Dolly Sods of West Virginia

Adventure to a Realm Known as Dolly Sods

Saturday, October 3, 2009

In West Virginia, south of Blackwater Falls, in the Appalachian Mountains of Monongahela National Forest is a wilderness area known as the Dolly Sod’s. This special place is found on a mountain top and is home to countless types of flora not found in the lower valley. Vast fields stretch across the mountain top that boast wild cranberry and blueberry that turn brilliant colors during this time of the year. Rich crimson and vermillion with shades of scarlet and maroon blanket the meadows while various other trees and plants embellish those few locations that remain. Great rocks and boulders are found decorating portions of the undergrowth like sentinels keeping watch. A single and narrow nine mile dirt pathway offers accessibility to vehicles. This pathway leads the adventurer back to a location known as Bear Rocks, where I found ample evidence of the resident bear family in the form of scat near the parking area.

My good friend Jana invited me to spend a weekend camping. Since I have never been to this place and love to discover new realms, I decided to accept her offer. Much to my delight, it was both rewarding and fun. Her friend Mary Jo joined in and all three of us enjoyed photographing the Dolly Sods with Jana as our veteran guide.

From Pittsburgh at 5:30am, I traveled the 200 mile journey down 79S, 68E, 7E, 219S, and 32S to Lanesville Road designated as Forest Route 19. Both 219 and 32 are very nice and scenic routes with bucolic farmlands. As the elevation increased the fall colors became more pronounced. Some sections of the mountains were bedazzled with orange, lemon, and ruby but it was about a week early. I had to stop many times to try and capture the beauty on a memory flashcard. After climbing up remorseless roads leading to Dolly Sods, I arrived at 10:30am and found Jana and Mary Jo already well into a day of photography along the dirt pathway. So, the 200 mile trip down, traveling secondary roads half the time, stopping several times to photograph and a sit down breakfast in the small town of Thomas WV, took about five hours.

The adventure was on and Jana made sure to show me all of her favorite locations across the mountain top. Jana is 78 years young and this 48 year old man found it difficult to keep up with her. She has an engaging history that is noteworthy in learning to respect her. To make her biography short, anything you or I have endured is dwarfed by the journey she has traveled in this life. Yet, at the same time, she has been blessed with many joyful and wonderful experiences as well.

Some of the stellar locations she revealed to me were bog trails with countless, unique to the area, flora, including many varieties of fern, moss, wildflowers, and the like. The overlook treats spectators to a vast view of the Appalachian Mountains that neighbor the one we stood upon. Layer after layer fade into the distance like fog. The Bear Rock location opens up into a fantastic view of wide meadows of wild cranberry and blueberry red with the season. Gray rocks rise up above it all looking down upon the place protectively. As they should, Dolly Sods wilderness area should be added to the honored list of National Monuments in an effort to further protect her.

Since the blue bird sky was so clear, we decided that the sunset would not be among the most spectacular that have set upon the mountains and turned in for the evening. Along with photography, cooking is another of Jana’s many talents. Her beef stew was a welcome delight after a good day of trail blazing.

Our camp site is a primitive one with no electricity or any other amenity other than two relatively new outhouses within a short walk and a very sturdy picnic table. As the sun went down so too did the temperature and not long after night fell the wind let its power be ever so mildly known.

Jana provided me with a tent as it has been a long time since I was tent camping and had none to bring. I was also given an air matters to help aid my comfort. We reviewed images on the laptop that was powered by a car battery by a converter. Exhausted, I turned in for the night with as much warm clothing as possible. The jug of water outside the tent said that it did not reach freezing temperatures but you could have sure fooled me. Jana and Mary Jo energetically talked into the evening continuing to review and critic the days work. I crashed like a run away train with loud snoring keeping the wildlife well distant; although, I did hear the sound of sniffing and rummaging just outside my tent. Bear warnings were posted talking about increased bear activity in the area. I became deeply concerned and decided to make additional noise besides my loud snoring and what ever critter it might have been scampered away into a remote section of the woodlands surrounding me. It might have been a dear because not long afterward the distinct snorting sound that they make echoed through the woods.

I brought a flashlight to help navigate my way in the darkness but found no need for it as the bright full moon cast glowing silver highlights over everything. Making it to the outhouse was no problem during the night. Sadly, the glory of the heavens was obscured by the bright dominance of the moonlight.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Early in the morning, Jana and I hiked to a nearby overlook to photograph the sunrise. At first we agreed that the sunrise might not be that grand because the sky lacked clouds. However, as we discussed the finer points of art photography, Mother Nature sent plenty of clouds for us. We meet a team of bird banding folks at the overlook and waited for the sun. A pale fire glow illuminated the top of a distant mountain as we watched. The air was crisp and the wind made the trees dance all around us. We set up our tripods and made prudent adjustments to our cameras and stood ready. Suddenly, at the edge of the mountain top appeared the inferno glow of brilliant orange. The fire cast magical paint onto the clouds in shades of lavender and magenta. Our camera shutters started to sing and the glory continued until a second sunrise took place above the first layers of clouds. Rays of light flashed across the Appalachians like mystical fingers, pointing to select trees or meadows for exclusive attention. Sections of forested mountainside began to glow with color as the suns power warmed the chill air. Such a spectacle is gifted only to those willing to do what is necessary to witness it. And thus began a new day filled with new opportunities and discovery.
Jana prepared a wonderful breakfast of French toast and Mary Jo provided homemade black raspberry jam to season it. We then broke camp, deciding to descend the windy mountain top and regretfully depart from Dolly Sods. The wind provided us with a small challenge while breaking camp but it was not too much trouble. Jana and Mary Jo wrote the book on how to camp. I was surprised when I heard Jana announce to Mary Jo that she was bringing the battery. I have heaved batteries of the same size on several occasions and for her to do so was yet another amazement considering that she has a bad back and a foot that has lost all feeling not to mention her 78 summers.

We took each our own vehicles down the unsympathetic mountain road into the valley and spent the day exploring several different locations nearby. Blackwater Falls is a famous local park that is bejeweled with many spectacular views of its canyon where a great waterfall resides. Elakala waterfalls can also be found down a short trail near the lodge. Jana decided to put her camera away for a moment and soaked in the view at a special canyon overlook. Some places in the high country of West Virginia are in near peak color but most places are early and should be near peak color within 10 days time.
After a picnic lunch we parted ways and I returned home. The fall colors are so close to being perfect that I told myself a return trip in another week would be time well spent. I told Jana she must write a book with the title, “Primitive Camping in Remote Wilderness for those Over 70”. It would be a best seller.

Pennsylvania Road Trip

July 11, 2009

My portion control diet came to a crashing halt today as I could take no more. The day began with a stop at Oram’s Donut Bakery in Beaver Falls Pa. This bakery is found along the main street going through town, route 18. I asked if they had any low calorie selections and the fine lady behind the counter laughed “You came to the wrong place for that”. Every confection in this place is magical. I have no idea what secret formula is used but this has got to be the best donut in the world, hands down! I think I saw a wizard in the kitchen casting a spell over the batch being pulled from the caldron.

After about 1000 calories worth, I proceeded to the Elwood City farmers market by way of route 351 from 18 in Koppel Pa. I bought a fresh cabbage that was not very big but I later found made the best coleslaw ever. Other vendors sell fresh farm cheese and one Amish man had goat cheese. This goat cheese was too rich but I got some anyway and will add it sparingly to something. The Amish also had free range chickens and the eggs produced from them which I also purchased.

Onward I went to a small community called Enon Valley along route 351 to the Slovenian Festival. This is a big annual event at the SNPJ recreation center off route 108 well north of Enon Valley village. I decided not to stay because the ethnic culture was not being represented like I would have preferred; too many carnival type vendors and not enough traditional foods.

I stopped for lunch at a small little Mom & Pop at the junction of 422 and 168 called The Hill House. I noticed a bunch of working vehicles and trucks in the small parking lot so that help me decide to try it. I enjoyed the Haddock fish sandwich and some old fashioned Mac&Cheese; so much for portion control. I also stopped at a place along the road to pick up some local corn feed beef for a Pot Roast dinner.

Along route 18, closer to New Castle Pa, the Amish begin to be noticed. I had to stop and purchase something from one of the roadside stands they have. The kids were glad to greet me and Mother came out to take care of business. The potatoes looked good with earth still covering them.

The total calorie intakes today are well over 2000, more like 3000. If you are going to visit Oram’s remember that they open at 5am and close at 2pm week days and Saturday and are closed Sunday.

New York City Adventure June 2009

First Impressions of the Big Apple

June 26, 2009

A friend and I took a 420 mile road trip to New York City from Pittsburgh, Pa. Since I have never been to this huge metropolis until now I have a fresh perspective of it.
I offer a qualifier of my opinion in that I do not relish large cities of any kind. I did not stay long enough to gain a meaningful knowledge of the city so bare with me.

We took the Pa turnpike to Carlisle then route 81 north to 78 east. Along the way we stopped in Lebanon Pa for lunch finding a great little place off 22 and 78 called Esther’s. It was much like a diner. The raspberry custard pie was made with wild picked berries and the vegetable beef soup was good.

As we progressed closer to New York we stopped at a great little village in New Jersey named Clinton. The village has a red grist mill standing tall along the creek running through town. We setup our tripods to photograph the mill. As we continued I noticed that many of the homes and buildings in this part of the country are built with local stone. Many dairy farms dot the hillsides along route 78.
After we crossed the Delaware Water Gap into the Garden State I could not help notice that the drivers are crazy. Storm clouds and wind welcomed us to New York and we continued to the Bear Mountain area 25 miles outside the city limits. Our first night was spent in Stony Point New York. We missed the spectacular sunset but could see it durning the Mets, Yanky's baseball game on the TV. It would have been better to be on Staten Island photographing the city but we were too beat from the long drive up.

June 27, 2009

Saturday morning we got a late start. A place called Deli Central in Stony Point is a great first stop in the morning. It is a local favorite and has delicious breakfast sandwiches called Sobo and Hobo. The corned beef breakfast sandwich includes home fries on it and a free coffee. Everything is fresh and good here. I got a genuine NY bagel with cream cheese.

The Palisaide Interstate Parkway is clean and a nice way to travel going to the Big Apple. Gas on the Jersey side is lower in price and nothing but full service. The parkway leads to the George Washington Bridge going into the city.

The city is a concrete jungle much the same as other cities only much bigger. Many nice parks and recreational areas are situated among the concrete. My introduction to New York City was by way of Broadway going to Little Italy and China Town. Some interesting observations are that many of the natives have small manageable dogs and walk them wherever they go. Water towers sit on top of many buildings. Fruit stands and vendors of other goods are everywhere. One should never go hungry in this city. I never saw so many yellow cabs racing up and down the streets. The traffic became more and more congested as the day worn on and the people crowd the streets late in the day. Many tongues are spoken by a diverse immigrant population including the occasional English. Many ethnic groups have sections within the city that is considered their territory.

The colossal scope of the metropolitan area boggles the mind. I wonder how they manage the logistics of everything, such as water and power supply, sewage treatment, waste disposal, and the like. Many transportation options are available including the infamous subway system. Entrance points to the subway are scattered all over the city and some are located in the most unlikely places. Bicycling around the streets is common.

An infinite number of restaurants and deli grocers line the streets. We went sight seeing to Rockefeller Center, the Empire State Building and the main entrance to Central Park. The entrance to Central Park is very busy with horse drawn carriage, rickshaws, vendors of hot pretzels and other activities. People love to ride a bike or walk in the park. Central Park is an expansive oasis in the midst of an otherwise dreadful jungle.

China Town is a congested area close to Little Italy and has open markets of seafood and many unusual food items imported from Asia. Little Italy has several shops of imported goods and quite a few Restaurant to choose from. I just had to come away being able to say that I enjoyed spaghetti in Little Italy. We decided on Grotta Azzorra on the corner of Mulberry and Broome Street. I ordered the works just to make sure to cover all the basis; spaghetti and meatballs, garlic bread, salad, fried zucchini and Peroni beer. It might have been costly but worth the experience. The tomato sauce was one of the better sauces I have had the opportunity to enjoy. The price is high but sometimes you need to bite the bullet and go for it.

I took some time to go around and photograph several vendors and markets.

The traffic became increasingly insufferable as the day advanced; horns blasting, police sirens whaling, cars and trucks screeching closer and closer. Thank God that my friend did all of the driving because I would have been hard pressed to make the attempt.

We traveled into Brooklyn across the Manhattan Bridge. Brooklyn is a different part of town with different ethnicity. The buildings and streets seem ragged around the edges relative to down town. Brooklyn is unimpressive other than the famous Coney Island where Nathan’s is located. After the sun fell closer to the horizon we made our way down to Coney Island and photographed the Cyclone Coaster. Nathan’s is a prominent establishment and you cannot go away without ordering a hotdog at Nathan’s. The darker the sky becomes the more restless the natives.
We ended the day with a visit to Grenache Village after the sunset. Grenache Village is an eclectic hodgepodge of wild clubs and hangouts leaning towards the bizarre.

June 28 2009

Sunday morning we decide to drive back into the city and down South Street to the Sea Port. Pier 17 is where the action is. This day many Porto Ricans and Latinos celebrated the day with a live band and other festive activities.

I took the water taxi on a tour to the Statue of Liberty. It was an emotional trip because it was the first time to see her close up face to face. The boat captain played God Bless America and Frank Sinatra singing NYNY.
The World Trade Center location is an incredibly large gash in the heart of the city; a wound that yet bleeds. To see the location like that in person tugs at the heart and I seemed to imagine screams echo within . Many of the surrounding structures have been cleaned up and restored to their original state. But the two towers have yet to be replaced and most likely will not for some time.

Many more attractions can be found within the city but time would not permit the experience.

June 29 2009

Monday morning we stopped at Deli Central to have our breakfast and a group of old timers gathered to socialize. They had a few funny things to say and joked with each other.

We hit the road early knowing that a long road was ahead of us back to Pittsburgh. We stopped back in Clinton and enjoyed lunch at the Clinton House restaurant. I ordered the turtle soup and sliced roast beef sandwich. The trurtle soup came with sherry and the roast beef was great. The homemade rustic bread was also very good. This famous local favorite also has an outstanding bakery. Every confection that I procured was devoured greedily soon afterward. They have a web site http://www.theclintonhouse.com/


Later in the day we stopped in Bellefonte Pa off route 80. This is a nice little town with some rather interesting Victorian architecture. The Bellefonte restaurant had good food. I enjoyed the ham and bean soup with homemade ravioli.

After 420 miles up and 420 miles back we finally returned home. Total trip miles was around 1250 miles in 4 days time.

Advice if visiting New York City
Stay in town if you can.
Use public transportation, do not rent a car
Avoid weekends and holidays, try to visit during the off season
Ask the locals for advice on where to eat and how to get around
Keep alert, pay attention, and be safe when crossing streets
The city can never be fully appreciated in just a few days you will need at least 5 to 7 days to take it all in.

Winter Season

Merry Christams to ALL my many friends. Happy New Year 2009

2008 West Virginia Fall Colors

West Virginia Autumn Colors 2008

Friday, October 10TH 2008

A friend and I traveled the mountainous roads of West Virginia photographing the vibrant colors of fall. I was a little concerned that it might be too early in the season for the colors to be at their best. However, in many locations, the colors are vibrant and captivating. The color is dependent on elevation and the types of trees in different locations. Many mountain sides reminded us of a painter’s efforts to canvas the likeness of a rainbow. Bright cheery reds and lemon yellows splashed across sloping mountainsides all along the roadways. Enough green remained to add yet another layer of color to the mosaic. We estimated the progression of color change to be at about 60% and in several locations even further along. About 700 miles of road running by Sam’s valiant driving yielded great photographic opportunities. His driving was so noble that even when he was burning rubber while passing a West Virginia Smoky Bear we got off with only a warning.

Our trip took us down route 79 south to 119 south into Philippi where the first land battle of the Civil War took place. A huge two lane covered bridge spans across the river in town. A late brunch was enjoyed on Main Street at the Medallion Restaurant a local favorite. Our waitress instructed us to Century Junction Road were another covered bridge resides. After spending some time photographing the area, we continued south along 55 skirting Monongahela National Forest. A little known natural area near the westward trek of 55 called Cranberry Botanical Area is photogenic woodlands, ferns, and old trees scattered about. We stopped to photograph a few stand out features along its roadway. It was all day going to Fayetteville across from the New River Gorge Bridge.

Saturday, October 11th 2008

Early, before dawn we hit the road going to Babcock State Park to photograph Glades Creek Gristmill. This is the most perfect setting one could imagine with a working gristmill nestled along a creek with colorful trees framing it in. The creek leads up to the mill and a more perfect picture could not be wished. The park is located off 119 along route 44. When we arrived, the night sky offered a spectacular glimpse into the cosmos. Being away from city lights we looked up to witness a clear sky filled with countless bright stars and lights. Amazing, is not adequate to explain it.
When the sun began to break and light bathed the area the view was uncloaked and the photography was on. Many other photography enthusiasts gathered with us. A few of them even spent the night in their car. The creek was not running much water, so the waterfall in front of the mill was not as impressive as I have seen it. However, with the water being relatively still the mills reflection was clear as could be.
After the sun shown its light hard on the mill the photography is no longer good and we moved on to the small lake above the mill area. Some reflections of colorful trees offered a challenge.
We decided that all that could be accomplished was, so we started back home. Our trek took us to Gauley Bridge along route 60 then onto route 39 back to 119 north. We then made time to 79 north. After making good time we decided to take one last detour from the interstate and hunt for a few more pictures. We found the West Virginia State Cemetery with Arlington like tomb stones of veterans in endless rows. We discovered a few nice barns and farmlands and a few more spectacular stands of colorfully vibrant trees on back roads.
We negotiated our way through the University of WV Mountaineer Football crowd and had a less than memorable late day lunch at a Shonnys.

All and all it was a great get away from the old grind and we got to see enough fall color to last until next year.

Pennsylvania Dutch Harvest Time 2008

Pennsylvania Dutch Harvest Time

August 9th 2008

It’s mid August and the weather is comfortably mild and sunny, I must comment about this time of year being when the growing season has begun to come to fruition. I took a ride north to bother the Amish otherwise known as the Pennsylvania Dutch for a few photos on the fly and to spare them the burden of some produce.

What is so nice about having the Amish so close to home is that everything they grow is by the most part fully organic and at a very low cost. If you travel back into the nerve center of the community, where the buggy wheel has made a trail and horse waste liters the road, you will find great deals on fresh produce. Among the offerings that I found were just picked corn on the cob, blueberries, cantaloupe, vine ripened tomatoes, fresh baked bread, peaches covered in dew, green beans, and countless canned goods. It is a real treat to return home with a carload of these things and still have cash in the wallet. I went up with $40 in the wallet and returned with $6. I have made it a habit to stop at one particular home each trip that I make. The children run out to greet me, bare feet and all. One of the boys went out into the garden to cut a fresh cabbage for me. Another woman that lives nearby has a nice sized chicken coop and sells fresh eggs. I got a dozen organic eggs from her for $1.75. I feel so bad, almost as if I have stolen something so I offer her more, but she sternly refuses me.

Along the roadways, vast farmlands stretch out in all directions and countless harvest wheat stacks are arranged in patterns across the fields. The arrangement of each is the same interesting style that has Amish written all over them.

It is very difficult to photograph them when you know they disapprove for religious reasons. I make a few attempts but generally shy away from it. I worry that I may become marked as a troublemaker and they will refuse to sell me produce. If you think about it, if they did allow photography, every photographer this side of the Mississippi would be swarming over them day after day. Therefore, it is probably best that they take a stand on the issue. It is about the commandment of not creating any graven image and about vanity. Sad, a more wonderfully photogenic subject matter does not exist in my opinion. Lifestyle and diet has given most of them a healthy glow that is difficult to explain. The traditional clothing of blue and white with the straw hats or black hats and the bonnets is just perfect subject matter. The horse drawn buggies, and farm carts along with plowing implements is just perfect stuff for the photographer.

August 16, 2008

I returned to Amish country this weekend and the weather was again perfect. Cotton ball clouds adorned the bright blue sky. I picked up a bunch of produce and stopped to have a late lunch at the “Dumplin Hause” in Volant. This unpretentious eatery has six small tables inside and one accomplished woman home cooks everything using local farm goods. Make sure to order the chicken salad sandwich with the tomato dumpling soup. Also, ask if they have any cinnamon buns and get one to take home.

If you are interested in experiencing Pennsylvania Dutch country here is the perfect farmland route to take. From the Pittsburgh area, take route 19 north going on about 40 miles until you find Black Road. Turn left on Black Road going to Volant and get onto 208 west. Stay on 208 west. From Volant all the way to the Ohio boarder are countless back roads off 208 that will take you deep into Amish country. On these roads, the Dutch sell from their homes fresh produce and homemade items. My favorite family lives on Poverty Lane. It is well worth the trip. They disapprove of photography but a discreet sneak or two won’t hurt them.

Alaska Summer 2008 Adventure

Alaskan Adventure 2008

On this first Alaskan adventure, I was joined by my cousins from southern California and we visited our cousin and family whom live in Eagle River north of Anchorage. Curt, Roxanne, and Emily were the best and most gracious hosts anyone could ever wish to have.

During our weeklong odyssey, over 1800 miles were traveled by rental car and over 1200 digital image captures were made. We covered as much territory as humanly possible while time we had. All aspects of the trip are covered including photography locations and wildflower conditions and weather. A few good tips are also included to anyone thinking about a visit.

This trip log will most probably be the longest I have ever written; therefore, interested readers should print out a copy. Readers might find some useful information among the passages. Only a few images will be on the trip log the others will be in the gallery. In the gallery the image will first appear in low quality then in better quality, they are small to save time in uploading them.

http://picasaweb.google.com/ricklionheart222

Please leave a comment after you have finished reading.

Friday, July 11th 2008

The daylong flight into Anchorage was by Northwest Airlines and Alaskan Airlines from Seattle Washington. Alaskan airlines were notably better than Northwest airlines in hospitality and service. The Seattle airport has a rather complex maze to navigate going from Northwest gates to the Alaskan gates. You need to travel by two different transport trains to reach the Alaskan airline gates.

Across this rich nation, farmlands stretch as far as the eye can see, even at 35,000 feet.

Curt met us at the airport and escorted us back to his home. Curt and Roxanne’s home is nestled among majestic mountains in the midst of Chugach State Park along Eagle River Road. Their home is arranged with a great assortment of elegant art. Curt is an accomplished outdoorsman and displays an impressive collection of hunting trophies that include a brown bear skin; that is luxurious to the touch. An enormous shoulder mount of an arctic Muskoxen that he received an award for, a black bear skin, several mountain goats, and other trophies.

Roxanne’s taste in art and her outstanding fabric art is on display all around the house. We found that Emily is a wonderful cook.
Later in the evening, Roxanne and I went to Chugach State Park and found a moose feeding in a roadside marsh then it was back to the airport to pick up Monty and Larry my wonderful cousins from southern California. It has been many a moon since last I spent quality time with them.
Curt and Roxanne’s miniature dachshund was a welcome high-energy bundle of fun and took a liking to me, as it should be with all those that I encounter.

Saturday July 12th 2008

Curt joined us for a day of good old fun. We enjoyed an early morning hike in the state park. We spotted a Bald Eagle perched on a treetop. The mountains along the hike are grand. Eagle River flows through the valley and bright fireweed grows along its banks.

The Bear Paw festival in Eagle River was fun with street performer’s entertaining the crowds and the Slippery Salmon Olympics was in full swing. Contestants need to carry a wet salmon in one hand while in the other hand a serving tray with various items to the finish line. It looked like a lot of fun.

We took a ride into Anchorage to visit Hood Lake and the Aviation Museum. Hood Lake has the greatest concentration of small floatplanes in the country.

The museum is a work in progress and has a nice number of interesting aviation exhibits inside and out.

We then proceeded to pick up the rental car at ABC RV and car rental near the airport. The car they had set aside for us was not the best on the lot to say the least. Monty complained and the owner’s wife instructed the service person to give us a better car. We were offered a newer but smaller car that worked out fine for the whole trip.

After the car pickup, Curt took us to a famous Anchorage Saloon known as Chilkoot Charlie’s. This rough around the edges saloon is a combination of many different themed bars all under one roof. Its eclectic atmosphere is a maze of fun. We all had a nice beer and caught up on lost time.

Curt and Roxanne along with Emily treated us all to a perfect Alaskan king crab dinner. The sesame cabbage salad was superb and the King Crab legs were huge. Curt then treated us to some sophisticated liquors.

Sunday July 13th 2008

Today we hit the road very early in the morning and went north to explore the Glenn Highway. The weather was not favorable during most of the trip but it never is too bad for very long. The weather can change from one moment to the next but did remain generally overcast much of the week. The temperatures remained comfortably cool each day between 50°F and 65°F.
We stopped at Thunder Bird waterfalls and hiked the two-mile trail. The falls gushed with torrents of mountain snowmelt and the air was invigorating. It’s important to bring along deet bug repellent because of the innumerable small ponds and standing pools that help the misquotes breed. Anyone that reports little or no mosquito troubles obviously did not get too far away from the car during their trip.

Palmer is a relatively small town and from there we traveled to the Muskoxen farm. We took the tour and photographed these prehistoric survivors of the arctic. The combed fur of these animals, called Qiviut, is lavish and resultant fiber is costly and well sought after.

The Glenn Highway offered a plethora of photographic opportunities and slowed our progress considerably as we traveled down the famous road. Two frequently repeated words that we used, as we drove down the road, were “Awesome and WOW”.

The sun came out around two in the afternoon and we arrived at our destination, the Matanuska Glacier. This flowing river of ice is spectacular to view from a distance. It actually looks like a silver blue river flowing down the valley. We noticed the Long Rifle Lodge near mile marker 100 and it looks like a respectable place to stay. Another lodging option nearby is Sheep Mountain Lodge that also has a nice restaurant.
On our return trip to Anchorage we decided to stop at Independence mine and Hatcher pass. The first 10 miles back is not impressive if that is possible in Alaska. However, after the first 10 miles a mountainous region begins to appear lush with emerald green forest. Snow melt waters surge down a brook and across huge boulders all along the roadway leading to the mine. It is very much like a storybook fantasyland. A mysterious haunting atmosphere around the elderly mine was enhanced by low rolling clouds and fog. This unbelievably scenic route is highly recommended with pristine alpine brooks and verdant mountains.

Our first day of exploration was outstanding and regardless of imperfect weather was very enjoyable.

Monday, July 14th 2008

Early in the morning, we left the Eagle River area and started south into the Kenai Peninsula region. The landscape of Kenai Peninsula brazenly assaults new arrivals with a merciless and crippling array of breathtaking beauty. Majestic snow capped mountains tower above valleys on all sides, turquoise lakes and flowing streams adorn the low lands as wild flowers, and evergreens proudly boast their splendor. This ostentatious display made it difficult to travel to the destination we set out for in a timely manner. Although countless turnouts are provided along the way, they are not enough for the photographer. Many times we had to pull off the roadside to photograph outstanding views. It is just too big for the camera and some scenic wonders had to be passed by simply because the camera was powerless to capture it.
Along the Seward Highway are several pullouts that feature trailheads, waterfalls, picnic areas, and scenic overlooks of the Turnagain Arm.
We would have liked to travel up Girdwood road but time would not allow it. We did stop at the Portage Glacier area. The road back to Portage Glacier is stunning. Waterfalls and blue ice around the mountains abound. We arrived just in the nick of time to catch the boat going out. As soon as we got on board the ship left for the tour; this was a lucky time saver. There is just too much fresh air and the cold wind from the lake filled our lungs with life. The boat ride cost $30 and is well worth the price. The flashcard memory is being filled up too fast. One tip to photographers thinking about a visit is to bring double the flashcard memory that you think needed.

After our pleasurable time at Portage Glacier, we decided to go to Whittier by way of a one-lane mountain tunnel. The toll is $12 and each car needs to wait in line for the next group that takes turns going to and from Whittier. On the other side, Whittier is a working seaport that receives cruise ships and transports people and cars to Valdez. It is a run down community and in my opinion is too time consuming to visit, it is not recommended.

When we finally arrived in Seward, our dinner was enjoyed at Chinooks Waterfront. The lobster bisc was appetizing while the grilled stuffed halibut had crab cream cheese filling that set it apart from the common. Monty treated us to a toast of Crown Royal and we explored the Seward area. Fishermen brought their catch of halibut and other fish to nearby docks for processing. We noticed when driving down the road, south of town, along the bay, that sea otters were playing near shore.
We found Salmon Creek Cabins off Nash Road a little north of Seward. It was back along some rather rustic run down properties but once settled in, was not too bad of a cabin. The owner was not at home when we first arrived but the door was open and the welcome sign was out. Later I talked with some anglers staying in one of the other cabins and asked them about wildlife locations. It is always a good idea to ask locals where the best locations are. They gladly told me that just a few miles down Seward Highway off Bear Lake road is a small spot where a Grizzly bear and her cub have been frequenting. Well, once we found the place local children road their bikes around and several cars parked near the site. We stopped by the location several times but did not have a chance to see her. We walked around the salmon creek that she liked and it was somewhat spooky knowing that at any moment she might appear. I noticed that seagulls and a few Bald Eagles also frequent the location to scavenge scraps left behind. When the kids ride their bikes around a nearby blind curve on the road they make all kinds of noise as is common practice in bear country. A surprised grizzly with a cub is nothing to fool with. It’s much better to let them know you are coming beforehand. Many salmon congregated in the waters swimming up stream and we could see them jumping over nearby waterfalls.

The other wildlife location that a local told us of was just off our cabin on Nash road. A short distance down the road is a large marsh area that moose frequent to feed on the willows. Again, the wildlife eluded us at this site also. However, the marsh exhibits a perfect reflection of the mountain with wildflowers in the foreground. If time will allow traveling down back roads can be well worth the effort. Nonetheless, the best views are most often found when hiking on trails among mountains and streams; just be careful to make noise and do not hike alone.

Tuesday, July 25th 2008

This morning is our 6-hour tour of Kenai Fjords National Park and Resurrection Bay. Our boat is the Aialik Voyager by Kenai Fjords Tours.
I was beginning to feel a little sleep depravation at this point. It will not get dark until about 11pm and the light returns around 4am but it never gets fully dark only twilight. This can have an effect on sleep and the light lets a photographer keep on keeping on longer than the old body would like. I was going on adrenaline from this point forward.

Resurrection Bay is a magnificent area. Mountains are all about and interesting sea stacks along with small islands populate the bay. The inhabitants of these fascinating rocky crags are all manner of wildlife. Sea otters play, puffins fly, and stellar sea lions huddle together sunning themselves among the rocks. Yes, the sun did show through the clouds every so often during our tour. The boat captain was keen to tell us his strategy in finding as much wildlife for us to see as possible. He had a colorful personality and did his level best with the short time he had.
I found that it is important to keep my hands free and warm as it is about ten degrees cooler in the bay and the wind created by the boats movement added to the chill. Bring gloves and do not get coffee while on board. Have a good breakfast at Seward diner before the trip.
We found several dolphin like swimmers putting on a show and a mink whale breached the water line with a big splash. We also got to see a humpback whale breach the water line and make an even bigger splash much to everyone’s delight. A few Bald Eagles perched above on tree tops looked valiantly down upon our boat passing by.
The boat arrived at Aialik Glacier and it was bigger and more imposing than Portage Glacier was. After the boat stops and is hushed, one can listen to the glacier crack and thunder with a cavernous drum like moan. The thick snow packed ice moves and cracks with a haunting voice that echoes across the frost cold waters. It is almost like being able to hear a giant that is approaching but cannot see it. Then suddenly heavy ice and packed blue snow falls to the frigid waters below sending out an explosive boom and a tidal wave big enough to surf on. Seeing and hearing an enormous glacier calve is a thrilling experience. Our boat tour was very well done and is recommended.

After our boat trip, we began our return trip back to Cousin Curt’s. It was slow going on the way home because of all of the overwhelming scenery. We decided to stop at the Alaskan wildlife conservancy to make double darn sure we got some wildlife photographs. The wildlife at this point has been more elusive than what was expected. When we arrived in Anchorage, we stopped at Little Italy for dinner and the food was great. The Greek spaghetti with feta cheese and olive oil was particularly tasty. It’s a place that comes recommended.

Wednesday, July 16th 2008

Today we drive 270 miles north to Denali National Park. The first half of the journey was, relative to what we experienced the last few days, not as picturesque. However, the closer we approached the park the landscape opened up to a completely new understanding.

Talkeetna is an interesting stop along the way and worth the side trip from off Park Road. Talkeetna has several small shops and is a genuine frontier town. Along the only road going though town is the Roadhouse. This is a celebrated place to stop and have breakfast with its own bakery. We went inside to find an eclectic time-honored atmosphere that has a welcoming ambiance. Common large tables are set about in the dinning room where anybody can take a chair and sit with others; much like one might do at home. The food is promptly brought out once ordered and the hardy breakfast was quite good. If you choose anything that is not on the breakfast menu it is classified as “Not Breakfast” and selections are posted on a chalk board. The fresh baked goods are displayed in a case at the front counter and after sampling one of them, I must recommend them with my highest regards.

About 50 miles south of the park, the scenery becomes impressive. We stopped many times to make photographs and at the north and south lookouts of Mount McKinley. Much to our chagrin the legendary McKinley was shrouded in low clouds and could not be seen at all. Mount McKinley has a larger bulk and rise than Mount Everest. Even though the summit of Everest is about 9,000 feet higher as measured from sea level, its base sits on the Tibetan Plateau at about 17,000 feet, giving it a real vertical rise of a little more than 12,000 feet. The base of Mount McKinley is roughly a 2,000-foot plateau, giving it an actual rise of 18,000 feet.

We found the Perch Resort about 10 miles south of the park entrance. The cabins were rustic but slightly more refined than Salmon Creek Cabins. The establishment compensates for its rustic charm with a well refined dinning room. We enjoyed a hardy dinner of fresh broiled halibut over wild rice with dill sauce and grilled vegetables. The homemade blue cheese dressing was extra good and the warm bread added a touch of old country charm to the experience. Topping it off was the addition of a scrumptious homemade blueberry pie.

Thursday, July 17th 2008

It was a very early to rise day and crisp arctic air wished us a good morning. We had to make it to the Wilderness Access Center by 5am to board the first bus going into the park. When we arrived, all was in order and we set out into Denali. The bus is a basic school bus without any accommodations so it is important to bring food and drinks with you. We also had binoculars and our camera equipment. A tripod is of little use on the bus and stops are limited, unless one wishes to hike around. Since much of the photography is out of the window of the bus and hand held I increased my ISO setting to around 800 or even higher and used shutter priority at about 400-500/s. I also brought along a few Advil to take later in the day because the bus will shake rattle and roll most of the 85 mile trip and another 85 miles back. Only a single road traverses the park. Some folks brought along seat pads, which is not a bad idea if you have room for them. For a photographer it is important to find a window seat with a working window and that it is on the driver’s side of the bus. The driver’s side going into the park offers better views of the wild and untamed landscape.

Although the weather was not favorable, the park is so immense that it transcends weather conditions in its ability to awe visitors. The landscape is feral arctic tundra with low growing multicolored wildflowers all along the road and across the land. Mosaic hills and mountains rise above the tundra with remarkable form and shape. As the bus lurched into the park bouncing over rough road the driver spotted a moose feeding in a marsh just off to the side. Further along, the driver kept watch for other wildlife and found it. We saw artic hare, grizzly bear, caribou, red-tailed fox, eagles, and the Alaskan state bird the Willow Ptarmigan. About half of the wildlife was too distant to photograph. Several visitor centers and key overlooks are along the road and the driver stops to allow us to get out and stretch every hour or so. The bus was about half full on departure but was loaded on the return trip because it will pick up backpackers and others along the way.
By the time the adventure is concluded it was time for dinner that was again held at the Perch Resort dinning room. This time I enjoyed delicious sautéed Alaskan scallops with mashed potatoes and we shared a superb crab cake appetizer. Encouraged by my energetic cousins, I joined them in going back to the park after dinner to hike at Horseshoe Lake inside the park. A moose was feeding in the lake and we managed to get quite close to her and made several close up photographs of her.
All in all Denali was a fascinating adventure, however it is also quite a gamble in viewing wildlife and in its willingness to reveal the great one. Perhaps I will have another opportunity to see the celebrated mountain in the near future.

Another note to anyone planning a trip is that two accommodations are just outside the park entrance and looked nice. Denali River Cabins and a place simply called Grizzly Bear.

Friday, July 18th 2008

We decided it was time to sleep in for once during our trip and got up relatively late around 730am. We enjoyed our complementary breakfast and set out on a rainy morning. I felt a little let down because of sleep depravation, not getting to see Mount McKinley, and the continued dark overcast weather. Clouds can accent landscape photography nicely and have done so several occurrences during the trip but the continual overcast got me down. On the way south back to Anchorage we stopped at the Etluka Village to photograph the Russian Orthodox Church and cemetery. Each grave in the cemetery has built above it a colorful spirit house. Some of them are fairly ornate. We made good time back to Eagle River and stopped to have lunch at Carl’s Jr. a burger joint.

Later in the evening the whole family got together for dinner at a place in Eagle River called the Haute Grill. It was an outstanding eatery with sophisticated selections and hardy portions. All of the chosen entries looked mouth-watering. I had the Seafood Gumbo that was filled with shrimp, mussels, scallops, and clams.

Saturday July 19th 2008

At the last minute we all decided to make the 270 mile road trip to Homer and return in one day. It was doable and a long hard trip but we would discover well worth the added effort. Early in the morning we hit the road and traveled back down into the spectacular Kenai Peninsula. At the junction of where the Seward and Sterling Highway meet we took the Sterling Highway. The scenic mountain landscape is jaw dropping along the route; mountains after endless mountain embellish our course.
Near Cooper Landing we stopped at the Sunrise Café for a hardy Breakfast. A few local anglers talked of the fishing conditions and what was going on around the village. The Sterling Highway is a little different than Seward Highway in that more facilities and accommodations are along the road way. Many anglers are fishing for Salmon in the Russian River along the route. The river is a beautiful torques blue.

It was a crisp 45°F morning. There is simply too much beauty to cover in a single trip, the side roads need to be explored; we should be hiking on the trails, not enough time to cover the extensive region.

When we reach the southward stretch of the road going to Homer a sudden white snowcapped chain of mountains appears across Cook Inlet. They are distant enough to make them difficult to photograph but not so much that they are not appreciated by the human eye. All along the Cook Inlet going to Homer the wild lupine grows in abundance and they are at peak blossom. Fields and endless fields of lavender blooms are everyplace and along the roadway. The copious fireweed in this location had yet to start its bloom but was only a few days away from doing so. From what I have noticed it seems that when the lupine begins to fad the fireweed begins to bloom and that each location is different in when that happens by a week or two.

Just outside Homer on top of the hill where the welcome sign is located is a large pullout and scenic overlook. In this location is a perfect spot to photograph Bald Eagles in flight. At the far north corner of the overlook is a deep gully where the eagles like to ride the thermals. We saw many eagles, some two at a time riding the thermals then landing in nearby trees.

Along the Homer spit are old shipyards with rustic ramshackle fishing boats and interesting properties of local folks. Further down near the end is a menagerie of shops, fishing charters, restaurants, and other tourist attractions. The one place that stands out among the others is the Salty Daug Saloon. This light house style building has an interior with walls covered in one dollar bills. Each dollar bill has a story to tell, could they speak. It is a wild and landmark location on the Homer spit.
We had our lunch at an unpretentious restaurant across from the Salty Daug, explored the beach area as cold inlet wind chilled our bones, and slowly made our way back to the car. We could not linger too long because my cousins had to catch their flight back home.

On our return trip we stopped at several locations passed by on the way down. Among them was the Russian Orthodox Church at Ninilchik. This church and the high perch it sits on are exceptionally photogenic. It has a green Russian bochka-roof and white siding in the traditional style. The yard around it is populated with many orthodox tomb sights and crosses. Wildflowers grow among the tombs and along the white picket fence that surrounds the church. Across the inlet a volcano can be seen with steam at its crown. It is a photographers dream.
We stopped at Saint Elias Brewery near Soldotna and had the sampler of beers that they brew. We did not order any food but I could not help notice that what food they brought out looked very good.

There is a large marsh area at the junction of Sterling and Seward highways. A beautiful snowcapped mountain reflects into it and the grass and willows in the marsh make for a picture postcard image that shouts out ALASKA! Along the road home a huge rainbow appereard in the sky. The biggest and best rainbow that I ever saw. It was a sign of hope for the next visit to this great land.

When we reached Anchorage and before going to the airport we had a late dinner at Gwennie’s Old Alaskan Restaurant on Spenard Road. This is a cool place to have a bite to eat and portions are hardy. Inside is a wishing well and a collection of Alaskan frontier items.
All three of us were very sad to see each other go but such is life.

Sunday, July 20th 2008

The last day was relaxed a time to reflect on all that happened. On the way out to Anchorage off Eagle River Road, in the distance, we could see the great one. Its white snow covered beatuy greeting us and wishing us well until next time. Later in the day I returned the rental car and Curt, Roxane, me, and mother went to an Anchorage sushi buffet. Curt introduced me to sushi and I found it to be very good.
The flight home was uneventful but long and hard.

Some people give their hearts to a sport or a job or even a material thing to the exclusion of all else. But there are those that are captivated by a vast unspoiled land, a land of snow capped mountains and silver ice fields, a place where endless evergreens stretch across the valleys and wildlife runs free over vast tundra. A realm called Alaska. If you are smart, you will visit this land at least one time during this very short life. I intend to return very soon.

GOD BLESS AMERICA