Wyoming Vacation of 2004
Howdy partner, I would like to tell you the story of our North West Wyoming adventure and about the wild beauty of the west that we explored. So, sit back and let old Rodeo Rick explain what might be difficult to believe. But believe you me it’s all true.
It’s best to start from the beginning so let’s start at the airport. The adventure started off with only me being taken from Pittsburgh to Wyoming on a silver-bellied gas-guzzler on June 19 2004. During the flight over our great country, I looked out the window and could see vast farmlands and snow caped mountains. So many farms covered the land like a checkerboard that it’s no wonder we feed the world. As the 757 approached the Jackson Hole Airport, the grandeur of the Tetons came into view and they were shockingly imposing. The jet flew over Jackson Lake and then the mountains. The tall jagged peaks loomed over the valley like sentinels guarding a mythical kingdom. It is no wonder that the indigenous Indian tribes of the west bivouacked at their base and the pioneers of the west followed.
After Alamo car rental gave me a brand spanking new Impala with only 14 miles on it, I drove off and was greeted by a big wooden sign that read, “Welcome to Jackson Hole the last of the old west”. It’s worth mentioning at this point that the Jackson Airport is quite small. It has a tented area outdoors used for waiting passengers of flights going out. It only takes about one or two flights at a time and very few during the week. It’s also located within Grand Teton National Parks boundaries. It might be something like what you would find in a remote part of Alaska.
As I left the airport area, I could see that the valley floor was carpeted with sagebrush and wildflowers as far as the eye could see. An endless variety and colors blanketed the whole area. Reds and yellows, lavender lupines and bright yellow sunflowers joined the aromatic sagebrush covering the fields. I had the feeling that I arrived in Oz. Then from the ground, I turned my gaze toward the Teton Mountain Range and was shell shocked at their mighty and imposing dominance. The majesty of there snow capped peaks gives testament to the great beauty of America. Photographs and western movies are woefully inadequate in delivering the same impact as they do face to face. The classic Hollywood movie “Shane” only gives an indication of their awesome beauty.
I drove into Jackson Wyoming to pick up some film for the camera. Back then I had a film camera the Nikon FM3A. No matter if you are a hobbyist, professional or amateur photographer a camera is necessary in this region. Jackson is a small western town with less than nine thousand residence. During the ride down, I continued to be stunned by the profusion of multicolored wildflowers and the beauty of the valley. It was of such a degree that I came dangerously close to smashing the nice new Impala into on coming recreational vehicle. The air was cool and fresh, and the aromatic scent of sage is ubiquitous. Jackson has everything one might need but is also relatively limited when compared to the built up areas back home. I found my film and had a quick lunch then returned to the Airport to pick up my cousin Eric.
Our weeklong quest was now joined and the adventure began exploring this wonderland right away. We traveled north on the main road and found a place called Swabachers Landing. A narrow dirt road leads down to the Snake River and offers unparallel views of the Tetons. A brightly colored yellow bird flew near and a coyote ran across the road during the trip down. The little yellow bird is a real jewel. Prairie Dogs scampered all around very active and busy or just having fun. After Swabachers Landing, we drove north to the Colter Bay Cabins. Along the way, we saw great herds of Bison marching across the planes with small newborn calves following behind.
Checking into the Colter Bay Cabins, we found them to be accommodating but basic. The cabin is a small box constructed of the indigenous lodge pole pine. I retrieved the tripod that I had sent by courier and we had dinner then ventured north toward Yellowstone. The road leading to the Teton sister National Park is unpaved and under construction. Major road construction occurs every year in and around Yellowstone so it is best to be aware of the locations. When we enter the park, we can see the rebirth of the fire-ravaged forest. While the charred remains of the lodge pole pines that once championed this forest stand naked and dead, new small pines about 6 to 8 feet tall blanket the base of each of them. The meadows and wetlands are picturesque. Many Elk graze along the road. We stop to take photographs of the Elk. After a short drive, we are greeted by the first geothermal feature at West Thumb Geyser basin. The sunset cast a soft orange glow over the steam that vents from the ground and with that, we returned to the cabin.
Sunday June 20, 2004
Early, before dawn, we got up and went to photograph Oxbow bend at sunrise. Oxbow Bend is a famous picturesque location along the Snake River where Mount Moran reflects into the waters below. Early morning sunrise is the best light to photograph this spectacular spot. Other photographers joined me at the location and we exchanged opinions on the best way to take the shot. When the sun did cast its mellow morning light on the mountaintop the camera shutters went off. A cool auburn slightly glimmers over the mountaintop at the instant the sun breaks. After that, it’s a race against time. A short time later we saw a huge bull Elk cross Leigh Lake at sunrise.
Along our way to Cascade Canyon near Jenny Lake, we saw a Moose in the willows feeding. I snapped off a bunch of shots and the Moose remained fearless throughout. Every time there is significant wildlife located a group of vehicles are pulled off the side of the road. If the wildlife is highly significant such as a black bear with cubs then it becomes a circus and park rangers do what they can to control the situation, as I will explain later in this work.
Cascade Canyon is a ravine that is traversed by a roaring mountain stream that is accessible by boat or a 3-mile hiking path. We decided to take the boat and climb up the mountain from its base along the lakeshore. The boatman warns of bear activity and that we should keep our distance if one is near. The hike is moderately difficult but well within the abilities of most people if paced well. The mountain air is thin and we found ourselves short of breath many times. This time we only climbed a short distance, about four thousand feet. Later in the week, we will climb the same mountain to seven thousand feet. The stream that flows down the mountainside is spectacular. I asked Eric where the water comes from and he replied that the water is coming from heaven like the never-ending springs of Valhalla. What a prophetic truth. It is a rushing torrent of Alpine snowmelt. During our travels through this unbelievable land, I stopped and wondered to myself if it’s all a dream and that I have died and passed into heaven. Nevertheless, the cool mountain air and the sent of pine brings me back and I realize that it’s actually happening.
After the hike, Eric and I went into Jackson to find a place for lunch and after asking around, we were guided to a great Mexican restaurant. The place is called “El Abuelito” at 385 West Broadway. The Mexican food is out of this world and comes highly recommended. We saw many Elk along the road as we drove down to Jackson. After lunch we went into Teton Village to ride the tram to the top of Rendezvous mountain about ten thousand feet up. The top is cold and windy and its great cliffs are fearfully steep. From the top, one can see the whole valley below and the great expanses of the sagebrush flats. It is truly a sight to see.
When we arrived back down at the bottom of the mountain we explored several back roads looking for wild life and that awesome photo shot. As I drove down a dusty road and continued to be shell shocked as to the wealth of wild flowers painting the ground I stopped to photograph a stand of large yellow sunflowers near a fallen tree. Eric proclaimed that it was just like a three-layered cake. “You have the flowers, the mountains, and the sunset all in one shot; it’s a three-layered cake”. I hardily agreed and took the shot. The location was down a road called Pilgrim Road. The back roads can be a bit difficult but the views of the mountains are rewarding to those that adventure down them. Also, during the early and late hours one will find greater numbers of wildlife down these roads.
We discovered that few concessions or amenities exist within the park and its best to take a cooler of food along the way to keep everyone happy. Gas can also be an issue and should be carefully monitored. The amenities that do exist within the park are a little pricey.
Monday June 21, 2004
We got up at three in the morning to travel up into Yellowstone and capture the Canyon Falls at dawn. It’s an 80-mile trip and off we went. As we approached the Hayden Valley inside Yellowstone, we had to stop because dawn was chasing the twilight away and we could see great herds of Bison gathered upon the rolling hillside shrouded in early morning fog. I had to take the shot while the chance was given me. When we got out of the car, we herd the call of the coyote and then saw two coyote cross the road ahead. Along the Yellowstone River Pelican drifted on the streaming water like white water rafters.
The Bison like to use the roads to travel on. As Eric and I approached the Yellowstone Canyon and started across the bridge, leading to the south rim road a huge Bison emerged from the pine trees and slowly made his stand in the middle of the bridge blocking our way. I backed up the car to allow him to cross then realized what a great shot it would make to capture a huge Bison crossing over a bridge. I got out taking some shots and the noble monarch advanced to the car. I stood behind the car door using it as a shield. Little else remained between me and the boss but the car door and an arms length. He looked at me with those deep dark eyes and I at him then he marched off. My heart pounding in my chest I got back in the car and gave the maker thanks. The encounter could have been much worse and several people each year are gored by bison.
The Yellowstone Canyon is a fantastic sight. The jagged rock cliffs are a bright shade of yellow and orange. The morning light plays on these cliffs and embellishes them with even greater magnificence. During this time of year, the waterfalls are rushing as torrents and the waterfalls at the canyons beginning were no exception. It was a wonderful sight and we took many photographs. Several professional photographers joined us at the falls. On our journey to the waterfalls, we saw two bull elk in full velvet. Its worth mentioning that the traffic was not as congested as I anticipated and in the early hours we had the whole park to ourselves.
Again, it is impossible to ignore the wildfire damage in Yellowstone. Thin burnt and branchless lodge pole pines are ubiquitous and scatter the landscape in countless numbers. However, young pines have spawned at the base of each charred tree and hold the promise of newness to come. In twenty years time the forested landscape of the park will ounce again be green and abundant with life. Regardless of the wildfire damage, the park remains a marvel and offers countless landscapes of majestic beauty.
We traveled the lower park loop and stopped at the Old Faithful area. Many geysers and geothermal features surround the Old Faithful area. Because Old Faithful is a national icon, everyone gathers around to watch it go off. The anticipation builds then suddenly, after a few false alarms, it fires off, heavy steam fills the air, and everyone snaps photos of it as fast as they can.
Dinner at the Old Faithful Inn was nostalgic. The whole structure of the Inn is constructed with indigenous timbers. It’s a sight to see. The main gathering area is wide open with a huge stone fireplace and a very high ceiling. It gives one the feeling of going back in time to the old west.
We traveled around to find a good sunset spot and after capturing a few shots, we returned to the Cabin down south at Colter Bay.
Tuesday June 22, 2004
We made a change in plans because the sky was clear as crystal and the day would be perfect for mountain photography. Therefore, we stayed in Grand Teton National Park to take advantage of the opportunity. At dawn, we returned to Oxbow bend and created more artistic images with the camera. At Oxbow Bend Otters played in the river and Pelicans made a show in the distance. We then drove down to Leigh Lake to capture the reflections that are cast on the waters. This is a perfect location for any photographer to be during the early morning. Then we traveled down a small road named Wilson Road that connects Moose Junction to Teton Village. Along this road is wetlands and marsh that the Moose are attracted to because of the willows that grow there. Well, while we drove down the road we suddenly saw several vehicles pulled off to the side of the road. A baby Moose was gently feeding amongst the willows. We went down into the wetland area and took all kinds of shots. The Moose was unfazed by our presence. It might have been dangerous if mother came around but we saw no sign of her. We accomplished all of this before 7:30 in the morning.
Then we doubled back on the main road to Swabachers Landing and got some great shots near Snake River Overlook where Ansil Adams created his famous black and white image of the Teton Mountain Range with the winding Snake River as a foreground. Around 9:30 in the morning, the sun turns the air hot and dry. The dry air can cause some trouble if not prepared for it. We used DEET to keep the bugs off and it works well.
Later in the afternoon, we returned to Yellowstone. If you do not travel into the park early, you can expect lots of traffic as we encountered. After getting past the traffic, we explored the many geyser areas and waterfalls. Places like Mud Volcano, Sulphur Caldron, and Fountain Paint Pots. Keepler Cascade is not worth stopping at because the view of the falls is obstructed. We saw a lot of wildlife as we drove around, Mule Deer, Elk, Bison, Coyote, and several different birds. At this point in the trip, we did not yet see any bear but hold on to your holster cowboy the story is not over until the black bear growls. At a place called Niez Pierce, a dead Bison was in the field and left a strong odor. Some folks gathered around the place hoping a wolf or grizzly might stop by to check it out.
We decided to drive all the way up to Mammoth Hot Springs and go into the Lamar Valley. Along the way, we encountered a multitude of vehicles pulled off to the side of the road and forest rangers controlling traffic. Off in the ravine to the side of the road was a black bear with two playful cubs. What a sight to see. We both got out and started shooting all kinds of photographs. Many professional photographers lined the road and some people just sat there enjoying the sight. On the way back we saw another black bear in the woods more distant from the road. What a day.
Wednesday June 23, 2004
We got up with the birds once more and drove directly to Swabachers Landing. As we approached the beaver lodge on the water, we saw that a Moose was feeding in the nearby willows. It was another three-layered cake, the mountains, the moose, and the beaver lodge all in one shot. National Geographic could not ask for more. What a perfect start to the day. Eric and I had an outdoor breakfast at the Chuck Wagon near Moose Junction overlooking the mountains.
I went to the meeting area to go on the Snake River Float trip. The float trip was magical. The big stones that cover the riverbed are all smooth and rounded. The crystal clear water let me see down to the bottom and when the sunlight hit the stones, I could see that they are a mosaic of colors. It almost seems too good to be real that such a riverbed would be like that. However, the float trip guide explained that the stones were created over thousands of years through glacial action on them. Our guide was very informative and gave use quite a lesson about local history. During the float trip we past under an American Bald Eagle and her nest. Two fledgling Eaglets looked out over the top of the nest. The mother was carefully protecting the nest and her children. The air is filled with the fresh scent of pine while the float raft meanders down the river.
It was about this time that all the running around caught up with us and we just could not go on without rest. Eric and I went into town and had a second helping of the Mexican food then returned to the cabin to nap between two in the afternoon until six in the evening. I slept like a baby. The alarm sounded and we got up to tackle the back roads once again. I looked at the mileage and was shocked to see that we put on over one thousand miles. In the backwoods, we spotted a huge Elk cow.
After our nap, we went to the top of Signal Mountain. Along the way, I could not help but stop and take photographs of the Wyoming State Flower, the Indian Paint Brush. Indian Paint Brush is a bright red flower that is not as common as many of the others that carpet the landscape. At the top of Signal Mountain, you can see a great deal of the valley below and with binoculars you can see great herds of Bison and Elk along with Mule Deer and Pronged Horn Deer. The valley view is spectacular. Much to our amazement a sage grouse walked along the roadside very slowly and allowed us to take its photo with little care.
Thursday June 24, 2004
We got up late today and at 6:30 in the morning we started out to find a power breakfast. The best place to eat that we found was the Signal Mountain Lodge Restaurant. After a good cup of coffee and some grub, we decided to hike up Cascade Canyon one more time. This time we are going all the way to Hidden Falls and seven thousand feet up. The waterfall is visionary and mythical. Alpine snow melt cascading over a steep cliff in unreal amounts. The spray was getting everyone around the base wet and a fine mist filled the air as it does at Niagara Falls. I made my best attempt to capture it on film considering the conditions. Suddenly everyone started to look into the trees at the base of the waterfalls and there in the trees was a huge Moose feeding. We returned to the bottom of the mountain and took the boat ride back over Jenny Lake. The cool mountain air embraced us along the way.
We stopped a moment to thank God for such a wonderful trip and to remember that love of country and flag has nothing at all to do with government.
Our last trip to Yellowstone National Park was blessed with beautiful scenery and lots of wild life spotting. During the ride up into the other park, we saw a Bull Moose feeding in the distance off the road. As we traveled down to the Fishing Bridge area of Yellowstone, we explored many geothermal attractions like Dragons breath and Dragons mouth steam vents. The road leading to Steamboat Point had a good number of wildlife, such as American Bald Eagle, a small herd of Bison, and a Brown Bear on the move with park rangers policing the situation just as before up in the Lamar Valley. All of these wild animals were in close proximity to each other. I got out of the car and chased down the road to get some shots of the brown bear. The rangers stopped me after a while. What an excellent day.
Friday June 25, 2004
Sleep in today then had a two-hour horseback ride. The wranglers at the stables were very professional and the trip took me to locations you just won’t see unless you hike back to the same area the horse trail is. Spectacular views of the Teton’s are all over the place during the ride. Two hours was a little too long and my hindquarters and knees complained rather forcefully at the end of the ride. I got some nice shots
of the wranglers and horses. The horse I was on was named Comanche and it was well behaved.
Back down in Jackson a nice girl told us to have lunch at the Cowboy Bar. I was not going to go to the Cowboy Bar because I didn’t think it had food. Well, when we got into the place it was more like an old west museum than a bar. The whole place is western to a tee. The bar stools are saddles, western collectables, like guns and cowboy clothing and spurs are on display in showcases. The whole place is decorated with western art and just had a great feeling about it. It is a must see for anyone traveling through town. The food is not bad and the drinks are good.
The Gross Venture Pass road outside of Kelly is very scenic and along the way is a hot springs swimming area. It’s free to the public and on public lands. The water must not be too hot because all kinds of people were down in it having a good old time. When we returned down the road, we went over to Antelope Flats Road and hundreds of Bison congregated on the flats. More Bison than we had seen during the whole trip. Many had calf’s following behind among the wildflowers and sagebrush. The famous barns from an old abandoned ranch set off the view tremendously. Eric and I took many photographs.
Saturday June 26, 2004
Our last day in Gods country and we wanted to stay but had to go. Eric and I had our last breakfast under the mighty towers of the Teton Range at Signal Mountain Lodge. Then we drove down the park road to the Airport. I looked down at the mileage, saw 1580, and could not believe it but then again we did do a whole lot of driving. Our flights left at close to the same time and back home we flew.
In conclusion, I must say a few last words. It is beyond my ability to adequately explain the breathtaking beauty of this land. The mountains are arresting and megalithic. The endless fields of wildflowers are mind-boggling, as if a huge aircraft flew over and dropped billions of flower seeds. The wildlife is so abundant that at almost every turn one will encounter some kind of wild animal. The air is aromatic and clean with the scent of sage and pine. The roads are clean and unpolluted as if people know that this is sacred land and irreverent to litter it. I can only say that, if possible, every American should see and enjoy this part of our National Heritage.
