June 24 2005
Upon my arrival Eric meet me at the airport and we were off and running.
Eric’s family has a very nice home that was comfortable and inviting. The dog and cat loved me, as it should be with all those I encounter.
After being acclimated to the area, Eric and I explored the Columbia River Gorge vicinity on the Oregon side of the river. This realm is blanketed in lush green forest and waterfalls abound. As we took every opportunity to stop and admire each waterfall we encountered a foolhardy dare devil whom base jumped from the top of one of the more spectacular falls. This was a big surprise because we had no idea that he was up at the top ready to do this at the time it occurred. It was a very short distance for base-jumping and if his shut did not deploy perfectly it would have been a bad time, but everything worked out.
The Columbia River Gorge is very dynamic and so many features of its beauty would require many years to fully appreciate. However, we only had a day and we did the best we could. We had lunch at the base of the most impressive falls in the region; Multnomah Falls. This ostentatious waterfalls cascades down a steep precipice in two tears creating a dazzling picture. The hiking path leads to a bridge that spans across the bottom of the first tear. The immensity of the primordial forest was too great to comprehend with my inadequate intellect. Great fur trees and red cedar tower above, clothed in a gracefully woven patchwork of moss.
Our exploration of the Columbia River Gorge area on the first Saturday after my arrival put us one day ahead of schedule. Therefore, on Sunday we made it a day getting to the coast. Along the way to Canon Beach in Oregon, we found many interesting farmlands and the countryside was blanketed in wildflowers. We stopped on Highway 26 and had breakfast at the Elderberry Inn and Restaurant. This was a lucky find, as the breakfast was very good and much to my surprise homemade strawberry jelly was brought out for our enjoyment. This jelly was so good I ordered a pint to go. We found Canon Beach to be quite a tourist town and access to the famous Hay Stack Rock out on the beach is limited. Eric and I stopped and had lunch at a new establishment close to the beach.
Just outside the tourist town of Canon Beach is Ecola State Park. The view of Canon beach from the viewpoint area inside Ecola State Park is very pleasant and many postcard photographs one might see of it are captured from this park area. During this time, the climate was cool and overcast with a lite drizzle most of the day. We spent the day in and around the coastal regions of Oregon then made our way to the town of Astoria to lodge overnight at the Red Lion Inn.
On Monday morning, we got an early start and had a complimentary breakfast at the Inn. We crossed over into Washington State again and proceeded up route 101 north along the coast. Fog and drizzle accompanied us during our drive. An engaging observation during this section of the trip is that brightly colored Foxglove grows wild along the roadside in abundance. Eric and I observed a few Elk in fields along the way but not in the great quantity that we had hoped.
Sol Duc Falls
At Southbend Washington, the Oyster harvesting industry is very big. We stopped and I photographed some of the Oystermen at work. They load huge traps onto the boats and sail out to gather others then place the empty ones. It was fascinating to see the operation in action.
The lumber industry is also an enormous part of the Northwest economy. Countless logging trucks race down the roads with tons of logs. The clear-cut areas are replanted with new trees and like a colossal farm; the hillsides and woodlands are harvested according to a specific schedule. This schedule is posted along the roadside.
Highway 101 winds its way up along the coast and inland going to Olympic National Park. We stopped at Ruby beach and found many tidal pools with starfish and sea anemone trapped on the beach. The sea stacks are numerous and the beach is covered with a mosaic of rainbow painted rocks. While we left the Ruby beach area, I noticed a sign indicating the tsunami evacuation route.
Traveling up route 101, we stop at the Quinalt Rainforest and then the Hoh Rain Forest. Both rainforest are stunning but time did not permit us to investigate them fully. Countless old growth trees dwell within this forest. These Douglas fur and Western Red Cedar are thousands of years old and tower high above creating a canopy. Bulky mounds of green moss drape over everything. Eric asked a person if they knew the location of “The Hall of Moses” because I told him such a place existed inside the rainforest. The funny thing was that the true name of the place is “The Hall of Mosses” so we all had a big laugh and I will need to go back to school and learn to read again.
Upon arriving at Lake Crescent Lodge inside Olympic National Park, we checked in and found our room. The lodge is old and well preserved in its age. The main sitting area has a large fireplace with a stone hearth. A great Elk head hangs on the wall above the fireplace and Native American Indian Mask’s decorate the lobby all around. After settling in, I had dinner inside the lodge restaurant. The restaurant is a four-star gourmet experience. The mouth-watering crab cakes were out of this world and I wish I had the recipe for them. The roast duck was charmingly presented and smothered in a sophisticated sauce consisting of truffles and Elderberry wine. I was very happy with the dinner and the surroundings of the celebrated lodge. Lake Crescent is pristine and encircled with lush green mountains. The lake water has an emerald translucence that reminded me of ocean waters I saw around the Caribbean Islands. Outside the lodge, the air is filled with a commanding scent of cedar and pine.
Although the lodge offers top-notch cuisine at its restaurant, less affluent accommodations for food and not to mention gas are few and far between. One might find themselves trapped inside the area without gas if not careful. The lodge does not supply ordinary hot dogs or hamburgers, so it’s best to be prepared for this when visiting. While on the subject of convenience, it is also worth mentioning that many of the few stores or gas stations that are around will close at very inopportune hours, this too should be well thought-out when visiting.
On Tuesday morning, it was an early start going to The Heart of the Hills location. This region of the park is accessed through the only city near the north part of the park; Port Angeles. The accent up to The Heart of the Hills is 17 miles. The road going up is unforgiving, with steep cliffs and drop offs along the side. Several switchbacks make the drive very interesting to say the least. Along the way, wildflowers dazzle the eye with scarlet Indian Paint bush, violet lupine, Shasta daisy, and immeasurable other colorful species everywhere. The wildflowers cover the hillsides with endless rainbows. The mountains rise into the clouds and lush forests of pine blanket them filling the wind with their cool scent.
At the top are a few buildings and a spectacular view of the Olympic Mountains. A hotshot photographer with an 8x10 box camera was set up photographing the spectacle. The snow caped mountains shimmer in the distance while meadows blanketed in early blooming flowers extend out in front of you. I proceeded to hike down one of the trails and was greeted by a dazzling array of multicolored flowers and grand views of the mountains. The fresh mountain air was cool and the visit was all that I could hope it would be. A park ranger informed me that the wildflowers were near peak. A male deer appeared out of the trees and slowly meandered its way towards me without a care in the world. Its new antlers were in full velvet as it grazed upon the meadows.
Before we went to Hurricane Ridge, we stopped for a short drive in the Elwaha Valley and it was very nice during the early morning hours. Fog and mist embraced the forest and a mountain stream follows the road along the way. Huge banana slugs are everywhere and difficult to avoid.
After our return to Port Angeles from Hurricane Ridge, we traveled to a place known as Deer Park Road. This road is nice going into the park and many deer are in the area. A mother crossed the road in front of Eric’s truck and two fawns followed her into a patch of snow-white wildflowers. Both Eric and I attempted at capturing and image of the sight but fell short. Such is the story of my life, nevertheless on with the show.
Deer Park road becomes an unforgiving and treacherous dirt path that ascends into deep-forested woodlands. This journey into certain doom became too much for my frail heart and we decided to turn back. I was sure that I saw a sign that said, “Witches castle this way, I’d turn back if I were you”. Therefore, we did just that.
At this point, we decided to travel the long road to Cape Flattery. The ever-present lumber trucks kept us alert as we made our way to the Makah Indian Reservation. The harbor inside Neah Bay is filled with old fishing boats that serve as an outstanding backdrop to the feeling one gets around this place. Sights such as this enabled Ernest Hemmingway to write his inspirational novels. Bald Eagles are much more common in the Northwest than back out East and we saw several fishing around Neah Bay. The views from Cape Flattery are superb. A lighthouse stands alone on top of a huge rock out away from shore and the mist covers everything. It gave me the feeling that I was admiring a Winslow Homer oil painting. The ocean waves crash over the rocks and sea gulls take flight in great clouds with their familiar calls.
I am uncertain weather the journey out to Cape Flattery was worth it but have no regrets as it is a wonderment to view the Pacific at its best. On our way back, Eric spotted an Owl sitting on top of a signpost along side of the road. We stopped and I got out photographing it. It did not move as I approached closer but then took flight. Our drive back was long and when we arrived at the lodge, I made sure to get a drink at the bar inside the lodge. Food was unavailable anywhere during this time. Everything shuts after five or six in the evening. The bar tender was kind enough to find a bowl of seafood chowder for me in the kitchen. This chowder is incredible and I gave the bar tender a tip which reflected my gratitude.
On Wednesday morning, Eric and I started out to the Rialto Beach area of the park. As we traveled down the road, the wild Foxglove stood in great numbers along the way. We stopped to see a black bear feeding in the distance. At the Rialto Beach, location is another Indian Reservation and a small village called La Push. Although Rialto Beach is a nice place to visit, we did not arrive at low tide, or if we did, did not know where to go in order to see the Sea Stars and Sea Anemones. The beach is covered in multicolored smooth stones. When the stones are wet with water the color shines like costly gems. The shore is embellished with driftwood and this adds to the picturesque ambiance of the place. Ruby beach was better than Rialto beach and if time will not allow both, go to Ruby beach.
After Rialto Beach, we backtracked to Sol Duc Falls. This area of the park is very nice and well worth the time spent. The old growth forest that surrounds the main attraction is lush and full of singing birds of all types. The easy path guides you down to the waterfalls. A bridge crosses the cascading stream allowing you to look over it to witness the marvelous sight of three waterfalls flowing into a great gorge. Each of the three falls is formed from one alpine mountain stream flowing from the Olympic Mountains. It was quite an enjoyable walk down and back.
We returned to Lake Crescent Lodge in time to have dinner at the affluent restaurant again. This time I took it easy on the wallet and had some fancy chicken dish. As everything else, this too was scrumptious. After dinner, I sat in front of the fireplace and relaxed in a big overstuffed chair. I talked with a fellow photographer and exchanged stories of the Northwest experience. The evening was topped off with a pictorial sunset behind the mountains that glittered scarlet and chartreuse over the lake.
On Thursday morning, we got another early start and headed out to Mount Rainer National Park. I had little knowledge at this point that Olympic National Park served as an appetizer for Mount Rainer. Along the way, we stopped at several attractions such as but not limited to the Dungeness Wildlife Refuge, Dosewallips, and some Hood Canal oyster operations. The wildlife refuge did not open its gates until 7am, which made us wait for it. The area is interesting but was uneventful and our stay was short. As we made our way to Mount Rainer, numerous firework stands litter the roadside. Native Americans of the Northwest sell fireworks in small roadside shacks to make a few dollars. It was close to July 4 and Washington State allows fireworks during the week around this time.
When Eric and I arrived at Mount Rainer, we passed our lodging accommodation in a small town named Ashford just outside the park and drove directly into the park. At the Nisqually entrance is a place called the Gateway Inn and it looks like a very nice place to stay. Our intention was to drive up the road that leads to a place aptly named Paradise. As we ascend this mountain road, the vista becomes more and more spectacular. After a little while, we suddenly realized the gas level in the truck was precariously low so we abandoned our quest to reach Paradise and returned to Ashford for gas and the evening. We stayed at a place called Whitakers Bunk House and it looks nice from the road but the rooms are small and stuffy.
Early Friday morning we set out to cover as much of the park as possible. The mountain was blanketed in clouds but that failed to slow us down. We travel the road to Paradise and this time we made it. What a breathtaking place. I cannot find the words to satisfactorily describe this heaven on earth. Wildflowers feed the numerous deer that frolic in the meadows without a care. The snow caped mountain is towering over you while the fresh scent of mountain pine fills the air. It all comes together here and we returned to this place several times during our visit. In the evening as the sun retreats, its warm rays bath the mountainside. In the morning, mist and clouds create a sublime mystery that touches the soul.
This is Late June and the buds of what promised to be a dreamlike display of lupine and Indian paintbrush along with countless other flowers were abundantly clear. From what I saw, it looked like mid to late July would have been the perfect time to witness this impending kaleidoscope of color. Nevertheless, the early flowers offered a very rewarding show in there own right.
Unlike the road that leads to the spiritual paradise, the roadway that leads to this Paradise is unforgiving. A good amount of the driving can be challenging. However, along this road is unparalleled beauty that for those determined enough to witness will not soon forget. All and every turn out should be used to rest and view the majesty unfolding before you. God, how I love America.
We continued to the town of Packwood to have breakfast at a nice little restaurant just inside of town. We then go back into the park for a stop at a place called “The Grove of the Patriarchs”. This is a highly recommended place to visit while in the area. The hiking path is very easy and the wildlife, trees, and streams, are enchanting. I stopped countless times to photograph trees and then I found the stream. This small mountain stream is filled with small rounded stones like those found at the ocean. Each one is a different color and when the water flows over them while the sunlight glitters across it, they sparkle like gold and diamonds. It reminded me of the rainbow of glacially formed stones that lay upon the bed of the Snake River in the Teton’s.
After spending much too little time at the Grove of the Patriarchs, we traveled to a place called Tipso Lake. The scenic view of the mountain from here is priceless. The snow-topped mountain reflects into the lake creating a perfect picture postcard. The insects are brutal around the lake but a little DEET goes a long way. If you are doing photography, be very careful with the DEET because it’s greasy and can cause some trouble.
Upward and onward to another mountain top location called Sunrise. The road trip to this place is treacherous but when we arrived, unquestionably, worth it. At Sunrise, the view is galactic. We had a small bite to eat at the Sunrise visitor’s center and explored the area. This area being at a higher elevation had a little more time left before wildflower activity. Some snow was still on the ground. It would not be worth the effort to get here, in my opinion, until after late July or so.
On our way back to Ashford, we stopped again at Paradise to take advantage of the evening light.
Saturday morning we got another early start and stopped a third time at Paradise; just in case my soul never makes it, I can say my body did. Eric and I then stopped again at the same place in Packwood for breakfast before heading back to Vancouver. Along the way back home, we made a detour to visit Mount Saint Helens National Monument. As in Mount Rainer National Park, signs indicating the volcano evacuation route are posted along the road. The weather was unkind and kept the volcano hidden from view. Wild huckleberries grow along the roadside. The regeneration of the woodlands around the volcano is interesting to see. The forest service and lumber companies worked to replant endless numbers of fur trees. We did see the lower section of the trench that was created from the explosion. The visitor’s center is focused on educational exhibits and programs for the public.
When we arrived in Vancouver, it was agreed that the family and I would all go out to dinner and celebrate another day of living. It was an enjoyable evening. Eric and I had a great time adventuring around the great North West. Appreciating its immense beauty would require a lifetime.
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