Adirondack Adventure October 2012
• Saturday, September 29th
I got an early 5:30am start with the odometer reading 47848
79 North to NY 90E then NY 86E and then began the back road adventure from Salamanca. The autumn color in New York is at about 50%. Ellicottville is a small trendy hamlet among the hills. I stopped at DJ’s diner for a late 10am breakfast. The small community of Arcade offers a scenic train ride to Attica. I managed to arrive at Arcade just as the train was departing the station for its noon excursion. I decided to chase the steam engine through the countryside. I was rewarded with a perfect image capture along its route. Take route 98N from Arcade to Chaffee Road and setup the tripod at Curries depot. One can hear the engines advance because the conductor likes to herald his approach with the steam whistle. As I chased the train, I could see it chugging along in the valley surrounded by colorful hills. The black smoke and snow white steam designating its position. Along the way to Letchworth SP, I had to stop at a roadside stand and purchase a jug of genuine New York maple syrup.
Letchworth State Park is a worthy stop with an $8 entrance fee. The Glen Iris Inn has a nostalgic ambiance and resides near the upper falls. The lower falls requires a challenging 127-step hike up and back in order to observe its full grandeur. The upper falls, which is the favored one, is not as demanding. An overlook is provided for easy viewing of the iconic upper falls across from the stone house. It is too early for the autumn colors at this location; another 10 days and it will be perfect. The upper falls is reminiscent of the Yellowstone Falls. It is nestled at the end of a long gorge with high cliffs on both sides with a stream snaking away from it.
Dansville is a laid-back community with a small main street offering a variety of shops and restaurants. I enjoyed dinner at the Sunrise.
Logan’s Inn is a convenient lodging selection near a gas station and 24-hour convenience store. The price is $70/night.
All and all, the first day was all that I could have wished for. The weather is cool and pleasant; the autumn colors are about 50%, and striking bucolic farmlands embellished the countryside all along the way. I have noticed in dinning and gas that cost of living is between 6% and 8% higher in New York compared with Pennsylvania.
• Sunday, September 30th
Departed Dansville around 6:30 am going to Naples - Naples is a significant town with a big local employer that manufactures farm equipment. Some type of huge street fair was going on but it was too early to explore. At the end of main street Bob and Ruth’s diner looks like a good place to stop for breakfast but I past it up. Route 21 north offers outstanding views of the countryside. It seems that pie is king around these parts and everyone has signs up selling pie.
I enjoyed breakfast at Patty’s Place diner in Canandaigua. Patty makes homemade blackberry jam and bread. I noticed a steady flow of patrons coming and going and the decision was made.
I decided to visit Salmon Creek Falls. From the hamlet of Orwell, take route 22 east for 2.5 miles then left on Falls Road for 1.2 miles. Parking is found on the roadside. There is a short and easy trail to the overlook. The falls are photogenic and worth the side trip.
Along route-3 is the community of Pulaski where countless fisherman were angling for inland salmon.
Watertown is a mid-sized town. The colors are at about 30% in this area. I stopped for lunch at Crystals Tavern in the town square. The building is a relic of the past with a working payphone hanging on the wall.
As I approached the Adirondacks, the colors improved dramatically about 30 miles out and all along the remaining route. At Raquette Lake, a bald eagle took flight across the lake as I stood watching at lakeside.
Drizzling rain was my constant foe all day long but I fought to overcome its malice. The autumn colors are at peak among the mountains. Deep rich crimson, cherry, and ruby hues adorn the mountains accompanied by a full spectrum of pumpkin orange and sunflower yellows. Some examples are too intense for the eye to endure.
The Tupper Lake region is blemished with several abandoned and run down properties but they merely distract from the spectacle of natures show. The aptly named White Birch Café served a surprisingly good spaghetti and meatball dinner; being raised in a predominantly Italian neighborhood; that is saying something. The Park motel ($63/night) was a poor choice but you get what you pay for. Alternative locations nearby, based on external appearance, might have been better choices.
• Tupper Lake Motel
• Shaheens Motel
• Monday, October 1st
A steady rain fell all night long. The morning revealed gloomy skies all around. The glory of the mountains surrounding me is obscured by a shroud of heavy mist and low hanging clouds. A curse is upon the day as punishment for my evil deeds. It is hopeless and I bare the heavy burden of defeat upon my shoulders. The potential is vaguely perceived through the gloom of what could be incredible splendor. Its 10am and the gloom remains but I fight the good fight and continue to seek photographic opportunities.
Color stage is best described with estimated percentage values:
20% leaf drop
75% peak color
10% Green – not including evergreens
15% past peak
Traveling east from Tupper Lake is Corey’s road. This side road is worth exploring for creative photographic opportunities. The Blue Moon Café at 55 Main Street in Saranac served a delicious late breakfast. The cuisine is of gourmet quality. The eggs benedict on homemade muffins is superb.
I arrived at Lake Placid around noon to find a commercialized tourist town. The heavy mist worsens and there is no proof that any mountains exist at all. Along route 86 on the way is an interesting place called Tail of the Pup, it is worth a stop for lunch. In Lake Placid, the affluent place to stay is Golden Arrow Lodge.
Route 73 between Keene and Lake Placid is difficult to believe that the colors can be so vivid; it is almost unearthly. Perhaps God has mercifully cloaked the mountains in mystery because he knew that if there full glory was shown it would stun me more than I could bear. The high peaks region is best and most of the time spent should be here. Lodging is all about but I noticed a place called Cobble Inn on route 86 that looked good with a tremendous view. The ill weather has frustrated me.
I decided to call it a day and enjoyed dinner at Lisa-G’s pub at 6125 Sentinel Road. It is a uniquely creative culinary experience. The Moroccan burrito filled with chickpeas, roasted peppers, onion, and then drenched in a savory cucumber sauce, was tasty.
Cascade Inn is OK and its proximity to a key photography location is important. Adirondack Loj Road is a spectacular 5-mile drive that offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. It leads back to a parking area where the trailhead to Mount Jo is found. This road is located just east of Lake Placid off route 73.
My (what should be) award winning sunset image was captured along this road.
• Tuesday, October 2nd
With a touch of hope I rose early went outside and looked up into the night sky to see the moon and the stars. Glad and excited I made hast to take advantage of dawn light along Loj Road. The sun ascended slowly just behind a mountain and I captured it as it flashed rays of light across the lowlands. Fog, like a ghost, moved among the evergreens.
Continuing to the parking area the last 3 miles of the road is flanked by woodlands. An $8 fee is suggested and the trailhead of Mount Jo is unpretentiously hidden nearby. I might have given this undertaking a second thought had I known the level of challenge beforehand. At 7:30 am the hike began. Before the ascent is an observation area for Heart Lake. This alone is worth a visit as the lake is surrounded by mountains and brilliant colors. At first, the hike was not too difficult but with the increasingly heavy tripod on my shoulders and the angel of the trajectory becoming questionable, my faith began to slip. Nothing worth achieving is accomplished without effort and struggle. The pathway is rocky and muddy. At some points, the trail becomes lost in heavy boulders and undergrowth. This is the best stress test anyone might undergo and much to my surprise, my heart did not complain. That is not to say that my lungs were not complaining as they gasped for thin air near the summit. I was about to give up and turn back but the summit is so near we must continue. A passing hiker warned that malevolent clouds are beginning to march back into the mountains and that I had better hurry.
The last few feet leading to the summit were a crawling struggle. I heard the voices of a few others at the top and followed the sound. Once upon the rocky peak my efforts were rewarded more than I could have dreamed. Moses was not permitted to look upon the face of God but I am. Before me was a vision of mountain grandeur unmatched by anything that I have witnessed before. Kaleidoscopes of pigments emboss sweeping views in every direction. I did not view a single burning bush but endless burning bush. It is simply too much to explain. I stood silent as did the others and became reverential. The camera was put aside as a useless devise woefully inadequate. Nevertheless, after some time with cool winds caressing the summit I took up the instrument and made a best effort to capture images of what I saw but to no avail.
The decent was made reluctantly. It was almost as difficult as going up. I returned to the car at 10:30am. It took me a great deal of time to make the round trip hike being out of shape and 51 summers old. Therefore, it was a 3-hour tour and well worth it.
Sinister weather moved into the region once again. I followed the plan and began the day’s road trip to Wilmington. Wilmington has a great little deli supermarket that make a good sandwich. Whiteface mountain memorial roadway is a step climb. I paid the $10 fee and began but the ill weather worsened obscuring any views. The prospective for the fantastic was unrealized so I turned back and departed.
In spit of the weather, I stopped at High Falls Gorge. This tourist attraction features a powerful waterfall that passes through a narrow gorge of solid rock walls. Several viewing platforms are built into the side of the rock walls. A particularly nice photo opportunity is had just as one crosses over the first bridge to the left. The stream presents an (S) curve as it flows out of wooded mountains in the background. At this time the mountains were not visible.
The rain stopped around 3:30 in the afternoon. Just south of the village of Jay along route 9N is country route 52. I took this road up a long hill where it levels off among striking mountain panoramas. This is a great road to explore. It branches out in several directions; I investigated each.
Returning to Lake Placid along route 73, I had a difficult time finding the public use area for Cascade Lake. It is a very sneaky little road off the main road. Once down in the parking area the lake is like a mirror reflecting the mosaic mountains. Cascade Falls, from what I was told, does not always run; only when it rains. They should do a car commercial on route 73 between Jay and Keene. Western landscapes have nothing on this stretch of road.
I stopped in Lake Placid and indulged myself with a Tex Mex burrito for dinner. The Down Town Diner was closed and only open for breakfast and lunch.
• Wednesday, October 3rd
I awoke to another good morning and decided to hurry so that the sunrise could be captured along Adirondack Loj road. As I arrived, Mark Bowie of the Adirondack Photography Institute introduced himself. He was in the field instructing a student. We discussed some of the finer points in photography. Again, the mist blanketed the lowlands and vapors created interesting designs across the high peaks. I think that a few of the image captures created here should be top contenders.
Unfavorable weather moved in once again. I stopped at ADK Café in Keene. The Café is operated by a family team. Mother brought hot bread from the oven out into the dinning area and placed it onto a ledge to cool. Soon afterward, she returned with a sheet of yet warm chocolate chip cookies. Well, I just had to purchase a few items.
Traveling down route 73 from Keene to Hudson is Hull Road where a waterfall can be found. I worked in the rain with the umbrella and traversed some of the mountain streams. Much to my chagrin by the end of the day I not only looked like I was rode hard and put away wet – I was. Fate demands that I curl up into a fetal position and wait for death but I deny it the satisfaction.
At noon, the rain subsided and at that time, I was traveling along Blue Ridge road to Elk Lake Lodge. This location is a secret gem among the high peaks and offers dazzling views of several mountains reflecting in pristine waters. The lodge is an exclusive place to stay while visiting and comes highly recommended even if for a single nights stay. By doing so, the photographer will be in the perfect location to capture both sunrise and sunset images. Warning signs are posted all along the roadway in an effort to keep unwanted people out and to secure the solitude and peacefulness. If every tourist passing through knew about the place, it would be overrun. It is kept concealed by design. ($150/night- includes meals)
Photographic opportunities abound between the village of Newcomb and Long Lake; the potential is out of this world, but heavy mist torments me.
Long Lake has many picturesque views. A Norman Rockwell-isc church reflects in the lake. The Adirondack Hotel stands proudly in the center of town at lakeside. It is a nostalgic structure. Several haunting examples of taxidermy decorate the interior; a large standing black bear, moose head, dear, coyote, and the like. I spent too much on dinner at there restaurant but the seafood-alfrado really hit the spot after a long hard day in the rain.
Sandy Point motel is the best place I have lodge the whole trip. It was right along the lake with an open screen option giving me the feeling I was sleeping out doors. I will most definitely lodge here again next visit.
• Thursday, October 4th
After a good nights sleep I spent the morning exploring the region around Long Lake. It is a great place to find photographic opportunities. Later on, my travel plan was altered slightly to adventure down to Indian Lake. The drive down was uneventful except for e few reflecting ponds along the roadside. Upon arrival around noon, my diversion was rewarded with a great lunch. Indian Lake Restaurant is operated by a trained chief and the lunch was outstanding. The potato leek soup was delectable.
Near the hamlet of Inlet I decided to explore a dirt road leading to the great unknown. It was a gamble and after some time of bouncing around I decided to turn back.
Old Forge is a big place that comes complete with a water fun park. Plenty of motels, and other attractions. The south end of town has a few good looking motels
1. Adirondack Lodge
2. Country Club Motel that is near gas and convenience store
I continued to Remsen NY to lodge over at the Swing Inn Motel. The owner must have spilled a gallon of Febreez in the room. A dead decomposing body could have been under the bed and I would not have known it. It would have been better to lodge over in Old Forge.
• Friday, October 5th
A 6:30am departure took me down the road to a little place called Charlie’s Diner on route 5 west. Now that I have left the mountains, the sky is clear and the sun is shining.
Along route 13 is a little state park called Chittenango Falls. It features a nice waterfall. By the time, I arrived in Ithaca it was time for lunch and it was decided to try Indian. After lunch, the way to Watkins Glen was navigated. Watkins Glen is disappointing because the designated trail is high above the water features. This is a problem because it is not preferred to photograph such things from above. The shuttle does not operate during the week. Watkins Glen Lodging options might be, based on outer appearance alone:
1. Glen Motor Inn – good views of Seneca Lake
2. Villager Motel
I decided to take a self-guided tour of Seneca Lake wine country. The vast vineyards are reminiscent of the Napa Valley. Some of the winery estates are just as impressive as any in the Napa Valley. Endless rows of grape vines adorn the hillsides near the lake.
As I made my way to Dansville, several back roads were taken between Watkins Glen and Dansville. The region is home to Amish and Mennonite communities. The bucolic farmlands are picturesque but difficult to capture since the roadside is difficult to pull over. Very little room is allowed to get off the roads. The Amish are less conservative than PA Amish. Many use bicycles and power mowers as well as tractors. I arrived at Danville Logan Inn around 6pm the odometer reads 49296.
•
Saturday, October 7th
The weather has finally broken into sunshine and blue skies now that I am heading home. I stopped at Jamestown for a breakfast break at a place called Lisciandro’s 207 North Main Street. The warm character of the small place made me feel like I was already home.
I decided to throw in the proverbial towel going home and did what the GPS told me to do. One thing that was noticed is that the colors seemed to have advanced significantly in a single week’s time.
Conclusion:
All in all any trip is a gamble when it comes to weather and other uncontrollable events. I would end up never going anywhere if weather reports made the decision and they are often in error. The photographer does not wish for clear skies but hopes for interesting clouds and subdued sunlight. Overcast skies would have been fine with me. However, the low hanging clouds covering the mountains with constant drizzle and bouts of rain makes practicing the art of photography exasperating.
I witnessed enough of the landscape to comprehend the possibility for outrageous splendor among the Adirondack Mountains. Based upon this visit I will most definitely return and hope that when I do the dice will come up in my favor.
After reviewing the images that I did manage to capture the trip was not by any stretch of the imagination a total loss. I managed to create a few whoppers in spite of fates demands. Any photographer worth his or her salt will do the same.