Experiencing the rocky mountains of Colorado during the peak of autumn color captivates the soul with a sublime fulfillment difficult to explain. The alpine landscape and mountain vistas extend to the outer limits of inspirational beauty.
During this adventure, over 700 digital image captures were shot and over 1700 miles traveled. Each day began before dawn and ended after sun set. The adventure was free of inclement weather. Being blessed with such good weather was but one of the gifts bestowed upon this rocky mountain odyssey. Around every bend and over every mountain pass banners proclaimed the seemingly endless boundaries of national forest lands and wilderness.
Colorado embraces a dynamic range of landscapes. Beautifully forested mountains blanketed with lush evergreens and rugged canyons of burgundy that are dotted with cactus along with other succulent flora are but a few examples.
September 23, 2006
After an uneventful flight to Denver that did not cause any ear pain, I proceeded to procure my rental vehicle and drove to Boulder. On the far west side of Boulder along route 36 is a Mexican restaurant named Sol Azteca. The food here was outstanding with extra emphases on the top shelf salsa. After indulging a beef burrito with the works, I hit the road to Estes Park outside Rocky Mountain National Park.
Estes Park was very crowded with many tourists and is much like Gatlinburg Tennessee just outside Great Smoky Mountain National Park in that it has many shops and accommodations just outside a National Park.
Route 36 is picturesque and is a great way to approach the vicinity from the depressing area around Denver.
The entrance fee to RMNP is $20 and is good for the week. It was only a very short time after entering the park that the Elk activity became conspicuous. The Elk are in full rut and the bull’s racks are huge. One can here the bugling calls of the bulls everyplace. I never saw so many Elk in one place before. Many harems scattered across the park are well watched over by the bulls that possess them.
After an initial exploration of the park and its impressive surroundings, I found the first over night accommodation just outside the park entrance station in Estes Park. The Alpine Trail Ridge Inn is relatively comfortable and very close to the park. It is a well-placed lodging in that a welcoming “mom and pop” restaurant is just a few feet away. The Sundeck restaurant offers a down-home menu of good food including home made soups, pies, and its famous fried chicken. I had the fried chicken and almost everything comes with a side of cranberry sauce that is full of whole cranberries. It was reminiscent of a Thanksgiving Dinner. Vic and Colleen Hoerner run the place and make sure each customer is taken care of.
September 24, 2006
The day began with a predawn ride to Bear Lake. The refreshing scent of pine fills the alpine air. At 9500 feet, the air is noticeably thin and cool. Snow glazed the rocky peaks around the lake like powdered sugar. When the sun illuminated the region the lake and its splendor was fully revealed. No photographic skill that man possesses is adequate to convey the magnificence and presence of this place.
When returning down the mountainside a rushing alpine stream, which could not be seen during assent, was now apparent. Cascades of translucent water musically tumble over huge boulders. Words are woefully futile in there aptitude to explain the thrill of being surrounded by the mountains. The land here is too dynamic to understand without walking through the fields and breathing the wind caressing the evergreens that blanket them.
I spent the afternoon climbing, by car, to the highest permissible point in the park along Trail Ridge Road. The road was closed from Rainbow Curve to Grand Lake due to snow and ice. The view at this height is imposing as the mountains command ones full attention. Continuing to explore the park in bright sunshine, I stopped for an ostensibly short time to reflect on it all.
After a small diversion to have lunch at the Sundeck, I returned to Moraine Park and never saw so many Elk and photographers jammed into one area in all my born days. Two Elk fought and locked horns in serious battle. The photographic opportunities are endless inside the park. A park ranger chased me away from getting to close to a bull elk and later in the evening I came close to hitting an elk cow about to walk out onto the road.
Looking back, I should have devoted at least one additional full day for Rocky Mountain National Park.
September 25, 2006
Before dawn, the journey continued down route 7 outside the park. The morning was frosty and countless Elk bugled in the mountains and fields along route 7 just outside Estes Park. The bugling echoed off the mountains on all sides.
Copland falls near the Wild Basin region of the park was a vigorous early morning hike in refreshingly cold air. This area of the park is not well advertised and sits alone away from the heart of the park as one approaches the Peak-to-Peak highway. Copland Falls trailhead is at the end of Wild Basin Road. The waterfalls are a spectacle of nature.
The goal today is reaching Snowmass Village outside Aspen to the west. Peak-to-Peak highway is a nice drive and many stunning views are along this route. Interstate 70 is a nice drive as well because the mountains are everywhere along this interstate. They make one feel like a tiny ant as they tower above. Because the Eisenhower Tunnels had construction delays, the alternative was traversing Loveland Pass Road. Driving up to the top, the realization as to why so many choose to fight the traffic delays rather than take the pass became horrifically apparent. Let us just say this was a very adventuresome part of the trip. Steep mountain passes without any guardrails to prevent a dreadful deadly crash are not for those with acrophobia. At 11,900 feet, the top offers a breath taking view in all directions and snow boarders along with skiers populated the summit. A little girl was building a snowman and enjoying a day of winter fun.
Continuing my trek to Snowmass Village, I noticed people with ski poles while they hiked across dry ground. I also noticed that the evergreens health was not good in some locations while in others it was flourishing. The trees have been attacked by a pernicious insect that is killing some evergreens. On the other hand, many are doing very well and some that look sick from a distance are actually burdened with abundant pinecones covering them in shades of brown. An example of the woodlands plight is that the Dillon Lake area had many dead or sick trees while the Roosevelt National Forest was lush and vibrant.
At the junction of route 24 is the small town of Leadville and everyone in town must be in a contest to see who can win the most decorated and colorful house contest.
Many Aspen trees have lost all their foliage in the San Isabel National Forest but the evergreens are healthy. Route 91 going south from route 70 into the town of Leadville is out of this world in beautiful scenery. This is unquestionably the best route to take going to Aspen. After a good snow, it’s even more extravagant. Independence Pass, along route 82, is a perilous mountain pass that is worse than Loveland Pass and its summit is 12,100 feet. It is an unforgiving assent to the top. Although the pass is challenging to the weak at heart the dramatic beauty is like a fantasy film.
As one approaches the town of Aspen on the decent, the Aspen trees become glorious and the smell of pine is exhilarating.
While traveling to Aspen, the lack of road signs was very apparent. Road signs are few and far between.
In Aspen, those that ski will roller blade with ski poles in each hand to simulate skiing.
Proceeding to Snowmass Village I made a short diversionary trip to explore Ashcroft Ghost Town. On the west side of Aspen is a roundabout and an impressive stone church. The road above the church leads to Ashcroft Village the road below the church leads to the Maroon Bells Wilderness area. Ashcroft village was a disappointment and not worth the time to visit.
Snowmass Village is a short jot west and upon arrival; the assessment is that the village is a work in progress. It was designed to have all the needed conveniences with housing all under one roof. The Snowmass Inn was not as welcoming as I had hoped but was not too bad. Parking at the room location was disallowed making it inconvenient. The air is noticeably thin and one must often catch a breath or two.
The wind, sun, dry air, but most of all the endless beauty caused my eyes to become bloodshot. I can say that over a larger range the Rocky Mountains are more dynamic and colorful than the Grand Tetons. Out in the wilderness the night sky is profuse with celestial bodies that give the soul a feeling of deeper meaning. Always take the time to look up into the night sky when it is clear while out in the wilderness.
September 26, 2006
The day began before dawn and the frost of old man winter filled the morning air. Arriving so early at the Maroon Bells Wilderness area one does not pay an entrance fee. After finding the parking lot, I followed the lead of several other photographers already parked and prepared to work. The hike to Maroon Lake is very short, about 25 yards. Then suddenly the glory of the Bells appears in front of you. The reflection in the mirror like lake was perfect and the still quiet made it even more astonishing. In the twilight before dawn, the full grandeur is not yet revealed but as the sunbeams caress the rocky crags and the snow is bathed in the light of dawn its arresting power becomes evident. Holding back tears, I set up my camera equipment and conversed with the other photographers. At the edge of the lake, over 25 photographers set up to shot the famous landmark. All where more than happy to give tips and hints on the best approach to capturing such magnificence. As the light grew, the entire area looked like heaven had fallen upon the earth. Then I realized that my paltry photographic equipment and feeble skills where no match for this goliath that stood proudly in front of me. I could only make a sad attempt at capturing what unfolded before me as best that I could.
After doing the best I could at the Bells my journey continued through Kebler Pass and to Crested Butte then looping around back to Snowmass Village all in a single day.
Traveling west on route 82 to Carbondale I stopped at the Red Rock Diner for breakfast and it was very nice. The waitress was dressed up like an old west call girl and was very nice. I feasted upon sunny side up eggs, home fries, and country sausage with a rich cup of coffee to wash it all down.
The road then becomes route 133 south and after the Marble exit 133 develops into a much more mountainous and alpine spectacle. Around every turn was a mosaic of golden splendor. The Aspen trees turn color in groups because each grove is a single living organism. Therefore, in some locations the color is not fully turned while in others it is peak or past peak. This area on route 133 was at peak color.
Just past the Paonia Reservoir off to the left is Kebler Pass Road (County route 12). The reservoir was dry as a bone. This area was at about 50% color but many areas had full color and the landscape is stunning. In another week, it will be peak color but mountain pass roads can be closed as early as mid September from snow.
Crested Butte is another colorful small town nestled in the mountains. A hippie community lives in an area known as Gothic very close to town and obviously has had a great deal of influence on the culture in town.
Traveling further to the south on route 135 into Sapinero I encountered a bighorn sheep crossing the road. The Sapinero region of Colorado has a much different landscape and geological features than what was formally seen. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is aw inspiring. I saw only a small section of it but that was enough. Route 92 hugs the edge of the canyon and is adventuresome to drive. At this point, I realized that too much distance was to be covered in a single day and I had to move fast against the setting sun. One feels so small in the presence of such a grand and commanding countryside.
September 27, 2006
This morning the goal is to travel to Ouray Colorado. The route will take 82 west, 133 south, 92 west, 50 south, 550 south into Ridgeway and then to Ouray. It is a 4-hour trip from Aspen.
Leaving Snowmass a big porcupine slowly walked across the road in the twilight before dawn. As one travels down the roads and byways, the evidence of many beaver hard at work is all along the roadsides. It’s somewhat funny but in Colorado they find it important to post signs indicating the locations of post office. When in this open country it is important to stock up when you can. Get food, supplies, and gas up as the opportunity presents itself. Accommodations can be few and far between in some regions.
Route 50 south is heavily patrolled by smoky bear. After I arrived at Ridgeway, the exploration of the Dallas Divide began. West and East Dallas Creek roads are National Forest access roads and are well marked. The first road west of Ridgeway is better than the second one but both offer tremendous views of the snow-capped mountains. This is the old west at its finest. Route 62 that leads one to these access roads is well traveled and can be a bit intimidating if pulled off to the side of the road. Big rigs and cars fly down it at break neck speeds. This area, the Dallas Divide, is well into peak color. I continued to explore these back roads in bright afternoon sunshine.
Ouray is a very quaint western town that has managed to retain its nostalgic elegance. It is decidedly small and embraced by towering mountains on all sides. Red Mountain Pass links it to Silverton in the south. I decided not to traverse this fearful road in the interest of keeping my heart in working order. Silverton will remain a mystery to me.
Dinner followed check-in at the Comfort Inn. The Main Street Family Restaurant has an appropriate western atmosphere and good food. The pot roast with mashed potatoes and gravy hit the spot. Night fell, and at the Historic Western Hotel, the peach cobbler was scrumptious. The Western Hotel in Ouray is a celebrated landmark and it deserves to be just that. The interior is decorated with old west memorabilia and a huge wood-burning stove keeps the main floor warm. The saloon has several microbrew beers to offer and the bar maids dress in period call girl costumes. The call girl that served me was full figured and most certainly attractive. Her voluptuous beauty could not be overlooked.
When seeing some of the good-looking food that the girls brought out to customers I knew that this would have been a better place to enjoy dinner. I had a nice stay at the Western Hotel but as the night grew long had to leave with great reluctance. Upon my exit, two horseback rider’s road through town and the Wild West experience came full circle at that moment.
September 28, 2006
This morning the goal is to explore the Dallas Divide area along route 62 in early morning light. I traveled back down the access roads and Last Dollar Road then back out to route 62. Several photographers with 4x5 cameras and expensive gear worked the dirt roads with me. A number of nice photographic barns and abandoned buildings are along route 62 going to route 145. Route 145 will take you to the mountain community of Telluride. Route 145 is a valley road embraced by a superb canyon running along an alpine stream. The canyon cliffs that encompass it are bejeweled with evergreens and aspen trees on one side while red rock cliffs are on the other. The red rock cliffs and canyon like geology remind me of the topography at the Grand Canyon on a smaller scale.
The golden aspen along route 145 are at peak color and dazzling. Telluride is more magnificent than Ouray and should be the true Switzerland of America. The reason that 145 ends in Telluride is that a huge mountain stands in its path. The high mountain peaks are covered in snow and spectacular. The people here are much different from those back in Pittsburgh. They all have a lighthearted and easygoing demeanor. Who wouldn’t when surrounded by such beauty and clean fresh air? The region is welcoming to bicyclist with many bike paths that even tunnel under the main roads.
Upon further study, I could see that a mystical waterfall cascades down the mountain feeding the stream I passed along earlier. The area should be a national park but many live here in what I am sure are expensive homes. I stopped to buy a snack at one of the street vendors in town. Hot diggity dogs offered hot dogs and the hippie that served me was a true Woodstock flower child throw back.
John Wayne’s famous movie “True Grit” was filmed near and around Ridgeway. I stopped here for lunch and enjoyed the buffalo Burger with all the trimmings. I then returned to Snowmass Village. Night feel, and in the headlights stood along the roadside a 12 point mule deer buck.
September 29, 2006
Got up late today, around 730am, and had the breakfast at the lodge. Then, I proceeded to the Maroon Bells Wilderness area. At one point of deep contemplation, standing at the lakes edge with the Bells reflection shimmering across the water, I held back tears during a moment of emotional clarification. The Grand Tetons and the Maroon Bells are very close in magnificence but I must give the edge to the Bells. I spent the greater part of the morning here and explored the streams, hiking trails, and dirt roads. It would be easy to spend a full day here. At 9,600 feet, the air is thin but refreshing.
During the return to the Denver area, I noticed that quite a number of wildflowers remain in bloom along the roadside. I chose not to traverse Independence Pass to return and went 120 miles out of the way to avoid it. Interstate 70 is relatively scenic throughout the state of Colorado. I was happy to have come this route returning to Denver. The speed limit ranges from 50 to 75 MPH. Route 70 has its own steep grades from time to time going to Denver.
I decided to divert for a short time on route 24 east. Continued into Wheatridge and found the recently built Comfort Inn. Very nice accommodations and only $62.00 a night. I wish all of the locations were at that price and as nice. I had dinner at the nearby Furr’s Family Restaurant. It is a smorgasbord style place with good country food.
The flight back to Pittsburgh was rough but obviously smooth enough to allow me the privilege of writing this trip log.
Some Advice
• Bring chap stick as the dry wind and sun will chap the lips
• Sun screen, high mountain sun is hot
• Sunglasses to bring out the colors and protect the eyes
• Eye drops for the bloodshot eyes
• Gas up often
• Pack food and drink along
• Breath Right strips help with the thin air
• Keep mindful of the clock and the distance to travel.
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