Niagara Falls Weekend Trip

NIAGARA VACATION TRIP

This most recent trip to the famous water falls and tourist attraction was a welcome get away. The weather was good and everything went smoothly.

• FRIDAY,
We road up Friday June fourth 1999 and took the Niagara parkway to the falls along the river. As we approached we were greeted by a magnificent rainbow arching across the length of the mist created by the Horseshoe Falls. It was a pleasant sunny afternoon. After settling in at the Holiday Inn we had dinner and took a short walk down to see the natural wonder. As evening approached colored lights illuminated the dense white water thundering over the edge of both the American and Horseshoe Falls. Every Friday during the tourist season Canada offers a small fireworks display at ten o’clock. Both the vivid rainbows and fireworks show got things off to a great start.


• SATURDAY
After a good breakfast at the Inn we walked down to the area where the “Maid of the Mist” is located and took a trip on the famous boat into the heart of the thundering mist of the falls. The spray showers everyone as if in a rainstorm. The seagulls fly around playfully diving into the churning waters for food. On returning, we proceed to the tour that takes one behind the falls by way of a man made tunnel through the rock then you can view the waterfalls through a small porthole in the rock from behind. We also walk out on a platform built directly at the edge of the falls. This offers a spectacular close up view. One can really feel the power of the falls from these vantagepoints. It’s best to have a good pair of sunglasses to help bring out the details and the colors. We then had lunch at the Victoria Park Restaurant. This restaurant has a very nice lunch buffet every day during the peak tourist season. It offers a great view and elegant surroundings. Following lunch we took the people mover to the Green House exhibit. This wonderful little green house has a variety of plants along with quite an array of tropical songbirds adorned with the whole spectrum of colors. We then took the small bus back to the falls and went back to the Inn to prepare for dinner at the top of Skylone Tower’s revolving dinning room. The dinner was good and the lofty view of the spectacle below is out of this world. We then went into town to Clifton Hill to enjoy some entertainment at the wax museum and fun house attractions there.

• SUNDAY
At Queenston Park we enjoyed a splendid brunch while appreciating the grand view of the river below. We then spent a greater part of the day at the Botanical Gardens and at a new attraction called the Butterfly Conservancy. This glass enclosure filled with water falls and tropical plants along with several hundred tropical butterflies is amazing. The butterflies are so numerous that they will fly right towards you and land on your shoulder. It’s worth the trip just to be witness to this marvel of cultivated nature. It got a little hot due to a heat wave so we returned to the Inn to escape the heat. In the evening we had a pizza cooked in a wood fired oven out on the patio of the Inn and walked down to see the falls once again. I am always fascinated with the diversity of people that come to Niagara. The Amish from New York and Pennsylvania come to see the falls along with British and Germans, Indians and Orientals, French and Arabians. It’s interesting to mingle with such a diversified crowd.

• MONDAY
Before heading home we stopped at Moma Mia’s Italian Restaurant for a hardy lunch. The pasta is made from scratch and is a real treat. The service is very personable as well. Another important task that must be performed before leaving Niagara Falls is to find Portage’s bakery and pick up some fresh baked bread. Potage’s is located at 5845 Gladstone Ave and Ferry Street. They have lots of other things to delight the taste buds also.

It’s always nice to have a short get away and Niagara Falls Canada is one of the best places near by to do so. If you can avoid the souvenir shops and keep away from the tourist traps and watch what you eat, it can be a bargain also. It’s one of the great natural wonders of the world right in our own back yard.

Recommendations
1. Be sure to enjoy the Sunday brunch at Queenston Park
2. Be sure to ride the Maid of the Mist into the falls
3. Stay on the Canadian side
4. Get some fresh baked bread at Portage’s
5. Have a nice dinner at Mama Mia’s
6. Go to the top of Skylone Tower to see the view
7. Check out the Butterfly conservancy
8. Keep away from the tourist traps

The Family History

Fathers Side of the Family.

The Ferree ancestry is documented back to 1265AD indicating that Ferree lineage is rooted in French Nobility. Only faded fragments of information are known from this forgotten time.

During the protestant reformation of John Calvin in 1550 the French protestants and members of the reformed church in France where known as Huguenots. From 1536 until 1685, the Roman Catholic Church waged savage and barbaric war against the Huguenots as heretics. French rulers at the time were in agreement with the Catholic Church and assisted in killing as many Huguenots as possible. Thousands of Huguenots were killed, burned alive and tortured. All reform church buildings were destroyed.

When this religious oppression became insurmountable, approximately 250,000 Huguenots fled France to various other European countries. The Ferree family was among them and fled to Germany settling in Stienweller. The date of their exodus is recorded as 1663. Michael and Mary Ferree with four children fled this religious oppression.

In 1708, Maria (Mary) and Daniel Ferree were granted passports to immigrate to America. It is worth noting at this point, if this were the same Mary Ferree that fled France, she would be about 60 years old now. It becomes very confusing keeping all the people in order but let it be said that many of the Ferree family immigrated to the British American Colonies. They first traveled to London where Queen Anne traditionally gave gifts to all those that immigrated to the English colonies in America. The English monarchy at that time encouraged immigration to the new land in an effort to establish it. Several Ferree brothers, relatives, and children moved to America. Among them were Andrew, John, Abraham, Joel, Jacob, Daniel, and Mary. It is difficult to sort it all out.

When Mary Ferree and her six children crossed the Atlantic Ocean they were on the stormy sea for 2 ½ months. Back in those times, it was not unlikely to spend such a long time at sea. It was winter and the Atlantic can be unforgiving during that season. The ship docked at New York harbor on December 31st. They lived in New York until 1710.

At the invitation of Pennsylvania Governor William Penn, many religiously oppressed or religiously nomadic people immigrated to Pennsylvania. Although William Penn’s “Holy Experiment” did not officially begin until 1720, this religious tolerance most probably had seeds growing earlier. William Penn was a Quaker and had a good deal of personal experience with religious oppression himself. Some time between 1710 and 1712, Maria and Daniel Ferree purchased 2300 acres of land in Lancaster County near Strasburg Pennsylvania for 147 pounds. The Indians in the area were friendly to the family and provided shelter to them until some log cabins could be built. Mary Ferree died in 1716. Many years pass with little recorded history. Abraham died at the age of 29 in 1735. John Ferree was appointed Sheriff of Lancaster County in 1773.

In 1775, Benjamin Franklin and a group of other revolutionists commissioned Joel Ferree to supply them with Guns. Jacob and Joel were Gun Smiths. Joel wrote a reply letter to them indicating that because of the new situation in America (The American Revolution) that Jacob and he would expand the operation and supply them with up to 40 guns a week. Jacob and Joel made guns, bullets, and their own signature gunpowder. Joseph Ferree was active in mustering revolutionary war troops from Pennsylvania. John Ferree purchases guns and ammunition for his battalion. Lancaster County was the home of one of the most famous weapons in American history -- the legendary Pennsylvania long rifle. This famous weapon, often called the Kentucky rifle despite its place of origin, was developed by local craftsmen working in small shops during the mid-1700's. The development of the Pennsylvania rifle was the result of a mixture of traditions from English and German or German-Swiss settlers of Lancaster County. These two cultural groups, the strongest among the early settlers, each contributed an important element of the eventual Pennsylvania rifle style.
The Germanic settlers brought with them the tradition of the "jaeger" or hunting rifle used in southern Germany and Switzerland. The jaeger was a relatively short, large-bore, usually unornamented weapon with a patchbox and, most importantly, a rifled barrel. Rifling involved cutting a series of straight or spiral grooves inside the gun barrel, a practice developed in Germany in the 15th or 16th century. A rifled barrel gave the ball or projectile a spin as it was shot out of the gun, improving both the range and accuracy of the weapon.
Jacob Ferree enlisted as a Private in Captain Jacob Klotz's Company, Colonel Matthias Slough's Battalion of the Flying Camp on 8 Jul 1776. On September 27, 1777, during the American Revolution, Lancaster served as the national capital when the Continental Congress held a session here after fleeing from Philadelphia. Jacob married Susanna Stickler in 1778. He served as a Private in Captain Mathias Slaymaker's Company, 1st Battalion, Lancaster County PA Militia in 1782. Some time later Susanna Stickler died (date unknown).

In 1783, Jacob Ferree and Alice Powel are married. During that same year, Patrick Henry, Governor of Virginia, sold Jacob Ferree 740 acres of land in what was then Washington County but is now Allegheny County. The area was Virginia at that time. This was known as the “Ferree Purchase” . As the family moved from Lancaster County to Allegheny County, they were considered pioneers since very few had settled this part of the country in those days. Jacob then purchased another estate near the Ohio River in 1804; believed to be in the area of what is now Coraopolis. This purchased land was called “Britannia”. It is unclear if this land purchase was near Coraopolis, but it looks like some land was purchased called the Montour Bottoms. Most likely, Jacob Ferree purchased this land adding yet another estate to his growing acquisitions. Jacob Ferree has been established as a key pioneering father of Coraopolis. It should be understood that at this early time in the nation’s history purchasing land and then selling it was a big deal and countless pioneer engaged business actions this way.

Jacob Ferree died in 1807 and was an active gunsmith to the end. It was said that Alice Powel Ferree was the best shot with a Pennsylvania Long Rifle in the county. Jacob had a Whisky still during the whisky rebellion and his original gun shop was near Paradise, Lancaster County Pa. Isaac Ferree took control of the belongings of Jacob and executed his last will and testament. After his death, the Ferree family had a house auction and sold many items. What a tragedy, today many of the listed items would be worth a fortune not to mention all the guns he still had. They also advertised in the Pittsburgh Gazette that he had plenty of signature gunpowder for sale as well. In addition to these possessions, he also retained possession of several estates in different states. The different states included North Carolina, Virginia, and Pennsylvania.

In 1812, Joel Ferree was a Lieutenant Colonel in the Army and issued draft orders. The war of 1812 was well under way and troops were needed. Joel Ferree published the names of deserters in the Pittsburgh Gazette at that same time.

Joel died in 1815. When Jacob moved to Allegheny County Joel remained in Lancaster County. What happened was that Joel traveled from Lancaster to visit his brother’s family in Coraopolis. While he was visiting, he went hunting and never returned. The family went to look for him and found him. He was scalped by Iroquois Indians and left to die. He is interred at the Ferree family cemetery in Coraopolis.

Jacob junior is mentioned at this time. He talks about the Napoleonic Wars in Europe and indicates he hopes the allies win the war. He was quite the poet and writer. An important poem about the war of 1812 is attributed to his gifted penmanship. Jacob Junior married Nancy Phillips and they had a daughter named Lillie Ferree. Jacob Junior died in 1823.

In 1825, William Ferree was made Major of the Volunteer Infantry Company called the “Intrepid Blues” of Pennsylvania. In 1827, he was made Captain. His fate is unclear.


The time after 1827 is not well documented or if it is, needs to be uncovered. I am sure the plethora of architectural projects that Great Grandfather worked on are documented somewhere. It is my understanding that he is responsible for the design of the two Presbyterian Churches in Coraopolis to name just a few. I believe Great Grandfather was in the Union Calvary during the Civil War. I am also certain that other family ancestors were involved with that great struggle as well.

The Stanton’s and Ferree’s were well off until the great depression during the 1930’s when countless lost all that they had. After the depression and the World Wars, the family was left with the one home. This home was one of several in the area that remained with the original Ferree estate. Grandfather was a skilled oil painter and furniture refinisher. He also joined the Army during the First World War. It was he, which brought the Ferree papers and documents found in the attic of 611 Ferree Street, there home, to the attention of the Pittsburgh Gazette.

The story is interesting and if one thinks about it somewhat surreal. Here come the French Protestants that have an ancestry of French Huguenots across a turbulent ocean to the New World speaking German and not sure what to do. They set up a homestead in Lancaster County Pennsylvania and work as Gun Smiths. War breaks out against England and one thing leads to another. Over 150 Ferree are interred in a graveyard around Strasburg Pennsylvania. I intend to go and check it out this autumn.

I have returned from my Lancaster trip and found the graveyard close to the railroad tracks. The graveyard is small. The one notable tombstone in the yard is that of Mary Ferree the noble matriarch of the Ferree lineage in America. Local historians keep special care of the site. The tombstone indicates her history of establishing a Huguenot settlement in Lancaster.
Leona Scobey married Harry Evans and begat Elva Evans. Elva Evans married Robert Stoner and begat Leona Stoner (Grandmother Scobey’s namesake)

Mothers Side of the Family,

The Evans family is Welsh immigrants that settled in Plane City Ohio. The Evans family worked as sharecroppers. The Stoner family is German immigrants that settled in the Altoona area of Pennsylvania. Great great grandfather Charles Stoner first lived on a farm then moved to McKee’s Rocks to fabricate heavy chain and his son Robert Stoner Senior also worked as a heavy steel chain fabricator. Robert Stoner Junior, son of Robert Stoner senior, was an adventuresome type that was a pilot. He flew bi-winged airplanes, and gave his grandchildren silver dollars. He married Elva Evans in Columbus Ohio. After a time he moved back to Pittsburgh and the family followed soon afterward. Robert Stoner Senior taught his son the fine art of heavy chain fabrication. Like grandfather, like father, like son and Robert Junior remained a skilled chain fabricator the rest of his life. Great great grandfather Charles Stoner worked his way into the Pittsburgh Industrial Age when steel and iron was king.

By the 1880s, Pittsburgh was an unrivaled industry giant. The city was producing one twelfth of the pig iron and one-fourth of the rolled iron in the county, while sixteen enormous steel works manufactured two-thirds of all crucible steel. Countless immigrants flocked to the smoky city for work. Andrew Carnegie and Henry Frick were more than happy to oblige them. Heavy chain fabrication was hard work and only hard working men of the Steel City could master it. Great great grandfather Charles Stoner moved back to the Altoona area of Pennsylvania and built his farm were his children and grandchildren would visit and enjoy the country setting. The place was known as Howard, PA but has since vanished because of a large body of water covering it.

Because of the Steel Works heavy smoke that enshrouded Pittsburgh in those times, Robert Stoner Junior succumbed to several lung ailments and died some time around 1980.

Elva Evans Stoner was a remarkable woman and the family matriarch having over 15 grandchildren and approximately 25 great grandchildren. Most of her long life she was a skilled cook and caregiver to all those she loved. Her strength was, many times, misunderstood and under appreciated yet she endured to the age of 89. She was a proud woman that took great pride in her Ohio background and the Evans name. She was born in 1907 and died in 1996. It is said that the “Bob Evans” restaurant chain was established by one of the Evans in her family.

The history of the Stoner, Evans, Scobey, and Stanton family’s are unclear to me at this time but much can be learned with time and effort. Many Evans yet live in and around Plane City Ohio.

Ithaca NewYork 1999

1999 FALL VACATION



This year the decision was made to take a fall vacation trip up to Ithaca New York and the Finger Lakes region. We also stayed a short time in Wellsboro Pennsylvania and viewed the Pa. Grand Canyon.

October 18, 1999

The drive up to Ithaca was perfect. The weather was a combination of clear sunny skies with dark cumulus clouds creating a patchwork overhead. Also, the crisp autumn air was gently blowing. The forest was perfectly colored in a mosaic of Indian red and lemon yellow along with gold and raw sienna. Adding contrast to the bright colors came dark pine green and raw umber’s. As we drove down the country roads we could see the yellow leaves of a birch tree dance as the autumn wind swirled among its branches. Many walnut and chestnut trees dot the mountainsides among the evergreens.

When we arrived at the bed and breakfast it was a welcoming down home type place. The gardens out side contained herbs and vegetables and flowers of many types. Numerous gray squirrels scampered among the walnut trees near by. The thundering sounds of a close by waterfalls could be heard as we entered the front door. The interior is filled with charming Victorian antiques and federal style furniture. Original oil paintings adorn the walls. Our room was small but had quilt covered beds and a warm inviting feel to it.
Jan and I had a late dinner at a relatively new place near the B&B on route 34 called Branches. The food was very good and well prepared. We both had the stuffed shrimp and were unable to finish it all. On our return to the Federal House I was amused at the way the hard wood floors carried on, creaking and complaining enough to beat the band. I don’t want to give the wrong impression; the old boards are immaculately kept and well polished. The floor adds a charm to the place. I was later informed from our hostess Diane that the floors had a major restoration performed on them when she first bought the house.

October 19, 1999

In the morning I got up with the sun and walked a short way through a walnut covered lawn and past a playground. Following the melody of rushing water I found its source in a nice sized waterfall tumbling over a stone ravine. It was a frosty morning and a mystical fog embraced the water spray.
Breakfast was a wonderful experience with Victorian table settings and it was served in courses. It was the first time I enjoyed a candle light breakfast with music in the background. The freshly prepared items included homemade muffins and nut bread, a fruit cup and French toast prepared with extra care.
Jan and I spent the day exploring the spectacular state parks that are scattered nearby. The area of the Finger Lakes is a natural wonder due to the glaciers that carved out the lakes and many gorges over 10,000 years ago. In the parks, natural beauty surrounded us in heavily wooded forest along with abundant streams bejeweled with cascades. Among these parks are the Treman parks, Taughanock Falls and Buttermilk Falls. Each park has more than one entrance and both should be explored.
We had a marvelous lunch at the Ithaca bakery, which is also a great New York style deli. The bakery is in town along route 13 and 34 north. It offers about fifteen different types of bagels and all kinds of sandwiches. It carries many unusual food products as well. I had the Ruben sandwich and it was one of the best in flavor that I can remember. We then drove east on route 79 and stopped at the Six-mile Creek winery. The place was small but we enjoyed a wine tasting and purchased a bottle of their wine. We then went to have dinner at Maxis Harbor Inn along route 34 near the Federal House.

October 20, 1999

Early in the morning I went down stairs and created a fire in the fireplace while I waited for breakfast to be prepared. Breakfast was as enjoyable as it was the morning before. It included fresh baked pumpkin bread and pair muffins.
Along country and county roads we drove to Hammondsport. The vistas were spectacularly illuminated by morning sunshine. Jan and I enjoyed a peaceful boat tour of Keuka Lake aboard the Keuka Maid. The buffet lunch was good and the service was excellent. The paddle wheeled boat was spacious and comfortable. The captain entertained a few children by allowing them to sit at the helm and ring the bell and blow the foghorn. A good many of the summer homes along the shore are extravagant.
After the boat tour we drove to Watkins Glen State Park and walked the gorge trail. The trail has 822 steps we walked about 350 to 400 of them. On our return to Ithaca Jan had a stuffed Portabela mushroom and I an onion bagel with cream cheese at the bakery. As the coolness of evening enfolded the land we settled into our new room. We decide to upgrade our last nights stay at the Federal House and moved into a wonderful and more spacious suite. It was like living the life style of the rich and famous just for a moment.

October 21, 1999

In the morning and after another great breakfast we said our goodbye and went into town to pick up some cheddar and chive bread from the bakery. The bread came highly recommended and has chunks of cheddar cheese in it. We stopped at one of the State Parks to take in its beauty a second time and started on the road to Wellsboro Pa. Our ride down route 13 and 15 to Wellsboro was unexpectedly scenic. This area of Pennsylvania is more mountainous than most other areas of the state. As it has been throughout the trip, the autumn colors were perfect. On arriving in Wellsboro we had dinner at the famous Wellsboro diner. The hot roast beef sandwich is made with real roast beef and the red raspberry pie was superb.
Not far from town we found Kaltenbach’s B&B. It is a ranch style structure on farmland with a basic but comfortable setting. Kaltenbach’s is as informal as the Federal House was formal. Sheep graze in the field outside the bedroom window and white tailed deer venture out at dusk to do the same. Our spacious room had a walk-in closet and the large rectangular closed in porch was perfect for sitting in and watching the deer.


October 22, 1999

Lee, our host, prepared a nice country breakfast for us including homemade sausage and homemade jam. Our road trip around the countryside to the canyon was pleasantly scenic. Harrison and Colt Point State Parks offer a grand view of the canyon from their overlooks. On our return to Wellsboro we had a good lunch at the diner. The macaroni and cheese was like grandmother used to make. The homemade beef vegetable soup was also very good. The street lamps in Wellsboro are gas fueled and each holds four mantles. We returned to the B&B and relaxed, as it was a rainy afternoon. We later returned to town and explored the shops. On Central Ave is a bakery and deli combination with a good-sized area for eating in. A folk singer named Ray Owens performed for a small crowd there. He put on an entertaining show. Our dinner at the Penn Wells Hotel had potential but missed the mark. We finished the evening with a movie at the old time Movie Theater in town.

October 23, 1999

It was a typical fall morning with cool temperatures and darkly overcast sky’s. The colors are more advanced here in Tioga County with a good many trees stripped of their leaves while in the north around the Finger Lakes it was peak. However the landscape in late fall has it’s own charm. Our last day was rainy and it set the mood of melancholy. It was a time of thoughtful reflection and it does the soul good to listen to the pitter-patter of the raindrops. Our day was sadly uneventful because the train ride we planed to take was cancelled due to an accident that occurred the night before. We drove home down back roads in the rain. We stopped at Saint Mary’s Pa to have lunch at a wonderful Inn but it was closed for lunch. Along the way we managed to see a few Elk. Then we stopped at the Clarion River Lodge to have dinner but could only have lunch. The lunch was good and the lodge has a nice fireplace to take the chill off. Cook Forest was beautiful and the Clarion River was flowing through it gracefully. I stopped to take a few photos then we took route 80 and 79 home.

Best Beer in the World

There is a tavern outside Pittsburgh, Pa called the Sharp Edge near Crafton Ingram. The owner was knighted in Belgium for having such a broad selection of true Belgian beers. These beers are rich full bodied brews, and some brewed by monks called trapist beers.
The Sharp Edge also carries my personal favorite on tap, a Bavarian double bock affectionately nicknamed “ Old Goat” because of the artwork on the outer label but its true name is “Celebrator Double Bock” brewed by Ayinger brewery. It is not an easy brew to find but if you do spot it by heavens do give it a try. It is a beer that has a dominant malty taste. This beer’s origins are in a monk’s recipe and reflected in its heartiness. It is also known as The Pope of Beers, Conrad Seidl, describes it as: “Almost black with a very slight red tone, a sensational, festive foam and truly extraordinary fragrance that at first summons up visions of the Austrian Alps. The first taste is of mild fullness with an accompanying coffee tone, which becomes more dominant with the aftertaste. There is very little of the sweetness that is frequently to be tasted with doppelbock beer.” The Ayinger Celebrator has been ranked among the best beers of the world by the Chicago Testing Institute several times and has won numerous platinum medallions.. 11.2 oz brown bottle with a plastic trinket goat tied around the neck. No freshness date, not to worry as this brew has a longer shelf life that normal beers. It is also described as having an earthy, nutty-bordering-on-woody nose with sweet roasted malt accents. A rich, frothy entry leads to an off-dry, full-bodied palate with intense raisin, dried fruit compote, roasted nuts, and mild molasses flavors. Finishes with an earthy mild hops and toasted dark nut bread fade with a lingering vinous note. A distinctive and delicious doppelbock Celebrator is the finest German beer. It is a bottom-fermented, dark double buck bier.Alcohol content: 6.7 %

New Gallary

New Gallary at
http://picasaweb.google.com/ricklionheart222

Those with dial up will need to wait for the site to load. Double click on the donkys then double click the pic it will appear in poor qualtiy at first then clear up.

Enjoy

Grand Tetons & Yellowstone

Wyoming Vacation of 2004

Howdy partner, I would like to tell you the story of our North West Wyoming adventure and about the wild beauty of the west that we explored. So, sit back and let old Rodeo Rick explain what might be difficult to believe. But believe you me it’s all true.

It’s best to start from the beginning so let’s start at the airport. The adventure started off with only me being taken from Pittsburgh to Wyoming on a silver-bellied gas-guzzler on June 19 2004. During the flight over our great country, I looked out the window and could see vast farmlands and snow caped mountains. So many farms covered the land like a checkerboard that it’s no wonder we feed the world. As the 757 approached the Jackson Hole Airport, the grandeur of the Tetons came into view and they were shockingly imposing. The jet flew over Jackson Lake and then the mountains. The tall jagged peaks loomed over the valley like sentinels guarding a mythical kingdom. It is no wonder that the indigenous Indian tribes of the west bivouacked at their base and the pioneers of the west followed.

After Alamo car rental gave me a brand spanking new Impala with only 14 miles on it, I drove off and was greeted by a big wooden sign that read, “Welcome to Jackson Hole the last of the old west”. It’s worth mentioning at this point that the Jackson Airport is quite small. It has a tented area outdoors used for waiting passengers of flights going out. It only takes about one or two flights at a time and very few during the week. It’s also located within Grand Teton National Parks boundaries. It might be something like what you would find in a remote part of Alaska.

As I left the airport area, I could see that the valley floor was carpeted with sagebrush and wildflowers as far as the eye could see. An endless variety and colors blanketed the whole area. Reds and yellows, lavender lupines and bright yellow sunflowers joined the aromatic sagebrush covering the fields. I had the feeling that I arrived in Oz. Then from the ground, I turned my gaze toward the Teton Mountain Range and was shell shocked at their mighty and imposing dominance. The majesty of there snow capped peaks gives testament to the great beauty of America. Photographs and western movies are woefully inadequate in delivering the same impact as they do face to face. The classic Hollywood movie “Shane” only gives an indication of their awesome beauty.

I drove into Jackson Wyoming to pick up some film for the camera. Back then I had a film camera the Nikon FM3A. No matter if you are a hobbyist, professional or amateur photographer a camera is necessary in this region. Jackson is a small western town with less than nine thousand residence. During the ride down, I continued to be stunned by the profusion of multicolored wildflowers and the beauty of the valley. It was of such a degree that I came dangerously close to smashing the nice new Impala into on coming recreational vehicle. The air was cool and fresh, and the aromatic scent of sage is ubiquitous. Jackson has everything one might need but is also relatively limited when compared to the built up areas back home. I found my film and had a quick lunch then returned to the Airport to pick up my cousin Eric.

Our weeklong quest was now joined and the adventure began exploring this wonderland right away. We traveled north on the main road and found a place called Swabachers Landing. A narrow dirt road leads down to the Snake River and offers unparallel views of the Tetons. A brightly colored yellow bird flew near and a coyote ran across the road during the trip down. The little yellow bird is a real jewel. Prairie Dogs scampered all around very active and busy or just having fun. After Swabachers Landing, we drove north to the Colter Bay Cabins. Along the way, we saw great herds of Bison marching across the planes with small newborn calves following behind.

Checking into the Colter Bay Cabins, we found them to be accommodating but basic. The cabin is a small box constructed of the indigenous lodge pole pine. I retrieved the tripod that I had sent by courier and we had dinner then ventured north toward Yellowstone. The road leading to the Teton sister National Park is unpaved and under construction. Major road construction occurs every year in and around Yellowstone so it is best to be aware of the locations. When we enter the park, we can see the rebirth of the fire-ravaged forest. While the charred remains of the lodge pole pines that once championed this forest stand naked and dead, new small pines about 6 to 8 feet tall blanket the base of each of them. The meadows and wetlands are picturesque. Many Elk graze along the road. We stop to take photographs of the Elk. After a short drive, we are greeted by the first geothermal feature at West Thumb Geyser basin. The sunset cast a soft orange glow over the steam that vents from the ground and with that, we returned to the cabin.

Sunday June 20, 2004

Early, before dawn, we got up and went to photograph Oxbow bend at sunrise. Oxbow Bend is a famous picturesque location along the Snake River where Mount Moran reflects into the waters below. Early morning sunrise is the best light to photograph this spectacular spot. Other photographers joined me at the location and we exchanged opinions on the best way to take the shot. When the sun did cast its mellow morning light on the mountaintop the camera shutters went off. A cool auburn slightly glimmers over the mountaintop at the instant the sun breaks. After that, it’s a race against time. A short time later we saw a huge bull Elk cross Leigh Lake at sunrise.

Along our way to Cascade Canyon near Jenny Lake, we saw a Moose in the willows feeding. I snapped off a bunch of shots and the Moose remained fearless throughout. Every time there is significant wildlife located a group of vehicles are pulled off the side of the road. If the wildlife is highly significant such as a black bear with cubs then it becomes a circus and park rangers do what they can to control the situation, as I will explain later in this work.

Cascade Canyon is a ravine that is traversed by a roaring mountain stream that is accessible by boat or a 3-mile hiking path. We decided to take the boat and climb up the mountain from its base along the lakeshore. The boatman warns of bear activity and that we should keep our distance if one is near. The hike is moderately difficult but well within the abilities of most people if paced well. The mountain air is thin and we found ourselves short of breath many times. This time we only climbed a short distance, about four thousand feet. Later in the week, we will climb the same mountain to seven thousand feet. The stream that flows down the mountainside is spectacular. I asked Eric where the water comes from and he replied that the water is coming from heaven like the never-ending springs of Valhalla. What a prophetic truth. It is a rushing torrent of Alpine snowmelt. During our travels through this unbelievable land, I stopped and wondered to myself if it’s all a dream and that I have died and passed into heaven. Nevertheless, the cool mountain air and the sent of pine brings me back and I realize that it’s actually happening.

After the hike, Eric and I went into Jackson to find a place for lunch and after asking around, we were guided to a great Mexican restaurant. The place is called “El Abuelito” at 385 West Broadway. The Mexican food is out of this world and comes highly recommended. We saw many Elk along the road as we drove down to Jackson. After lunch we went into Teton Village to ride the tram to the top of Rendezvous mountain about ten thousand feet up. The top is cold and windy and its great cliffs are fearfully steep. From the top, one can see the whole valley below and the great expanses of the sagebrush flats. It is truly a sight to see.

When we arrived back down at the bottom of the mountain we explored several back roads looking for wild life and that awesome photo shot. As I drove down a dusty road and continued to be shell shocked as to the wealth of wild flowers painting the ground I stopped to photograph a stand of large yellow sunflowers near a fallen tree. Eric proclaimed that it was just like a three-layered cake. “You have the flowers, the mountains, and the sunset all in one shot; it’s a three-layered cake”. I hardily agreed and took the shot. The location was down a road called Pilgrim Road. The back roads can be a bit difficult but the views of the mountains are rewarding to those that adventure down them. Also, during the early and late hours one will find greater numbers of wildlife down these roads.

We discovered that few concessions or amenities exist within the park and its best to take a cooler of food along the way to keep everyone happy. Gas can also be an issue and should be carefully monitored. The amenities that do exist within the park are a little pricey.

Monday June 21, 2004

We got up at three in the morning to travel up into Yellowstone and capture the Canyon Falls at dawn. It’s an 80-mile trip and off we went. As we approached the Hayden Valley inside Yellowstone, we had to stop because dawn was chasing the twilight away and we could see great herds of Bison gathered upon the rolling hillside shrouded in early morning fog. I had to take the shot while the chance was given me. When we got out of the car, we herd the call of the coyote and then saw two coyote cross the road ahead. Along the Yellowstone River Pelican drifted on the streaming water like white water rafters.

The Bison like to use the roads to travel on. As Eric and I approached the Yellowstone Canyon and started across the bridge, leading to the south rim road a huge Bison emerged from the pine trees and slowly made his stand in the middle of the bridge blocking our way. I backed up the car to allow him to cross then realized what a great shot it would make to capture a huge Bison crossing over a bridge. I got out taking some shots and the noble monarch advanced to the car. I stood behind the car door using it as a shield. Little else remained between me and the boss but the car door and an arms length. He looked at me with those deep dark eyes and I at him then he marched off. My heart pounding in my chest I got back in the car and gave the maker thanks. The encounter could have been much worse and several people each year are gored by bison.

The Yellowstone Canyon is a fantastic sight. The jagged rock cliffs are a bright shade of yellow and orange. The morning light plays on these cliffs and embellishes them with even greater magnificence. During this time of year, the waterfalls are rushing as torrents and the waterfalls at the canyons beginning were no exception. It was a wonderful sight and we took many photographs. Several professional photographers joined us at the falls. On our journey to the waterfalls, we saw two bull elk in full velvet. Its worth mentioning that the traffic was not as congested as I anticipated and in the early hours we had the whole park to ourselves.

Again, it is impossible to ignore the wildfire damage in Yellowstone. Thin burnt and branchless lodge pole pines are ubiquitous and scatter the landscape in countless numbers. However, young pines have spawned at the base of each charred tree and hold the promise of newness to come. In twenty years time the forested landscape of the park will ounce again be green and abundant with life. Regardless of the wildfire damage, the park remains a marvel and offers countless landscapes of majestic beauty.

We traveled the lower park loop and stopped at the Old Faithful area. Many geysers and geothermal features surround the Old Faithful area. Because Old Faithful is a national icon, everyone gathers around to watch it go off. The anticipation builds then suddenly, after a few false alarms, it fires off, heavy steam fills the air, and everyone snaps photos of it as fast as they can.
Dinner at the Old Faithful Inn was nostalgic. The whole structure of the Inn is constructed with indigenous timbers. It’s a sight to see. The main gathering area is wide open with a huge stone fireplace and a very high ceiling. It gives one the feeling of going back in time to the old west.
We traveled around to find a good sunset spot and after capturing a few shots, we returned to the Cabin down south at Colter Bay.

Tuesday June 22, 2004

We made a change in plans because the sky was clear as crystal and the day would be perfect for mountain photography. Therefore, we stayed in Grand Teton National Park to take advantage of the opportunity. At dawn, we returned to Oxbow bend and created more artistic images with the camera. At Oxbow Bend Otters played in the river and Pelicans made a show in the distance. We then drove down to Leigh Lake to capture the reflections that are cast on the waters. This is a perfect location for any photographer to be during the early morning. Then we traveled down a small road named Wilson Road that connects Moose Junction to Teton Village. Along this road is wetlands and marsh that the Moose are attracted to because of the willows that grow there. Well, while we drove down the road we suddenly saw several vehicles pulled off to the side of the road. A baby Moose was gently feeding amongst the willows. We went down into the wetland area and took all kinds of shots. The Moose was unfazed by our presence. It might have been dangerous if mother came around but we saw no sign of her. We accomplished all of this before 7:30 in the morning.

Then we doubled back on the main road to Swabachers Landing and got some great shots near Snake River Overlook where Ansil Adams created his famous black and white image of the Teton Mountain Range with the winding Snake River as a foreground. Around 9:30 in the morning, the sun turns the air hot and dry. The dry air can cause some trouble if not prepared for it. We used DEET to keep the bugs off and it works well.

Later in the afternoon, we returned to Yellowstone. If you do not travel into the park early, you can expect lots of traffic as we encountered. After getting past the traffic, we explored the many geyser areas and waterfalls. Places like Mud Volcano, Sulphur Caldron, and Fountain Paint Pots. Keepler Cascade is not worth stopping at because the view of the falls is obstructed. We saw a lot of wildlife as we drove around, Mule Deer, Elk, Bison, Coyote, and several different birds. At this point in the trip, we did not yet see any bear but hold on to your holster cowboy the story is not over until the black bear growls. At a place called Niez Pierce, a dead Bison was in the field and left a strong odor. Some folks gathered around the place hoping a wolf or grizzly might stop by to check it out.

We decided to drive all the way up to Mammoth Hot Springs and go into the Lamar Valley. Along the way, we encountered a multitude of vehicles pulled off to the side of the road and forest rangers controlling traffic. Off in the ravine to the side of the road was a black bear with two playful cubs. What a sight to see. We both got out and started shooting all kinds of photographs. Many professional photographers lined the road and some people just sat there enjoying the sight. On the way back we saw another black bear in the woods more distant from the road. What a day.

Wednesday June 23, 2004

We got up with the birds once more and drove directly to Swabachers Landing. As we approached the beaver lodge on the water, we saw that a Moose was feeding in the nearby willows. It was another three-layered cake, the mountains, the moose, and the beaver lodge all in one shot. National Geographic could not ask for more. What a perfect start to the day. Eric and I had an outdoor breakfast at the Chuck Wagon near Moose Junction overlooking the mountains.

I went to the meeting area to go on the Snake River Float trip. The float trip was magical. The big stones that cover the riverbed are all smooth and rounded. The crystal clear water let me see down to the bottom and when the sunlight hit the stones, I could see that they are a mosaic of colors. It almost seems too good to be real that such a riverbed would be like that. However, the float trip guide explained that the stones were created over thousands of years through glacial action on them. Our guide was very informative and gave use quite a lesson about local history. During the float trip we past under an American Bald Eagle and her nest. Two fledgling Eaglets looked out over the top of the nest. The mother was carefully protecting the nest and her children. The air is filled with the fresh scent of pine while the float raft meanders down the river.

It was about this time that all the running around caught up with us and we just could not go on without rest. Eric and I went into town and had a second helping of the Mexican food then returned to the cabin to nap between two in the afternoon until six in the evening. I slept like a baby. The alarm sounded and we got up to tackle the back roads once again. I looked at the mileage and was shocked to see that we put on over one thousand miles. In the backwoods, we spotted a huge Elk cow.

After our nap, we went to the top of Signal Mountain. Along the way, I could not help but stop and take photographs of the Wyoming State Flower, the Indian Paint Brush. Indian Paint Brush is a bright red flower that is not as common as many of the others that carpet the landscape. At the top of Signal Mountain, you can see a great deal of the valley below and with binoculars you can see great herds of Bison and Elk along with Mule Deer and Pronged Horn Deer. The valley view is spectacular. Much to our amazement a sage grouse walked along the roadside very slowly and allowed us to take its photo with little care.

Thursday June 24, 2004

We got up late today and at 6:30 in the morning we started out to find a power breakfast. The best place to eat that we found was the Signal Mountain Lodge Restaurant. After a good cup of coffee and some grub, we decided to hike up Cascade Canyon one more time. This time we are going all the way to Hidden Falls and seven thousand feet up. The waterfall is visionary and mythical. Alpine snow melt cascading over a steep cliff in unreal amounts. The spray was getting everyone around the base wet and a fine mist filled the air as it does at Niagara Falls. I made my best attempt to capture it on film considering the conditions. Suddenly everyone started to look into the trees at the base of the waterfalls and there in the trees was a huge Moose feeding. We returned to the bottom of the mountain and took the boat ride back over Jenny Lake. The cool mountain air embraced us along the way.

We stopped a moment to thank God for such a wonderful trip and to remember that love of country and flag has nothing at all to do with government.

Our last trip to Yellowstone National Park was blessed with beautiful scenery and lots of wild life spotting. During the ride up into the other park, we saw a Bull Moose feeding in the distance off the road. As we traveled down to the Fishing Bridge area of Yellowstone, we explored many geothermal attractions like Dragons breath and Dragons mouth steam vents. The road leading to Steamboat Point had a good number of wildlife, such as American Bald Eagle, a small herd of Bison, and a Brown Bear on the move with park rangers policing the situation just as before up in the Lamar Valley. All of these wild animals were in close proximity to each other. I got out of the car and chased down the road to get some shots of the brown bear. The rangers stopped me after a while. What an excellent day.

Friday June 25, 2004

Sleep in today then had a two-hour horseback ride. The wranglers at the stables were very professional and the trip took me to locations you just won’t see unless you hike back to the same area the horse trail is. Spectacular views of the Teton’s are all over the place during the ride. Two hours was a little too long and my hindquarters and knees complained rather forcefully at the end of the ride. I got some nice shots
of the wranglers and horses. The horse I was on was named Comanche and it was well behaved.

Back down in Jackson a nice girl told us to have lunch at the Cowboy Bar. I was not going to go to the Cowboy Bar because I didn’t think it had food. Well, when we got into the place it was more like an old west museum than a bar. The whole place is western to a tee. The bar stools are saddles, western collectables, like guns and cowboy clothing and spurs are on display in showcases. The whole place is decorated with western art and just had a great feeling about it. It is a must see for anyone traveling through town. The food is not bad and the drinks are good.

The Gross Venture Pass road outside of Kelly is very scenic and along the way is a hot springs swimming area. It’s free to the public and on public lands. The water must not be too hot because all kinds of people were down in it having a good old time. When we returned down the road, we went over to Antelope Flats Road and hundreds of Bison congregated on the flats. More Bison than we had seen during the whole trip. Many had calf’s following behind among the wildflowers and sagebrush. The famous barns from an old abandoned ranch set off the view tremendously. Eric and I took many photographs.


Saturday June 26, 2004

Our last day in Gods country and we wanted to stay but had to go. Eric and I had our last breakfast under the mighty towers of the Teton Range at Signal Mountain Lodge. Then we drove down the park road to the Airport. I looked down at the mileage, saw 1580, and could not believe it but then again we did do a whole lot of driving. Our flights left at close to the same time and back home we flew.

In conclusion, I must say a few last words. It is beyond my ability to adequately explain the breathtaking beauty of this land. The mountains are arresting and megalithic. The endless fields of wildflowers are mind-boggling, as if a huge aircraft flew over and dropped billions of flower seeds. The wildlife is so abundant that at almost every turn one will encounter some kind of wild animal. The air is aromatic and clean with the scent of sage and pine. The roads are clean and unpolluted as if people know that this is sacred land and irreverent to litter it. I can only say that, if possible, every American should see and enjoy this part of our National Heritage.

Great North West Vacation

Great North West Vacation of 2005



June 24 2005

Upon my arrival Eric meet me at the airport and we were off and running.

Eric’s family has a very nice home that was comfortable and inviting. The dog and cat loved me, as it should be with all those I encounter.

After being acclimated to the area, Eric and I explored the Columbia River Gorge vicinity on the Oregon side of the river. This realm is blanketed in lush green forest and waterfalls abound. As we took every opportunity to stop and admire each waterfall we encountered a foolhardy dare devil whom base jumped from the top of one of the more spectacular falls. This was a big surprise because we had no idea that he was up at the top ready to do this at the time it occurred. It was a very short distance for base-jumping and if his shut did not deploy perfectly it would have been a bad time, but everything worked out.

The Columbia River Gorge is very dynamic and so many features of its beauty would require many years to fully appreciate. However, we only had a day and we did the best we could. We had lunch at the base of the most impressive falls in the region; Multnomah Falls. This ostentatious waterfalls cascades down a steep precipice in two tears creating a dazzling picture. The hiking path leads to a bridge that spans across the bottom of the first tear. The immensity of the primordial forest was too great to comprehend with my inadequate intellect. Great fur trees and red cedar tower above, clothed in a gracefully woven patchwork of moss.

Our exploration of the Columbia River Gorge area on the first Saturday after my arrival put us one day ahead of schedule. Therefore, on Sunday we made it a day getting to the coast. Along the way to Canon Beach in Oregon, we found many interesting farmlands and the countryside was blanketed in wildflowers. We stopped on Highway 26 and had breakfast at the Elderberry Inn and Restaurant. This was a lucky find, as the breakfast was very good and much to my surprise homemade strawberry jelly was brought out for our enjoyment. This jelly was so good I ordered a pint to go. We found Canon Beach to be quite a tourist town and access to the famous Hay Stack Rock out on the beach is limited. Eric and I stopped and had lunch at a new establishment close to the beach.

Just outside the tourist town of Canon Beach is Ecola State Park. The view of Canon beach from the viewpoint area inside Ecola State Park is very pleasant and many postcard photographs one might see of it are captured from this park area. During this time, the climate was cool and overcast with a lite drizzle most of the day. We spent the day in and around the coastal regions of Oregon then made our way to the town of Astoria to lodge overnight at the Red Lion Inn.

On Monday morning, we got an early start and had a complimentary breakfast at the Inn. We crossed over into Washington State again and proceeded up route 101 north along the coast. Fog and drizzle accompanied us during our drive. An engaging observation during this section of the trip is that brightly colored Foxglove grows wild along the roadside in abundance. Eric and I observed a few Elk in fields along the way but not in the great quantity that we had hoped.

Sol Duc Falls

At Southbend Washington, the Oyster harvesting industry is very big. We stopped and I photographed some of the Oystermen at work. They load huge traps onto the boats and sail out to gather others then place the empty ones. It was fascinating to see the operation in action.

The lumber industry is also an enormous part of the Northwest economy. Countless logging trucks race down the roads with tons of logs. The clear-cut areas are replanted with new trees and like a colossal farm; the hillsides and woodlands are harvested according to a specific schedule. This schedule is posted along the roadside.

Highway 101 winds its way up along the coast and inland going to Olympic National Park. We stopped at Ruby beach and found many tidal pools with starfish and sea anemone trapped on the beach. The sea stacks are numerous and the beach is covered with a mosaic of rainbow painted rocks. While we left the Ruby beach area, I noticed a sign indicating the tsunami evacuation route.

Traveling up route 101, we stop at the Quinalt Rainforest and then the Hoh Rain Forest. Both rainforest are stunning but time did not permit us to investigate them fully. Countless old growth trees dwell within this forest. These Douglas fur and Western Red Cedar are thousands of years old and tower high above creating a canopy. Bulky mounds of green moss drape over everything. Eric asked a person if they knew the location of “The Hall of Moses” because I told him such a place existed inside the rainforest. The funny thing was that the true name of the place is “The Hall of Mosses” so we all had a big laugh and I will need to go back to school and learn to read again.

Upon arriving at Lake Crescent Lodge inside Olympic National Park, we checked in and found our room. The lodge is old and well preserved in its age. The main sitting area has a large fireplace with a stone hearth. A great Elk head hangs on the wall above the fireplace and Native American Indian Mask’s decorate the lobby all around. After settling in, I had dinner inside the lodge restaurant. The restaurant is a four-star gourmet experience. The mouth-watering crab cakes were out of this world and I wish I had the recipe for them. The roast duck was charmingly presented and smothered in a sophisticated sauce consisting of truffles and Elderberry wine. I was very happy with the dinner and the surroundings of the celebrated lodge. Lake Crescent is pristine and encircled with lush green mountains. The lake water has an emerald translucence that reminded me of ocean waters I saw around the Caribbean Islands. Outside the lodge, the air is filled with a commanding scent of cedar and pine.

Although the lodge offers top-notch cuisine at its restaurant, less affluent accommodations for food and not to mention gas are few and far between. One might find themselves trapped inside the area without gas if not careful. The lodge does not supply ordinary hot dogs or hamburgers, so it’s best to be prepared for this when visiting. While on the subject of convenience, it is also worth mentioning that many of the few stores or gas stations that are around will close at very inopportune hours, this too should be well thought-out when visiting.

On Tuesday morning, it was an early start going to The Heart of the Hills location. This region of the park is accessed through the only city near the north part of the park; Port Angeles. The accent up to The Heart of the Hills is 17 miles. The road going up is unforgiving, with steep cliffs and drop offs along the side. Several switchbacks make the drive very interesting to say the least. Along the way, wildflowers dazzle the eye with scarlet Indian Paint bush, violet lupine, Shasta daisy, and immeasurable other colorful species everywhere. The wildflowers cover the hillsides with endless rainbows. The mountains rise into the clouds and lush forests of pine blanket them filling the wind with their cool scent.

At the top are a few buildings and a spectacular view of the Olympic Mountains. A hotshot photographer with an 8x10 box camera was set up photographing the spectacle. The snow caped mountains shimmer in the distance while meadows blanketed in early blooming flowers extend out in front of you. I proceeded to hike down one of the trails and was greeted by a dazzling array of multicolored flowers and grand views of the mountains. The fresh mountain air was cool and the visit was all that I could hope it would be. A park ranger informed me that the wildflowers were near peak. A male deer appeared out of the trees and slowly meandered its way towards me without a care in the world. Its new antlers were in full velvet as it grazed upon the meadows.

Before we went to Hurricane Ridge, we stopped for a short drive in the Elwaha Valley and it was very nice during the early morning hours. Fog and mist embraced the forest and a mountain stream follows the road along the way. Huge banana slugs are everywhere and difficult to avoid.

After our return to Port Angeles from Hurricane Ridge, we traveled to a place known as Deer Park Road. This road is nice going into the park and many deer are in the area. A mother crossed the road in front of Eric’s truck and two fawns followed her into a patch of snow-white wildflowers. Both Eric and I attempted at capturing and image of the sight but fell short. Such is the story of my life, nevertheless on with the show.

Deer Park road becomes an unforgiving and treacherous dirt path that ascends into deep-forested woodlands. This journey into certain doom became too much for my frail heart and we decided to turn back. I was sure that I saw a sign that said, “Witches castle this way, I’d turn back if I were you”. Therefore, we did just that.

At this point, we decided to travel the long road to Cape Flattery. The ever-present lumber trucks kept us alert as we made our way to the Makah Indian Reservation. The harbor inside Neah Bay is filled with old fishing boats that serve as an outstanding backdrop to the feeling one gets around this place. Sights such as this enabled Ernest Hemmingway to write his inspirational novels. Bald Eagles are much more common in the Northwest than back out East and we saw several fishing around Neah Bay. The views from Cape Flattery are superb. A lighthouse stands alone on top of a huge rock out away from shore and the mist covers everything. It gave me the feeling that I was admiring a Winslow Homer oil painting. The ocean waves crash over the rocks and sea gulls take flight in great clouds with their familiar calls.

I am uncertain weather the journey out to Cape Flattery was worth it but have no regrets as it is a wonderment to view the Pacific at its best. On our way back, Eric spotted an Owl sitting on top of a signpost along side of the road. We stopped and I got out photographing it. It did not move as I approached closer but then took flight. Our drive back was long and when we arrived at the lodge, I made sure to get a drink at the bar inside the lodge. Food was unavailable anywhere during this time. Everything shuts after five or six in the evening. The bar tender was kind enough to find a bowl of seafood chowder for me in the kitchen. This chowder is incredible and I gave the bar tender a tip which reflected my gratitude.

On Wednesday morning, Eric and I started out to the Rialto Beach area of the park. As we traveled down the road, the wild Foxglove stood in great numbers along the way. We stopped to see a black bear feeding in the distance. At the Rialto Beach, location is another Indian Reservation and a small village called La Push. Although Rialto Beach is a nice place to visit, we did not arrive at low tide, or if we did, did not know where to go in order to see the Sea Stars and Sea Anemones. The beach is covered in multicolored smooth stones. When the stones are wet with water the color shines like costly gems. The shore is embellished with driftwood and this adds to the picturesque ambiance of the place. Ruby beach was better than Rialto beach and if time will not allow both, go to Ruby beach.

After Rialto Beach, we backtracked to Sol Duc Falls. This area of the park is very nice and well worth the time spent. The old growth forest that surrounds the main attraction is lush and full of singing birds of all types. The easy path guides you down to the waterfalls. A bridge crosses the cascading stream allowing you to look over it to witness the marvelous sight of three waterfalls flowing into a great gorge. Each of the three falls is formed from one alpine mountain stream flowing from the Olympic Mountains. It was quite an enjoyable walk down and back.

We returned to Lake Crescent Lodge in time to have dinner at the affluent restaurant again. This time I took it easy on the wallet and had some fancy chicken dish. As everything else, this too was scrumptious. After dinner, I sat in front of the fireplace and relaxed in a big overstuffed chair. I talked with a fellow photographer and exchanged stories of the Northwest experience. The evening was topped off with a pictorial sunset behind the mountains that glittered scarlet and chartreuse over the lake.

On Thursday morning, we got another early start and headed out to Mount Rainer National Park. I had little knowledge at this point that Olympic National Park served as an appetizer for Mount Rainer. Along the way, we stopped at several attractions such as but not limited to the Dungeness Wildlife Refuge, Dosewallips, and some Hood Canal oyster operations. The wildlife refuge did not open its gates until 7am, which made us wait for it. The area is interesting but was uneventful and our stay was short. As we made our way to Mount Rainer, numerous firework stands litter the roadside. Native Americans of the Northwest sell fireworks in small roadside shacks to make a few dollars. It was close to July 4 and Washington State allows fireworks during the week around this time.

When Eric and I arrived at Mount Rainer, we passed our lodging accommodation in a small town named Ashford just outside the park and drove directly into the park. At the Nisqually entrance is a place called the Gateway Inn and it looks like a very nice place to stay. Our intention was to drive up the road that leads to a place aptly named Paradise. As we ascend this mountain road, the vista becomes more and more spectacular. After a little while, we suddenly realized the gas level in the truck was precariously low so we abandoned our quest to reach Paradise and returned to Ashford for gas and the evening. We stayed at a place called Whitakers Bunk House and it looks nice from the road but the rooms are small and stuffy.

Early Friday morning we set out to cover as much of the park as possible. The mountain was blanketed in clouds but that failed to slow us down. We travel the road to Paradise and this time we made it. What a breathtaking place. I cannot find the words to satisfactorily describe this heaven on earth. Wildflowers feed the numerous deer that frolic in the meadows without a care. The snow caped mountain is towering over you while the fresh scent of mountain pine fills the air. It all comes together here and we returned to this place several times during our visit. In the evening as the sun retreats, its warm rays bath the mountainside. In the morning, mist and clouds create a sublime mystery that touches the soul.

This is Late June and the buds of what promised to be a dreamlike display of lupine and Indian paintbrush along with countless other flowers were abundantly clear. From what I saw, it looked like mid to late July would have been the perfect time to witness this impending kaleidoscope of color. Nevertheless, the early flowers offered a very rewarding show in there own right.

Unlike the road that leads to the spiritual paradise, the roadway that leads to this Paradise is unforgiving. A good amount of the driving can be challenging. However, along this road is unparalleled beauty that for those determined enough to witness will not soon forget. All and every turn out should be used to rest and view the majesty unfolding before you. God, how I love America.

We continued to the town of Packwood to have breakfast at a nice little restaurant just inside of town. We then go back into the park for a stop at a place called “The Grove of the Patriarchs”. This is a highly recommended place to visit while in the area. The hiking path is very easy and the wildlife, trees, and streams, are enchanting. I stopped countless times to photograph trees and then I found the stream. This small mountain stream is filled with small rounded stones like those found at the ocean. Each one is a different color and when the water flows over them while the sunlight glitters across it, they sparkle like gold and diamonds. It reminded me of the rainbow of glacially formed stones that lay upon the bed of the Snake River in the Teton’s.

After spending much too little time at the Grove of the Patriarchs, we traveled to a place called Tipso Lake. The scenic view of the mountain from here is priceless. The snow-topped mountain reflects into the lake creating a perfect picture postcard. The insects are brutal around the lake but a little DEET goes a long way. If you are doing photography, be very careful with the DEET because it’s greasy and can cause some trouble.

Upward and onward to another mountain top location called Sunrise. The road trip to this place is treacherous but when we arrived, unquestionably, worth it. At Sunrise, the view is galactic. We had a small bite to eat at the Sunrise visitor’s center and explored the area. This area being at a higher elevation had a little more time left before wildflower activity. Some snow was still on the ground. It would not be worth the effort to get here, in my opinion, until after late July or so.

On our way back to Ashford, we stopped again at Paradise to take advantage of the evening light.

Saturday morning we got another early start and stopped a third time at Paradise; just in case my soul never makes it, I can say my body did. Eric and I then stopped again at the same place in Packwood for breakfast before heading back to Vancouver. Along the way back home, we made a detour to visit Mount Saint Helens National Monument. As in Mount Rainer National Park, signs indicating the volcano evacuation route are posted along the road. The weather was unkind and kept the volcano hidden from view. Wild huckleberries grow along the roadside. The regeneration of the woodlands around the volcano is interesting to see. The forest service and lumber companies worked to replant endless numbers of fur trees. We did see the lower section of the trench that was created from the explosion. The visitor’s center is focused on educational exhibits and programs for the public.

When we arrived in Vancouver, it was agreed that the family and I would all go out to dinner and celebrate another day of living. It was an enjoyable evening. Eric and I had a great time adventuring around the great North West. Appreciating its immense beauty would require a lifetime.