Breakfast. A few local anglers talked of the fishing conditions and what was going on around the village. The Sterling Highway is a little different than Seward Highway in that more facilities and accommodations are along the road way. Many anglers are fishing for Salmon in the Russian River along the route. The river is a beautiful torques blue.

It was a crisp 45°F morning. There is simply too much beauty to cover in a single trip, the side roads need to be explored; we should be hiking on the trails, not enough time to cover the extensive region.

When we reach the southward stretch of the road going to Homer a sudden white snowcapped chain of mountains appears across Cook Inlet. They are distant enough to make them difficult to photograph but not so much that they are not appreciated by the human eye. All along the Cook Inlet going to Homer the wild lupine grows in abundance and they are at peak blossom. Fields and endless fields of lavender blooms are everyplace and along the roadway. The copious fireweed in this location had yet to start its bloom but was only a few days away from doing so. From what I have noticed it seems that when the lupine begins to fad the fireweed begins to bloom and that each location is different in when that happens by a week or two.

Just outside Homer on top of the hill where the welcome sign is located is a large pullout and scenic overlook. In this location is a perfect spot to photograph Bald Eagles in flight. At the far north corner of the overlook is a deep gully where the eagles like to ride the thermals. We saw many eagles, some two at a time riding the thermals then landing in nearby trees.

Along the Homer spit are old shipyards with rustic ramshackle fishing boats and interesting properties of local folks. Further down near the end is a menagerie of shops, fishing charters, restaurants, and other tourist attractions. The one place that stands out among the others is the Salty Daug Saloon. This light house style building has an interior with walls covered in one dollar bills. Each dollar bill has a story to tell, could they speak. It is a wild and landmark location on the Homer spit.
We had our lunch at an unpretentious restaurant across from the Salty Daug, explored the beach area as cold inlet wind chilled our bones, and slowly made our way back to the car. We could not linger too long because my cousins had to catch their flight back home.

On our return trip we stopped at several locations passed by on the way down. Among them was the Russian Orthodox Church at Ninilchik. This church and the high perch it sits on are exceptionally photogenic. It has a green Russian bochka-roof and white siding in the traditional style. The yard around it is populated with many orthodox tomb sights and crosses. Wildflowers grow among the tombs and along the white picket fence that surrounds the church. Across the inlet a volcano can be seen with steam at its crown. It is a photographers dream.
We stopped at Saint Elias Brewery near Soldotna and had the sampler of beers that they brew. We did not order any food but I could not help notice that what food they brought out looked very good.

There is a large marsh area at the junction of Sterling and Seward highways. A beautiful snowcapped mountain reflects into it and the grass and willows in the marsh make for a picture postcard image that shouts out ALASKA! Along the road home a huge rainbow appereard in the sky. The biggest and best rainbow that I ever saw. It was a sign of hope for the next visit to this great land.

When we reached Anchorage and before going to the airport we had a late dinner at Gwennie’s Old Alaskan Restaurant on Spenard Road. This is a cool place to have a bite to eat and portions are hardy. Inside is a wishing well and a collection of Alaskan frontier items.
All three of us were very sad to see each other go but such is life.

Sunday, July 20th 2008

The last day was relaxed a time to reflect on all that happened. On the way out to Anchorage off Eagle River Road, in the distance, we could see the great one. Its white snow covered beatuy greeting us and wishing us well until next time. Later in the day I returned the rental car and Curt, Roxane, me, and mother went to an Anchorage sushi buffet. Curt introduced me to sushi and I found it to be very good.
The flight home was uneventful but long and hard.

Some people give their hearts to a sport or a job or even a material thing to the exclusion of all else. But there are those that are captivated by a vast unspoiled land, a land of snow capped mountains and silver ice fields, a place where endless evergreens stretch across the valleys and wildlife runs free over vast tundra. A realm called Alaska. If you are smart, you will visit this land at least one time during this very short life. I intend to return very soon.

GOD BLESS AMERICA