My Trip to Italy 2022

 

After 2 long years forgoing an annual trip, I decided to visit my niece and her family in Italy. They recently moved to Milan. What better time to embark on my first journey to Europe. There are only a few places within America remaining on my bucket list. From the coast of Maine to the Grand Canyon, and mighty El Capitan, I have been blessed visiting over 27 National Parks. It was now time to visit Italy and venture to the eternal city, Rome.

The 767 jetliner that shepherded me to Zurich was luxurious. A full 3^rd of the front section is devoted to first class. In Zurich customs was easier than I had imagined. I made sure to purchase a day pass at the airport. It covers all transportation for 24 hours with added discounts. Since local time is 6 hours ahead, it was morning of the next day. Jetlag did not seem to trouble me very much. I took the train from the airport to city center. The Montana Hotel was a short walk up the street. After placing my luggage in their storage room, I was free to explore the city. At riverside is a passenger boat that took me to Old Town. Old Town is a gingerbread house marvel and the melody of Dutch is heard around every corner. I enjoyed a traditional Wiener Schnitzel lunch at Weissen Kreuz near the Gross Münster Cathedral. Zurich is supposed to be the second most expensive city in the world but I decided to bite the bullet and go for it anyway.  

My stay in Zurich was short. Early the next morning I began a train ride south into the Alps. The Bernina Express scenic train is a UNESCO world heritage experience. We were blessed with great weather. The Swiss Alps are a grand sight to behold. The mountains and valleys reminded me of Christmas tree toy train displays. Bucolic dairy farms nestled in the valleys flanked on each side by imposing snowcapped mountains around every turn. Waterfalls cascade down mountain sides into village rivers below. The train takes a complicated path through the Alps. It travels through many tunnels, across viaducts and bridges. The highlight of the journey was when it reached the top of a mountain pass where snow and ice blankets rocky crags like frosting on a cake. I wanted to get out and hike around but the train does not stop long. After the mountain pass was traversed, the train began its decent into Italy. Tirano Italy is where the amazing journey ended. A welcoming culture change can be noticed. Italy has its own special charms. I boarded the train going to Milan and much of this part of the trip was picturesque as well. Grape vineyards lace the countryside with idyllic villas at each vineyards center. As the train made its usual stops a group of teens got on board and performed their musical talents for us. This is the type of fun that makes heartwarming memories. Since Italy’s architecture spans more than 3500 years it is difficult to point to a single style that dominates. However, I would say the Renaissance and Gothic periods are most prevalent. Many of the streets are solid granite cobblestone.

I arrived in Milan and was astonished by the colossal train station. It is a living museum of architectural wonder. Crowds of people moved about while others gazed up at the big screens overhead that display the schedules. With a little study beforehand, it is not difficult to find your train at the right time going to the right place. I had a euro-pass that covered all train travel for four days. Outside the station is an impressive square where people gather and skateboarding enthusiast show off their skills. Amanda and Nate picked me up and took me to their place. My sister Connie was there to greet me as were Fiona and Leighton my two second nieces. Their flat in the center of Milan is well appointed and comfortable. Nate and Amanda treated us to a perfect, local favorite Da Zero Pizza. Enjoying dinner here is a much more sophisticated event than our fast-food culture back home. The local happiness factor reflects this as well.

 

The area of Milan that we were visiting was built to last and it has for generations. The convoluted cobblestone streets interlace into a labyrinth in all directions. As a photographer, I appreciated the repeating patterns of pastel buildings fading into the distance like a kaleidoscope. Milano is one of the liveliest cities I ever visited. Markets and eateries are everywhere. People are coming and going all the time. Many use scooters or small motorcycles. Even more walk from one place to the another.

 

On Saturday, Nate, Leighton, and I enjoyed breakfast and coffee at LePolveri a close by bakery. There was a long line of people waiting their turn for the fresh baked Panzerotti. The culinary options are without limit. My selection was a Turkish dish of poached eggs swimming in yogurt. I had the great idea to break off little pieces of fresh baked bread into this delightful breakfast soup. Later, we all visited the local farmer’s market. I was dumbstruck as to its abundance and quality. If this is your sourcing for nutritional needs you should be healthy as an Ox. I wanted to go bonkers buying all sorts of gastronomic delights then return to the flat and prepare a gourmet lunch for everyone. Instead, Connie and I had other plans. We took the metro to visit the celebrated Cathedral towering at the center of Milano.

 

The Duomo di Milano is to Christianity what Mecca is to Islam. It is the third largest Cathedral on earth. The lavish works of Christian art and iconography held within its parapets are mind blowing. I never knew this much polished marble existed in the world. The stained-glass windows towering above are man’s glorification of God. I told Connie the experience made me think of the time when the angels told Abraham that his barren wife would bare him a son in her old age. Sarah laughs. The angel asked her, why did you laugh? She denied it. The angel retorted, but you did laugh. Then Sarah asked doubtful questions. The angels answered, is there anything too difficult for God? That was my thought standing under the ramparts of the Duomo. Connie and I then decided to climb onto the roof. The architectural structure is so elaborate I just had to pause for a moment and make a feeble attempt to take it all in. This holy place made me feel very small.

 

In the main sanctuary is a solid marble statue of Bartholomae. He was tortured after evangelizing the Armenian King to Christianity. The unthinkable torture included having his flesh filleted and then he was be-headed. This work of art was created by Marco d'Agrate. My question is why are nearly all the great artist Italians? I think it is because Ancient Rome encouraged artfulness. You can see it everywhere. For every really great work of art there are endless lesser-known works created by very skilled and gifted hands.

 

Connie and I then proceeded to visit a delightful park where the impressive Sforzesco Castle resides. It is an intimidating Medieval-Renaissance fortress with historical museums and art by da Vinci and Michelangelo. It is all too much to process in such a short time. All of the art and culture, and the depth of human history. One would think as we evolve our ability to create such structures and art would be less challenging. It is the opposite for some reason. The cost would be prohibitive today and the quality of craftsmanship would be nearly impossible to match. The surrounding park was alive with families having fun and enjoying the faultless weather.

 

Afterward, Connie and I began a high endurance power walk through the labyrinth of surrounding cobblestone streets. Our convoluted trek took us to places we had no idea existed moments before. In other words, we were lost. My cell phone was restricted using data roaming. Connie’s cell died. Google maps took us to an unwanted location. Connie had Amanda's cell but did not have the password. Finally, Nate made contact and we were rescued. Alternatively, taxicabs are all over the place but the trick is hailing them for a lift. There are designated taxi pickup sights indicated with an orange Taxi sign. Many important lessons are learned by this thrilling experience. Always make sure the cell is fully charged, keep specific information, get a top-shelf plan from your provider before going overseas, always have a fallback position in case things go wrong. Later that evening we all gathered at L'Uccellina for an idyllic fine dining experience in the heart of Italy. I cannot thank Nate and Amanda enough for their gracious hospitality and love.

 

Sunday was an overcast, cool day with slight drizzle. Amanda, the girls, Connie, and I took the crowded Metro to Villa Necchi Campiglio, a very interesting villa turned into an interior design and period architectural museum. This outstanding home had everything anyone could ever desire. Walk-in closets that were actually walk-in rooms. Multiple guest rooms and servant’s quarters. Progressive Era art and family photographs are displayed throughout. A very memorable experience. We then went on to enjoy the best Sushi ever. This is not the All you Can Eat Buffet Sushi we are used to back home – that’s for sure. Last but by no means least, we then went on to the Triennale di Milano modern art museum. This was a fascinating and fun place to spend the afternoon. Amanda and Nat prepared a splendid dinner.

 

Monday morning, Connie and I took the train to Lake Como. The forecast was unfavorable but was proven wrong later in the day. Upon arrival we made our way down to the waterfront. Mist danced along the towering mountains reaching high above the mirrored waters. Attractive villas in pastel hues of rust, tan, and yellow ocher embellish the hills along the shoreline. We bought our tickets for the boat ride. It was a perfect day for a water adventure. The cool wind in your face as the boat glides across the water is refreshing. There is the option to get out of the boat and explore at each stop but we decided to stay on board. Overcast skies are ideal for photography. The subtle light filtering through the clouds is much preferred. I can only say thank you.

 

After returning to dockside, we decided to enjoy lunch at PiazzaRomaComo. This was a very good choice. The food was a little fancy for this hillbilly. After lunch we had some time to walk around town before the return train was to depart. Connie checks every Gelato place she comes near in her never-ending quest to find the perfect Gelato. Meanwhile, I toured Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta - Duomo di Como this is an imposing cathedral with tapestries, art, and frescoes in an extravagant sanctuary. It is difficult to process all of the countless cathedrals and churches. The polished marble seems endless. The floor is marble, the iconography is marble, the walls are marble. The craftsmanship is mind boggling.

We returned to Milano on the train and navigated the Metro back to Amanda's place. We managed to avoid getting lost this time.

 

On Tuesday morning, we sent the kids off to school on a Mercedes Benz bus. I knew this was going to be the last time I would see them in quite some time, if ever again. Fiona and Leighton have a bright future before them. You can tell just by looking at them that great things await them both. Afterward, Amanda, Connie, and I took the bullet train to Rome. We made arrangements for tours along the way. There are many tunnels that obscure the view going to Rome. However, when we had the chance to view the pastoral landscape of Tuscany it made me want to get off the train and hike around for a while. Tall Mediterranean cypress lace the rolling meadows, evoking Van Gogh impressionism. It was as if we were looking out the window at a large oil painting. Next time I visit, a Tuscany Road trip needs added to the bucket list.

 

Arrival in the eternal city was not glamour's. The train station is all business. I was expecting Julius Caesar to greet me as I disembarked. Well, just because Ben-Hur’s chariot was not there to whisk me to the hotel it was still a great feeling. My hotel was near the station. In fact, it was directly across from it. It was not a 5-star lodging but who cares we are in Rome. Three nights in Rome for $325 is a great deal. There is no need to locker the luggage since the hotel had a luggage storage room.

 

I took the hop on hop off Big Bus Roma to the Colosseum to meet Connie there. The Colosseum is a marvel of man’s ingenuity. I learned that wholesale execution of Christians is unproven. That said, other barbarous events did take place here on a routine basis. Roman law forbad wagering but the people did it anyway. Wild animals would be set on people who were forced to defend themselves with the crudest weapons. In most cases those so ill fortuned to suffer such things were found guilty of some sort of crime. Sometimes I think if Roman justice was brought back, we would have less crime today. You know, pay per view, wagering, give some criminals a chance to win their freedom through mortal combat. The more heinous the crime the more challenging the combat.

 

Adjacent to the Colosseum is Palatine Hill and surrounding ruins. It was all too much to cover in a day. Connie waited below as I took a hike up the hill to at least get a feel for the place. At the top you can see all the ruins below. This location is considered the birthplace of Rome. This would be a perfect place to come for sunrise or sunset photography. Amanda joined us later for a dinner. After dinner we walked to the renowned Trevi Fountain as evening fell. I looked back at Amanda as I approached the fountain from around a corner. It is like magic seeing it for the first time. I had to run my hands through the cool water. Lots of people gathered around but it did not seem to be that crowded. Connie took a picture as I tossed a Swiss frank over my shoulder into the glittering water. As we took some time to relax the crowd suddenly cheered and clapped with happiness. A marriage proposal was made at the fountains edge. She said yes, how could she not?

The tour bus was not enough to cover all transportation needs. Taking a cab in Rome is routine. It cost about 7 € to taxi back to my lodging.

 

 

The next day I spent in Vatican City. Amanda and Connie already experienced this life changing place. So, they did their thing and I did the Vatican. At the last minute we arranged skip the line access for 35 €. I took a taxi to the meeting location and they guided our group to a side entrance of the Vatican Museum. At this location we were all given tickets and allowed entrance right away. The museum is vast. It is too much to digest in such a short time. A guided tour would take even more time. There are endless hallways of priceless artworks, tapestries, Christian iconography and so much more. I was in heaven. The place was alive with people but it was not overly crowded. Although I do not agree with the doctrine of Catholicism, I can still appreciate the art collection as it is. As everyone wondered about, the general flow leads to the Sistine Chapel. Entering the chapel is a humbling experience. Although other artist contributed to the chapel’s frescos, Michelangelo painted the chapel's ceiling, a project which changed the course of Western art and is regarded as one of the major artistic accomplishments of human civilization. A church official routinely calls for quite and reminds that photography is forbidden.

 

After spending many hours in the museum, I exited into Saint Peters Square. It was breathtaking being surrounded by the seat of Christianity. I was not sure what line to join but decided to join the shortest line. That decision proved to be correct. In very short order the whole line moved together and we all entered Saint Peters Basilica. The vast sanctuary is beyond words to describe. I was surprised by some of the polished marble iconography. One in particular was a larger-than-life human skeleton cloaked in a shroud holding aloft a menacing hourglass. I later learned this is a monument to Alexander the seventh, created by the prominent artist Bernini. I was overwhelmed by the immensity of the space. After spending a good deal of time in the sanctuary, I ventured down into the catacombs below. There are the crypts of departed Popes. The greatest of them all Saint Peter on which rock the church was built upon. I lost all sense of time by now and realized that the lunch reservations that were made had passed several hours beforehand. I was supposed to meet Connie and Amanda for lunch but totally missed it. My cell phone was a pain the whole trip and this caused some hard feelings. Later on, I expected to meet them at the Monument of the Fatherland. This is an imposing memorial to all Italian heroes. This meeting was also missed. I then returned to my lodging for the night.

 

Our last day in Rome was enchanting. As I walked down the street, I expected Don Corleone to make me an offer that I could not refuse. Connie and I went to visit the Pantheon. The Pantheon is the quintessential example of Roman architecture. The rotunda, which is under a coffered concrete dome, with an oculus open to the sky is unreal. Almost two thousand years after it was built, the Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome. A slight drizzle of rain was falling through the oculus onto the marble floor below. By this time, I was saturated by the magnitude of Catholicism. The Pantheon was very crowded. We also made up for lost time the previous day and stopped by Roscioli, the place where lunch was missed. They have a sister café just up the street from their primary location. I had a slice of pizza and told Connie that I should be punished for this. I later discovered that I would be. It was the best pizza that I ever consumed. I went back into the café and told them that they were the best. I have done a pizza tour in New York City and there is our home town Pizzeria that had pretty good pizza, but this was the best. They also specialize in many other treats. It is all too much to experience in one short visit. The only way to fully immerse oneself into Rome is to spend at least a full week walking its streets and visiting its endless allures. Down the street we found a leather shop. I decided to purchase a custom fitted belt made of genuine Italian leather for my souvenir. The leather master cut the belt to size and fitted me right inside the shop.

 

After a great day enjoying the grandeur of Rome it came time to say goodbye. Connie and Amanda wished me well as I took a taxi back to my lodging. It was emotional leaving them and leaving the eternal city. Early the next day I took the train to the Airport and felt unwell with a minor cough. I would later find out that I contracted COVID at some point during the trip. Thank God that he allowed me to enjoy the trip before being stricken. On the Airbus going to Toronto many people were coughing into the open air. I was worried if they noticed I was sick they would stop me from boarding. No problem, take a seat. Others were hacking away worse than I was.

 

The Toronto Airport is very confusing to navigate. It was a good thing I had a two-hour layover. It took nearly that much time to find my gate. Off we went back home to Pittsburgh.